(Topic ID: 85292)

Bally/Stern AS-2518 Club !


By mof

6 years ago



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There are 2447 posts in this topic. You are on page 49 of 49.
#2401 72 days ago

Fixing up an extra Bally -35 board for a friend. He has a Power Play that had a -17 board (totally ruined by battery corrosion) running a 2716 ROM in U2 and a 2716 in U6. I verified the contents of the 2716 chips and they check out. It looks like there are a couple variations on the jumper settings for running the 2716 chips but it looks like these may be the ones to use:

1-5,2-4,7-8,10-12,11-29,13a-14,16a-18,31-32,33-35 cut 13-15

Is anyone else running a pair of 2716 chips in U2 and U6 and if so can you confirm the jumpers above are correct? One of the sites mentioned using 11-25 instead of 11-29

#2402 72 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Fixing up an extra Bally -35 board for a friend. He has a Power Play that had a -17 board (totally ruined by battery corrosion) running a 2716 ROM in U2 and a 2716 in U6. I verified the contents of the 2716 chips and they check out. It looks like there are a couple variations on the jumper settings for running the 2716 chips but it looks like these may be the ones to use:
1-5,2-4,7-8,10-12,11-29,13a-14,16a-18,31-32,33-35 cut 13-15
Is anyone else running a pair of 2716 chips in U2 and U6 and if so can you confirm the jumpers above are correct? One of the sites mentioned using 11-25 instead of 11-29

Skateball B all 2716 Eproms: E1-E5,E2-E4,E7-E8,E11-E25,E10-E12,E13A-E14,
------------------------------ E31-E32,E33-E34,E16A-E19,E26-E29,E28-E30.

#2403 71 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

One of the sites mentioned using 11-25 instead of 11-29

If you want to use the U2 socket, E11 should go to E29 so that U2 is enabled at address range $1000-$17FF. This will actually mirror the U1 socket.
Connecting E11 to E25 enables the U2 socket for address space $5000-$57FF which is not how Power Play (-17 games) are coded. In this case you would have to install the 2716 at U1 instead. This configuration might be preferred because you could also run the board with early -35 based games using 2716's at U1, U2 and U6 without changing jumpers.

#2404 66 days ago

I’m putting the final touches on the top side of a Harlem Globetrotters playfield swap. The first picture is from the local CL ad.

It has a perfect original backglass and solid cabinet.

I swapped in a clear coated playfield from Ballylama, plus apron cards and spinner decals from Upkick Pinball. I used solder tabs and ran a whole new under-playfield braid with corresponding colored wire bought from the local Ace hardware store.

I still have a few coils to replace and some board work to finish up.

I did run the harness through the dishwasher and had great results.

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#2405 66 days ago

Sweetness!

Always wanted to own a Globetrotters.

Looks like I might have a line on a clean EK...will find out tomorrow if I can go and grab it.

#2406 65 days ago

Hi all,
On my EBD, when I activate the flippers, the GI slightly flickers. It is definitely not a big deal (I guess I'm the only one to notice at home), but still annoys me. It is visible especially in the bad box where I installed leds... any advice ?
Thanks!

#2407 65 days ago
Quoted from matiou:

Hi all,
On my EBD, when I activate the flippers, the GI slightly flickers... It is visible especially in the bad box where I installed leds... any advice ?
Thanks!

The current surge on the transformer from the flippers causes a dip in G.I voltage. The only way you can eliminate this is to power the G.I. from a separate source.

#2408 65 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

The current surge on the transformer from the flippers causes a dip in G.I voltage. The only way you can eliminate this is to power the G.I. from a separate source.

It'll be interesting to see if that little phenomenon goes away when this replacement Bally transformer hits the market later this year:

https://www.facebook.com/homepin.factory/photos/a.111986629573489/830968014342010/

#2409 65 days ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

It'll be interesting to see if that little phenomenon goes away when this replacement Bally transformer hits the market later this year:

I don't expect it to make any difference.
Using LEDs makes it worse because they don't have any light persistence like incandescents do.

#2410 65 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

I don't expect it to make any difference.
Using LEDs makes it worse because they don't have any light persistence like incandescents do.

I confirm... I only found out when I installed leds in my backbox.

#2411 65 days ago

Hi all, does anyone have a couple bally drop target coil brackets laying around they could part with? I have a project game and those brackets are missing.

Or if there are any alternates I could use, that would be helpful as well. Thanks!

#2412 64 days ago

I put 5v dc power supplies into games i want to run the GI on LED lamps. I don't like the 120hz strobe and the flipper dim out. In a bally game because GI is across earth it is a bit of a chore to install and fuse. Wms / sega / de / stern very easy install.

5vdc is plenty to light up the smd type LED lamps. Can usually adjust up to about 5.4vdc or so.
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#2413 64 days ago
Quoted from barakandl:

I put 5v dc power supplies into games i want to run the GI on LED lamps. I don't like the 120hz strobe and the flipper dim out. In a bally game because GI is across earth it is a bit of a chore to install and fuse. Wms / sega / de / stern very easy install.
5vdc is plenty to light up the smd type LED lamps. Can usually adjust up to about 5.4vdc or so.
[quoted image]

i have the same PSU on my shelf waiting to be installed in my QS for the same purpose

#2414 63 days ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

i have the same PSU on my shelf waiting to be installed in my QS for the same purpose

I have been using the SSS fuse card so I can fuse the switcher mode ps of each individual GI string plus add a connector point so the transformer can still easily come out. 1.5a x4 is working fine. I have a two 'Z' connector for the non fused side again so the transformer easily comes out. To go back to normal stock transformer have to pull the crimp pins out of the new added connectors and slide it back into the rectifier plug.

In WMS/DE/Sega/Stern games just put the switcher ps near the transformer and add a plug that mates with the connector already there. Then you can go back to the stock transformer just by moving the connector over. Change the fuse values to be at least the rating on the power supply, but can go much lower with LED lamps.

#2415 63 days ago

What tool(s) and/or method(s) do you guys use to cut down a connector plug housing? I've got a ton of 15 and 20 pin .0156" connectors but need to replace an 18 pin one. I ordered some 18 pinners this afternoon to stock up on but if I can trim down one of my 20 pin connectors and not have it look like a total hack job, I can finish this re-pinning tonight. Thanx!

#2416 63 days ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

What tool(s) and/or method(s) do you guys use to cut down a connector plug housing? I've got a ton of 15 and 20 pin .0156" connectors but need to replace an 18 pin one. I ordered some 18 pinners this afternoon to stock up on but if I can trim down one of my 20 pin connectors and not have it look like a total hack job, I can finish this re-pinning tonight. Thanx!

I use a box cutter or utility blade to score what will become the outside edge of my smaller connector. Then I snap that section off and clean up whatever isn’t flush on the edge.

#2417 63 days ago
Quoted from EEE:

I use a box cutter or utility blade to score what will become the outside edge of my smaller connector. Then I snap that section off and clean up whatever isn’t flush on the edge.

Utility knife then a bit of sandpaper or file to smooth.

Dremel cutting disc also works fine if you have a way to secure the end you want to keep.

#2418 62 days ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

What tool(s) and/or method(s) do you guys use to cut down a connector plug housing? I've got a ton of 15 and 20 pin .0156" connectors but need to replace an 18 pin one. I ordered some 18 pinners this afternoon to stock up on but if I can trim down one of my 20 pin connectors and not have it look like a total hack job, I can finish this re-pinning tonight. Thanx!

My hakko snipper does a fine job and hacking down larger housings into smaller ones.

You can go the other way too joining two housing together by roughing up the ends with sand paper. Dot of super glue. Clamp overnight. I have some super glued together that has gone through tons of cycles on test gear without breaking.

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1 week later
#2419 55 days ago
Quoted from Jappie:

Snap! These break easily. Broke 2 while cleaning the backboard of my Centaur II. Does anybody know if they are available somewhere?
Not sure what they're called, but they are the things that make sure that only a text (tilt, extra ball, et cetera) lights up when the controlled lamp behind the backglass is on.
[quoted image]

A friend did me a huge favour and 3d-printed a bunch of these light baffles for me. In the only color that is right for Centaur II.

Just one of the originals survived in one piece.

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1 week later
#2420 48 days ago

A before and after of our Harlem Globetrotters. Enjoy

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2 weeks later
#2421 30 days ago

Had my Wild Fyre fully working and used the alltek MPU for a different game I was working on. I got a new alltek MPU and now my sound wont work. I have made sure that the connector is in the right place but still no luck. All I get is a loud chirp on power up and then a little hum.

Any ideas?

*Edit Solved* Alltek MPU needed dipswitch #23 (Electronic Sound) turned to the on position.

#2422 30 days ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

I have made sure that the connector is in the right place but still no luck. All I get is a loud chirp on power up and then a little hum.

Does it have a Volume pot on the door like my FG?

Maybe try cleaning that?

Mine was filthy and I chased sound issues for too long before it dawned on me that a really dirty pot in an amp would do the same thing I was fighting.

#2423 30 days ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Does it have a Volue pot on the door like my FG?
Maybe try cleaning that?
Mine was filthy and I chased sound issues for too long before it dawned on me that a really dirty pot in an amp would do the same thing I was fighting.

Mine is in the cabinet on the speaker mount. Turning it only makes the hum get louder.

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#2424 30 days ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Does it have a Volue pot on the door like my FG?
Maybe try cleaning that?
Mine was filthy and I chased sound issues for too long before it dawned on me that a really dirty pot in an amp would do the same thing I was fighting.

*Solved* Alltek MPU needed dipswitch #23 (Electronic Sound) turned to the on position.

Edited post above to show solution.

1 week later
#2425 22 days ago

I’m looking for the size of the common nail that is used in classic Bally games. This is the nail usually found under the sling plastics.

#2426 22 days ago
Quoted from djblouw:

I’m looking for the size of the common nail that is used in classic Bally games. This is the nail usually found under the sling plastics.

Try a Finishing nail [ 15 Gauge x 1-½" ].

1 week later
#2427 12 days ago

I'm doing my first playfield swap on a Flash Gordon. My question is, I stapled down some sockets, but wasnt paying attention to the orientation of the tabs. I assume that I messed up at least some of them...where the tab that has continuity with the socket housing needs to be on the ground wire attached to the bracket of other screw down sockets...sorry for my bad explanation. In this pic, the braid going to the bracket of the screw down socket is actually going to the tab that has continuity to the bulb. I'm assuming that this is incorrect and needs to go to the tab that has continuity to the socket housing. Can someone confirm before I do all the rework?

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#2428 12 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I'm doing my first playfield swap on a Flash Gordon. My question is, I stapled down some sockets, but wasnt paying attention to the orientation of the tabs. I assume that I messed up at least some of them...where the tab that has continuity with the socket housing needs to be on the ground wire attached to the bracket of other screw down sockets...sorry for my bad explanation. In this pic, the braid going to the bracket of the screw down socket is actually going to the tab that has continuity to the bulb. I'm assuming that this is incorrect and needs to go to the tab that has continuity to the socket housing. Can someone confirm before I do all the rework?
[quoted image]

For GI sockets it doesn’t matter, they are AC.

#2429 12 days ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

For GI sockets it doesn’t matter, they are AC.

Really? Nice! Then I can leave them as-is and they'll still work? Just dont want to continue and have everything back on the game to not have some GI work due to the tab orientation.

#2430 12 days ago

Just read a different post where generally speaking that GI tabs dont matter, but there are some instances where they do connect to ground on controlled lamps and that does matter. I believe there are at least some GI sockets that also connect to controlled sockets on FG, but I would have to confirm...so it looks like I may be doing some rework afterall.

#2431 12 days ago

Hi, I recently bought a SMDM machine and the paint on the outside cabinet and backbox are very faded. I would like to paint it the original colors. Can anyone point me in the right direction to find the matching paint colors please?

#2432 12 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

but there are some instances where they do connect to ground on controlled lamps and that does matter.

The G.I and feature lamps circuits are totally separate. The braid wire for the controlled lamps is actually carrying 6 volts DC, it's not ground. Don't connect it to any G.I lamp sockets. In terms of wiring to sockets, it only becomes a problem if you're using cheap cheap LEDs that are unidirectional - nobody much uses them in pinball so it's not really a problem. At the end of the day it depends on how OCD you are about the wiring. Personally I would 'correct' it.

#2433 12 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

The G.I and feature lamps circuits are totally separate. The braid wire for the controlled lamps is actually carrying 6 volts DC, it's not ground. Don't connect it to any G.I lamp sockets. In terms of wiring to sockets, it only becomes a problem if you're using cheap cheap LEDs that are unidirectional - nobody much uses them in pinball so it's not really a problem. At the end of the day it depends on how OCD you are about the wiring. Personally I would 'correct' it.

Ok. Thanks Quench! If I would have caught it before I stapled them down and soldered, i probably would have done it the right way. If the GI is completely separate from the controlled lamps, and the GI sockets do not care which tabs are which, then I'll likely leave it as it will save me some rework time.

#2434 12 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

The G.I and feature lamps circuits are totally separate. The braid wire for the controlled lamps is actually carrying 6 volts DC, it's not ground. Don't connect it to any G.I lamp sockets. In terms of wiring to sockets, it only becomes a problem if you're using cheap cheap LEDs that are unidirectional - nobody much uses them in pinball so it's not really a problem. At the end of the day it depends on how OCD you are about the wiring. Personally I would 'correct' it.

Ok, now I'm really confused. There are some GI that are connected to controlled lamps.

This braiding route was taken directly from the original playfield.

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#2435 12 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Ok, now I'm really confused. There are some GI that are connected to controlled lamps.
This braiding route was taken directly from the original playfield.[quoted image]

Emperor Ming is a lamp feature.

#2436 12 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Emperor Ming is a lamp feature.

I realized that thinking about it more after my last post and this morning. I should probably go through it all and make sure all the tabs are oriented correctly.

#2437 12 days ago

So, here's one for the group I need some suggestions on... Take a look at this pic. It's a Speakeasy, so it's a resin playfield... And it's cracked. Can confirm that crack shows through the other side as well. How the hell would you reinforce this so it doesn't get worse?

Sidenote - though cool as hell the flyaway targets are an absolute mother to work on

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#2438 12 days ago
Quoted from statictrance:

How the hell would you reinforce this so it doesn't get worse?

Good news....it won't get worse. The hole provided a "crack stop". In my engineering experience, if a crack developed in a metal structure, we would often drill a hole at the end of the crack to stop it from propagating farther.

Side note: Used to have a Speakeasy. The worse thing I remember about the flyaway targets were they broke and were unobtainable. I think now though people are 3D printing them.

#2439 12 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I realized that thinking about it more after my last post and this morning. I should probably go through it all and make sure all the tabs are oriented correctly.

Sometimes they mix the circuits as well, where one wire will go into another's circuit (there are 2 GI strings going to the PF) - so if you have it mixed it will blow the fuse since you are shorting out the GI. Not all games would share parts of the load, but just good practice.

Also in your pic you are using the double tabbed sockets - is one of those tabs attached to the mount so you can run the wire to the tab or the mount?

#2440 12 days ago
Quoted from JethroP:

Good news....it won't get worse. The hole provided a "crack stop"

I had kinda hoped that would be the case, but wanted to check. Is there anything preventative you'd recommend? It's luckily in the corner, so doesn't seem to affect gameplay or level.

Luckily I have a second set of fly away targets. This game came from PAPA and had a number of extras in the coinbox to fix it up with. Still maintain whoever engineered it should be taken out back and slapped around. You can't even change the rubber as it. The circuit board is hard soldered and wire runs through the plastic to a board underneath. I had to cut and install a molex to thread it through

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#2441 12 days ago
Quoted from statictrance:

Is there anything preventative you'd recommend? It's luckily in the corner, so doesn't seem to affect gameplay or level.

I wouldn't expect it to get worse. But if you're worried you might put extra stress on that corner lifting and lowering the playfield (applying pressure directly to that corner), I suppose you could add a metal backing plate and epoxy it on the backside straddling the crack. I love J-B weld.

#2442 12 days ago

I had an interesting lamp board repair recently. Lamp board would sporadically lose all lamps that were driven by u4. It was all or nothing, and the lamps would come and go with pressing/flexing on u4 (u4 was already socketed). Poking around on the bench revealed that r71 was cracked, which sends the PD3 signal to u4, and flexing the board would temporarily connect r71 back together.

#2443 12 days ago

Alright working on an Evil Knievel, just installed a new brigde recfiter and new MPU and game still isn't booting. I am getting six flashes on MPU..

#2444 12 days ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Alright working on an Evil Knievel, just installed a new brigde recfiter and new MPU and game still isn't booting. I am getting six flashes on MPU..

Check for 43 volts on the rectifier board (TP5) and 21.5 volts at TP3 on the MPU. Fuse F4 good?

#2445 12 days ago
Quoted from emsrph:

Check for 43 volts on the rectifier board (TP5) and 21.5 volts at TP3 on the MPU. Fuse F4 good?

Yeah fuse is good, I'll check later today.

#2446 12 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

Sometimes they mix the circuits as well, where one wire will go into another's circuit (there are 2 GI strings going to the PF) - so if you have it mixed it will blow the fuse since you are shorting out the GI. Not all games would share parts of the load, but just good practice.
Also in your pic you are using the double tabbed sockets - is one of those tabs attached to the mount so you can run the wire to the tab or the mount?

I didn't check to see if that tab had continuity to the mount. It has it to the socket though, so is the assumption that it would to the mount, right? Either way, I did it the old fashioned way and soldered it to the bracket where the screw is because I already had my old reference PF and it's cleaner and I wouldn't introduce another way to short out that lamps. I will use at least some of those tabs to solder resistors on to since there are a couple handfuls of lamps that flicker with LEDs.

#2447 12 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

Sometimes they mix the circuits as well, where one wire will go into another's circuit (there are 2 GI strings going to the PF) - so if you have it mixed it will blow the fuse since you are shorting out the GI. Not all games would share parts of the load, but just good practice.
Also in your pic you are using the double tabbed sockets - is one of those tabs attached to the mount so you can run the wire to the tab or the mount?

Damn Scott, you were right. The tab is isolated from the mount so none of the lamps would have gotten any voltage at all! Looks like I will have more soldering to do...I'm such an idiot.

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