Ali
Stern Electronics, 1980
Baby Pac-Man
Bally, 1982
Big Game
Stern Electronics, 1980
Black Jack
Bally, 1978
Black Pyramid
Bally, 1984
BMX
Bally, 1982
Bobby Orr's Power Play
Bally, 1978
Catacomb
Stern Electronics, 1981You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Alan_L.
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Looking for a backglass locking bracket, the metal piece that goes across the top of the head and locks in the backglass. It's that same part on all early Bally solid state machines. I believe that it is Bally part #A-3868.
Thanks,
Alan
Some Pinside Marketplace ads for various Nitro Ground Shaker plastics and plastic promo pieces.
I've had to use some wire wrap wire to perform some repairs on a AS2518-35 board. What is recommended to hold down longer wires against the board? I've seen some repairs that used what looks like candle wax, or is there something better?
Thanks,
Alan
Quoted from FiatsRUs:Found it. It was a self-inflicted problem. I used an automotive points file to clean up the contacts on both flipper switches. There were enough filings on the left one to provide a very weak trace between the switch contacts, which would occasionally provide a path to ground and cause the left flipper to stay in the hold position. I cleaned out the filings and all is good.
Good tip to remember.
Go Huskers!
Here is the Pinside ad for my "Hot Hand", thanks for looking.
Alan
Quoted from Waderade812:The coils are the correct ones.
The two coils on mine are NB-19-2600's, I'm sure the same as yours.
Only two of the three coil lugs are wired: the center lug and the right lug, assuming the you view the coil with the lugs at the bottom and are facing you.
Is his how yours are wired? Solder joints good and tight?
Quoted from Mathazar:Agreed. I did a restoration on my '84 EBD but had to stop short on the apron and shooter gauge after months of looking around for a repro apron or decal set came up dry. Fortunately my set has only a few blemishes and is passable, but I'd love to make it look like new again if given the opportunity. If you come across someone who does apron decals for the '84, I'd be in, too!
Your apron looks good, is it from a Paragon? The '84 apron is black with red trim, but it says "Bally/Midway" instead of Bally Pinball Division.
Quoted from Thunfisch:Somebody has already replaced the potentiometer in the high voltage section. The fuse in that section is too big (I mean big in centimeters or inches, not in Ampere) and does not fit in there. In this place a very rare small size is required.
There is an easy fix for this in Pinwiki https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Modify_the_Display_Fuse_holder
If you are not comfortable with desoldering and soldering, don't try it, but it's not hard. Also, those two large capacitors appear to be original and should be replaced. along with the header pins.
I was told by Steve Young at PBR that the Bally nylon T- bushing is no longer available.
What you have is probably a Gottlieb bushing which is a slightly different shape. I have used the GTB bushibg (B8834) along with a GTB exterior trim plate ( A8831+), $12.06 for the pair. The trim plate is plain, no logo.
Quoted from emsrph:The Bally C-934 bushing seems to be available but won't fit here.
Do you know if a shooter rod diameter of 0.37" (9.4 mm) fits the Gottlieb bushing?
Where did you find a Bally C-934 shooter bushing?
I think that almost all shooter rods are the same diameter, someone could correct me.
Does anyone know of someone who can test an AS-2518-107 Solenoid/Lamp Driver Combo board? It only works in Baby PacMan and Granny and the Gators as it does not have a high voltage section. Particularly in the Mid-Atlantic area.
Thanks,
Alan
Quoted from flynnibus:Lots of ways to bench test boards - you just need the appropriate harnesses for the various boards.
Confused. I could make connectors for all the headers on the board, but where do they go? I have tested all the transistors and SCRs but I would like to pit this up for sale as, "Tested, working 100%". I don't think that I can do that without have it tested in an actual game.
Looking for a supplier for the C26 capacitor on Bally/Stern solenoid driver boards. They were custom made for Ed at GPE, but with his recent loss he is closing down his business, is out of stock on them and probably won't be receiving any more.
The cap is 150uF, 350 VDC, axial. I have searched Jameco, Mouser and a number of other sites to no avail. Richey will make you 100 with 28 weeks notice.
Does anyone out there have another source?
Quoted from frenchmarky:This place has a lot of old radio/TV capacitors, they have a 220uf @ 450 volts axial for 10 bucks.
Thmanks for the tip.. They do have a 150uf, 450v for $8.99, but Ed was at $5.00 before he ran out. Perhaps someone has them cheaper.
Another problem just cropped up this afternoon. I have a Stern Wild Fyre (MPU-100) that I bought recently that was working. Got it home, stripped and cleaned the playfield, remediated some small alkaline damage (I hope), and fired it up. This was two weeks ago. Game booted, got all seven flashes, displays work, goes into attract mode. All tests with the coin door button pass: switches, solenoids, sounds, etc. But it would not start a game even with credits on it. Switch #6, Credit Button, shows up in Switch Test.
Now this afternoon, game won't boot, gets the flicker on the MPU LED at power up, a long pause and one flash, or sometimes shows flicker, flash, pause, flash, flash, and that's it. Voltage readings at all test points on the power supply board are correct, and before it quit booting all test points on all boards were correct.
I have replaced U7, U8 and U10 with no change. Do you think that I still could have some lingering alkaline cancer or perhaps is there something else i could try? Should I bite the bullet and buy a Weebly and turn this MPU into a rectangular frisbee? Please see pics below. Thanks.
20220927_220205 (resized).jpg20220927_220210 (resized).jpg20220927_220222 (resized).jpg20220927_220226 (resized).jpg20220927_220232 (resized).jpg20220927_220236 (resized).jpg20220927_220301 (resized).jpgQuoted from vid1900:Did you use the SnoBowl to clean it?
No, just the usual vinegar & distilled water and 99% alcohol rinse. Not familiar with SnoBowl. You mean the toilet bowl cleaner?
Quoted from gdonovan:I see an AMI chip, I know where I would start.
Bought some used 6821s from a good friend, now I'm up to 6 flashes. 43.3 VDC on TP5 on P/S board. Checking further.
Good news!
I have a '77 Bally Eight Ball so I decided to at least try its AS-2518-17 in the Wild Fyre and see what happens. Lo and behold the MPU in the EB is a MPU-100 also. Both boards had 9316A roms in U2 and U6 so I switched them and it works 100%!
Come play it at The York Show.
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Jarrettsville, MD
