The thread I started if anyone wants to follow. I will be starting with readings from this test here.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-viking-pop-bumper-solenoid-not-firing#post-6129258

Fyi, changed out the TIP102 transistor and it works. Whoever replaced it last time must have used a faulty transistor because it was already replaced at least once. Thanks to Quench again and others for helping!

First time doing a playfield swap on a classic Bally. For the pop bumper base- it has a ridge on the side and is very tight to install on the CPR repro pf #harlem globetrotters.

Don’t want too use too much force and break the plastic in case there is a trick or do I need to slightly enlarge the hole in the pf first?

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I would use a rotary tool sander. Most new playfields need holes carefully cleaned out with a drill. Ron K sells a kit. Picture of 32 Seawitch in production. After cnc I prep them by numerous rotary tool attachments to clean up the cuts for lenses or GI & target banks, etc.

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Thanks @greatwichjohn. Couple spins on low speed with this drum sander attachment of my Dremel inserted in the hole to remove some built up clear and the pop bumper base fits perfectly.

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Has anybody come up with a more elegant solution to the saucer ball rest being broken than the previous owner of my HGT?

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I had a guy many years ago make the thin metal prong strip out of stainless steel.
I wish I had more made....

I keep spare parts from junked Bally games from years ago. Seen the same repair previously from operators.

If installing LED's in a classic Bally this is a great mod to do, the adapter boards work fine but I wanted to try this after seeing a post on it years ago.

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Details please. Are you adding resistor arrays to the back of the original lamp board?

Yes.

Original post below with some details. I used 10 pin arrays which left me short on a single line in two spots but if you look close in the picture above you can see where I just added a pair of 470 ohm resistors and tied them in. My Xenon looks SWEET with LED's now. The playfield just pops.

"One other DIY method that wasn't mentioned above is soldering SIP resistors soldered directly to the back of the board (Vid had posted a picture of this in another thread). You're out total cost of some SIP resistors & wire, so probably looking at $1.20-1.50 per header that way. Common pin on the SIPs get bent up or snipped higher than the board (so they aren't shorting to anything), then those pins are tied together with wire running between them & the wire then ties into the feature lamp bus. The other pins on the SIPs (individual resistors) get soldered to the 2.54mm header positions. It has the benefit that you're looking at & re-soldering practically every header pin on the board, which is usually needed anyway since there are almost always a few cracked/cold solder joints on those headers. I thought that was pretty clever, not sure Vid if you came up with that or someone else did.. but a great DIY method IMO."

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/classic-ballystern-led-adapter-kit-review#post-1812416

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You could run a blue wire to add the lamp +6 volt to one of the pins that is not used...
that way, it is an all in one.

I'm happy with the current solution as I have several Bally pins and can move it from pin to pin with a minimum of fuss.

emsrph or any other pinsiders with CPR HGT playfields... did you also find that the pop bumper mount holes are really far off? Like not even close? Pretty much have to plug and drill new, right?

No, when I dry fit the pop bumper parts they line up perfectly.

I think I have it placed correctly. Socket wires go thru the two little holes and base mount screws are in the large elongated holes along with the center of the base. Rods will go thru the two larger separate holes.
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So to confirm-Chalkey or anyone else, the pop bumper base screws go in the circled areas of the big elongated hole, correct?

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Yes, that's correct. And there is a bracket with two nuts welded to it, that should be on the underside. The screws go into these nuts, and the bracket gets two additional screws to hold it to the pf.

Ok, great. That’s my plan.

Chalky are you trying to use the wrong holes (for the pop bumper base, lol)?

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Yeah I was having a time after being pissed at having to wallow out the holes for the bases. The holes that are off are the holes for the legs of the lamps. Might barely clear or need to be wallowed out just a touch.

I am trying to figure out my sound issue on Lost World. I am getting very low audio from the speaker. You can hear the bonus countdown if the door is open and nothing else is making noise in the background.

I pulled the board and reflowed all of the solder joints on the headers. I was actually getting good voltages prior to this, but there were several cracked headers so it was needed. I also replaced both pots.

Reading through pinwiki I get good voltages at the + side of C17, U9 pin 2, .8V on R3 as mentioned, and all TP’s register proper values.

Anything else I can check out?

Hit a snag with my Space Invaders restore with a new problems that cropped up last weekend with my lights. The first is when I turned on my game and sections of of the chasing lights in the back box are out. If you start in a corner and divide the lights in groups of four, every other group of lights are out. Also, the right side of the creature lights are out as well. The light on the left side are on with a bit of flicker. I’ve put new solder on J1, J2 and J3 on the aux lamp board thinking that might fix it, but no luck there. The wired things is that these problems this the first time in the year I’ve had this game that this happened. All the boards are original except the MPU board, which is an Alltek. I've looked through the schematics and for the creature lights, each light grouping is tied to a different MC140288 IC.

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Are they the same address for each chip? Could it be an stuck address line affecting all the chips at once?

They are different. It's leg 4 for U2, leg 5 for U3, leg 4 for U4 and leg 5 for U5. For the door frame, I'm at a loss of how to read the schematic since there's lots of ways you can interpret left & bottom and right & top for the pin out in J2 and J3.

I had issues with my sound board when one of the electrolytic caps went bad. Recapped and all was fine.

Thanks. I put a list together and will pick up new caps and see how it goes.

Verified that both the light board and light aux board are good by trying them in a friend's 8 Ball Deluxe... Also later today I got the game working after I noticed the Alltek MPU board was only attached by standoffs and I attached a screw to ground it to the backbox... and later the game stopped working again...so back to the drawing board...

Quick question about my CPR Harlem Globetrotters On Tour repro playfield...when I bought it was sold as a 'silver grade'.

I don't see a stamp that states the grading. Is it typically on the back somewhere? Thx.

Yes, on the bottom of the playfield.

Is it usually located very low that maybe it’s under my rotisserie bracket?

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I've had two CPR playfields (gold and silver) and the stamps were readily apparent and not particularly close to the edge. However, mine were for newer games without the gray bottom.

The silver grading indicator on mine is all the black lines being off.

Just trying to make sure mine isn't Bronze level!

Found the problem and fixed it. The high voltage/solenoid board had corrosion/lite surface rust on the bottom side of where the corner grounding screws go. Cleaned up both spots and the game works like a champ. It ever brought the sound board back to life!

I'm looking at a stack of Stern MPU-200 boards and a couple seem to be running slow. Are all the MPU-200 boards meant to run at .895mhz or was there some that ran slower than that? I checked the jumpers for the clock and that appears correct. One board is running at .826mhz while one is at .658mhz and another at .551mhz so they are all slower than .895mhz.

I've looked on PinWiki as well but didn't see anything specific about the MPU-200 and acceptable clock speed tolerance.

added mine!

Prior to my playfield swap, the flippers on my Viking were sticking up, but would drop after a second or two. I come to find that the coil stops on both were magnetized. I rebuilt them with a Pinball Life kit during the swap, and they still stick up momentarily. I changed the coil stops with new ones bought from Pinball Resource and they still stick up. Right now, I have clear packing tape over the Pinball Life stops and that seems to do the trick, but is there a reason why the coil stops are getting magnetized immediately?

Made out of the wrong metal. You don't have any kind of 'bolt bar' or something similar under the stop area? (Tom Callahan's Repair connection used to sell a metal slug to go under the bracket to add extra beefiness to the coil stop area - but it acted as a magenetism sink)

the new kicker guides can be found here, single or twin pack (which you need to trim back but saves a few dollars)

https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?type=product&q=swinksc-972-3parts

I know these are used on a Fathom, what other games are they on

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No, it's just the flipper plate. I've used both Pinball Life and Pinball resource rebuild kits for several other games with no issues.

What is this bolt bar?

An well intentioned but ill suited solution to stripped out coil stop screws, it was a slug of a softer type metal almost like lead that added about 1/4" thickness that that area, where you could put longer screws in and the theory was that it wouldn't deform over time. Unfortunately, all it did was store magnetism and cause the whole flipper assembly to stick because of it.

Here's a wayback of the relevant part, scroll down to see it:
https://web.archive.org/web/20071021110923/http://pin-logic.com/black_bally_buttons.htm

Tom had some interesting stuff that's for sure. He or his dad converted a Bally 8 ball to a ball 8 ball deluxe using the 8 ball playfield and parts from the eight ball deluxe, it was at York several years ago. (It might have even been in a cocktail cabinet.... so long ago that I don't recall.....)

Interesting. No there's nothing like that on my game. It's the flipper assembly as normal. In looking at the coils, they seem to match spec. I will have to do some cross referencing, as the part numbers printed on the coil label is different from what's in the manual, but it seems like they are interchangeable.

Are you sure it's magnetism that is causing your flippers to stick? I've seen on more than one occasion where flippers would stick up due to EOS switches binding with the actuator in the full stroke position.

I'm pretty sure its magnetism. There is no binding when I manually plunge the flipper and the action on the EOS switch is clean. When the flippers stick up, I can turn off the machine and it will stay stuck up, but as soon as I barely touch the mech, it will drop.

I've had to loosen the linkages a little on machines where they bound up just a smidge and had behavior similar to this.

I've added pieces of clear packing tape to the coil stops, which I read somewhere else, and the flippers don't stick, but I'd like a more permanent solution.

Check the base plate for any bowing... check the coil for any off angle...
check the lever assembly... the nylon actuator/lever must be horizontal...
the long plunger should never be able to rotate on it center point...only very slightly...
check the nylon bushing...check the angle of the coil stop...
*******************************************************
Note: Take a coil stop assembly and fasten the short angle into a vice.
------ Take a large flat screw driver and slightly insert it into the back side of the stop.
------ Carefully pull up the back side of the stop... it is only a slight movement...
------ The coil stop should now have a very slight angle forward.
------ Refasten the coil stop to the flipper bracket base.

Fine tuning my newly swapped CPR Harlem Globetrotters On Tour playfield. Digging the increased speed, smoothness and good looks.

With this increased speed the ball is flying through the gate and not stopping in the hole at the end of the inline drops.

The ball rides the clear plastic on the right side and curves to the left into the straight metal piece. Then it’s supposed to bounce into the hole? Is there room to adjust this or is something missing?

Need to study my disassembly pics unless someone can spot what may be put together wrong?

Thanks.

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After looking at my tear down pics it seems I placed the rectangular metal strip too far to the left of the hole. I've been verifying hole locations as I go but must have missed that one by at least 1/4"

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I'm also doing a HGT playfield swap. One of my saucers is missing one of the metal guides (triangle shape pieces) that the ball rests on in the saucer. The P.O. solved this by putting a wood screw through the bottom. Is there a 3d printed part or any other things I can do to fix it in a more elegant manner?