Yeah I’ll repin it once I figure this out. Pulling the pins out of the housing kind of ruins the pins.

This is a universal board and it has an extra pin on J1

White wire is a different color because someone lengthening it with a different color and the connector has an extra slot not being used.

If you have the proper tools you can usually release the pins without destroying them. A really useful set is up on Amazon and covers lots of other connectors as well:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZC1V2W6

Yeah I’ve got some of those, but it still seems to bend them a little especially as much as I was removing them. Thanks!

FTR, earlier revisions of this board had 8 pins. Later revisions had 9. The 9th pin was another GI Lamp out (I believe, maybe Feature Lamp)? Depending on your game, your game may not use all 9 pins. (i.e. Meteor has only 8.)

Yeah my game doesn’t use the 9pin..

make sure to use key pins on the rectifier board. Plugging the connectors in here wrong can blow up every light bulb or worse. When using a rectifier with a 9pin J1 in game only using 8pin houisng, as long as the key is in the right place you cannot plug this connector in wrong unless you really try hard to do so.

Hey guys. Here's a question for you.

I'm need to build a test bench. I'd like to be able to swap components out but ultimately drive some 7 segment displays somehow on a backboard.

My thought is, I'd use an Alltek with a test board, some PinScore LED 7-segment displays, power it with a mountable 5V power supply.
The ZC will need a 48V source.

How would you guys recommend I power all this up to fool it into booting?

Thanks!

Save money, get a Weebly MPU. Can also then run test ROM software.

I built a test fixture from bits of a beat to hell silverball mania that got parted out years ago. mounted everything to a board that then mounts to the wall. Used the backbox wiring harness and transformer, pcb mounting brackets, etc. Then all the outputs to leds on protoboard. switch matrix on with little 5mm tactile switches. Then you can game software test mode to check displays, sound, mpus, driver boards, etc in real pinball like situations.

Are you using a Bally transformer? I'm wondering if I could get away with something lower profile given we're only using HV for zero crossing and the rest is all 5V.

You can get away with less voltage, the Zero Crossing detector on the MPU board just needs to see the Z.C voltage swing up above 5 volts (note the MPU board halves the voltage between the J4 input pin and the Z.C detector).

You should be able to use an off the shelf 24V transformer hooked up to a bride rectifier.

BTW, +1 on the Weebly board, you'll be able to put custom test ROMs on it.

Yes I am using a Bally transformer. That and the backbox wiring harness that mates with it saved me from creating a lot of custom wiring. I have an old prototype MPU on the fixture just to keep it running. Waiting on DHL box to build more MPUs.
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Anyone ever try to remotely mount the volume trim pot? Like run three wires (in/ground/out) from the sound board to a larger size potentiometer of equal value (1k says schem.) and mount just inside the coin door?
It'd be nice to not have to remove the bglass when I want to adjust the volume. -35 specifically (future spa)

The trimmer pot is electrically before the amplifier on the sound board. If you wire a volume pot within the cabinet connected to the trimmer pot location, you will likely pick up electrical noise that the amplifier will amplify.

It's better that you follow the way it was done from Xenon onwards using a 100 ohm 5 watt potentiometer connected to the speaker output. It will also save you running wires to the sound board in the head.

This is my test cabinet....
An old Xenon machine.
Cabinet was destroid by water, playfield bare to the wood all the way.
Playfield parts used in other Xenon games.
Backglass very bad.
Only the boards, wires and lamps could be used.

I even got a special test eprom in co-operation with Scott Charles.
To test the displays, lamp driver boards and solenoid boards with a single eprom in U6.

Peter

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Is that test ROM available?

In my case, I only need to be able to test display functionality, but I must say, that is an amazing test system. Wow.

Clever use of the wall, although my display test system needs to be portable as possible. I'll need to think through how to pull that off!

I use a little display tester PCB, an old computer power supply, and a tiny stepper PCB to generate the HV needed to drive the gas displays. Here's a video of it:

Just further to my previous post re the photo below. My Marco order came (I'm in Australia so had to combine shipping with others and send to a PO Box within US to send to me....anyway..) and I got the 10/32 posts as recommended.

They are one hell of a tight fit?!?!

Did I order wrong and should have gone 8/32? The original nuts underneath don't screw into new the 10/32 I ordered?

Or....do i just maybe open the hole slightly and screw through the existing holes? Wondering if the wood has shrunk slightly making the current holes that little bit tighter than normal and just drilling slightly to open is the way to go.

The other issue is the the 10/32 posts have the little "washer" at the base of them, making them match my originals. I can't find any 8/32 with this same look.

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I have seen some slick ones that look like a briefcase. Main use of mine is to test all outputs and burn in replacement boards, so it doesn't leave the house.

Stick with the 10/32's, they'll take a beating better than the 8/32's. You need to drill out the holes a little bit for 10/32 and you should be able to buy the correct size nuts locally. Don't forget to put a washer between the playfield and post so the force of the ball hitting it is spread out over a larger area.

The old version is on PinWiki:
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Accessing_Bookkeeping_and_Diagnostic_Modes
Direct link:
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/3/36/Sco_testrom.zip

It's been updated since though.

Thanks mate!

This group is really quite good!! I've posted in other clubs about questions or help and you get no answers at all....you guys rock!!

Yes, it is available. (version 8 actualy)
I've been using the test file for some time now.
It serves it's purpose perfectly.
I've asked Scot: "Do you mind if I share this file with other people?"
His reply was: "Nope, go ahead. It was written to be used."

So here is a download link for the file:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1YhCmR23TABQAUylleguAHQiZQOx-g3_L
Instructions are in the txt file within the zip.

Peter

dothedoo to drill out the holes a little more...go from underneath up as opposed from topside down?

Does it have a single lamp test or any kind of advanced lamp testing included? That is one thing kind of tough with the test fixture I struggle with

Just because all the lamps turn on and off in test mode does not mean the lamps are working 100%. I have a few attract modes sequence memorized how they should look on my LED readout board and in Kiss and Future Spa the cycle the aux lamps in a logical order during attract mode which is nice.

Topside down (may splinter a bit underneath) or go both ways and meet in the middle.

Yes it does From the readme:

individual lamp test - advances through Q1-Q60 on lamp driver board, pause with s33 press
press test switch

*if dip #9 set ON:
aux lamp driver test - advances through Q1-Q32 on aux lamp driver board, pause with s33 press

Hey I just joined the club with a star trek. Old battery in it and I want to remove it so it will play for years to come.if I remove it but don't replace it right now will the game function? And if so just cut it off the board? Thanks.

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Game should work fine, but you won't save high scores, credits and such.

Yes and yes. But without the battery it won’t retain the high score, credits and any settings made via the coin door test button.

Thank you!

Back to some trouble shooting!!! Why can't these things ever just go back the way they were before you did something simple like a flipper rebuild!!

As above, on my Harlem, the 2 left flippers no longer work? Right does. Just did a flipper rebuild, nothing major?

Checked fuse underneath, tested fine. Checked the coils, 43v on all...so good there.

Remind me how I make the coils fire when grounding? Which lug do I touch to see if they fire?

Or is it something else I need to look at as well.

Thanks guys.

Note: also lost all my insert lights...only mentioning in case it is related?!?

Could it be a simple case of the EOS switch not closing tightly enough?

Looks to be making good contact but will triple check again.

Went into test and all coils fired except the mentioned flippers!

check driver board j2 and j1 for broken solder joints or plug problems.

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Connectors look ok. Gave them a clean and reseated.

Flippers still not working

Is there much info in Pinwiki on this? I couldn't find really all that much when it came to trouble shooting?!? Guess that's why I'm just asking in here.

1) Check back of PCB... any melted traces burns... Etc,etc,etc.
2) +43 volts to flippers O.K.
3) Cabinet flipper buttons contact ( 70 ) orange wire is ground.
4) Test flipper coils by using a long wire and short cabinet wire [ orange ] (70)
--- to flipper coils [anode side of diodes ] flippers should fire!
5) If not, check bridge power supply for continuity of A2J2-pin9 flip sw ret.

One more on the driver board. If the EOS is mis adjusted the traces around the relay can get vaporized. Visual inspection should show if this is a problem. On the bottom of the driver board around the ice cube relay.

Did a flipper rebuild on my Bally star ttrek . As I played the right flipper slowly has creeped up to a higher resting position. What do I need to fix? Thanks .

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Put it back into position and tighten the hex nut even more.

Need to tighten the allen head set screw... maybe add a little loctite to the threads...
re-dress the metal flipper shaft.

If all of the above don't do the trick, the flipper shaft may have worn spots in them from years of tightening/retightening. Replace the flipper bats (the old Ballys come attached to new shafts) and get several new allen screws - less than $10 to replace both flippers.

Thanks everyone. Will get it done !

As Mathazar said, if the flipper shaft has grooves from previous use, the bat will continue to slip until the set screws are in the grooves.

Maybe you used the left flipper on the right side. Try swapping them and see if the grooves match the alignment.

Another option is to grind the shaft and remove the old grooves.

Had the same issue. Cleaning up the shaft with a metal file did the trick.

just finished the left and right bracket for bally drop targets P-7939-1 in regular and reinforced in 2 different options.

https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinksdrops&sort=newest

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That's great. This is a long overdue needed part.

Thanks for doing this swinks