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(Topic ID: 85292)

Bally/Stern AS-2518 Club !


By mof

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,418 posts
  • 286 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 days ago by barakandl
  • Topic is favorited by 233 Pinsiders

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There are 2418 posts in this topic. You are on page 49 of 49.
#2401 15 days ago

Fixing up an extra Bally -35 board for a friend. He has a Power Play that had a -17 board (totally ruined by battery corrosion) running a 2716 ROM in U2 and a 2716 in U6. I verified the contents of the 2716 chips and they check out. It looks like there are a couple variations on the jumper settings for running the 2716 chips but it looks like these may be the ones to use:

1-5,2-4,7-8,10-12,11-29,13a-14,16a-18,31-32,33-35 cut 13-15

Is anyone else running a pair of 2716 chips in U2 and U6 and if so can you confirm the jumpers above are correct? One of the sites mentioned using 11-25 instead of 11-29

#2402 15 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Fixing up an extra Bally -35 board for a friend. He has a Power Play that had a -17 board (totally ruined by battery corrosion) running a 2716 ROM in U2 and a 2716 in U6. I verified the contents of the 2716 chips and they check out. It looks like there are a couple variations on the jumper settings for running the 2716 chips but it looks like these may be the ones to use:
1-5,2-4,7-8,10-12,11-29,13a-14,16a-18,31-32,33-35 cut 13-15
Is anyone else running a pair of 2716 chips in U2 and U6 and if so can you confirm the jumpers above are correct? One of the sites mentioned using 11-25 instead of 11-29

Skateball B all 2716 Eproms: E1-E5,E2-E4,E7-E8,E11-E25,E10-E12,E13A-E14,
------------------------------ E31-E32,E33-E34,E16A-E19,E26-E29,E28-E30.

#2403 15 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

One of the sites mentioned using 11-25 instead of 11-29

If you want to use the U2 socket, E11 should go to E29 so that U2 is enabled at address range $1000-$17FF. This will actually mirror the U1 socket.
Connecting E11 to E25 enables the U2 socket for address space $5000-$57FF which is not how Power Play (-17 games) are coded. In this case you would have to install the 2716 at U1 instead. This configuration might be preferred because you could also run the board with early -35 based games using 2716's at U1, U2 and U6 without changing jumpers.

#2404 10 days ago

I’m putting the final touches on the top side of a Harlem Globetrotters playfield swap. The first picture is from the local CL ad.

It has a perfect original backglass and solid cabinet.

I swapped in a clear coated playfield from Ballylama, plus apron cards and spinner decals from Upkick Pinball. I used solder tabs and ran a whole new under-playfield braid with corresponding colored wire bought from the local Ace hardware store.

I still have a few coils to replace and some board work to finish up.

I did run the harness through the dishwasher and had great results.

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#2405 10 days ago

Sweetness!

Always wanted to own a Globetrotters.

Looks like I might have a line on a clean EK...will find out tomorrow if I can go and grab it.

#2406 9 days ago

Hi all,
On my EBD, when I activate the flippers, the GI slightly flickers. It is definitely not a big deal (I guess I'm the only one to notice at home), but still annoys me. It is visible especially in the bad box where I installed leds... any advice ?
Thanks!

#2407 9 days ago
Quoted from matiou:

Hi all,
On my EBD, when I activate the flippers, the GI slightly flickers... It is visible especially in the bad box where I installed leds... any advice ?
Thanks!

The current surge on the transformer from the flippers causes a dip in G.I voltage. The only way you can eliminate this is to power the G.I. from a separate source.

#2408 9 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

The current surge on the transformer from the flippers causes a dip in G.I voltage. The only way you can eliminate this is to power the G.I. from a separate source.

It'll be interesting to see if that little phenomenon goes away when this replacement Bally transformer hits the market later this year:

https://www.facebook.com/homepin.factory/photos/a.111986629573489/830968014342010/

#2409 9 days ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

It'll be interesting to see if that little phenomenon goes away when this replacement Bally transformer hits the market later this year:

I don't expect it to make any difference.
Using LEDs makes it worse because they don't have any light persistence like incandescents do.

#2410 9 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

I don't expect it to make any difference.
Using LEDs makes it worse because they don't have any light persistence like incandescents do.

I confirm... I only found out when I installed leds in my backbox.

#2411 9 days ago

Hi all, does anyone have a couple bally drop target coil brackets laying around they could part with? I have a project game and those brackets are missing.

Or if there are any alternates I could use, that would be helpful as well. Thanks!

#2412 8 days ago

I put 5v dc power supplies into games i want to run the GI on LED lamps. I don't like the 120hz strobe and the flipper dim out. In a bally game because GI is across earth it is a bit of a chore to install and fuse. Wms / sega / de / stern very easy install.

5vdc is plenty to light up the smd type LED lamps. Can usually adjust up to about 5.4vdc or so.
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#2413 8 days ago
Quoted from barakandl:

I put 5v dc power supplies into games i want to run the GI on LED lamps. I don't like the 120hz strobe and the flipper dim out. In a bally game because GI is across earth it is a bit of a chore to install and fuse. Wms / sega / de / stern very easy install.
5vdc is plenty to light up the smd type LED lamps. Can usually adjust up to about 5.4vdc or so.
[quoted image]

i have the same PSU on my shelf waiting to be installed in my QS for the same purpose

#2414 7 days ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

i have the same PSU on my shelf waiting to be installed in my QS for the same purpose

I have been using the SSS fuse card so I can fuse the switcher mode ps of each individual GI string plus add a connector point so the transformer can still easily come out. 1.5a x4 is working fine. I have a two 'Z' connector for the non fused side again so the transformer easily comes out. To go back to normal stock transformer have to pull the crimp pins out of the new added connectors and slide it back into the rectifier plug.

In WMS/DE/Sega/Stern games just put the switcher ps near the transformer and add a plug that mates with the connector already there. Then you can go back to the stock transformer just by moving the connector over. Change the fuse values to be at least the rating on the power supply, but can go much lower with LED lamps.

#2415 7 days ago

What tool(s) and/or method(s) do you guys use to cut down a connector plug housing? I've got a ton of 15 and 20 pin .0156" connectors but need to replace an 18 pin one. I ordered some 18 pinners this afternoon to stock up on but if I can trim down one of my 20 pin connectors and not have it look like a total hack job, I can finish this re-pinning tonight. Thanx!

#2416 7 days ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

What tool(s) and/or method(s) do you guys use to cut down a connector plug housing? I've got a ton of 15 and 20 pin .0156" connectors but need to replace an 18 pin one. I ordered some 18 pinners this afternoon to stock up on but if I can trim down one of my 20 pin connectors and not have it look like a total hack job, I can finish this re-pinning tonight. Thanx!

I use a box cutter or utility blade to score what will become the outside edge of my smaller connector. Then I snap that section off and clean up whatever isn’t flush on the edge.

#2417 7 days ago
Quoted from EEE:

I use a box cutter or utility blade to score what will become the outside edge of my smaller connector. Then I snap that section off and clean up whatever isn’t flush on the edge.

Utility knife then a bit of sandpaper or file to smooth.

Dremel cutting disc also works fine if you have a way to secure the end you want to keep.

#2418 6 days ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

What tool(s) and/or method(s) do you guys use to cut down a connector plug housing? I've got a ton of 15 and 20 pin .0156" connectors but need to replace an 18 pin one. I ordered some 18 pinners this afternoon to stock up on but if I can trim down one of my 20 pin connectors and not have it look like a total hack job, I can finish this re-pinning tonight. Thanx!

My hakko snipper does a fine job and hacking down larger housings into smaller ones.

You can go the other way too joining two housing together by roughing up the ends with sand paper. Dot of super glue. Clamp overnight. I have some super glued together that has gone through tons of cycles on test gear without breaking.

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There are 2418 posts in this topic. You are on page 49 of 49.

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