(Topic ID: 85292)

Bally/Stern AS-2518 Club !

By mof

8 years ago


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There are 3,454 posts in this topic. You are on page 68 of 70.
#3351 3 months ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

There's a fine line between amusement.....and terror.

I already fixed it after reviewing the schematics and checking voltages.

My initial reaction was what horror is this?

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#3352 3 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

I thought this would generate vast amusement for our knowledgeable board members.
[quoted image]

It's rarely gonna shock someone with that cage in play. This keeps'em on their toes.

#3353 3 months ago
Quoted from guitarded:

It's rarely gonna shock someone with that cage in play. This keeps'em on their toes.

Look closer.

#3354 3 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

I thought this would generate vast amusement for our knowledgeable board members.
[quoted image]

What's going on there? Rectifying the GI? The typical hack is to put extra diodes on the feature lamp bus to bring the V down but that looks like its on the transformer tap wires.

Not sure why they used two bridges unless they are spreading load out.

#3355 3 months ago
Quoted from barakandl:

What's going on there? Rectifying the GI? The typical hack is to put extra diodes on the feature lamp bus to bring the V down but that looks like its on the transformer tap wires.
Not sure why they used two bridges unless they are spreading load out.

Both the GI and the feature lights are being run through partial bridges to lower the lamp voltages.

Yes everything was pretty dim.

#3356 3 months ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

I thought this would generate vast amusement for our knowledgeable board members.
[quoted image]

So instead of just tapping from the pcb if they wanted to do offboard... they put pigtails in the cable harness?? Guess this is the guy who didn't have a soldering gun...

#3357 3 months ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

So instead of just tapping from the pcb if they wanted to do offboard... they put pigtails in the cable harness?? Guess this is the guy who didn't have a soldering gun...

Well the wires are soldered to the bridges, yes the cut the harness between the transformer and its connectors.

#3358 3 months ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

So instead of just tapping from the pcb if they wanted to do offboard... they put pigtails in the cable harness?? Guess this is the guy who didn't have a soldering gun...

I see two red/white wires going off to "off board" FWbridge rectifiers... but no additional wires going to the other pins of the rectifiers.
I see "loops" on the other two pins; but do not see any connections.

In my opinion; they are unconnected so the "electrons are gonna fall out"

1 week later
#3359 3 months ago

OK I found and fixed my own problem but I figured I would post the solution here in case I need to find it in the future.

I have an Alltek MPU and Ultimate Solenoid Driver board on my Star Trek.

I was repairing a lamp socket and when I put the playfield back down (with the power on - I LEARNED MY LESSON - ALWAYS TURN OFF THE POWER AS IT WILL SAVE YOU HEADACHE) I obviously shorted something and blew a fuse.

Specifically I blew the F1 fuse on the Solenoid driver board - the symptoms - game boots but no feature lamps, no switches, and no score displays.

I replaced the F1 only to have it blow right away.

I was going to search for a short when I decided to check the F4 fuse on the rectifier. Sure enough it was blown. I replaced that and the F1 on the solenoid and everything was back to normal.

So if/when the F4 fuse blows because you short out the feature lamps, the F1 fuse may blow on the Solenoid driver board. I haven't researched why yet, but they were definitely related. No I didn't have the displays out or do anything with the displays, I was only working on a playfield lamp.

13
#3360 3 months ago

Just need to add score / instruction cards. Both games left in a barn to die, rusty mouse piss metal, disgusting, etc... now look like they just came out of the factory. It was a long haul...

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#3361 3 months ago

These look amazing!! How did you do the playfield restore? We’re the back glasses in decent shape

#3362 3 months ago
Quoted from jturner:

These look amazing!! How did you do the playfield restore? We’re the back glasses in decent shape

CPR playfields in both. The rest is original (but cabinets repainted). Every last screw on the buffing wheel

#3363 3 months ago

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#3364 3 months ago
Quoted from bayoubilly70:

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The games look great! I don't know if you are like me or not but I feel like it is my civic duty to save these games when I find them neglected in the wild. Saving a game gives me a real sense of pride.

#3365 3 months ago
Quoted from Mad_Dog_Coin_Op:

Saving a game gives me a real sense of pride.

Problem is; I usually spend WAY TOO MUCH restoring them to ever hope getting the money back out.

#3366 3 months ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Problem is; I usually spend WAY TOO MUCH restoring them to ever hope getting the money back out.

Oh yes, you know it. Both games are like brand new but I paid the price...

#3367 3 months ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Problem is; I usually spend WAY TOO MUCH restoring them to ever hope getting the money back out.

Amen, I just finished up an EBD restore from the dead but had more water damage than I thought and ended up with a whole pile of new woodworking tools. Will never get back what I put in. But I really like the result and would do it again. Especially with all the new tools I have

#3368 3 months ago

Ah, yes... The tool justification. Played that card often myself.

#3369 3 months ago

I have an issue with EBD, the outhole kicker does not have enough power to serve the ball into the shooter lane. Any and all suggestions welcome and appreciated.

However, when I manually short the transistor tab or coil lug to ground it works fine. (I do this by putting the game in lamp test so that the expansion “lamp” is lit which also pulls the relay on for the solenoid expander board).

Here is the video that shows the three tests, and two slow motion videos of the mech firing in normal test mode.

What I have tried:
-new outhole kicker solenoid (AO-26-1200)
-Reduced spring tension on solenoid kicker
-cleaned and bench polished kicker mech, new coil sleeve.
-Rottendog driver board
-Alltek Mpu
-Alltek lamp driver board
-Repinned J3&J5 on driver board
-Gulf Pinball Power Supply Board
-Gulf pinball solenoid expander board
-Repinned connector on expander board

#3370 89 days ago

I'd replace the outhole driver transistor and the predriver.

#3371 89 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

I'd replace the outhole driver transistor and the predriver.

How to replace the driver transistor for the outhole what is the pre-driver?

#3372 89 days ago

I have replaced the driver transistor for the outhole what is the pre-driver?

#3373 89 days ago

I think I have a new favorite classic.

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#3374 89 days ago
Quoted from knockerlover:

I have replaced the driver transistor for the outhole what is the pre-driver?

Look at the schematics. usually there is a TO-92 transistor connected to the base of the power transistor. The "pre-driver" provides additional current to drive the power transistor into deep saturation.
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Looks like Bally replaced the predriver with U3 which is a bunch transistors in a plastic DIP plastic.
I'd replace U3 and CR13. I'd test R22 and the other resistor to make sure it's in spec.

#3375 86 days ago
Quoted from Zitt:

Look at the schematics. usually there is a TO-92 transistor connected to the base of the power transistor. The "pre-driver" provides additional current to drive the power transistor into deep saturation.
[quoted image]
Looks like Bally replaced the predriver with U3 which is a bunch transistors in a plastic DIP plastic.
I'd replace U3 and CR13. I'd test R22 and the other resistor to make sure it's in spec.

It was a driver board issue, thanks for the help!

#3376 86 days ago

Im looking for a diagram someone posted (on one of these bally or game specific threads) that shows the voltages at various parts of the high voltage circuit of a Bally SDB. I have searched this and the game specific threads I follow and just keep missing it.

I completely rebuilt the HV section on an AS 2518-16 over the summer that I use as a backup and it just burned up R52 so I'm trying to figure out what is broken to let the voltage get too high across it.

Thanks if anyone remembers that.

#3377 84 days ago
Quoted from KJL:

Im looking for a diagram someone posted (on one of these bally or game specific threads) that shows the voltages at various parts of the high voltage circuit of a Bally SDB. I have searched this and the game specific threads I follow and just keep missing it.
I completely rebuilt the HV section on an AS 2518-16 over the summer that I use as a backup and it just burned up R52 so I'm trying to figure out what is broken to let the voltage get too high across it.
Thanks if anyone remembers that.

This is the post. Really helped me with the diagram reorganized to make the circuit easier to understand. Now to do some readings.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-as-2518-22-voltage-regulator-problem-with-high-voltage#post-6207406

#3378 82 days ago

I am working on a Mr. & Mrs. Pac-man for a friend. It has the odd cabinet design with the 2 part head. The displays are in the bottom head cabinet and the boards in the top.
To access them it looks like I will have to take the top portion of the head off.
Is there anyone who has worked on a Eight Ball, Centaur II or a Mr. & Mrs. Pac-Man that can confirm this before I separate the 2 sections?

#3379 82 days ago
Quoted from Phesson:

To access them it looks like I will have to take the top portion of the head off.

You open the backbox like any other game, there's a slide mech that you pull back then the display backglass part opens.
You remove that like any other backglass, pull up there should be a bracket on the bottom to grip.

#3380 82 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

You remove that like any other backglass, pull up there should be a bracket on the bottom to grip.

Thanks slochar

#3381 81 days ago

Hey everyone,

Having a small issue on my Harlem Globetrotters On Tour that I'd love some advice on.

Everything works fine, for the most part, but I can't seem to dial in the switch gap on the slam dunk shot. A kind of slow, rolling hit will almost always make connection; but if I make a hard, direct shot at the target 4 out of 5 times it won't register.

It's a new switch, purchased from PinballLife; I've tried cleaning it a ton, gaping the switch really close, but I can't seem to get it to consistently count when the target is hit.

Thoughts?

#3382 81 days ago
Quoted from reconsider59:

It's a new switch, purchased from PinballLife; I've tried cleaning it a ton, gaping the switch really close, but I can't seem to get it to consistently count when the target is hit.
Thoughts?

Does the switch have a good capacitor on it? Even if it doesn't have one you might want to add one to it.

#3383 75 days ago

Did a swap my Fathom and now things are a bit wonky. any help would be appreciated!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fathom-playfield-swap-switch-row-problems#post-7238637

#3384 72 days ago

I noticed in a Future Spa i just picked up that LEDs in the game over light had a bit of strobe light effect to them. It had a replacement MPU in it with a display interrupt adjustment pot. Twizzling the pot counterclockwise to slow down the display update made the feature lamps that are always on have less strobe to them. A slow motion camera or looking at the light from the peripheral vision will help detect strobing. When incandescent lamps are used the strobing of the feature lamp is pretty well invisible.

Its known that a seven digit game with extra displays and triac drivers are particular to the display interrupt timing, but first time I have noticed anything with lamps in six digit game. That said, if you use a MPU originally from a seven digit game in a six digit game, you may get some LED lamps flickering that are always on. Glancing at my Big Game with LEDs and a slow motion camera, I pick up some similar stuff. At times when the lamps that should be always on blink a few times when the CPU is thinking about other stuff like counting bonus or collecting the candy cane shape lane.

Balancing the orchestration of the CPU clock, zero cross interrupt, and display interrupts there seems to be sweet spots of the display interrupt timer that is possible different game to game or OS ROM to OS ROM. I have to figure Bally engineers took this into account, but resistors and capacitors can be quite out of tolerance. I have not looked to see if there is an easy way to bodge in a trimmer on an original MPU. 20K-36K is about the usable resistance range.

If you have noticed LED feature lamps have a bit of strobe and have a replacement MPU with a display interrupt adjustment pot, try giving it a spin. You will want to keep on an eye on your displays flickering too. Seven digit games turned too much counterclockwise will make the display flicker. The displays should look OK at any display int speed when using six digit displays.

#3385 72 days ago
Quoted from barakandl:

Balancing the orchestration of the CPU clock, zero cross interrupt, and display interrupts there seems to be sweet spots of the display interrupt timer

Sorry upfront if this sounds a bit complicated.

The Display Interrupt takes precedence over Zero Crossing interrupt. What this means is if they occur at exactly the same time, the displays will be serviced first and once finished, then the zero crossing services will be processed.
Also if the zero crossing interrupt is currently being serviced, the display interrupt request can 'interrupt' the zero crossing service and take over. A zero crossing interrupt cannot 'interrupt' a display interrupt being serviced.
The faster the display interrupt generator is running, the less attention is given to zero crossing interrupts.

Essentially the displays are the highest priority peripheral to be serviced.

Net result is the feature lamp refresh performed during the zero crossing service is sometimes delayed or missed exacerbating the flickering.

The zero crossing service generally updates game timers including match number, refreshes the feature lamps, scans the switch matrix, releases momentary coils and depending on game may perform some sound related functions.

It could be interesting to see what happens if zero crossing was first priority and made so it cannot be interrupted by the displays considering most of the players attention is on the playfield rather than the displays.

#3386 71 days ago

Other - Wanted
Wanted! - “Looking to purchase a Bally "brown box" testing unit for solenoid driver boards. The boards would include the Bally AS-2518-16, AS-2516-22 and the Stern SDU-100. I know that these...”
29 days ago
Jarrettsville, MD
Wanted

1 week later
#3387 63 days ago

I have a Mata Hari that has all modern boards. It has a problem that I noticed recently. During a 4 player game it will reset. It will play a 1,2 or 3 player game without incident but each time a 4 player game is played, it will reboot.
It is my understanding that most reset issues come from the 5 volt to the mpu dipping. I’m not sure why this would be isolated to a 4 player game.
Any leads on where I would start troubleshooting this issue?

#3388 63 days ago
Quoted from Phesson:

I have a Mata Hari that has all modern boards. It has a problem that I noticed recently. During a 4 player game it will reset. It will play a 1,2 or 3 player game without incident but each time a 4 player game is played, it will reboot.
It is my understanding that most reset issues come from the 5 volt to the mpu dipping. I’m not sure why this would be isolated to a 4 player game.
Any leads on where I would start troubleshooting this issue?

First thought is power load on the SDB or power supply. Since the 4th player display is off during 1/2/3 player games, it might be less load. Would be interesting to try disconnecting the 4th player display and then play a 4 player game with the 4th player being blind of score. If the game doesn't reset, you have somewhere to start (like swapping the 4th player display with another player and see if the problem follows the display or stays with the 4th player display load).

#3389 63 days ago
Quoted from Phesson:

I have a Mata Hari that has all modern boards. It has a problem that I noticed recently. During a 4 player game it will reset. It will play a 1,2 or 3 player game without incident but each time a 4 player game is played, it will reboot.
It is my understanding that most reset issues come from the 5 volt to the mpu dipping. I’m not sure why this would be isolated to a 4 player game.
Any leads on where I would start troubleshooting this issue?

My guess would be problems with the ram memory.
The game wants to write at the player 4 location, but for some reason it can't and causes a reset.
Try another ram chip (or nvram).

#3390 63 days ago
Quoted from frenchmarky:

Does the switch have a good capacitor on it? Even if it doesn't have one you might want to add one to it.

Yes, seemingly so...thinking on it, I've actually had this kind of issue with a LOT of brand-new switches, where no matter how I gap them switches, they seem spotty sometimes, or like they don't make GOOD connection.

I've read that I shouldn't scuff up the touch-points, but I'm starting to wonder if that's bad advice, and I should do more than just run a rough business-card between them?

#3391 63 days ago
Quoted from reconsider59:

Yes, seemingly so...

Post a clear picture showing the switch wiring before you put anything abrasive across the gold contacts.

#3392 63 days ago
Quoted from reconsider59:

Yes, seemingly so...thinking on it, I've actually had this kind of issue with a LOT of brand-new switches, where no matter how I gap them switches, they seem spotty sometimes, or like they don't make GOOD connection.
I've read that I shouldn't scuff up the touch-points, but I'm starting to wonder if that's bad advice, and I should do more than just run a rough business-card between them?

You could soak a drop or two of alcohol or DeOxit into a business card and run it thru, then again with a dry card, just in case there is stubborn crud on the gold points from the factory. But definitely do not use anything abrasive, it will only make it worse. I'd still put a new capacitor on it too, to rule that out.

#3393 60 days ago
Quoted from Phesson:

I have a Mata Hari that has all modern boards. It has a problem that I noticed recently. During a 4 player game it will reset. It will play a 1,2 or 3 player game without incident but each time a 4 player game is played, it will reboot.
It is my understanding that most reset issues come from the 5 volt to the mpu dipping. I’m not sure why this would be isolated to a 4 player game.
Any leads on where I would start troubleshooting this issue?

Does your Mata Hari also have LED displays? LED displays consume less power than the originl ones, of course, but the old ones consumed their power from the 170 Volts line, whereas the new LED ones consume from the 5 Volts line, which may be too much sometimes...

#3394 60 days ago
Quoted from Thunfisch:

Does your Mata Hari also have LED displays? LED displays consume less power than the originl ones, of course, but the old ones consumed their power from the 170 Volts line, whereas the new LED ones consume from the 5 Volts line, which may be too much sometimes...

Unless you are running a China 5V regulator, the LED displays should be a nonissue.

#3395 60 days ago
Quoted from Thunfisch:

Does your Mata Hari also have LED displays?

It does have pinscore led displays

#3396 60 days ago
Quoted from Phesson:

It does have pinscore led displays

Could always unplug them and play blind to see if the problem occurs.

#3397 60 days ago

Hi Guys, not sure if this is the correct forum but I thought you might like to a video of this restored Dolly Parton.

She sure is a beauty.

Thanks

#3398 58 days ago

Can anybody point me to a decent set of laminated insert decals for Silverball Mania? I'm not looking for the big color overlay, but rather the individual insert letters for the middle of the playfield.

I have a CPR replacement playfield for it, but just looking to pretty this one up until I decide to make that swap...

#3399 56 days ago

Pop bumper led? I hate those bayonet base pop lamp holders. This should be able to sit low in the body and with a wide angle lense led should light up pretty good.

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#3400 56 days ago
Quoted from barakandl:

Pop bumper led? I hate those bayonet base pop lamp holders. This should be able to sit low in the body and with a wide angle lense led should light up pretty good.
[quoted image]

Interesting. Willing to do some testing. Some bodies are different sizes, and will they have a cap/res pair for anti-flicker?

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