Voltage rating of a an electrolytic capacitor is a maximum rating so it is OK to increase the voltage rating, within reason. I think there is a decent reason not to run a 400v electrolytic cap on a 5v supply.. Generally I go for 2x the working voltage. 15,000uF 63v would be OK, it will likely be physically quite large thought and not mount well.

https://www.arrow.com/en/products/slp153m025c4p3/illinois-capacitor

[NOTE: I apologize for the very long post here--I guess I had a lot of questions.]

It wasn't until I started waiting for my capacitors to show up that I really absorbed what was written here. Now I see exactly what was meant and so I dug in a little more. One thing I noted early on was most of my backbox did not light up. It looks like the first two J3 pins on the rectifier board are burned and someone clipped them off. Good--problem was easy enough to figure out but now I'm seeing a ton of other burned pins. Boo. So I'm going to actually try to re-pin these guys and I was hoping folks would be kind enough to get me going in the right direction here.

Edited to remove most of my babble as to not clog up the thread--I found everything I need so the questions became unnecessary.

I have a Xenon that, when I turn it on and the MPU is booting, I get a very slight and momentary energizing of the rear kickout hole solenoid. It's so slight that the kicker arm barely moves, but I can see it and hear it. It's not the full kick that's usual when the game is resetting upon boot-up and it kicks both holes to clear any balls that may have been left there, that happens a few seconds after. I replaced the diode on the coil but that did nothing. I also checked all the SDB transistors when troubleshooting an unrelated problem and they were all fine. Any idea what might be causing this? This isn't normal Bally behavior, is it?

I think this is nothing to worry about. In these early moments of the boot process, things are happening. My Xenon does things like that, too.

This sounds like the behavior you see with a cheap squeak driving the solenoid bits during the reset delay, but this shouldn't really be happening in xenon with a -51 (like) sound board.

During the MPU reset delay at power on the PIA ports controlling the solenoids and sound will be high impedance, nothing actively driving it. The solenoid bits have weak pullups on the driver board and there is no pullup on the bank select. Easy for noise or other things during the power on period stimulate the solenoid decoder. I think the bit pattern for coil in question is '1000' and bank select as a 0.

What kind of MPU do you have? If it has a reset button, hold the reset button down. Does that coil lock on? As long as the coil does not lock on when you hold the MPU reset button down, I wouldn't worry about it.

Likely a pullup resistor between driver board solenoid between solenoid decoder P24 and P19 would take care of keeping the solenoid chip disabled until the PIA wakes up and starts driving that port. Otherwise we depend on solenoid pull ups to deliver the empty bit pattern of 1111 (free parking).

It's the game's original -35 board. I only see the red push button switch in the upper right corner, which honestly I've never pressed on any Bally game, is that what it's for?

Didn't think it worth mentioning, but the insert lamps all flash on for a split second too, right before that solenoid energizes for a split second, at boot up. I always thought that was just normal, is it a similar occurance?

That's only used to set values aka settings in nvram.

I use it rarely to set audit values for bonus games.

Finally able to join this club with a HG.

Got a CPR PF on the way and am about to order plastics, spinner decals, and a whole hell of a lot more!

Also, if I want to use LEDs for the PF inserts to minimize the strain on a 43 year old wiring harness, do you have to use "no ghostings" LEDs? I put traditional single frosted LED bulbs, and due to the relaatively low current draw, the LEDs stay on, even when they are not supposed to.

Thoughts? I'm new to these older games, so please, be gentle as I learn : ).

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Thanks, but turns out it was even simpler—I keep forgetting there's that little fuse on the Sol Driver board. That was it. We're back in business!

Oh I may have mis understood.. is this happening during the power on self test flashing (test four and five) or right at the moment you flip the power switch and before flash one?

If it happens at flash four or flash five you can ignore it. The MPU checks the PIAs at test four and five which may make the sound board chirp, solenoid twitch, lamp flash.

Yes, just checked and that's exactly when it's occurring. Was worried that a transistor or something might be on its way out, glad it's nothing. Thanks!

No need for non-ghosting LEDs, but you’ll need this Alltek board. I just bought one today for a Centaur I recently picked up. This will eliminate your issue.

https://allteksystems.com/collections/pinball-replacement-board-products/products/ultimate-led-lamp-driver-board

I have a thread for the two playfield swaps I did (Medusa and Fathom), and there are plenty of other threads to help you out. Good luck!

Or this one -
https://nvram.weebly.com/bally-stern-ldb.html

Yeah, good call. There are some cheaper options as well on pinballlife. Whatever you use, you’ll need a new board or some type of board adapter.

I grabbed one of those CPR HGT PFs, too.

Excited to spruce mine up this Summer.

Beautiful. Thank you, both! Got a board on the way. With the CPR PF, plastics, spinner decals, and other assorted goodies on the way, this will be a good project!

Curious tho. That playfield looks terrific from what I can see on my phone. Why are you replacing it?

One of the insert lamps on my Xenon keeps burning out after a day or two of play, I've replaced the same bulb three times in a week. It's in the middle of the playfield and there are other lamps much closer to solenoids, so I don't think vibration is the problem. Bayonet base is brand new. Is there anything on the LDB, a faulty SCR, resistor, diode, or whatever, that could cause this? The bulbs are #47's from Pinball Life, and it could be the bulbs of course, but three in the same spot is more than coincidence.

Modern day incandescent bulbs suck these days. The quality is awful. That is why I quit using them. I bet it is still the bulb. Got any old GE 44 bulbs laying around? Stick one of those in that position. Make sure the bulb isn’t overly bright. If it is you have a problem somewhere. If it looks normal, just run it that way for awhile. I bet the OEM GE bulb will work just fine.

Hello All,
I snagged this photo from Jjsmooth’s thread on building a Star Gazer. I have sourced the target faces and mounting brackets. What I don’t have yet is a good switch assembly to use for this build. Most of the ones out there are riveted together. Not the end of the world but I would prefer not having to drill them out. PBR has some not riveted but I am not sure which one to go with. Anybody have any good standup target switch recommendation?

F41F36F9-3E9F-4B38-B648-916955DD5A29 (resized).jpeg

i used the one with rivet which i drilled out and re-riveted, pain in the butt for sure :/

Yeah - trying to avoid that. Which ones did you go with? Got a link or part number?

No.
There is nothing but 5 volts and ground on the lamp driver board - not enough voltage to cause a lamp to burn out.

Like Mad_Dog_Coin_Op said, put an old genuine GE lamp there.

Don't even bother using new incandescent bulbs in pop bumpers of any game newer than an EM. Vibration will knock them out right away.

Replace with warm white LED. Tell nobody, and nobody will notice.

The new incandescent bulbs are garbage. I installed all new ones on a Kickoff I did a few years ago and easy a 1/3 of the bulbs were dead in a month.

Everything gets Comet LED's now, everything. This Supersonic been rocking it at work now for almost a year, not a single Comet warm white retro frosted has failed.

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I love when you show that Supersonic getting some use. It's so awesome to see.

One resident comes down every day to play in his wheelchair.

Hey everyone..
I'm looking for a transformer for a Star Trek, E-122-125.
Please send me any possible info on one...Final piece for Scotty to get the warp drive back on line!!

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If you can't find a used one, Homepin is producing a clone with all new parts, but it's a bit pricey. Here's one from one of their distributors in Canada showing 14 in stock....don't know if a US based distributor has it yet:

https://nitropinball.com/products/homepin-bally-a2-power-transformer-module-as-2877-1-inc-tx122-125-as-2518-pcb-mounting-bracket-w-screws

Homepin Bally Transformer (resized).jpg

I did find that one from Homepin.
It is pricey but I figure finding an original at this date will be also.
They distribute outta Washington so maybe I can get it from the source.
Anyone ever use one of these?

Not yet, but if I'm ever doing a restore on an old Bally and the transformer is beyond saving by fixing or replacing the rectifier board, I'd certainly try it.

Then I'll order it tomorrow and let you know.
Thanks for the advice

I asked Pinball Life about these a couple of weeks back as they used to have them listed and was told they sold out but more are on the way right now. Sea freight so who knows how long that will take the way things are these days?

Had the same problem, missing a transformer on my Paragon project. Pinballresource didn't have any and and Pinballlife gave me a 3+ month ETA, so I ordered it from Nitro Pinball. Pricey but it came after a week and it is wired for 120V despite what the picture shown on their website. Looks pretty solid and is heavy, but I haven't put it in yet.

Ok, scratching my head here on my HG.

Purchased a brand new aftermarket Weebly lamp driver board so I can convert incads to LEDs and lighten the load on a 43 year old wiring harness.

Systematically unplugged connectors, brought original lamp board out. Plugged new Weebly board in. Turned game on, left game in attract mode and heard a new "oscillating hum" coming from the head somewhere. After about 30 seconds, smelled that terrible plastic burning aroma, and saw Q57 visibly smoking. All of this occurred in attract mode.

Turned game off right away. Checked all connectors on the board and the MPU (some of the MPU connectors will inadvertently pulled off while installing the Weebly board). Checked everything I could see. Kept my finger on Q57 and booted the game. Q57 got hot quick, so tured game off.

Baffled, I swapped boards back out with the original 43 year old Bally lamp board. Fired game up with finger on Q57. Zero problems. Q57 is room temperature in attract mode.

What gives? Did I get a DOA board?

What game?

Does that lamp driven by Q57 work with your factory lamp driver board? Did you make sure there isn't a short at the lamp socket driven by Q57?

It is for Harlem Globetrotters.

All good questions. Unfortunately, I am headed to bed for a 2 week assignment out in Oklahoma. Getting on a 0900 flight tomorrow morning, so it'll be until 20 June before I get back to verify.

I'll need to look at the manual/wiring schematics and determine what lamp(s) Q57 is responsible for. As far as testing for a short at the lamp socket, given that the lamp sockets use a single wire, how exactly what I test for a short? Not trying to be obtuse; I genuinely do not know the proper procedure to test for a short with a lamp socket that uses a single wire for power. Would I set my DMM to continuity check, put one lead on the wire and the other on the end of the bulb socket?

The lamp sockets have the 5.4VDC braid wire soldered to the base and the colored control wire soldered on the lug - so there are two wires
Measure for a short between the base and the lug on the tip of the socket.
Set your meter to resistance mode - if your meter isn't auto-scaling set it to the 200 ohms range. If the resistance is near zero ohms you have a short. Do this with the power OFF.

Q57 = Bonus 4K lamp

http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Bally_Harlem_Globetrotters_Tech_Chart.pdf

the common way SCR fails is to go open. I am guess the other board already burned open in the past. Is the 4k lamp working on the other board? Inspect the lamp and socket closely. Sometimes the center spring of the lamp socket can fold over onto the barrel when they start breaking and falling apart, so look inside too if nothing is obvious.

YEP! And that socket is beat all to smithereens. You can install a bulb, but the base is NOT stationary...you can take your fingers and rotate it, twist it, turn it - vs the socket being solid as a rock. I wondered why no matter how many different bulbs I put in the socket the light wasn't turning on...

I absolutely believe you. Unfortunately, I am out of town until 20 June, so I can't do a quick visual confirmation. I saw the colored wire on the lug, but I didn't see the braided wire. Is it similar to how DE games wire up their GI lighting? Either way, I am sure it is something I completely overlooked as the AS-2518 games are brand new territory for me and I may not know what to look for yet : ).

Where do I get a new replacement transistor for Q57 (for a Weebly board)? Barak mentioned "C106" but I don't know exactly how to look that up. Is that the same as MCR106-6 over at GPE?

pretty sure it was the std ones from PBL, https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-round-stand-up-targets.html

Interesting issue I had on a game I was diagnosing today... One of the entire columns was not registering on a Bally Lost World. I messed with the switches for a while, then tried just jumping the appropriate switches on the upper right MPU connector. No joy. So I put an Alltek in there, supremely confident that I had traced the issue to the MPU and lo and behold, no joy. I removed the connector and tried jumping the column pin and nothing happened. Oh F. I may have burned up something on my test board. I found a crushed wire that MAY - but not super likely - have come into contact with a GI line but nothing else that looked suspect. I read the DC voltage on each wire on the damaged column and they seemed to be the same as the working switches. I checked out the schematics and replaced the 68xx on U10 and U11 on the old board and still no joy. All the resistors on the old board seemed to be reading the same as they should, what should I be looking at next? The column is the credit / start button, C target and dragons den standup. The start button seems to work and I replaced the diode to be sure but I can't get any of the other switches to register even by shorting the J2 pins on the board.

If you're not aware, barakandl makes the Weebly board.
Just look up C106 on any electronics suppliers site or even ebay. A MCR106 will also work if you have them. They are SCRs aka Thyristors (not to be confused with Transistors!)
FYI Great Plains is shut down with no hard ETA on when he's re-opening.
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/

The ones that come in a 100 pack white box, 10x10 shaped with the cardboard dividers? I had the similar experience the last time I used them. Some how my dad's bow and arrow has incandescent bulbs still working from possibly the 70s yet the ones I put into BSD where burning out and blackening after a year or so of home use. I think the Eiko ones are a little better, but forget it. The warm white LEDs now-a-days can look really good. Specially if they have smoothing capacitor in them for GI or they get run on DC, no 120hz flickers.

I am using surface mount SCRs and MOSFETs now, but I still put the drill holes on the board so a through hole type can be used. Here is a tip so you don't need to do any desoldering....

If you carefully cut off the two legs of the surface C106 SCR (or MOSFET), then it is electrically isolated and you can safely leave the surface mount tab soldered to the board and install the new through hole part.

https://lcsc.com/products/TRIACs_388.html?keyword=C106
https://lcsc.com/product-detail/TRIACs_KY-C106M_C2831676.html
https://datasheet.lcsc.com/lcsc/2105241634_KY-C106M_C2831676.pdf

They were Eiko.

bummer, i'd hope those eiko would be better than the no-name 100 packs, but sounds like they are the same thing or just as bad. I guess it has been a long while since I bought Eiko 44 / 555s now that I think about it. Still have some new ones floating around somewhere as well as large bags of used incandescent bulbs.

I picked up a set of the legendary (NOS) Bally AID 1 & AID 2 modules a few years ago, reading the bally repair procedures book I know they are not really essential as their are many other ways for troubleshooting, but nevertheless items I had to have!

I wonder if these did get used much back in the day by field techs?

What reminded me of the Bally AID testing programme was the other day with an MPU200 game I accidentally pressed the remote s33 memory clear button on the coin door first then the self test button in that order only to discover the game locked up with a loud hum sound & didn't reboot which I thought must then be an MPU issue.

After reading Andrew's & Quench's comments on another thread explaining exactly this scenario I understood this is normal behaviour, with the Stern programming, this action (& also when you just press s33 anytime while in display, lamp or solenoid test modes) Stern games also enter a similar mode to a Bally where displays goes blank & their is a hum indicating game is in the ready status for the AID module.

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