Fixing up an extra Bally -35 board for a friend. He has a Power Play that had a -17 board (totally ruined by battery corrosion) running a 2716 ROM in U2 and a 2716 in U6. I verified the contents of the 2716 chips and they check out. It looks like there are a couple variations on the jumper settings for running the 2716 chips but it looks like these may be the ones to use:

1-5,2-4,7-8,10-12,11-29,13a-14,16a-18,31-32,33-35 cut 13-15

Is anyone else running a pair of 2716 chips in U2 and U6 and if so can you confirm the jumpers above are correct? One of the sites mentioned using 11-25 instead of 11-29

Skateball B all 2716 Eproms: E1-E5,E2-E4,E7-E8,E11-E25,E10-E12,E13A-E14,
------------------------------ E31-E32,E33-E34,E16A-E19,E26-E29,E28-E30.

If you want to use the U2 socket, E11 should go to E29 so that U2 is enabled at address range $1000-$17FF. This will actually mirror the U1 socket.
Connecting E11 to E25 enables the U2 socket for address space $5000-$57FF which is not how Power Play (-17 games) are coded. In this case you would have to install the 2716 at U1 instead. This configuration might be preferred because you could also run the board with early -35 based games using 2716's at U1, U2 and U6 without changing jumpers.

I’m putting the final touches on the top side of a Harlem Globetrotters playfield swap. The first picture is from the local CL ad.

It has a perfect original backglass and solid cabinet.

I swapped in a clear coated playfield from Ballylama, plus apron cards and spinner decals from Upkick Pinball. I used solder tabs and ran a whole new under-playfield braid with corresponding colored wire bought from the local Ace hardware store.

I still have a few coils to replace and some board work to finish up.

I did run the harness through the dishwasher and had great results.

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Sweetness!

Always wanted to own a Globetrotters.

Looks like I might have a line on a clean EK...will find out tomorrow if I can go and grab it.

Hi all,
On my EBD, when I activate the flippers, the GI slightly flickers. It is definitely not a big deal (I guess I'm the only one to notice at home), but still annoys me. It is visible especially in the bad box where I installed leds... any advice ?
Thanks!

The current surge on the transformer from the flippers causes a dip in G.I voltage. The only way you can eliminate this is to power the G.I. from a separate source.

It'll be interesting to see if that little phenomenon goes away when this replacement Bally transformer hits the market later this year:

https://www.facebook.com/homepin.factory/photos/a.111986629573489/830968014342010/

I don't expect it to make any difference.
Using LEDs makes it worse because they don't have any light persistence like incandescents do.

I confirm... I only found out when I installed leds in my backbox.

Hi all, does anyone have a couple bally drop target coil brackets laying around they could part with? I have a project game and those brackets are missing.

Or if there are any alternates I could use, that would be helpful as well. Thanks!

I put 5v dc power supplies into games i want to run the GI on LED lamps. I don't like the 120hz strobe and the flipper dim out. In a bally game because GI is across earth it is a bit of a chore to install and fuse. Wms / sega / de / stern very easy install.

5vdc is plenty to light up the smd type LED lamps. Can usually adjust up to about 5.4vdc or so.
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i have the same PSU on my shelf waiting to be installed in my QS for the same purpose

I have been using the SSS fuse card so I can fuse the switcher mode ps of each individual GI string plus add a connector point so the transformer can still easily come out. 1.5a x4 is working fine. I have a two 'Z' connector for the non fused side again so the transformer easily comes out. To go back to normal stock transformer have to pull the crimp pins out of the new added connectors and slide it back into the rectifier plug.

In WMS/DE/Sega/Stern games just put the switcher ps near the transformer and add a plug that mates with the connector already there. Then you can go back to the stock transformer just by moving the connector over. Change the fuse values to be at least the rating on the power supply, but can go much lower with LED lamps.

What tool(s) and/or method(s) do you guys use to cut down a connector plug housing? I've got a ton of 15 and 20 pin .0156" connectors but need to replace an 18 pin one. I ordered some 18 pinners this afternoon to stock up on but if I can trim down one of my 20 pin connectors and not have it look like a total hack job, I can finish this re-pinning tonight. Thanx!

I use a box cutter or utility blade to score what will become the outside edge of my smaller connector. Then I snap that section off and clean up whatever isn’t flush on the edge.

Utility knife then a bit of sandpaper or file to smooth.

Dremel cutting disc also works fine if you have a way to secure the end you want to keep.

My hakko snipper does a fine job and hacking down larger housings into smaller ones.

You can go the other way too joining two housing together by roughing up the ends with sand paper. Dot of super glue. Clamp overnight. I have some super glued together that has gone through tons of cycles on test gear without breaking.

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A friend did me a huge favour and 3d-printed a bunch of these light baffles for me. In the only color that is right for Centaur II.

Just one of the originals survived in one piece.

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A before and after of our Harlem Globetrotters. Enjoy

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Had my Wild Fyre fully working and used the alltek MPU for a different game I was working on. I got a new alltek MPU and now my sound wont work. I have made sure that the connector is in the right place but still no luck. All I get is a loud chirp on power up and then a little hum.

Any ideas?

*Edit Solved* Alltek MPU needed dipswitch #23 (Electronic Sound) turned to the on position.

Does it have a Volume pot on the door like my FG?

Maybe try cleaning that?

Mine was filthy and I chased sound issues for too long before it dawned on me that a really dirty pot in an amp would do the same thing I was fighting.

Mine is in the cabinet on the speaker mount. Turning it only makes the hum get louder.

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*Solved* Alltek MPU needed dipswitch #23 (Electronic Sound) turned to the on position.

Edited post above to show solution.

I’m looking for the size of the common nail that is used in classic Bally games. This is the nail usually found under the sling plastics.

Try a Finishing nail [ 15 Gauge x 1-½" ].

I'm doing my first playfield swap on a Flash Gordon. My question is, I stapled down some sockets, but wasnt paying attention to the orientation of the tabs. I assume that I messed up at least some of them...where the tab that has continuity with the socket housing needs to be on the ground wire attached to the bracket of other screw down sockets...sorry for my bad explanation. In this pic, the braid going to the bracket of the screw down socket is actually going to the tab that has continuity to the bulb. I'm assuming that this is incorrect and needs to go to the tab that has continuity to the socket housing. Can someone confirm before I do all the rework?

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For GI sockets it doesn’t matter, they are AC.

Really? Nice! Then I can leave them as-is and they'll still work? Just dont want to continue and have everything back on the game to not have some GI work due to the tab orientation.

Just read a different post where generally speaking that GI tabs dont matter, but there are some instances where they do connect to ground on controlled lamps and that does matter. I believe there are at least some GI sockets that also connect to controlled sockets on FG, but I would have to confirm...so it looks like I may be doing some rework afterall.

Hi, I recently bought a SMDM machine and the paint on the outside cabinet and backbox are very faded. I would like to paint it the original colors. Can anyone point me in the right direction to find the matching paint colors please?

The G.I and feature lamps circuits are totally separate. The braid wire for the controlled lamps is actually carrying 6 volts DC, it's not ground. Don't connect it to any G.I lamp sockets. In terms of wiring to sockets, it only becomes a problem if you're using cheap cheap LEDs that are unidirectional - nobody much uses them in pinball so it's not really a problem. At the end of the day it depends on how OCD you are about the wiring. Personally I would 'correct' it.

Ok. Thanks Quench! If I would have caught it before I stapled them down and soldered, i probably would have done it the right way. If the GI is completely separate from the controlled lamps, and the GI sockets do not care which tabs are which, then I'll likely leave it as it will save me some rework time.

Ok, now I'm really confused. There are some GI that are connected to controlled lamps.

This braiding route was taken directly from the original playfield.

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Emperor Ming is a lamp feature.

I realized that thinking about it more after my last post and this morning. I should probably go through it all and make sure all the tabs are oriented correctly.

So, here's one for the group I need some suggestions on... Take a look at this pic. It's a Speakeasy, so it's a resin playfield... And it's cracked. Can confirm that crack shows through the other side as well. How the hell would you reinforce this so it doesn't get worse?

Sidenote - though cool as hell the flyaway targets are an absolute mother to work on

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Good news....it won't get worse. The hole provided a "crack stop". In my engineering experience, if a crack developed in a metal structure, we would often drill a hole at the end of the crack to stop it from propagating farther.

Side note: Used to have a Speakeasy. The worse thing I remember about the flyaway targets were they broke and were unobtainable. I think now though people are 3D printing them.

Sometimes they mix the circuits as well, where one wire will go into another's circuit (there are 2 GI strings going to the PF) - so if you have it mixed it will blow the fuse since you are shorting out the GI. Not all games would share parts of the load, but just good practice.

Also in your pic you are using the double tabbed sockets - is one of those tabs attached to the mount so you can run the wire to the tab or the mount?

I had kinda hoped that would be the case, but wanted to check. Is there anything preventative you'd recommend? It's luckily in the corner, so doesn't seem to affect gameplay or level.

Luckily I have a second set of fly away targets. This game came from PAPA and had a number of extras in the coinbox to fix it up with. Still maintain whoever engineered it should be taken out back and slapped around. You can't even change the rubber as it. The circuit board is hard soldered and wire runs through the plastic to a board underneath. I had to cut and install a molex to thread it through

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I wouldn't expect it to get worse. But if you're worried you might put extra stress on that corner lifting and lowering the playfield (applying pressure directly to that corner), I suppose you could add a metal backing plate and epoxy it on the backside straddling the crack. I love J-B weld.

I had an interesting lamp board repair recently. Lamp board would sporadically lose all lamps that were driven by u4. It was all or nothing, and the lamps would come and go with pressing/flexing on u4 (u4 was already socketed). Poking around on the bench revealed that r71 was cracked, which sends the PD3 signal to u4, and flexing the board would temporarily connect r71 back together.

Alright working on an Evil Knievel, just installed a new brigde recfiter and new MPU and game still isn't booting. I am getting six flashes on MPU..

Check for 43 volts on the rectifier board (TP5) and 21.5 volts at TP3 on the MPU. Fuse F4 good?

Yeah fuse is good, I'll check later today.

I didn't check to see if that tab had continuity to the mount. It has it to the socket though, so is the assumption that it would to the mount, right? Either way, I did it the old fashioned way and soldered it to the bracket where the screw is because I already had my old reference PF and it's cleaner and I wouldn't introduce another way to short out that lamps. I will use at least some of those tabs to solder resistors on to since there are a couple handfuls of lamps that flicker with LEDs.

Damn Scott, you were right. The tab is isolated from the mount so none of the lamps would have gotten any voltage at all! Looks like I will have more soldering to do...I'm such an idiot.

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Does anyone know the part number for the entire pop bumper switch stack on a Power Play? I can't find a number and I don't see anything that looks just like that part at the usual pinball retail websites. I have one pop bumper that seems sluggish no matter how much cleaning or fiddling I do with the gap. Want to try replacing it.

Here ya go (from the Bally Parts Manual that includes Power Play)....
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Thank you! Very helpful. I was able to confirm the part number is AS-2911-1 and Marco's carries a substitute.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/ASW-A110-5