(Topic ID: 85292)

Bally/Stern AS-2518 Club !

By mof

7 years ago


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There are 2,837 posts in this topic. You are on page 56 of 57.
#2751 44 days ago
Quoted from steve-o:

Wow.. This must be "Help with my Bally soundboard" Thursday.
Patient: Future Spa
Issue: No sounds with any setting. (there is the electrical sound of the cycling displays and controlled lighting)
The U1 chip gets insanely hot.
History: Bought machine as a non-working project with unknown condition of PCBs.
Actions taken: Tried all setting combinations. New cap kit installed. Reflowed/checked all solder connections. Tested U2 and U3 on other later sound boards and verified working. Bought new U1 (AY3891) and the new chip does not get hot. Swapped the 1k pot on the PCB. ...still no sound.
I'm curious if it's as simple as a bad U4 sound ROM, but no way to test here and if it comes down to buying a replacement- I'll just buy a NVRAM.WEEBLY replacement on eBay for $100.
Voltages:
TP1 13.9vdc (+12v)
TP2 5.15vdc (+5v)
TP3 .040vdc (GND)
TP4 .057vdc
TP5 2.55vdc
TP6 .040vdc
Any advice much appreciated!
Steveo
[quoted image]

Verify your speaker is working / properly wired. The .156 connectors on the board often need solder reflowed as well.

#2752 44 days ago
Quoted from RoyGBev:

Look at this: A knocker (correct) and an early sound board

The wiring to the knocker isn't factory. You can see someone's run cables for it. Am guessing the head is from a Playboy (which has that sound board) because of the white paint.

#2753 44 days ago

Never mind....

#2754 44 days ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Verify your speaker is working / properly wired. The .156 connectors on the board often need solder reflowed as well.

Thanks Chalkey. I appreciate it. Speaker verified working/wired and all male connectors reflowed. I’m leaning towards abandoning and just replacing.

#2755 44 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

The wiring to the knocker isn't factory. You can see someone's run cables for it. Am guessing the head is from a Playboy (which has that sound board) because of the white paint.

Yeah didn't notice about the knocker. Couldn't the head also be 6M$M, Voltan(!), Kiss, Harlem or Dolly?

I tried to match the text on the adjustment cards stapled in the backbox with pics from ipdb. It does look like the Eight Ball cards but I'm not sure.

#2756 44 days ago
Quoted from RoyGBev:

I've seen this symptom on several of those boards when U3 (the PROM) is bad.

U3 is soldered to the board. Is there any way to check this?

#2757 44 days ago
Quoted from JethroP:

U3 is soldered to the board. Is there any way to check this?

With a logic probe and schematic you can check that the PROM's data pins are correct for different values at the address pins. Playing sounds should make the data pin values change. The address table for the PROM is available. The PROM itself is no longer available but an adapter and EPROM equivalent are available.

#2758 44 days ago
Quoted from RoyGBev:

Yeah didn't notice about the knocker. Couldn't the head also be 6M$M, Voltan(!), Kiss, Harlem or Dolly?
I tried to match the text on the adjustment cards stapled in the backbox with pics from ipdb. It does look like the Eight Ball cards but I'm not sure.

What are the numbers in the lower right corner of the cards/labels in the backbox?
For Eightball it should be M-469-991-4 for example.
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/cards/Used_cards/Bally_Eight_Ball_M-469-991-4_Recommended_settings.jpg

#2759 44 days ago
Quoted from Thunfisch:

Here's my attempt to nine him out. No fake (glass installed) but must admit I tilted him.
[quoted image]

f*ck ! lol
and of course i've tilted mine too, else you wont have enough with 1 live to score something (near) perfect like that

#2760 44 days ago

On my Mata Hari, my game wouldnt boot, I swapped the board for a new alltek.
Game works.

On the old board I replaced c23 and c26 and the high voltage regulator.
I swap the solenoids boards and the machine boots now..... but the coils arent firing. No opening melody and nothing when pushing start. Game starts but no coils. Almost like the relay on the solenoid board isnt engaging during boot up.

Put the alltek back and game is fine.

What am I missing here?

#2761 44 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

like the relay on the solenoid board

The relay is only in charge of the flipper fingers, not of any other coil.

Did you already resolder the connector pins?

#2762 44 days ago
Quoted from Thunfisch:

Did you already resolder the connector pins?

Yeah I was just double checking all of the pins to make sure they were good.

I just swapped again and with the alltek you hear the relay on the board click but it’s not doing that on the original now.
Just to add some clues.

#2763 43 days ago

Hello All,

Last call for my Seawitch S Ball defector. I have 3 left and have no plans to do another run. This 100% keeps the ball from getting stuck on top of the upper left flipper plastic and looks good too. Each defector comes with 3 nylon nuts for mounting. $35 and free shipping in the US. PM me if you want one of them. I have 2 blue and 1 light blue.

20210831_185811 (resized).jpg20210921_201328 (resized).jpg
#2764 42 days ago

Follow up to my Future Spa sound issue.
--Success!--
I was looking closer at the game schematics and noticed that the listed 6820 chip located at U2 was incorrectly populated. I swapped in a 6820 (pulled the 620-29) and we're finally back in business.
~Steveo

Crank the volume. Game on:

6820 FTW.JPG

#2765 41 days ago
Quoted from steve-o:

Follow up to my Future Spa sound issue.
--Success!--
I was looking closer to game schematics and noticed that the listed 6820 chip located at U2 was incorrectly populated. I swapped in a 6820 (pulled the 620-29) and we're finally back in business.
~Steveo
Crank the volume. Game on:
[quoted image]

Your FutureSpa has a background song? Mine has that horrible background buzz.

#2766 41 days ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

Your FutureSpa has a background song? Mine has that horrible background buzz.

I’m curious about this too. No music for me either.

#2767 41 days ago

Future Spa just plays a warbling spaceship type sound in the background that increases in pitch, there's no songs in the sound ROM.

"Are Friends Electric" is an awesome track though

#2768 41 days ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

Your FutureSpa has a background song? Mine has that horrible background buzz.

Quoted from Spunky1562:

I’m curious about this too. No music for me either.

Yeah. It’s my home mod. MP3 Trigger with two songs on a MicroSD card, audio amp, 12V splitter, two new switches (one at the ball launch and the other just before the outhole) a pair of speakers in the cabinet and some light gauge wiring. I like it better than the factory background sound.

#2769 41 days ago
Quoted from steve-o:

two new switches (one at the ball launch and the other just before the outhole)

Cool mod. I've installed sound triggers on EM machines, but never on a SS machine. So you installed new switches? Any chance you can show a picture of how you mounted them?

#2770 41 days ago
Quoted from JethroP:

Cool mod. I've installed sound triggers on EM machines, but never on a SS machine. So you installed new switches? Any chance you can show a picture of how you mounted them?

The SparkFun MP3 Trigger is programmed to a momentary contact to begin playing the MP3 song. This is why I couldn't use existing switches. Here's some pics of the final switch locations.

2 new switches.jpgend of ball song.jpggameplay song.jpg
#2771 41 days ago
Quoted from steve-o:

Here's some pics of the final switch locations.

Nice work! Thank you.

#2772 39 days ago

Are there supposed to be diodes on the tilt bobs? The schematics show a diode, but neither of my Ballys has one. Is the theory that once you tilt, it's over anyway, so no risk of phantom switch hits?

#2773 39 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Are there supposed to be diodes on the tilt bobs? The schematics show a diode, but neither of my Ballys has one. Is the theory that once you tilt, it's over anyway, so no risk of phantom switch hits?

The tilt bob has a diode it shares with tilt roll cage.

#2774 39 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

The tilt bob has a diode it shares with tilt roll cage.

Ah. Thank you. See it now.

#2775 37 days ago

Power Module -54 fuse F2, the 3/4 amp one -- should this be slow blow or fast blow? I see references to both. This will be for both a Xenon and a Centaur.

#2776 37 days ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Power Module -54 fuse F2, the 3/4 amp one -- should this be slow blow or fast blow? I see references to both. This will be for both a Xenon and a Centaur.

F2 should be a "fast blow" 3/4 Amp fuse.
The slow blows used is probably part of the reason so many high voltage circuits blow out on the solenoid driver board while that fuse remains intact.
The F2 change to fast blow was first documented from Dolly Parton onwards and should be used on all early Bally/Sterns for good measure.

#2777 37 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

F2 should be a "fast blow" 3/4 Amp fuse.
The slow blows used is probably part of the reason so many high voltage circuits blow out on the solenoid driver board while that fuse remains intact.
The F2 change to fast blow was first documented from Dolly Parton onwards and should be used on all early Bally/Sterns for good measure.

Thanks Quench. I got a brand new -54 board recently that came with new fuses installed, and the 3/4 was a slo-blo. I see a lot of Bally fuse kits for sale with the 3/4 as a slo-blo too. Even some tech/repair sites call for slo-blo. Very confusing. Was this change documented in Bally literature?

#2778 37 days ago
Quoted from jibmums:

I even got a brand new -54 board recently that came with new fuses installed, and the 3/4 was a slo-blo.

Yeah, that's a mistake on their part. No games with -54 rectifier boards list a slow blow at fuse F2. Seems to have been a common incorrect assumption because earlier -18 rectifier boards had a slow blow fuse.
Funny thing is the first two Bally games had a 5 Amp slow blow fuse spec'd at F2 - ouch!

#2779 37 days ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Was this change documented in Bally literature?

Not called out specifically but in the manuals they just went from saying "SB" to not.

#2780 37 days ago
Quoted from jibmums:

Was this change documented in Bally literature?

Click the image to zoom in on the revision history.

DollyParton_RectifierBoard_schematic.png

#2781 36 days ago

I need a new outhole switch and assembly for Paragon. I can't seem to find them on Marco or Pinballlife's websites. Does anyone know the part number or where to get them?

Am I better off just getting a Cherry Microswitch and bending it to suit the need?

Thanks.

#2782 36 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I need a new outhole switch and assembly for Paragon. I can't seem to find them on Marco or Pinballlife's websites. Does anyone know the part number or where to get them?
Am I better off just getting a Cherry Microswitch and bending it to suit the need?
Thanks.

Hard to see in the online PPS catalog but looks like the wire is ASE 2806-21 and the rollover switch itself is a pretty standard longer bladed switch.

#2783 36 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

Hard to see in the online PPS catalog but looks like the wire is ASE 2806-21 and the rollover switch itself is a pretty standard longer bladed switch.

Thanks, where did you see that? I couldn’t find it in the parts catalog. Did it have the number for the bracket as well?

I’m not sure anyplace sells these anymore. Have people used those Cherry micro switches when refurbishing games? Any issues with them?

#2784 35 days ago

The outhole switch is a common leaf switch.

#2785 35 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

Hard to see in the online PPS catalog but looks like the wire is ASE 2806-21 and the rollover switch itself is a pretty standard longer bladed switch.

I see where you’re looking now. I was looking at the smaller of the two 1979 parts catalogs.

Quoted from gdonovan:

The outhole switch is a common leaf switch.

I’m more concerned about the bracket and actuator arm. Mine are sticking and bent out of shape.

I’m still thinking about getting a Cherry microswitch to use.

#2786 35 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I’m still thinking about getting a Cherry microswitch to use

That would work fine IMO, there's no overwhelming reason to HAVE to use the original parts. The outholes' wireforms and switches seem to get mangled a lot because I'm sure a lot of people rest the playfield on the lockdown bar receiver and sometimes rest it too far forward. (I think that might be a reason to have some of the 'pegs' on the bottom, possibly, to give a rest point. Not as large as they ended up being on the stern games with them though.

2 weeks later
#2787 20 days ago

Anyone have a scan of a Bally shooter gauge? The one on my Centaur is mangled so I'm going to try and make a stencil and paint one. The donor unit is all rusted of course.

#2788 20 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Anyone have a scan of a Bally shooter gauge? The one on my Centaur is mangled so I'm going to try and make a stencil and paint one. The donor unit is all rusted of course.

Did the below for a Xenon a few years ago. The black/red/white one is very likely from a Centaur.
ShooterRodApron_Scan_Xenon.jpgXenon_ShooterRodApron3_600DPI.png

#2789 20 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

Did the below for a Xenon a few years ago. The black/red/white one is very likely from a Centaur.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Perfect! Just saved me an hour or two of work.

#2790 20 days ago

Parts - Wanted
Wanted! “Looking for an apron and shooter gauge decal set for a 1984 Eight Ball Deluxe. It is the black apron with red trim marked "Bally Midway" in the left hand corner. Would also consi...”
38 days ago
Jarrettsville, MD
Wanted

I finding out that these are not exactly common as dirt.

#2791 20 days ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

I finding out that these are not exactly common as dirt.

Agreed. I did a restoration on my '84 EBD but had to stop short on the apron and shooter gauge after months of looking around for a repro apron or decal set came up dry. Fortunately my set has only a few blemishes and is passable, but I'd love to make it look like new again if given the opportunity. If you come across someone who does apron decals for the '84, I'd be in, too!

IMG_8625 (resized).JPG
#2792 20 days ago

The shooter gauge I could help you out with a stencil, the apron a different story though.

I'll be working on the stencil tonight, my Centaur's is mangled.

#2793 20 days ago

Audio question for the gang:
After reassembling my xenon I seemed to have lost volume. It’s about half as loud as before.
I thought it was because of the replacement speakers so I swapped the originals.
I tried adjusting the 1k pot on the board to see if I might have lowered the volume there by accident but all that did is made things sound worse.

I changed the volume pot on the board and now that adjusts smoothly but there’s no improvement. The pot in the coin door is new as well.

Where should I start on trouble shooting low volume? Any thing I should measure or consider replacing?

#2794 20 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Audio question for the gang:
After reassembling my xenon I seemed to have lost volume. It’s about half as loud as before.
I thought it was because of the replacement speakers so I swapped the originals.
I tried adjusting the 1k pot on the board to see if I might have lowered the volume there by accident but all that did is made things sound worse.
I changed the volume pot on the board and now that adjusts smoothly but there’s no improvement. The pot in the coin door is new as well.
Where should I start on trouble shooting low volume? Any thing I should measure or consider replacing?

Is your sound quality fine, just low? If so it implies the amplifier circuit is the issue. Are all board voltages what they should be?

#2795 20 days ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

Is your sound quality fine, just low? If so it implies the amplifier circuit is the issue. Are all board voltages what they should be?

Yeah sounds fine, its just low. I'll double check the voltages. The amp looks to be a replacement from before I got the game. Im going to double check the solder points anywhere a trace leads to and from the amp.

Thanks

#2796 19 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Yeah sounds fine, its just low. I'll double check the voltages. The amp looks to be a replacement from before I got the game. Im going to double check the solder points anywhere a trace leads to and from the amp.
Thanks

Update on voltages
TP1 = 15.4 DC 33 AC (schematic says 11.9DC 0.1 AC)
TP2 = 4.9 DC = OK
TP3 = 0.11 DC 0.01 AC (not sure what it should be, looks like it’s ground but when I do a continuity test on anything grounded the meter makes a distorted pulsating sound, only on TP3 no where else in the game)
TP4 = bounces between 0.19 to 0.33 DC (schematics say 2.5 DC with sound I tested during game)
TP5 = 2.5 DC = OK
TP6 = .33 AC = OK

Also during attract I get a high frequency sound when the high score is displayed
Just a quick EEEEEP ———— EEEEEP ———— EEEEEP as the displays change from last game to high score.

#2797 19 days ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Update on voltages
TP1 = 15.4 DC 33 AC (schematic says 11.9DC 0.1 AC)
TP2 = 4.9 DC = OK
TP3 = 0.11 DC 0.01 AC (not sure what it should be, looks like it’s ground but when I do a continuity test on anything grounded the meter makes a distorted pulsating sound, only on TP3 no where else in the game)
TP4 = bounces between 0.19 to 0.33 DC (schematics say 2.5 DC with sound I tested during game)
TP5 = 2.5 DC = OK
TP6 = .33 AC = OK
Also during attract I get a high frequency sound when the high score is displayed
Just a quick EEEEEP ———— EEEEEP ———— EEEEEP as the displays change from last game to high score.

Also when I removed the vocal board my ground tests normal and I get the correct voltage on TP4.
TP1 is still testing high.
Plug the vocal board back in and I get wonky reads and a funky ground.
I’m ordering the cap kits for both boards for good measure but it seems like there’s a grounding issue on the vocal board. Any thoughts?

#2798 19 days ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Agreed. I did a restoration on my '84 EBD but had to stop short on the apron and shooter gauge after months of looking around for a repro apron or decal set came up dry. Fortunately my set has only a few blemishes and is passable, but I'd love to make it look like new again if given the opportunity. If you come across someone who does apron decals for the '84, I'd be in, too!

Your apron looks good, is it from a Paragon? The '84 apron is black with red trim, but it says "Bally/Midway" instead of Bally Pinball Division.

#2799 19 days ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Agreed. I did a restoration on my '84 EBD but had to stop short on the apron and shooter gauge after months of looking around for a repro apron or decal set came up dry. Fortunately my set has only a few blemishes and is passable, but I'd love to make it look like new again if given the opportunity. If you come across someone who does apron decals for the '84, I'd be in, too![quoted image]

I'm wondering if I can do an apron decal? With those lines it would be tough. I'll have to run my Flash Gordon one though the flatbed and see what I can do with it.

Pictured below, adventures in stencil making.

731f38c95b7f83fffc87e89c5eba325d96b0e562 (resized).jpg

#2800 19 days ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

Your apron looks good, is it from a Paragon? The '84 apron is black with red trim, but it says "Bally/Midway" instead of Bally Pinball Division.

Holy crap....I've had my '84 EBD for over 3 years and did a ground up resto on it last year and I never noticed that. That apron was already on it when I picked up this project and mistakenly assumed it was original. Ha! All the more reason now to find an '84-specific stencil or label kit and redo it!!

And I did have to use the '81 stencil for the cab repaint since no one is making the '84 for that, either (stencil or decal).

IMG_8626 (resized).JPGIMG_8639 (resized).JPGIMG_8640 (resized).JPGIMG_8641 (resized).JPGIMG_8642 (resized).JPGIMG_8643 (resized).JPGIMG_8646 (resized).JPGIMG_8647 (resized).JPGIMG_8651 (resized).JPG
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