(Topic ID: 85292)

Bally/Stern AS-2518 Club !


By mof

5 years ago



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  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Joydivision
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There are 1673 posts in this topic. You are on page 6 of 34.
#251 4 years ago

Does anyone have a pic of the J1 connector on the rectifier board of a Stars era machine? I was changing the plastic plug and wasn't paying attention and disconnected the four wires without putting them in the new connector. Very stupid.

#252 4 years ago

As an FYI...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fireball-ii-club-members-only/page/3#post-2721338

I came up with a way to tame the flashing/flickering you get on the following games if you use LEDs in the GI:

Centaur
Centaur II
Elektra
Fireball II
Gold Ball
Mr And Mrs Pac Man
Spectrum
Vector

I ended up picking up an electrolytic capacitor variety pack from Amazon for $13.99 because I kept finding the need to replace various old caps on pinball boards, so I had quite a few different values to try.

amazon.com link »

My advice if you want to try this is to start at 4.7uF, and then add smaller values in parallel to the 4.7uF (try 1uF or 2.2uF) until the effect is more subtle. For me, the magic value was 6.9uF, which is a 4.7uF and 2.2uF in parallel. If you happen to have a 6.8uF laying around (I didn't), it will probably do the job without having to resort to combinations of caps.

If you just wanted to go for the gusto, and get the exact values I used, you can get them for a total of $0.45 plus shipping from Great Plains.

#253 4 years ago

Looking to add a Mata Hari to my small collection and am looking for a little info. I found one local to me but I feel the guy is a little over priced for the work it needs. From what I saw at inspection, it needed:

1. Boards had corrosion.
2. Play field wear on the left slingshot
3. Missing drop targets
4. Backglass and right side GI were out
5. Spotty score displays
6. Would not boot unless you hit the start button repeatedly
7. Chipped and cracked pop bumper skirts
8. The expected missing and cracked rubbers

The pros were a near perfect backglass, clean cabinet and the rest of the play field is pretty clean. I like players condition games and original cabinets. The flippers felt good and same with the pop bumpers. I'm ok with rebuilding those anyways of needed. I'm not really into restoring cabinets because I like the original wear and tear.

I guess what my question is, is what would be a good price for the pin? I do not have pictures but based of the info I gave, can you help me with a estimated value to purchase this at?

#254 4 years ago

400 maybe???????

#255 4 years ago

I joined the club recently, Centaur a few months ago and my second, Space Invaders, just yesterday. Shopping/refurbing both right now.

Can someone tell me if the five fuses on the Centaur AS-2518-54 Power Module (the board notes 4a, 20a, 5a, 3/4a, and 20a) should be slow or fast blow?

And on early Bally SS models with the older pop bumper design, is there an easy way to swap in new rod & ring assemblies? It looks to me like the lamp socket has to be removed so that the body can be removed so that the ring can be removed. Poor design on Bally's part, if this is what's necessary.

#256 4 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

And on early Bally SS models with the older pop bumper design, is there an easy to swap in new rod & ring assemblies? It looks to me like the lamp socket has to be removed so that the body can be removed so that the ring can be removed. Poor design on Bally's part, if this is what's necessary.

Unfortunately that's how most pop bumpers are. At least most of the ones I've done. Really is an awful design when those lamp sockets are connected in the way they are.

#257 4 years ago

I added 2 more Bally grails this weekend, Medusa and Skateball. Eventually I'd love to have a little Bally museum in the back of a coffee shop.

#258 4 years ago

I'm the new proud owner of a Paragon. Love this game! Don't see it leaving the collection anytime soon.

1 week later
#259 3 years ago

Looking for ideas to a recent problem with... (of course)... Fathom.
-mof

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fathom-resets-game-after-ball-crosses-a-lane

#260 3 years ago

Added a Bally Fireball II and a Stern Nugent about a month ago. Just got the Fireball working recently. Nugent after I take a breather of sorts. Really liking the FireBall II..........

#261 3 years ago

Guys, I am ordering a bunch of parts to refresh my Centaur and Space Invaders and one thing I'll be replacing is most of the coil stops. According to the manuals, there are different parts numbers for almost every stop (outhole kicker, slingshot, flippers, single drop target, ball kickers on Centaur), some of which are cross referenced with other part numbers, and they basically all look the same to my eyes. I also see them listed from 3.95 to 7 bucks for the same part. You guys you have been through this before, what's the most common-to-all-assemblies coil stop I can get for 1980+ Ballys at the best price? I'm thinking it's this one - http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-613-115

#262 3 years ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Guys, I am ordering a bunch of parts to refresh my Centaur and Space Invaders and one thing I'll be replacing is most of the coil stops. According to the manuals, there are different parts numbers for almost every stop (outhole kicker, slingshot, flippers, single drop target, ball kickers on Centaur), some of which are cross referenced with other part numbers, and they basically all look the same to my eyes. I also see them listed from 3.95 to 7 bucks for the same part. You guys you have been through this before, what's the most common-to-all-assemblies coil stop I can get for 1980+ Ballys at the best price? I'm thinking it's this one - http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-613-115

The flippers get the most wear and are most likely to need rebuilding. The rest of the units you mention could probably use coil sleeves and shouldn't need much more than that. The coil stops in the outhole kicker and drop targets could probably pass for NOS with a bit of cleaning.

#263 3 years ago

How do you "clear the RAM" on a 2518 ?

thanks,
mof

1 month later
#264 3 years ago
Quoted from mof:

My Fathom has a hinge for the PF to rest/rotate in.
What's the best way to keep the PF nearly upright while in the hinge?
Not having a solution, I've been wrapping a cord around the head and held-up PF. I'm not a big fan of this workaround.
-mof

I noticed that there is another pivot point further down the cabinet, that would allow you to raise the playfield and lean it against the backbox without needing to "tie" it back. How you actually get the playfield out onto that other pivot point without a second person, I've not figured out yet.

1 week later
#265 3 years ago
Quoted from dmbjunky:

Does anyone have a pic of the J1 connector on the rectifier board of a Stars era machine? I was changing the plastic plug and wasn't paying attention and disconnected the four wires without putting them in the new connector. Very stupid.

Looking for help with this today. I figured out which wires go where. Red and White go to GI, light blue goes to inserts, and Blue/white goes to flippers. Where would these go in the connector?

These are the diagrams I'm looking at but I'm still unsure how to read this. The schematic is not in the right order unless you go by the numbers in the box. Also with the two wires that go to the GI, which ones are the return and which are the "buss". When looking at a bulb socket, the red wire is attached to the bracket that's screwed to the playfield and the white wire is attached to the socket.

Untitled_(resized).png

2_(resized).png

My first impression is the red or white goes in the first hole and fifth hole. Then the blue/white goes in the 6th hole and the light blue goes in the 7th hole. Thanks.

Edit: I did test the pins on the board.

#266 3 years ago

I'm getting ready to start a new thread.

#267 3 years ago

So is this where my fellow Bally junkies have been hanging out.

#268 3 years ago
Quoted from dmbjunky:

Looking for help with this today. I figured out which wires go where. Red and White go to GI, light blue goes to inserts, and Blue/white goes to flippers. Where would these go in the connector?
These are the diagrams I'm looking at but I'm still unsure how to read this. The schematic is not in the right order unless you go by the numbers in the box. Also with the two wires that go to the GI, which ones are the return and which are the "buss". When looking at a bulb socket, the red wire is attached to the bracket that's screwed to the playfield and the white wire is attached to the socket.
Untitled_(resized).png
2_(resized).png
My first impression is the red or white goes in the first hole and fifth hole. Then the blue/white goes in the 6th hole and the light blue goes in the 7th hole. Thanks.
Edit: I did test the pins on the board.

There's another page in the schematic for all the connectors. It will show the wires in order and each with a two digit number indicating the wire colors. There's a color key at the bottom. That should make it easier for you...

#269 3 years ago

.

2 weeks later
#270 3 years ago

Just joined with a free Mata Hari! Needs a good cleaning and a little work to the boards, but it's in overall great shape.

image_(resized).jpeg

#271 3 years ago

My sound doesnt work on my elektra during the game. Sometimes when it boots up i hear some sound, but thats it. The speech works when I use the inboard test, and the sound works when I used the coin door test menu. Any ideas to why it doesn't work in game?

1 week later
#272 3 years ago

Bumping! Way too long without any discussion in this thread. Was lucky to have the privilege of playing a Mata Hari, Skateball, and really nice Playboy a few weeks ago. Love them classic Ballys!

#273 3 years ago

I may be fixing up a TRS for a friend soon. I actually have some questions about the project and this seems like a great place to ask:

He's got two games and 1 head, along with an additional head from a Stern Pinball. He's got 2 Bally MPUs, both with acid damage, that I'd like someone to take a look at and see if they're repairable. He's got 1 Stern SDU-100 driver board and 1 Stern early TA-100 rectifier/transformer. That's it. I know the SDU-100 should work in the Bally, but will the early TA-100 and rectifier also work? He'll have to get an Alltek lamp driver or something, and we're in need of a -51 Bally sound board too. Would anyone happen to know of any of those that are available?

#274 3 years ago

Pinsider barakandl is a good source....Send him a PM

Do you happen to have an extra set of Rolling Stones sling shot plastics that are in good shape? I have a friend looking for a pair. Since you have two games, thought I would ask.

#275 3 years ago
Quoted from Captive_Ball:

Pinsider barakandl is a good source....Send him a PM
Do you happen to have an extra set of Rolling Stones sling shot plastics that are in good shape? I have a friend looking for a pair. Since you have two games, thought I would ask.

I actually C&P'ed that out of my PM to him.

Waiting for a reply. Not sure what he's going to do with the other game (body only) but everything is in decent shape. One of the sling plastics is broken, though.

#276 3 years ago

Looking for a project AS-2518 in Ohio or Michigan. Anyone have one to sell? Thanks

#277 3 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

One of the sling plastics is broken, though.

Darn, he has the same problem, broken bottom end.

1 week later
#278 3 years ago

i fix / rebuild the sound boards in these games sans the one in xenon.

#279 3 years ago

My Cheap Squeak board fried today(A080-91603-C000). Anyone have the schematic or know where I can find one? Also are there reproduction boards for sound? Can I play without it?

#280 3 years ago
Quoted from Tomahawkjim:

My Cheap Squeak board fried today(A080-91603-C000). Anyone have the schematic or know where I can find one? Also are there reproduction boards for sound? Can I play without it?

ipdb.org

black pyramid

#281 3 years ago

Thanks Barakandl. Can I play without the cheap squeak? I don't see any references to the CPU or anything like that. I don't want to hit the on switch and blow something up...

#282 3 years ago
Quoted from Tomahawkjim:

Thanks Barakandl. Can I play without the cheap squeak? I don't see any references to the CPU or anything like that. I don't want to hit the on switch and blow something up...

yeah that is fine to run the game with no sound board.

What fried on the cheap squeak? Tantalum cap? You can get ceramic caps now-a-days that will work. I think they are 6.8uF and 4.7uF

#283 3 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

What fried on the cheap squeak? Tantalum cap? You can get ceramic caps now-a-days that will work. I think they are 6.8uF and 4.7uF

I believe the failed capacitor was C10. I plan on replacing C22/C17 as well. Are there diodes going from pin 6/14 to ground? The C10 explosion took out the two closes components. I don't see them anywhere in the schematic so I don't know what to replace them with.

Capture_(resized).JPG

#284 3 years ago

Check the component layout sheet. It should be with the black pyramid manual.

Replace all the tantalums on this board. They are prone to exploding violently. I recommend ceramic caps instead of the dipped tantalum.

#285 3 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

I recommend ceramic caps instead of the dipped tantalum.

Can I use ceramic caps where there is polarity called out or should I stick with electrolytic?

#286 3 years ago
Quoted from Tomahawkjim:

Can I use ceramic caps where there is polarity called out or should I stick with electrolytic?

Yes, use ceramic now that values up to 10uf or so are inexpensive and less likely to fail.

#287 3 years ago

Also the diodes don't show up on the components list. Maybe they are shunts?

#288 3 years ago

The diodes i see on a cheap squeak...

D6 is a protection diode if something gets shorted out or voltage running the wrong direction. D7 and D8 are just burning off a little bit of voltage to keep the regulator cooler.

Are you sure they are diodes? Can you tell what designation they are? I have a cheap squeak board on the bench, i can check.

#289 3 years ago

Maybe those zero ohm resistors?

Looks like C10 burned out on this board too at some point.

20160216_195650_(resized).jpg

#290 3 years ago

Maybe they are resistors?

Capture_(resized).PNG

#291 3 years ago

Yes those red things are scorched on mine. On the pin wiki page they are tan and on your board they are red... I don't know what color they are on mine...

#292 3 years ago
Quoted from Tomahawkjim:

Yes those red things are scorched on mine. On the pin wiki page they are tan and on your board they are red... I don't know what color they are on mine...

you can use a bit of wire if you don't have any zero ohm resistors. It is essentially just a little patch wire. Not sure why they are being used... it is a double sided board, might have been an after thought.... It is the "cheap" squeak.

#293 3 years ago

I really love these early bally games.
Kiss started it all, but after i tryed centaur, my love for kiss and paragon died. Now its all about 1980/82 only.

Embryon. Cantaur. Fathom. Flash Gordon. Well in short everything with more then 2 sounds built in

#294 3 years ago

Just traded my dredd for a really nice fg and some cash. Could not be happier!! Will post photos later

#295 3 years ago

A few days ago, a Black Pyramid kinda fell into my lap, as part of a package deal. I had never played the game before and didn't think much of it. This weekend, I cleaned and rubbered the thing. After that, some test games of course. Before I knew it, I was playing for 2 hours straight!

What a nice little title this is. Very back to basics in terms of layout, but with a tremendous just-one-more-game-vibe to it. I didn't expect to like a 1984 Bally-Midway title this much.

#296 3 years ago

I have a bp too. I think it's a fun game. Joe

#297 3 years ago

Figure I'll add this here since it's relevant to Classic Bally/Stern machines and may help some people working on these games.

I created another diagnostic tool for Classic Bally/Stern games recently.. for testing solenoid driving circuitry on the Solenoid Driver Board. Some more info over at http://www.pinitech.com/products/ballystern_sdb_tester.php Some of you have probably already seen the Pinside thread on it, but just figured it'd be helpful when I create something new to also get it posted in this thread since it's specifically for us Classic Bally/Stern lovers

I don't know why I've done so much test equipment around Bally/Stern (not *too* popular even as far as test equipment goes). I think because they're the first machines I started fixing up when I got into the hobby.. and I certainly have plenty of boards sitting I need to fix up. Many of the games are pretty cool and still "hold their own" in a collection, even among newer titles. Xenon, Mr & Ms Pac-man, Baby Pacman are some of my favorites. I liked Flight 2000 *enough* too. Haven't had a chance to play a tremendous amount of them.. but there are many neat titles I'd like to play. Including Rapid Fire!

I have a Stern Black Beauty shuffle alley that uses MPU-200 boardset & SB-100 sound board. Interesting in that MPU-200 games normally used the SB-300 sound board. But since it didn't need anything crazy for sounds, they went with the older sound board. I'm going to put some blue led displays in that Should update the look of it quite a bit!

#298 3 years ago

Bunch of Bally playfields up for pre-order

EBD
Xenon
Skateball
Kiss
Mystic

http://www.classicplayfields.com/order.html

#299 3 years ago

Anyone know where I can get a replacement or a good sub for the DAC on a cheap squeak sound board. Part # is ZN429E-8. Thanks in advance.

#300 3 years ago

Glad to see another run of the Bally KISS machine. Mine could use another. Old Ballys rule.............

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