(Topic ID: 85292)

Bally/Stern AS-2518 Club !

By mof

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 32 hours ago by BorgDog
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There are 3,954 posts in this topic. You are on page 79 of 80.
#3901 80 days ago
Quoted from BigAl56:

Is the MPU properly switch optioned for Dolly Parton?

Yeah, 4 on 3 off 1 on. It is also blowing the 20 amp Gi fuse in coil test

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#3902 79 days ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

Yeah, 4 on 3 off 1 on. It is also blowing the 20 amp Gi fuse in coil test[quoted image]

On the replacement rectifier boards, J1 is 9 pins because some later games used a 9th pin. Dolly does not use the 9th pin, so if you didn't key your J1 connector after recrimping, you might have plugged it in wrong. J1 is everything for the playfield, including GI and solenoids.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
#3903 79 days ago
Quoted from Knxwledge:

On the replacement rectifier boards, J1 is 9 pins because some later games used a 9th pin. Dolly does not use the 9th pin, so if you didn't key your J1 connector after recrimping, you might have plugged it in wrong. J1 is everything for the playfield, including GI and solenoids.
[quoted image]

It’s not plugged into pin 9 on rec board J1. It’s getting proper power on all the LEDs on the mpu and sdb and booting all the way. I also found for continuity between mpu j4 1-4 and sdb j4 3-6. I’m wondering if it could be a bad connector elsewhere on the mpu or sdb. I’ll also go ahead and re repin the rec board connectors while I’m at it. I’ve ruled out lamp, sound, and switches other than test switch by unplugging them all.

#3904 79 days ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

Dolly fires wrong solenoids in test

Detail exactly which solenoids are activating at each solenoid test so we can try to work out if there is a pattern in the error.

Quoted from sullivcd40:

It also fires all solenoids to start a game.

Is the game playing the correct sounds/tunes?

Note, the solenoid select signals double up as sound select signals. These signals from MPU J4 (pins 1-4) first go to the sound board J1 (pins 1-4) then daisy chain onto the SDB J4 (pins 3-6) connector. There is a separate Solenoid/Sound control signal (MPU J4-10 to sound J1-8 to SDB J4-7 (Brown-Red wire)). This control signal tells the sound board and SDB who should accept the four select signals.

#3905 79 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

Detail exactly which solenoids are activating at each solenoid test so we can try to work out if there is a pattern in the error.

Is the game playing the correct sounds/tunes?
Note, the solenoid select signals double up as sound select signals. These signals from MPU J4 (pins 1-4) first go to the sound board J1 (pins 1-4) then daisy chain onto the SDB J4 (pins 3-6) connector. There is a separate Solenoid/Sound control signal (MPU J4-10 to sound J1-8 to SDB J4-7 (Brown-Red wire)). This control signal tells the sound board and SDB who should accept the four select signals.

The picture of the coil table shows handwritten actual versus expected in test. Sound is not properly functioning when plugged in. I’ve included additional pictures of the boards as well.

IMG_1128 (resized).jpegIMG_1128 (resized).jpegIMG_1129 (resized).jpegIMG_1129 (resized).jpegIMG_1130 (resized).jpegIMG_1130 (resized).jpegIMG_1131 (resized).jpegIMG_1131 (resized).jpegIMG_1132 (resized).jpegIMG_1132 (resized).jpegIMG_1133 (resized).jpegIMG_1133 (resized).jpeg
#3906 79 days ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

The picture of the coil table shows handwritten actual versus expected in test.

You've got 16 written next to the coin lockout and 17 next to the flipper relay, meanwhile there are only 11 coils total. Please clarify.

#3907 79 days ago
Quoted from Quench:You've got 16 written next to the coin lockout and 17 next to the flipper relay, meanwhile there are only 11 coils total. Please clarify.

16 is the number on the display when the coin lockout clicks.

#3908 79 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

You've got 16 written next to the coin lockout and 17 next to the flipper relay, meanwhile there are only 11 coils total. Please clarify.

Only 11 coils, but Stern/Bally didn't always used them in sequence; numbers would be skipped.

#3909 79 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

These signals from MPU J4 (pins 1-4) first go to the sound board J1 (pins 1-4) then daisy chain onto the SDB J4 (pins 3-6) connector. There is a separate Solenoid/Sound control signal (MPU J4-10 to sound J1-8 to SDB J4-7 (Brown-Red wire)). This control signal tells the sound board and SDB who should accept the four select signals.

This is a great clue, I think I need to repin the sound connectors next.

#3910 79 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Only 11 coils, but Stern/Bally didn't always used them in sequence; numbers would be skipped.

Stern yes, some of their games resolve the solenoid test number to the actual driver transistor number for convenience and go up to 19.
This is not the case with Bally and the game in question is Dolly Parton. Game only has 11 coils and so solenoid test only goes to 11 specifically testing each coil.

Quoted from sullivcd40:

16 is the number on the display when the coin lockout clicks.

If solenoid test is going to 16, your MPU board definitely is not running Dolly Parton game code.
Your game select dip switches look correct. I'm guessing that maybe switch number 5 is being seen as On instead of Off resulting in the board booting instead as Night Rider. This can explain why you see 16 in solenoid test and why many solenoids fire when you start a game (Night Rider is a chime game). Flick that game select switch 5 on and off a few times and back to off to see if it resolves to Dolly Parton.

#3911 79 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

Stern yes, some of their games resolve the solenoid test number to the actual driver transistor number and go up to 19.
This is not the case with Bally and the game in question is a Dolly Parton. Game only has 11 coils and so solenoid test only goes to 11.

If solenoid test is going to 16, your MPU board definitely is not running Dolly Parton game code.
Your game select dip switches look correct. I'm guessing that maybe switch number 5 is being seen as On instead of Off resulting in the board booting instead as Night Rider. This can explain why you see 16 in solenoid test and why many solenoids fire when you start a game (Night Rider is a chime game). Flick that game select switch 5 on and off a few times and back to off to see if it resolves to Dolly Parton.

I tried toggling all game select switches a few times, plugged everything backed in, but the problem remains. I have another weebly in my big game that I can try swapping.

#3912 79 days ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

I have another weebly in my big game that I can try swapping.

Wait a few minutes. We will test your switches on that MPU board. I just need to create a diagram for you.

#3913 79 days ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

I tried toggling all game select switches a few times, plugged everything backed in, but the problem remains.

The voltages at the round pads above the game select switches should read as indicated.

MPU_Weebly_Game_Select_Switches.jpgMPU_Weebly_Game_Select_Switches.jpg

#3914 79 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

The voltages at the round pads above the game select switches should read as indicated.
[quoted image]

I got 0 0 0 5 5 5 5 5 0. So getting 5v at the 4th pad from the left instead of 0 as indicated by your diagram.

#3915 79 days ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:

I got 0 0 0 5 5 5 5 5 0. So getting 5v at the 4th pad from the left instead of 0 as indicated by your diagram.

That equates to Kings of Steel. It goes to 17 in solenoid test. Try flicking that 4th switch on and off a few more times. If no luck you may need to talk to barakandl about it. Big Game wants that switch on as well. Anyway you can use the MPU board out of your Big Game to continue testing Dolly Parton.

#3916 79 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

That equates to Kings of Steel. It goes to 17 in solenoid test. Try flicking that 4th switch on and off a few more times. If no luck you may need to talk to barakandl about it. Big Game wants that switch on as well. Anyway you can use the MPU board out of your Big Game to continue testing Dolly Parton.

Let’s go!!!!!! Took a few more hard toggles and I felt that switch sorta pop into place. It’s was maybe sliding a little before. Thank you once again Quench! Also credit to Big Al, he was right from the beginning.

#3917 79 days ago

Quench - that was a beautiful example of remote triage. Really well done!!

#3918 78 days ago

Hopefully an easy question here.

I need to replace the switch stacks on my Mr and Mrs Pac for the flipper buttons. But I cannot for the life of me figure out the part number. It's not in the manual, and I'm not sure which part number in the '82 parts book is the one I'm looking for. More worried about the switches that control the pac-maze than the flippers themselves.

Anybody know what part number I'm needing to order?

#3919 77 days ago

New pop bumper switch stack from Pbl for an ebd. The diode for the spoon I get; the extra diode were the lights go, is not technically used. Leave or cut out?

IMG_3375 (resized).jpegIMG_3375 (resized).jpeg
#3920 77 days ago
Quoted from northvibe:

New pop bumper switch stack from Pbl for an ebd. The diode for the spoon I get; the extra diode were the lights go, is not technically used. Leave or cut out?[quoted image]

Cut out

10
#3921 75 days ago

Quench you are a truly phenomenal troubleshooter. Always very impressed.

#3922 75 days ago
Quoted from jsa:

@Quench you are a truly phenomenal troubleshooter.

Thanks! The trouble shooting we did here with your Future Spa was pretty epic
What was the end result with the solar inverter?

#3923 75 days ago
Quoted from jsa:

Quench you are a truly phenomenal troubleshooter. Always very impressed.

I second that! Amazing

#3924 75 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

Thanks! The trouble shooting we did here with your Future Spa was pretty epic
What was the end result with the solar inverter?

The company that made it ripped the entire thing out on their own dime and replaced it with a modern and better electronics. Then a year ago I sold the house and moved to Michigan. Future Spa came with me. Of course!

It was amazing that the manufacturer read through our whole thread. They changed things as a result.

Now I use isolating transformers as a matter of principle.

#3925 72 days ago
Quoted from jsa:

Quench you are a truly phenomenal troubleshooter. Always very impressed.

Quench really is this best here. I had some crazy issue and he replied with some crazy thing to check that I thought "huh, no way", but of course he was right. Something I'd been chasing for weeks resolved in minutes.

#3926 71 days ago
Quoted from northvibe:

New pop bumper switch stack from Pbl for an ebd. The diode for the spoon I get; the extra diode were the lights go, is not technically used. Leave or cut out?[quoted image]

Flip one solder lug to the other side for the lamp feature.

1 week later
#3927 62 days ago

can someone confirm factory star post size on bally's is 1 3/16?

#3928 62 days ago
Quoted from woody76:

can someone confirm factory star post size on bally's is 1 3/16?

What specific post.... They use both heights on most games depending on position.

#3929 62 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

What specific post.... They use both heights on most games depending on position.

Its for a Dolly Parton. I do not have the game in hand yet and was wanting to order some supplies for the swap. I ordered 1 3/16.

#3930 61 days ago

Was 8 years old when I first started playing these awesome games and now I finally an owner. Added a nice Future Spa with freshly stenciled cabinet, nice playfield and have pushed all my modern games aside the last two nights to dig in! What a great game…played on location and in tourney for the past couple months along with many other Bally/Sterns.

Wish the backglass didn't have the flaking from previous owners but it’s been cleared.

Won’t try to ask too many questions as a noob to the group
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#3931 61 days ago
Quoted from woody76:

Its for a Dolly Parton. I do not have the game in hand yet and was wanting to order some supplies for the swap. I ordered 1 3/16.

You can view and download the parts manuals here: https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Bally/Stern#Parts_Catalogs
Bally games generally use 2 different height posts depending on if the post supports a plastic or not.

#3932 59 days ago

Been bringing a Xenon back from the dead and I'm getting stumped by a sound problem. When playing the background music tones, random individual tones will play much quieter than the others. As the music loops, it's different tones each time. Additionally, I've noticed the sounds for the inlane and outlane rollovers always play very quietly and sometimes other sound effects will randomly play quietly. The volume doesn't ever change while an effect is playing. When an effect starts it's either normal or quiet for the whole effect. All sounds play clearly with no buzzing, static, or crackling. All vocalizer sounds are always the correct volume.

Things I've done so far: J1 connector replaced with molex, new caps installed, new pots on sound board, jumpered around cabinet pot to rule it out, cleaned all socketed chip legs and reseated. Thought maybe Q2 was involved but putting 5V on the base lowers good and bad sounds by the same amount. SDB got a new 5V filter cap and I'm seeing 4.9-5.1V on the sound board. I have a logic probe but no scope.

#3933 59 days ago
Quoted from IN_Pins:

Been bringing a Xenon back from the dead and I'm getting stumped by a sound problem. When playing the background music tones, random individual tones will play much quieter than the others. Additionally, I've noticed the sounds for the inlane and outlane rollovers always play very quietly and sometimes other sound effects will randomly play quietly. The volume doesn't ever change while an effect is playing. When an effect starts it's either normal or quiet for the whole effect. All sounds play clearly with no buzzing, static, or crackling. All vocalizer sounds are always the correct volume.
Things I've done so far: J1 connector replaced with molex, new caps installed, new pots on sound board, jumpered around cabinet pot to rule it out, cleaned all socketed chip legs and reseated, thought maybe Q2 was involved but putting 5V on the base lowers good and bad sounds by the same amount. SDB got a new 5V filter cap and I'm seeing 4.9-5.1V on the sound board. I have a logic probe but no scope.

Myself I'd burn a new set of eproms, I have had some with bit-rot with missing or garbled sound.

#3934 58 days ago

Looking for a few parts if anyone has these items for sale

Bally coin door in nice shape
Bally Shoot rod and housing/bezel

#3935 57 days ago

Out of nowhere today while playing a game my right flipper just stopped working on my FBC. So I did the basics and cleaned the switches on the flipper button and the EOS.
Had to search the forums for about 10 minutes to find the best course of action. Tested the coil to verify voltage. Then I pulled the solenoid driver board, yup! Sure enough lots of cold joints. Should have taken a picture of the right flipper pin. I’m surprised it’s worked since new years when I picked it up.

Was not my weekend plan, but now it’s done and there’s actually some other improvements , like every display is super bright and orange now and the tilt bob works.

Glad for all the posted support here!

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1 week later
#3936 44 days ago

Has anyone reproduced bell posts? I’ve got an EBD that’s missing a bunch…

2 weeks later
#3937 30 days ago
Quoted from MR-808:

Has anyone reproduced bell posts? I’ve got an EBD that’s missing a bunch…

Vender on Ebay sells them used

#3938 30 days ago

Hi all. Just joined the club, got a beautiful Black Pyramid that I'm just chasing down one last issue on.
I noticed the left bumper would 50/50 award as if I got the left orbit shot. I tracked it down to even just banging in the upper playfield with my fist would get it to score the left orbit.
I've changed the caps and diodes on both the bumper and the orbit rollover. I adjusted the gap on the switch as well so I can tell it's not actually closing when I thump on the playfield.

Anyone had a similar issue? Rollover triggering off playfield vibration?

#3939 26 days ago

Here's a new mod for the AS-2518-16 Bally Solenoid Driver board. Quickie fuse installation.
The guy who did this can vote.

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#3940 25 days ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

Here's a new mod for the AS-2518-16 Bally Solenoid Driver board.

The trimpot to adjust the high voltage is missing. That usually sets the output to maximum voltage which could be over 230V.
Also the fuse spec is 0.25A 0.2A fast blow. In an overcurrent event, the high voltage transistors on the SDB will blow before that slow-blow fuse does.

#3941 25 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

The trimpot to adjust the high voltage is missing. That usually sets the output to maximum voltage which could be over 230V.
Also the fuse spec is 0.25A fast blow. In an overcurrent event, the high voltage transistors on the SDB will blow before that slow-blow fuse does.

From @quench:

#3942 23 days ago

In Dolly I touched my mm on a lamp socket to check voltage and the light went out. Swapped in a different lamp board and the light came on. Did I touch the wrong part of the socket? Also, how do I replace transistors on a weebly board?

#3943 23 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

The trimpot to adjust the high voltage is missing. That usually sets the output to maximum voltage which could be over 230V.
Also the fuse spec is 0.25A fast blow. In an overcurrent event, the high voltage transistors on the SDB will blow before that slow-blow fuse does.

Not to mention, you will have nice bright displays for a while, until the overvoltage lets the smoke out of them

#3944 21 days ago
Quoted from sullivcd40:In Dolly I touched my mm on a lamp socket to check voltage and the light went out. Swapped in a different lamp board and the light came on. Did I touch the wrong part of the socket? Also, how do I replace transistors on a weebly board?

Clip the associated scr and install mcr106 in the corresponding 3 hole slot with metal tab facing the thicker bar. And I guess you just can’t touch the socket at all with a mm or you’ll smoke a transistor. These lamp sockets, jeez.

2 weeks later
#3945 7 days ago

What do you guys, if you have, use to fabricate the drop assembly bottom plates? I found both of the Fathom 3x Inline banks but one is missing the bottom plate. It doesn't seem to line up with normal assembly plates but will with a 4x assembly plate. The inline turn up now and again, but since I have a working example I figured maybe I should just make one. Curious what I should be using to make it? Sheet metal seems a bit thin... picture of what I'm trying to make attached. I need to make the part in the red box. This is a 4x assembly photo (I was lazy and found this picture online), a 3 is identical but shorter. Would a 3d print work?
Inline Bracket (resized).jpegInline Bracket (resized).jpeg

#3946 7 days ago

The left white inline target assembly is what Bally's Fathom uses.
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png
The assembly has the three memory bank coils.
Adjustable Bottom Plate parts, 3 Bank:
Bottom Plate Frame #P-7941-1
Adjustable Bottom Plate #P-8172-3
Note: Yellow 3 Bank has Adjustable Bottom Plates also.

#3947 7 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

The left white inline target assembly is what Bally's Fathom uses.
[quoted image]
The assembly has the three memory bank coils.
Adjustable Bottom Plate parts, 3 Bank:
Bottom Plate Frame #P-7941-1
Adjustable Bottom Plate #P-8172-3
Note: Yellow 3 Bank has Adjustable Bottom Plates also.

Yes, I have both inline in your photo. One of the 2 inline banks is missing that part and I assume won't be easy to find. A friend has a Viking so I was able to compare his 4x inline bottom plate with the single 3x inline bottom plate I own and the slots align, I would just need to cut it down/modify it a bit, so I'd be ok with one of those also, which I also assume won't be easy to find either, hence the reason I'm considering fabricating one as it's purpose is rather simple

thanks for the response

#3948 7 days ago
Quoted from splattii:

One of the 2 inline banks is missing that part

????
The bottom plate is a two-part assembly. not single.

#3949 42 hours ago

Where can I get more of these playfield post screws found on these games? Im sure theyre out there but cant seem to get the right search terms

20240713_223847 (resized).jpg20240713_223847 (resized).jpg
#3950 39 hours ago
Quoted from Knxwledge:

Where can I get more of these playfield post screws found on these games? Im sure theyre out there but cant seem to get the right search terms
[quoted image]

https://www.pinballlife.com/machine-poststud-530-5010-02.html

Always tricky to figure out what to search for with these bits and bobs, eh?

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