(Topic ID: 85292)

Bally/Stern AS-2518 Club !

By mof

7 years ago


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There are 2710 posts in this topic. You are on page 54 of 55.
#2651 77 days ago
Quoted from northvibe:

I've just used the plain ground braid,
https://www.pinballlife.com/flat-tinned-copper-ground-braid-5-feet.html
You in theory could take thick gauge wire, and crimp eyelets and go between the ground points I suppose.

Thanks. The cabinet will likely get a full strip repair and repaint at some point so I may use braid when I do that

#2652 73 days ago

Another classic into the fold.

20210715_193252 (resized).jpg
#2653 71 days ago

Supersonic gets NVRAM on the MPU and the solenoid board gets new caps, grounds tied together and the display voltages set to 170VDC.

Credits added at 10k, 20k and 30k. So there should always be plenty for "freeplay"

20210717_102223 (resized).jpg
#2654 71 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Credits added at 10k, 20k and 30k. So there should always be plenty for "freeplay"

You *need* to install a freeplay ROM

#2655 71 days ago

Fireball gets leds across the board and resistor banks added to the lamp driver board.

20210717_193608_1.gif
#2656 70 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

You *need* to install a freeplay ROM

Agreed. The knock should mean you've accomplished something (or matched). Looks like you're running original PROMS there though, so it will take two programmed 2732s and some re-jumpering of the MPU.

13
#2657 70 days ago
Quoted from RoyGBev:

Agreed. The knock should mean you've accomplished something (or matched). Looks like you're running original PROMS there though, so it will take two programmed 2732s and some re-jumpering of the MPU.

Its going to work for elderly residents to use in the physical therapy room.

I'm good with it just as it is, a game plays when the button is mashed.

20180725_103320 (resized).jpg
#2658 70 days ago

Flattened some warped plastics and repaired some screw holes that were wore out, replaced a missing plastic spacer, added blue leds up top. Light playfield touch up off skill shot chute and then mylar to protect the spot.

Proper mushroom switch on it's way to replace the stand up someone installed in center.

20210718_191835 (resized).jpg

2 weeks later
#2659 56 days ago

Evil Knievel board from a friend of mine. Snipped the battery off and made one pass through acid bath.

Tough shape. At least 2 or 3 sockets and a handful of components before I even think of powering it up and seeing if anyone is home.

20210801_154034 (resized).jpg20210801_154041 (resized).jpg
#2660 56 days ago

That corner. Holy hell..!

#2661 56 days ago

I posted this here and in the Stern Electronics thread in case any of you can help me out with my Trident start up issues

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/trident-blowing-43vdc-fuse-on-start-up

#2662 55 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

That corner. Holy hell..!

Yup tough shape. I'm going to replace the sockets tonight and rummage around my stash to see if I have the other missing parts. Need at least two disc caps. Q5 I'm doubtful, transistor PNP (MPS-3702) but might have something interchangeable.

C13 and C80? Capacitor. should be easy enough. .01 MFD, 25V

#2663 55 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Q5 I'm doubtful, transistor PNP (MPS-3702) but might have something interchangeable.

Q5 spec is a 2N4403, you can probably use any generic PNP bipolar transistor.

#2664 55 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

Q5 spec is a 2N4403, you can probably use any generic PNP bipolar transistor.

I just might have one in my stash, stay tuned for results later if all goes well

#2665 55 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

I just might have one in my stash, stay tuned for results later if all goes well

Repaired a bunch of ground traces and tried booting for the hell of it after pulling ram socket, nothing. A number of traces below the ram socket are just gone. Best case figured I'd get a lit LED that would flash only twice (ram missing) but not even a lit LED. Going to tuck it in the repair pile for a rainy day, going to need much work if ever coming back to life.

#2666 54 days ago

Hey, any idea where I can purchase the shielded ground braid?

image (resized).jpg
#2667 54 days ago

Might be easiest to buy ground braid and toss some heat shrink tubing around it. Would be more secure unless you're going for exact inside the cab look.

#2668 54 days ago
Quoted from statictrance:

Might be easiest to buy ground braid and toss some heat shrink tubing around it. Would be more secure unless you're going for exact inside the cab look.

I thought about using heat shrink, but I was trying to keep the factory look. I’m having a hard time finding shielded ground braid anywhere, so I’ll probably just have to make some.

#2669 54 days ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

Hey, any idea where I can purchase the shielded ground braid?

Are you missing them completely or are they just dirty/beat up? Running them through a dishwasher cycle makes them almost brand new looking. If you want to fashion your own:

Ground Straps (various lengths):
https://www.galco.com/shop/Ground-Straps-Grounding

Yellow Heat Shrink Tubing:
https://www.showmecables.com/81-163-100-yl?gclid=CjwKCAjw0qOIBhBhEiwAyvVcfwRAoNuulRkHX4Hnxlt4FRyf3WhzZniC3ego93_5Hlz2BNhIsDhc1hoChCAQAvD_BwE

#2670 54 days ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Are you missing them completely or are they just dirty/beat up? Running them through a dishwasher cycle makes them almost brand new looking. If you want to fashion your own:
Ground Straps (various lengths):
https://www.galco.com/shop/Ground-Straps-Grounding
Yellow Heat Shrink Tubing:
https://www.showmecables.com/81-163-100-yl?gclid=CjwKCAjw0qOIBhBhEiwAyvVcfwRAoNuulRkHX4Hnxlt4FRyf3WhzZniC3ego93_5Hlz2BNhIsDhc1hoChCAQAvD_BwE

Thanks for the links!

Some of the existing wires are stripped, and some are just gross. I was just going to replace it if it was cheap or easy.

I just purchased some shielded ground braid from Third Coast. Not quite factory, but does the trick.

19
#2671 53 days ago

Wrapped up this Voltan Escapes Cosmic Doom today. Thankfully my dad was around and snapped a lot of photos for me. I think it turned out great. CPR playfield and plastics, I had a custom backglass made but haven’t installed it yet. New coin door skin. All new light sockets and LEDs. All new boards and converted to 7 digit scoring. Cabinet repainted and clearcoated. Not one you see often.

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#2672 53 days ago

Sweet!

Hotdoggin' bombing your photo, too!

#2673 53 days ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Wrapped up this Voltan Escapes Cosmic Doom today. Thankfully my dad was around and snapped a lot of photos for me. I think it turned out great. CPR playfield and plastics, I had a custom backglass made but haven’t installed it yet. New coin door skin. All new light sockets and LEDs. All new boards and converted to 7 digit scoring. Cabinet repainted and clearcoated. Not one you see often.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Wow that looks great. Never seen this game before.

#2674 53 days ago
Quoted from rcbrown316:

Wow that looks great. Never seen this game before.

Really small run, never went into full production is my understanding.

#2675 52 days ago

Strong work Tommy! Looks awesome.

#2676 52 days ago

I am looking for a single Display Bracket to finish up my Skateball. Have 4 of the 5 here...just can't find that last one.

Anybody got a spare I can buy or a tip on someone who stocks them?

Thanks.

#2677 52 days ago
Quoted from guitarded:

I am looking for a single Display Bracket to finish up my Skateball. Have 4 of the 5 here...just can't find that last one.
Anybody got a spare I can buy or a tip on someone who stocks them?
Thanks.

I’ll take a look in my parts stash

#2678 52 days ago
Quoted from guitarded:

I am looking for a single Display Bracket to finish up my Skateball. Have 4 of the 5 here...just can't find that last one.
Anybody got a spare I can buy or a tip on someone who stocks them?
Thanks.

I can probably dig one up for you. Would just have to cover shipping. Let me see what I have.

#2679 52 days ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

I’ll take a look in my parts stash

Quoted from FatPanda:

I can probably dig one up for you. Would just have to cover shipping. Let me see what I have.

Thanks guys!

I am happy to cover shipping and throw in a bit extra to buy you a beer and some credits.

#2680 52 days ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Thanks guys!
I am happy to cover shipping and throw in a bit extra to buy you a beer and some credits.

Is this what you're looking for?

20210805_161912 (resized).jpg
#2681 52 days ago

That is it!
Thanks.
I will shoot you a PM.

#2682 50 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

I just might have one in my stash, stay tuned for results later if all goes well

No luck so far. Bad traces bypassed, new ram, replaced the caps and transistor.

No led flash, dead as a doornail. I'll dig farther in the future.

#2683 49 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

No luck so far. Bad traces bypassed, new ram, replaced the caps and transistor.
No led flash, dead as a doornail. I'll dig farther in the future.

Who knew the future was only 12 hours off?

Checked part numbers of PROMs, good. removed all socketed chips and retest, no LED. Have 15.8 volts at T2, tested LED with 3 volt battery, LED is good. Testing pin 40 of 6800 on boot shows .20 volts, no bounce to 5 volts so the reset section is unhappy with life minimum.

#2684 49 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Testing pin 40 of 6800 on boot shows .20 volts, no bounce to 5 volts so the reset section is unhappy with life minimum.

The LED should be stuck on in this case. The default state of the 6821 pin driving the LED on power-up is high impedance so the pull-up resistor R107 causes the LED to be on. Check both ground and +5V pins at the U11 chip. This is separate to your reset problem.

#2685 49 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

The LED should be stuck on in this case. The default state of the 6821 pin driving the LED on power-up is high impedance so the pull-up resistor R107 causes the LED to be on. Check both ground and +5V pins at the U11 chip. This is separate to your reset problem.

4.66 volts measured at socket with no 6820 present.

#2686 49 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

4.66 volts measured at socket with no 6820 present.

Presume that's just a poor 5V connection to the board.
The LED is switched by transistor Q2. Resistor R107 switches the Q2 transistor "on" at power-up. Once code begins to execute properly after reset, it tells the 6821 at U11 to switch transistor Q2 (and subsequently the LED) "off".

RE: reset, the schematics list all the voltages in the valid power section.

Knowing you, you should be able to work it out

Below was some measurements I took a year or two ago for someone else. I can't 100% remember but I think the red resistance readings were taken with the black meter lead on ground and red meter lead at the point. The black resistance readings are with the meter leads swapped around.

MPU_Resistance_Readings_in_ValidPowerCircuit.jpg

#2687 48 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

Presume that's just a poor 5V connection to the board.

Should not be as I'm using Fireball to test and the connection is clean. I was going to trace out the 5v path as that sounded a touch low but ran out of time.

This is just a side project when I have a spare moment here or there. Otherwise I'm back to working on Flash Gordon. Yesterday I block sanded the playfield after the first coat of clear and took note of the areas that need attention. Tonight I'm going to mask off the white areas for paint.

ad77a5d37a225493f4a53055ff70cffa7983a3b0 (resized).jpg
#2688 48 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

Presume that's just a poor 5V connection to the board.
The LED is switched by transistor Q2. Resistor R107 switches the Q2 transistor "on" at power-up. Once code begins to execute properly after reset, it tells the 6821 at U11 to switch transistor Q2 (and subsequently the LED) "off".
RE: reset, the schematics list all the voltages in the valid power section.
Knowing you, you should be able to work it out
Below was some measurements I took a year or two ago for someone else. I can't 100% remember but I think the red resistance readings were taken with the black meter lead on ground and red meter lead at the point. The black resistance readings are with the meter leads swapped around.
[quoted image]

At test point 5 I have 5.2 volts so the hunt is on to find my missing volts!

Follow up: voltage looks right for that particular part. Schematic indicates 4.5 volts to pin 40, U11

Too early, I needed to look at pin 20, sorry about that. 5.20 volts with chip in place. Dont do diagnostics with little sleep.
20210809_054416 (resized).jpg

#2689 48 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Too early, I needed to look at pin 20, sorry about that. 5.20 volts with chip in place

Ok, move on from U11 to the LED circuit and find out why there's no life in the LED. Below are guesstimate voltages in the circuit:

MPU_LED_voltages.png

20
#2690 47 days ago

Thought I'd share; he comes down every day to play, states his dad use to repair pins, jukeboxes and slots.

20210809_134124 (resized).jpg
#2691 46 days ago

So I figured this group could probably help. I'm going to be listing the Voltan from a few posts up for sale in the near future. I'm struggling to price the game. If you have any input on what you think I should ask for it please let me know. I have a few people who have already reached out and I just don't know with it's rarity.

The new apron shipped out yesterday also I should have that last piece installed this weekend hopefully and I'll be streaming it before the sale so anyone interested can see it played. Feel free to send me a PM if you have any pricing advice. Thank you.
-Tommy

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-as-2518-club/page/54#post-6425395

#2692 46 days ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

So I figured this group could probably help. I'm going to be listing the Voltan from a few posts up for sale in the near future. I'm struggling to price the game. If you have any input on what you think I should ask for it please let me know. I have a few people who have already reached out and I just don't know with it's rarity.
The new apron shipped out yesterday also I should have that last piece installed this weekend hopefully and I'll be streaming it before the sale so anyone interested can see it played. Feel free to send me a PM if you have any pricing advice. Thank you.
-Tommy
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-as-2518-club/page/54#post-6425395

You might try to reach out to Jeff Miller PinballPimp . He did a full restore on one and might share what he got for it.

#2693 46 days ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

You might try to reach out to Jeff Miller PinballPimp . He did a full restore on one and might share what he got for it.

Thanks.

#2694 44 days ago

Bally playfield switch wiring Note:
Bally switched wire color sequences on ST1 and ST2.
From MPU A4J2.
1) Old Bally Switch wire color code:
ST0 [ 51 ]
ST1 [ 93 ]
ST2 [ 52 ]
ST3 [ 53 ]
ST4 [ 31 ]
up to Bally Hotdoggin / Viking.
--------------------------------
Starting with Skateball
2) New Bally Switch wire color code:
ST0 [ 51 ]
ST1 [ 70 ]
ST2 [ 93 ]
ST3 [ 53 ]
ST4 [ 31 ]
--
Also "L" target bracket changed from just two holes to
one of the holes being more oblong adjustable.

#2695 44 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Bally playfield switch wiring Note:
Bally switched wire color sequences on ST1 and ST2.
From MPU A4J2.
1) Old Bally Switch wire color code:
ST0 [ 51 ]
ST1 [ 93 ]
ST2 [ 52 ]
ST3 [ 53 ]
ST4 [ 31 ]
up to Bally Hotdoggin / Viking.
--------------------------------
Starting with Skateball
2) New Bally Switch wire color code:
ST0 [ 51 ]
ST1 [ 70 ]
ST2 [ 93 ]
ST3 [ 53 ]
ST4 [ 31 ]
--
Also "L" target bracket changed from just two holes to
one of the holes being more oblong adjustable.

Correct you are.
I noticed this too when creating the Tech Charts.

1 week later
#2696 34 days ago

Here's an odd issue that popped up on my viking. It began to happen when you double flip a few times it will activate the slam tilt (makes the Dee-doo-Dee-doo alarm and goes to attract mode). I bypassed the two slam tilt switches and it still happens. One time it qctivated the outhole, then slam tilted shortly after. I removed the MPU j3 connector and verified all the switch diodes seem to be functional and securely fastened. It will do this with no other playfield switches actuated (all drops up, outhole empty). Nothing fishy in switch test. The j3 connector was rebuilt at some point as it is a crimp and stuff, not IDC like the rest. No amount of wiggling or reseating connectors seems to make a difference. Popped in alltek MPU and SDU and the same issue persists. Was thinking that maybe the double flipping is causing some sort of voltage drop making the MPUs act funny as I cant seem to replicate the issue without double flipping and I've gotten pretty rough in testing. My next move was going to be a new rectifier board and rebuilding connectors if that didn't fix it although all power is metering correctly at the MPU / SDU at credit. Thoughts?

Edit: I suppose I could proof of concept my theory by disconnecting J3 and double flipping a bunch? If that doesn't do it I guess I'm left with connectors and replacing a bunch of switch diodes.

#2697 34 days ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Here's an odd issue that popped up on my viking. It began to happen when you double flip a few times it will activate the slam tilt (makes the Dee-doo-Dee-doo alarm and goes to attract mode). I bypassed the two slam tilt switches and it still happens. One time it qctivated the outhole, then slam tilted shortly after. I removed the MPU j3 connector and verified all the switch diodes seem to be functional and securely fastened. It will do this with no other playfield switches actuated (all drops up, outhole empty). Nothing fishy in switch test. The j3 connector was rebuilt at some point as it is a crimp and stuff, not IDC like the rest. No amount of wiggling or reseating connectors seems to make a difference. Popped in alltek MPU and SDU and the same issue persists. Was thinking that maybe the double flipping is causing some sort of voltage drop making the MPUs act funny as I cant seem to replicate the issue without double flipping and I've gotten pretty rough in testing. My next move was going to be a new rectifier board and rebuilding connectors if that didn't fix it although all power is metering correctly at the MPU / SDU at credit. Thoughts?
Edit: I suppose I could proof of concept my theory by disconnecting J3 and double flipping a bunch? If that doesn't do it I guess I'm left with connectors and replacing a bunch of switch diodes.

Humid where you are at? Try cutting the cap on the tilt board.

#2698 34 days ago

Would that cause a slam tilt or just a regular tilt? I thought it just went between the ring and bob. The switches for the slam tilts have had the wires disconnected.

#2699 34 days ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Would that cause a slam tilt or just a regular tilt? I thought it just went between the ring and bob. The switches for the slam tilts have had the wires disconnected.

Should be regular tilt not slam. I missed where you stated slam tilt.

#2700 33 days ago

Allright... long story long I was wrong about some stuff, or behavior changed at some point due to me messing with things. After some more diags and swapping a rectifier it turned out the bottom switch row was activating whatever switch was directly above it in the top switch row. The top left pop was activating the slam tilt, right top was the regular tilt or outhole I forget. Anyhow, an hour or so later I disconnected the power to the coils and held down the top left bumper switch and started tugging on every wire and diode under the playfield. It turned out that when I would flex the column wire on the left slingshot the correct switch number for the pop bumper would appear. Both wires as well as the diode seemed firmly attached but reflowing the solder resolved the issue entirely.

There are 2710 posts in this topic. You are on page 54 of 55.

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