You can use two separate switches, stacked, as seen below. Available through most parts suppliers.

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The difference is not in the diameter, but in the shape of that metal trapezoidal square outside. And, of course, the Bally version has a Bally logo on it.

Looking for six million man transformer with wiring harness.

New displays from https://nvram.weebly.com/bally-stern-6-digit-display.html

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Your bastardization of colors knows no bounds!

I started using white on all my classic displays because I can just put colored gels on them if I want to change it

I'm only getting a HINT of displays at boot..then they fade away. These same displays worked in a different cab, with all the same boards.

My understanding is that J1-25, 26, 27, and 28 handle all of the display data. I repinned the J1 plug on the MPU but nothing improved.

My P1 display is actually an LED from Pinscore...and ironically it's the only one that's not shown any signs of life. P2/p3/p4 have all shown various bits of data (only a segment or two) before fading away. What's my next step?

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That one will be working off a different power I source, I believe. Meaning, not the High Voltage that the Plasmas are reacting to.

Sure, I get that, but I'd think that would be the one I'd be far more likely to have working and I'm just not getting anywhere.

It sounds like your high voltage for displays may be low. Measure the high voltage on the solenoid driver board. Test point TP2 should measure around 175VDC and TP4 should measure around 230VDC.

I'll measure some voltages tomorrow. I've got a brand new rectifier board installed and behavior stays the same with an alltek SDB.

Interestingly enough, if I remove the pinscore LED display, I at least get some data....even if it's not great.

Check that the displays are getting an effective ground connection.

For my own sanity's sake I swapped everything back over to my original cab again. All the displays, including the pinscore, are just fine. P4 needs some repairs but it lights up nice and bright and I can make out the data okay. Same boards, same displays. I didn't swap the rec board/transformer so this test isn't a TRUE apples to apples I guess.... I can do that tomorrow if I need to.

But the original cab has had nothing repinned while the new one has had J1 on the MPU, J1 and J4 on the SDB, and all three plugs on the rectifier board (as well as the board itself replaced) repinned. Displays are still dim (and don't work AT ALL if the pinscore LED is plugged in) and the data looks like jibberish.

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I also forgot to measure voltage before swapping things, so.. that's a bummer. I just can't think of what more I'd need to repin in order to fix it. Maybe the display plugs themselves?

Yes. I had a display that was behaving badly and during re-pinning saw that one original pin was fractured. This was the fix.

I'm completely at a loss on the displays for this Galaxy cab. The other Galaxy cab has had basically nothing repinned. I've tried the same boards (including transformer and rectifier board) and displays and it all works FINE in the other cab. The other cab even works with a terrible condition original rectifier board, with the same displays and boards in the head, with Allteks, etc.

Nothing I do gets me bright, garbage-free displays in my second cab. I've repinned J1 on the MPU as well as all three at rectifier board and J1 on the SDB. I repinned the first display today (tracing wires seemed to indicate that's where the signal came in from the mpu -- correct me if I'm wrong). I've verified all connections at various plugs between the two cabs, all looks correct. I've tried Alltek boards in place of both the mpu and SDB. Grounds all look good, comparing the two cabs.

Nothing I do brightens my displays in the second cab, or eliminates garbage in them. But if I move EVERYTHING back over to the original cab, it all works just fine. If I plug in ONLY the P1 display i repinned, the issue persists. If i plug in ONLY P2 with the P1 plug, same thing. So, WHICH display or HOW many displays doesn't matter in the second cab. What do I try next?

This really smells like a grounding problem to me. If you're moving everything back and forth and the problem stays in the cab and doesn't follow the boards/displays/connections, one thing different between the two cabs is the grounding braid in the lower cab and in the head. And they get nasty over the years. Perhaps you've already done this, but I'd do a point to point continuity check all along the grounding braid from the lower cab to up inside the backbox. I've even troubleshot issues on location and found examples of folks forgetting to tie the end of the lower cab grounding braid to the braid in the backbox after reassembling the pin from transport.

Continuity is good from the braid in the cabinet to the head at multiple points (including the metal backing behind the boards). I thought maybe this nasty looking hack could be something until I looked at the other cab and it's just as bad. I'm stumped.

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8 months later, still going strong at work. It's on every single day and has not skipped a beat.

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I've got an X's & O's project that was not booting into attract mode, GI would come on and the displays were garbled. Replaced the MPU with a new Weebly and it now goes into attract and the displays are fine. Solenoids work in the coil test and I found 1 switch that doesn't register in switch test.

When I push the credit/start button the knocker goes off and it appears to be in a game but if I press either flipper button the game resets though the flipper coils don't fire. Would appreciate any tips for things to look for to get the game running. I have a working driver board from an 84 Eight ball deluxe, is it ok to swap boards to see if that fixes anything? Thanks.

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yes, swap them ok.

Thanks Jethro.

Swapped boards today. The only thing that changed is now the flippers will fire when I press the flipper buttons but the game still resets right after. The ball is not ejected to the shooter lane but it does work in solenoid test. Also getting resets if I remove the ball from the trough. I've tried hitting some switches after pressing the credit button but the scoring seems off, not giving the right amount of points, pop bumpers give points but don't fire.

So here's what I've done so far since I got the game. New power cord, checked fuses, installed new mpu and refurbished driver board. Are there some other things I can try or look for to narrow down the issue? First time working on a solid state game and I have lots to learn ha.

Something is wrong with the solenoid voltage supply. I had a problem with a poor solder connection where the transformer wire connected to rectifier board. Maybe a cold solder somewhere else. Make sure the fuse holder is clean and tight. Many people re-pin all the connector contacts due to poor connection. Spray Deoxit contact cleaner inside all harness connectors and it will improve reliability of game if you do not repin all the harness contacts.

Anyone fool about with a subwoofer and mid-range speaker on a Bally or Stern game?

I tried to connect an external sub with alligator clips, epic fail. I did purchase a Pinball Pro cabinet sub and it’s been great. I have the NB2 board, so I needed a decent speaker to work with the custom music.

https://pinballpro.net/shop/early-bally-williams-games-subwoofer/

If a switch matrix issue makes the computer think the slam switch gets closed, the game reboots.

Let solenoid test eject the ball and raise up any drop targets. Once all switches are open, use switch test to check each switch figure out what rows/columns are acting up. Also take note if any coils fire out of order during solenoid test.

I don't have any speaker at the moment, hence my question.

Thank you both for the helpful info, gives me a good place to start. I do wonder if it's a switch matrix issue, I've found several cut capacitors on stand up targets that I'll replace. Went through the tests again and here's what I found- The solenoid test runs from 01 to 25. 09-16 are activated in test. The manual lists 9 coils 01-09 and all solenoids listed except for the lockout coil will activate. When the coils fire they are out of order compared to the manual.

Instead of this order listed in the manual F5B13AAD-2C47-45DF-8E87-A003B23ACEFB (resized).jpegI get this order of coils firing-
Outhole
Top bumper
Right bumper
Left bumper
Drop target reset
Saucer
Flippers
Knocker

In switch test I found one playfield rollover switch that isn't registering and I also couldn't get the ball tilt to register but I'm not sure if it's supposed to in the switch test. Every switch except the non working one displays the correct number when activated. Would replacing all capacitors be the next best step to take? Thanks again.

Edit: If I activate the slam tilt switch by the tilt bob it causes the top pop bumper to fire so this is definitely a switch matrix issue? Any tips for figuring out how to fix this? Also of note, on power up the bottom pop bumper does a weak pulse, not a full pull down of the rod and ring but a very weak one.

If all the switches show up as correct but a solenoid fires wrong (tilt) or out of order it sounds like a bad address line from the MPU to the solenoid driver card. Most likely a broken wire showing up as a 0 when sometimes it should be a 1.

Coils firing out of order is almost always means you are losing a solenoid bit between MPU J4 and driver J4 connectors. Extremely common issue. Battery damage wasted MPU J4 and single sided driver boards without plated drill holes get cracked solder joints more often than other boards.

Thanks a lot! I'm using a new weebly board which has helped a lot, wasn't getting any life out of the old board that had some battery damage. I did look closer at the connections and forgot I was having trouble with the J2 mpu connector when I swapped boards, for some reason I can't slide it all the way on to the pins. All the others went on fine. I tested it on the original mpu again and it goes on fine. Is there something I'm missing, thought maybe there was a broken pin or something jammed in the connector but I'm not seeing it. This is as far as it will go, feels like if I push any harder it will break something.91F57D6E-6F08-4ADD-838D-C1F18457C87A (resized).jpegE00DBFE9-F2A5-41B3-9728-32E578D81DCE (resized).jpeg

Thanks for this info!

The IDC connector pins might be mangled or something. Give a look inside the housing, it should mate more than that even though they are the long length headers.

Thank you. After playing around with it I've found its the third slot from the top that won't accept the male connector. I can't really see what is blocking it so is it possible to remove this pin to get a better look at it? Will start a new thread after this so I don't clog up this one. Thanks for all your help.

Replace it with crimp on molex kk series. Probably no fixing the idc connector but on some you can replace a single pin with a crimp style. Depends on the idc housing.

Has anyone assembled a Wolffpac display?
What do you think?

I agree. Great price, easy to assemble and they look fantastic

Hello all!
I'm selling some original Bally displays if anyone is interested!
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/135068

Should/can I convert my 1977 Bally Eight Ball flippers to the later linear style?

-54 rectifier kit coming soon. Not sure yet if I want to offer them assembled.

I realized 1.6mm pcb thickness + bridge thickness was nearly perfect match to the height of the stand offs. That let's you use the big hunk of mounting bracket metal as a heat sink without flexing the board to reach or changing stand offs.

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No. All the parts are more expensive the moving mass is higher so they don't flip as quickly. The linear design IMO was introduced because the flippers last a long time on location without operator intervention.

But. Those Tap Passes. So sweet.

Which are still doable with the earlier style parts... people have zero problems doing it on Paragon for sure. I'm not sure what you'd use a tap pass on 8 ball for I guess for the spinner if it were lit. You wouldn't do it right to left I'd think too risky with the flipper up against the sling.

I have had them both and the linears just do it better. Mostly for the reason you outlined above : mass.

If I may suggest, add the fuse legends to the silkscreen - i.e. Playfield G.I., Backbox G.I., Solenoid, Switched Lamps, Logic, High Voltage or however you want to term them.

Games with multiple flippers use a 7amp fuse instead of 5. I know there isn’t that much room on the board but it would be nice if that could be made clear somewhere. Just a suggestion. barakandl I Would be your first customer for an un assembled board!

I'd buy that for a dollar(s)!

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Hello everyone!

I bought a project Paragon and it dies when I press the left flipper button. Please bear with me as I'm very new to the hobby and perhaps bit off a little more than I can chew.

If I'm reading this page (https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Reset_Circuit) correctly it looks like I'm likely triggering the reset circuit because the +12 Volts is dropping below 8.2/9.1 volts.

Guess:
I either have faulty diodes or the coil on one or both are bad.

What I've done so far:
I have a DMM but I'm very sorry to say I don't really understand what I'm doing here. I put it on the diode reading and tested each diode and the meter quickly would down to zero for all diodes--the left side and the right side both did the same thing and the right side is functioning "correctly" (meaning the game doesn't reset when the right flippers are pressed).

Some additional details worth mentioning:

• when the left flipper was briefly working it wouldn't stay up when the button was held. I checked the EOS switch but it looks the same as the others to me, separating when it is roughly at 75-80%.
• the upper left flipper is completely off the link. This is because the coil sleeve seems pinched and the plunger will not go all the way up and down smoothly and I suspect it was getting stuck up. Part of me wonders if someone figured it as the culprit (as I do now) and took it apart

Next move, if this makes sense...
Replace the upper left flipper coil.

I read through this thread: (corrosion damage on the MPU)
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/paragon-dies-after-i-flip

and this thread: (the MPU matrix wires were getting mixed up with the flipper wires on the solenoid board?)
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-paragon-resets-with-right-flipper-why

but I don't think either of these apply to my particular problem. Why? Because while this behavior is exactly how the pin was described by the person who sold it to me the game *did* seem to work for a very brief period (3 minutes) before exhibiting this behavior. Besides, the second "fix" seems more like a hack than understanding the core problem.

You can't test the diodes when they're still connected to the coil. That's because the coil windings are essentially short circuits across the diodes and will give you false readings. The only way to test those diodes is to disconnect at least one leg from the coil to isolate the diode.

When you set your multi-meter to DC voltage, what do you measure on the MPU board at test point TP2?

The solenoid fuse changed a lot. 5a, 5a slow, 6a. 7a. Not that it makes it right, I have had a 5a fast fuse in my Big Game with four flippers for probably like 5-6 years and it has never blown. I thought there was a schematic that called out 5a SB and 6a, but I can't seem to find it.

Slow blow seems right for spikey load like coils. I might go with 5a slow and the note about 6a for three flippers and 7a for four flippers. If the bridge shorts it will still obliterate a SB fuse pretty much instantly.

Got that added. Silk screen and mounting holes seem to trip me up more often than anything else.

thanks for the tips. I just ordered a bunch of molex connector parts and boards.
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