(Topic ID: 85292)

Bally/Stern AS-2518 Club !

By mof

10 years ago


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There are 3,868 posts in this topic. You are on page 45 of 78.
#2201 3 years ago

Has anyone dealt with the Bally 6802 boardset? I went to a customer's house last night to clean/rerubber/etc and saw the board looks like a -17/-35, but actually has a 5114 memory chip instead of a 5101. Has anyone used a 5114 NVRAM in one of these before? His battery had just started leaking and I abated the minor surface damage - but want to see if I can go the NVRAM route or the remote battery route.

Thanks in advance!

#2202 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Give us some background - is one of them faulty, and which one?
If they're not faulty, I would not replace them.
The originals are 10 amp bridge rectifiers. They're long obsolete. The ones Marco is selling model KBPC802 are 8 amps, not 10 amps.
Physical size wise, these are all drop in replacements but are only 8 amps max (highest you can get in this physical size)
https://au.rs-online.com/web/c/semiconductors/discrete-semiconductors/bridge-rectifiers/?applied-dimensions=4294809338,4294565700,4294876504,4294874820,4294876509,4294874899,4294874849
If the BR1 feature lamp bridge has blown, replace it with one of the originals from BR2 or BR3 and install an 8 amp at BR2 or BR3. You really want a 10 amp bridge at BR1 because of the high current draw.
Screw the rectifier board with bridges in place first, then solder them so there's no stress on the joints.
Alternatively some people solder the big 35 amp bridges on the top side of the board, but you must make sure to effectively thermally cool it with a decent heatsink because it will get HOT.

Thank you, nice response.

I have actually tested all 3 bridges and they give a reading of around .498 on both positive and negative side so based on your advise above, I think I'll leave them in place.

The board itself is pretty messy and has swelling so I'm thinking of taking it to someone to clean up. Get it re-pinned and fixed. Photo attached for feedback.

I will take a screen shot of your advise to show as it sounds like if they don't need to be replaced.....don't!

Also, can I just presume that after all this digging, that having a couple burnt connectors is really the real problem here as to why I have lost lights?!? Sorry for fuzzy photos, but you get the idea.

105023514_3083696975048425_5565168204379476462_n (resized).jpg105023514_3083696975048425_5565168204379476462_n (resized).jpg104154367_686499748563945_6834799163339570806_n (resized).jpg104154367_686499748563945_6834799163339570806_n (resized).jpg104393815_692528554626131_3565153482556443362_n (resized).jpg104393815_692528554626131_3565153482556443362_n (resized).jpg104563488_717739549079542_8756597384447242518_n (resized).jpg104563488_717739549079542_8756597384447242518_n (resized).jpg
#2203 3 years ago
Quoted from jardine:

Also, can I just presume that after all this digging, that having a couple burnt connectors is really the real problem here as to why I have lost lights?!? Sorry for fuzzy photos, but you get the idea.

Yes, the burnt connectors are potentially your problem. But it's easy enough to confirm if you have voltage at the rectifier board and no voltage at the playfield/backbox.

BTW, it looks like someone has hooked up an external bridge on BR3 (for the solenoids) so I presume that bridge is faulty. Replace it with any of the 8 amp bridges linked in my previous post.

Also, to properly test BR1 and BR3 you should temporarily unsolder one leg of resistor R2 and R1 respectively - they are across the bridges and will tamper with the readings.

#2204 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Yes, the burnt connectors are potentially your problem. But it's easy enough to confirm if you have voltage at the rectifier board and no voltage at the playfield/backbox.
BTW, it looks like someone has hooked up an external bridge on BR3 (for the solenoids) so I presume that bridge is faulty. Replace it with any of the 8 amp bridges linked in my previous post.
Also, to properly test BR1 and BR3 you should temporarily unsolder one leg of resistor R2 and R1 respectively - they are across the bridges and will tamper with the readings.

I actually tested the external one and readings were within range!

I've seen machines with all 3 bridge rectifiers external like this before. Most screwed into the side of the headbox just above the board. Is this not standard?

#2205 3 years ago
Quoted from jardine:

I've seen machines with all 3 bridge rectifiers external like this before. Most screwed into the side of the headbox just above the board. Is this not standard?

They never left the factory that way. The bridges are mounted on the backside of the rectifier board. Any bridge you see on these machines mounted off board with wires is somebodys attempt at a repair.

#2206 3 years ago

I have a bad C32 on my 2518-35. BOM calls out .003uF - 1kv. Can I successfully replace it with a .0022uF - 1kv which I have in my spare parts supply?

#2207 3 years ago
Quoted from JethroP:

I have a bad C32 on my 2518-35. BOM calls out .003uF - 1kv. Can I successfully replace it with a .0022uF - 1kv which I have in my spare parts supply?

I just checked about 15 old MPU boards in my stock and they all have 1kV caps there except for one Stern MPU-200 board that has a 100V cap fitted there from factory.

In any case, I think you should be ok to use a 0.0022uF 1kV cap for C32.

#2208 3 years ago

Picked up a SBM today

51233A8D-B91D-4D54-B6E7-B7C2A6BE9961 (resized).jpeg51233A8D-B91D-4D54-B6E7-B7C2A6BE9961 (resized).jpeg
#2209 3 years ago

Working on a KISS. Sat in someone's basement for years, then in a shed. Now I'm bringing it back from the dead.

The MOV is blown. I'll replace that. Should the line filter be done at the same time? Or would these items not be related?

#2210 3 years ago
Quoted from djblouw:

The MOV is blown. I'll replace that. Should the line filter be done at the same time? Or would these items not be related?

I have done both, most often the MOV blow but the line filter is fine but i know have both in stock so when i get in there I just replace both for good measure. I buy a several 5VK1 line filters and Varistors from digikey at a time to use in projects.

#2211 3 years ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

I have done both, most often the MOV blow but the line filter is fine but i know have both in stock so when i get in there I just replace both for good measure. I buy a several 5VK1 line filters and Varistors from digikey at a time to use in projects.

Thanks for the info. Any pinball parts suppliers that carry these? I couldn't find them in a quick search. I'll try to buy from them first, as I'm usually ordering other stuff as well.

#2212 3 years ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Thanks for the info. Any pinball parts suppliers that carry these? I couldn't find them in a quick search. I'll try to buy from them first, as I'm usually ordering other stuff as well.

for sure, both pbl and marcos carries "line filter" and "varistor". Not exactly the same model but I am sure they work also.

#2213 3 years ago

I'm having trouble with my Embryon auxiliary lamps (ie the wheel lamps, single drop target lamps, flipsave etc). They are all out.
I have a Future Spa next door and I was wondering if I could put that auxiliary lamp board (which is a AS-2518-43) into my Embryon (which is a AS-2518-52) to see if the problem is with the board?
Hopefully one of you bally experts can help!

#2214 3 years ago
Quoted from dluth:

I'm having trouble with my Embryon auxiliary lamps (ie the wheel lamps, single drop target lamps, flipsave etc). They are all out.
I have a Future Spa next door and I was wondering if I could put that auxiliary lamp board (which is a AS-2518-43) into my Embryon (which is a AS-2518-52) to see if the problem is with the board?
Hopefully one of you bally experts can help!

What about the ground to the AUX board.

#2215 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

What about the ground to the AUX board.

Thanks - good to start with the simple things!
I discovered there is no continuity between the ground braid and TP2 where there is supposed to be. Also no continuity between the back plate and the ground braid. I can't see where ground is supposed to connect to this which I assume it is supposed to?

Embryon Aux (resized).jpgEmbryon Aux (resized).jpg
#2216 3 years ago
Quoted from dluth:

Thanks - good to start with the simple things!
I discovered there is no continuity between the ground braid and TP2 where there is supposed to be. Also no continuity between the back plate and the ground braid. I can't see where ground is supposed to connect to this which I assume it is supposed to?
[quoted image]

Test: A9J1-15 wire (58) White/Black to A5J4-11 (58) White/Black to A2J3-4 (58) White/Black.
------A9J1-15 usually burns.

#2217 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Test: A9J1-15 wire (58) White/Black to A5J4-11 (58) White/Black to A2J3-4 (58) White/Black.
------A9J1-15 usually burns.

There's no continuity between the A9J1-15 wire and the A9 board so that's the issue. I reseated the wire and have got all my lamps back. Thanks for pointing out a place to start and saving me a heap of time.

#2218 3 years ago

For those interested:
Bally High Voltage Hardware parts breakdown.
IMG_0008[1] (resized).JPGIMG_0008[1] (resized).JPG
1)Screws ( up from bottom of PCB ).
2) PCB board.
3) Washers mounted on top side of PCB.
4) Heatsink...

#2219 3 years ago

Snap! These break easily. Broke 2 while cleaning the backboard of my Centaur II. Does anybody know if they are available somewhere?

Not sure what they're called, but they are the things that make sure that only a text (tilt, extra ball, et cetera) lights up when the controlled lamp behind the backglass is on.

20200630_183446 (resized).jpg20200630_183446 (resized).jpg

#2220 3 years ago
Quoted from Jappie:

Snap! These break easily. Broke 2 while cleaning the backboard of my Centaur II. Does anybody know if they are available somewhere?
Not sure what they're called, but they are the things that make sure that only a text (tilt, extra ball, et cetera) lights up when the controlled lamp behind the backglass is on.
[quoted image]

Light baffle. Pinball Life sells some different versions.

If you have access to a 3D printer you can make your own.

#2221 3 years ago
Quoted from Jappie:

Snap! These break easily. Broke 2 while cleaning the backboard of my Centaur II. Does anybody know if they are available somewhere? Not sure what they're called, but they are the things that make sure that only a text (tilt, extra ball, et cetera) lights up when the controlled lamp behind the backglass is on.

Also called Light Baffles. If you don't have access to a 3D printer or files for the various sizes, you can also buy them from Marco's:

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=light+baffle

#2222 3 years ago

Question for the guru's - I've got a Bally 7 digit display (1984 EBD) that works, but the two commas flicker and look a tad brighter than the commas in the other 3 score displays. All eight segments for all 7 digits work fine and look normal. Moving the displays around, the problem follows the display. The PCB looks very clean - no burned parts and no burn / overheated areas on the PCB itself.

Does anyone know what components on the display PCB drive the commas? When I have time later tonight, first things I'll do on the bench are:

- reflow solder on the header pins
- change out all of the 1/4W 100K resistors for 1/2W 100K.

Short of shotgunning the issue, I'd like to hone in on the actual parts responsible for the commas if anyone knows. Thanx...

#2223 3 years ago

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-7-digit-display-comma-stuck-on

Guessing q22 if they're brighter than normal but that thread has some other culprits to try as well.

#2224 3 years ago

I need to find the correct nyliner for my Mr. and Mrs. Pac-man. The top flipper is sticking and come to find out it's just metal against metal and that piece is missing.

Can anyone confirm the attached is correct?

Screenshot_20200702-114008_Chrome (resized).jpgScreenshot_20200702-114008_Chrome (resized).jpg
#2225 3 years ago

Yes, it is correct...

Bally_Flipper_assy (resized).jpgBally_Flipper_assy (resized).jpg
#2226 3 years ago

I am looking for "split metal post" (if that the right names for it), the ones that stack on top of each other, usually with a clear plastic sandwiched below the silkscreened plastic.
I can't find them anywhere though i may be looking for the wrong name?

Below pictures (borrows from one of HEP project)

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

#2227 3 years ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

Yes, it is correct...
[quoted image]

Appreciate it!

#2228 3 years ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

I am looking for "split metal post" (if that the right names for it), the ones that stack on top of each other, usually with a clear plastic sandwiched below the silkscreened plastic.
I can't find them anywhere though i may be looking for the wrong name?
Below pictures (borrows from one of HEP project)
[quoted image]

Two separate items.
1) bottom is a metal bell spacer...
--- Williams' ref. it as a Support Post.
--- Williams Part No.
--- 20-8926 Height 35/64"
2) top piece is a spacer...
--- Bally ref. it as Support Spacer
--- Bally Part No.
--- C-942 + length clarification.

#2229 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Two separate items.
1) bottom is a metal bell spacer...
--- Williams' ref. it as a Support Post.
--- Williams Part No.
--- 20-8926 Height 35/64"

right, these seems to be the one, but unavailable anywhere for sale right?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-8926

#2230 3 years ago

Ran into an odd issue on a Bally -35 MPU board. It was working perfectly in the game but after a few weeks would no longer boot. It has all new DIP sockets and NVRAM. Now I get the first flicker and three flashes. Put in Leon’s test ROM and all looked good except pin 2 on U10. It would never go high during the test but all the other outputs on both PIA chips were fine. Also the PIA chips tested good. I unsoldered on lead of CR43 and then pin 2 of U10 would pulse high as expected. Put the original ROM chips back in and with CR43 still disconnected it boots. This is all with the board on the bench now. First time I’ve run into an issue like this an wanted to see if anyone else has and what you found.

#2231 3 years ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

right, these seems to be the one, but unavailable anywhere for sale right?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-8926

Those are the narrow version that Williams used as the
top spacers/bottom spacers on their games...
Bally used a wider diameter part. But it is the "right family"
for the part.

#2234 3 years ago

If you aren't a purist (i.e., they are not OEM pinball parts), you can find nylon and aluminum spacers on eBay. They look and work great.

Screen Shot 2020-07-02 at 8.54.48 PM (resized).pngScreen Shot 2020-07-02 at 8.54.48 PM (resized).png

#2235 3 years ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

right, these seems to be the one, but unavailable anywhere for sale right?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-8926

I found this Bally part No. It is for the top support
Metal post part No. M-1337. narrow style.

#2236 3 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Put the original ROM chips back in and with CR43 still connected it boots.

You mean CR43 still "disconnected"?
The hardware of the PIA port A pins vs the port B pins is different. Note the below paragraph in the 6821 PIA specs.
An external short on one of the port A pins will cause the PIA to fail the Bally power on self test. However an external short on a port B pin will pass the test.

PIA_Ports1.jpgPIA_Ports1.jpg

#2237 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

You mean C43 still "disconnected"?
The hardware of the PIA port A pins vs the port B pins is different. Note the below paragraph in the 6821 PIA specs.
An external short on one of the port A wils will cause the PIA to fail the Bally power on self test. However an external short on a port B pin will pass the test.
[quoted image]

Yes. With CR43 disconnected. What I was thinking as I wrote that post but typed it wrong. It is on Port A so that explains it. Going to find what is dragging that line down.

I hadn’t seen that note or run into this one before so thanks for the response!

#2238 3 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Yes. With CR43 disconnected. What I was thinking as I wrote that post but typed it wrong. It is on Port A so that explains it. Going to find what is dragging that line down.
I hadn’t seen that note or run into this one before so thanks for the response!

I isolated the problem to C30 which is a 390pf axial capacitor. Normally that would read open with the ohm meter but instead it read as a 2.3K ohm resistor! This is the first one I've seen of that style fail like that. Replaced it with the correct part and board is fixed. Just thought I would share the resolution as it may help one of you out.

#2239 3 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I isolated the problem to C30 which is a 390pf axial capacitor.

Any corrosion on that capacitor?
It's rare, but I've seen them fail - also happens to the 470pf capacitors on the PIA port pins.

#2240 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Any corrosion on that capacitor?
It's rare, but I've seen them fail - also happens to the 470pf capacitors on the PIA port pins.

There was a little bit of corrosion on it. Definitely something to watch out for! Just wanted to post the resolution to close the loop on this repair. Will be sure to check for things like this on future repairs.

#2241 3 years ago

Anyone know what size/thread screw Bally used for Switch Retainer Brackets?

Just finished up the Flipper Rebuilds on my Paragon and the new switches on the main flippers are too thick and I can't land them with the original screws. Nothing in fine thread and that small at my local Hardware Stores.

Thanks in advance for the help.

#2242 3 years ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Anyone know what size/thread screw Bally used for Switch Retainer Brackets?
Just finished up the Flipper Rebuilds on my Paragon and the new switches on the main flippers are too thick and I can't land them with the original screws. Nothing in fine thread and that small at my local Hardware Stores.
Thanks in advance for the help.

Metal switch screws are 5-40th thread + head type +length.

#2243 3 years ago

Thanks Vec-Tor.

Ordered up some 1" and 1 1/8" from Marco. One of those two should fix me up.

#2244 3 years ago

I’m having a problem with one of my Bally Future Spa displays. My 10’s digit isn’t working correctly. I’ve swapped the display around and the problem follows with the display. I’ve already put in a new level shifter and digit driver at Q2 and Q8. I’ve also put in a new decoder chip. According to the pinwiki...

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Display.28s.29_flicker

...my next step would be to replace the segment drivers at Q13 through Q19, but as you can see from the pictures some of the segments work randomly when showing different digits.

Has anyone else ran onto this problem? I have enough segment drivers to replace all of them but don’t want to waste my time if anyone knows that won’t help this particular problem.

Thanks.

A32C9371-0A9A-4973-991F-00D60F1C6867 (resized).jpegA32C9371-0A9A-4973-991F-00D60F1C6867 (resized).jpeg583EB1E5-62BF-4FCF-B3F1-1E20034CE0BC (resized).jpeg583EB1E5-62BF-4FCF-B3F1-1E20034CE0BC (resized).jpeg136F9458-E26E-4F6A-9A40-D844DCC0C863 (resized).jpeg136F9458-E26E-4F6A-9A40-D844DCC0C863 (resized).jpeg73DAC343-815C-4FF4-A37D-065FD9962969 (resized).jpeg73DAC343-815C-4FF4-A37D-065FD9962969 (resized).jpegA73634C0-4AC9-4FD7-9BD0-B91C6154130E (resized).jpegA73634C0-4AC9-4FD7-9BD0-B91C6154130E (resized).jpeg9EFCF305-FC07-402C-88DE-210ED659DA1A (resized).jpeg9EFCF305-FC07-402C-88DE-210ED659DA1A (resized).jpegA668BFB6-8226-44C5-8357-D3D249293268 (resized).jpegA668BFB6-8226-44C5-8357-D3D249293268 (resized).jpegFD8F95F8-EA56-4DF5-AADA-43D6000DF0B9 (resized).jpegFD8F95F8-EA56-4DF5-AADA-43D6000DF0B9 (resized).jpegE98AF695-34D9-4F72-9DDE-D0BE7CB2F600 (resized).jpegE98AF695-34D9-4F72-9DDE-D0BE7CB2F600 (resized).jpegF9FD343F-C163-4C98-AA89-4083C932C09E (resized).jpegF9FD343F-C163-4C98-AA89-4083C932C09E (resized).jpeg
#2245 3 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

I’m having a problem with one of my Bally Future Spa displays. My 10’s digit isn’t working correctly. I’ve swapped the display around and the problem follows with the display. I’ve already put in a new level shifter and digit driver at Q2 and Q8. I’ve also put in a new decoder chip. According to the pinwiki...
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Display.28s.29_flicker
...my next step would be to replace the segment drivers at Q13 through Q19, but as you can see from the pictures some of the segments work randomly when showing different digits.
Has anyone else ran onto this problem? I have enough segment drivers to replace all of them but don’t want to waste my time if anyone knows that won’t help this particular problem.
Thanks.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Units digit is drawing all the juice? Isolate the units digit and see if that fixes the tens digit.

#2246 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Units digit is drawing all the juice? Isolate the units digit and see if that fixes the tens digit.

How would I go about isolating that unit digit?

#2247 3 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

I have enough segment drivers to replace all of them but

I believe you can test the segment drivers so not to unnecessarily replace any good ones. Also, check for cold solder joints especially at the header pins and finger leads on the glass. Check for resistors gone bad too.

#2248 3 years ago
Quoted from JethroP:

I believe you can test the segment drivers so not to unnecessarily replace any good ones. Also, check for cold solder joints especially at the header pins and finger leads on the glass. Check for resistors gone bad too.

$11 for a complete kit shipped, I just do them all.

#2249 3 years ago
Quoted from Jakers:

How would I go about isolating that unit digit?

R3 is a 100K resistor in the 10's digit driver circuit. Try replacing that. The 100K resistors (R1,3,5,7,9, and 11) sometimes go bad, turning the digit off. R3 could be flaky on your board.

#2250 3 years ago

Always check all the 100K digit resistors.
Most of the time these go out of spec or get burned.

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