(Topic ID: 85292)

Bally/Stern AS-2518 Club !


By mof

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,153 posts
  • 277 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by guitarded
  • Topic is favorited by 219 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 447 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

IMG_8409 (resized).jpg
screen-capture-7 (resized).png
IMG_20200529_223626 (resized).jpg
20200527_022652 (resized).jpg
IMG_20200522_193652 (resized).jpg
posts (resized).jpg
20190917_213022a (resized).jpg
20190917_212834a (resized).jpg
20190917_212801a (resized).jpg
20200518_131335 (resized).jpg
pasted_image (resized).png
2A78C4C0-43F6-4695-84DD-20AC6BBC9A96 (resized).jpeg
F3AF5BC5-DF67-41F0-9E9F-360D414BA32F (resized).jpeg
0EB18A83-A46D-4560-BAE4-4A827D6BA801 (resized).jpeg
57B47240-381C-4B47-9967-B75087ADB04B (resized).jpeg
343AE4A8-543C-448F-A988-6B92193C996C.jpeg

There are 2153 posts in this topic. You are on page 43 of 44.
#2101 23 days ago

Yeah I’ll repin it once I figure this out. Pulling the pins out of the housing kind of ruins the pins.

This is a universal board and it has an extra pin on J1

#2102 23 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

wires:
1) 50 -- white
2) 40 -- green
3) N.U.
4) Key
5) 70-- orange
6) 60-- brown
7) 20-- blue
8) 10-- red

wires:
1) 50 -- white
2) 40 -- green
3) N.U.
4) Key
5) 70-- orange
6) 60-- brown
7) 20-- blue
8) 10-- red <---------
Question;?
Why is the red wire inserted to pin7, when it is to be pin 8?????
wires:
1) 50 -- white
2) 40 -- green
3) N.U.
4) Key
5) 70-- orange
6) 60-- brown
7) 20-- blue <---------
8) 10-- red
Why is the blue wire inserted to pin 8, when it is to be pin 7?????
wires:
1) 50 -- white <-----------
2) 40 -- green
3) N.U.
4) Key
5) 70-- orange
6) 60-- brown
7) 20-- blue
8) 10-- red
Why do I not see a white wire in pin1??????

White wire is a different color because someone lengthening it with a different color and the connector has an extra slot not being used.

#2103 23 days ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Yeah I’ll repin it once I figure this out. Pulling the pins out of the housing kind of ruins the pins.
This is a universal board and it has an extra pin on J1

If you have the proper tools you can usually release the pins without destroying them. A really useful set is up on Amazon and covers lots of other connectors as well:

amazon.com link »

#2104 23 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

If you have the proper tools you can usually release the pins without destroying them. A really useful set is up on Amazon and covers lots of other connectors as well:
amazon.com link »

Yeah I’ve got some of those, but it still seems to bend them a little especially as much as I was removing them. Thanks!

#2105 22 days ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Yeah I’ll repin it once I figure this out. Pulling the pins out of the housing kind of ruins the pins.
This is a universal board and it has an extra pin on J1

FTR, earlier revisions of this board had 8 pins. Later revisions had 9. The 9th pin was another GI Lamp out (I believe, maybe Feature Lamp)? Depending on your game, your game may not use all 9 pins. (i.e. Meteor has only 8.)

#2106 22 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

FTR, earlier revisions of this board had 8 pins. Later revisions had 9. The 9th pin was another GI Lamp out (I believe, maybe Feature Lamp)? Depending on your game, your game may not use all 9 pins. (i.e. Meteor has only 8.)

Yeah my game doesn’t use the 9pin..

#2107 22 days ago

make sure to use key pins on the rectifier board. Plugging the connectors in here wrong can blow up every light bulb or worse. When using a rectifier with a 9pin J1 in game only using 8pin houisng, as long as the key is in the right place you cannot plug this connector in wrong unless you really try hard to do so.

#2108 17 days ago

Hey guys. Here's a question for you.

I'm need to build a test bench. I'd like to be able to swap components out but ultimately drive some 7 segment displays somehow on a backboard.

My thought is, I'd use an Alltek with a test board, some PinScore LED 7-segment displays, power it with a mountable 5V power supply.
The ZC will need a 48V source.

How would you guys recommend I power all this up to fool it into booting?

Thanks!

#2109 17 days ago
Quoted from jsa:

Hey guys. Here's a question for you.
I'm need to build a test bench. I'd like to be able to swap components out but ultimately drive some 7 segment displays somehow on a backboard.
My thought is, I'd use an Alltek with a test board, some PinScore LED 7-segment displays, power it with a mountable 5V power supply.
The ZC will need a 48V source.
How would you guys recommend I power all this up to fool it into booting?
Thanks!

Save money, get a Weebly MPU. Can also then run test ROM software.

#2110 17 days ago
Quoted from jsa:

Hey guys. Here's a question for you.
I'm need to build a test bench. I'd like to be able to swap components out but ultimately drive some 7 segment displays somehow on a backboard.
My thought is, I'd use an Alltek with a test board, some PinScore LED 7-segment displays, power it with a mountable 5V power supply.
The ZC will need a 48V source.
How would you guys recommend I power all this up to fool it into booting?
Thanks!

I built a test fixture from bits of a beat to hell silverball mania that got parted out years ago. mounted everything to a board that then mounts to the wall. Used the backbox wiring harness and transformer, pcb mounting brackets, etc. Then all the outputs to leds on protoboard. switch matrix on with little 5mm tactile switches. Then you can game software test mode to check displays, sound, mpus, driver boards, etc in real pinball like situations.

#2111 17 days ago
Quoted from barakandl:

I built a test fixture from bits of a beat to hell silverball mania that got parted out years ago. mounted everything to a board that then mounts to the wall. Used the backbox wiring harness and transformer, pcb mounting brackets, etc. Then all the outputs to leds on protoboard. switch matrix on with little 5mm tactile switches. Then you can game software test mode to check displays, sound, mpus, driver boards, etc in real pinball like situations.

Are you using a Bally transformer? I'm wondering if I could get away with something lower profile given we're only using HV for zero crossing and the rest is all 5V.

#2112 17 days ago
Quoted from jsa:

I'm wondering if I could get away with something lower profile given we're only using HV for zero crossing and the rest is all 5V.

You can get away with less voltage, the Zero Crossing detector on the MPU board just needs to see the Z.C voltage swing up above 5 volts (note the MPU board halves the voltage between the J4 input pin and the Z.C detector).

You should be able to use an off the shelf 24V transformer hooked up to a bride rectifier.

BTW, +1 on the Weebly board, you'll be able to put custom test ROMs on it.

#2113 17 days ago
Quoted from jsa:

Are you using a Bally transformer? I'm wondering if I could get away with something lower profile given we're only using HV for zero crossing and the rest is all 5V.

Yes I am using a Bally transformer. That and the backbox wiring harness that mates with it saved me from creating a lot of custom wiring. I have an old prototype MPU on the fixture just to keep it running. Waiting on DHL box to build more MPUs.
20200518_131335 (resized).jpg

#2114 17 days ago

Anyone ever try to remotely mount the volume trim pot? Like run three wires (in/ground/out) from the sound board to a larger size potentiometer of equal value (1k says schem.) and mount just inside the coin door?
It'd be nice to not have to remove the bglass when I want to adjust the volume. -35 specifically (future spa)

#2115 16 days ago
Quoted from mr2xbass:

Anyone ever try to remotely mount the volume trim pot? Like run three wires (in/ground/out) from the sound board to a larger size potentiometer of equal value (1k says schem.) and mount just inside the coin door?
It'd be nice to not have to remove the bglass when I want to adjust the volume. -35 specifically (future spa)

The trimmer pot is electrically before the amplifier on the sound board. If you wire a volume pot within the cabinet connected to the trimmer pot location, you will likely pick up electrical noise that the amplifier will amplify.

It's better that you follow the way it was done from Xenon onwards using a 100 ohm 5 watt potentiometer connected to the speaker output. It will also save you running wires to the sound board in the head.

#2116 16 days ago

This is my test cabinet....
An old Xenon machine.
Cabinet was destroid by water, playfield bare to the wood all the way.
Playfield parts used in other Xenon games.
Backglass very bad.
Only the boards, wires and lamps could be used.

I even got a special test eprom in co-operation with Scott Charles.
To test the displays, lamp driver boards and solenoid boards with a single eprom in U6.

Peter

20190917_212801a (resized).jpg20190917_212834a (resized).jpg20190917_213022a (resized).jpg
#2117 16 days ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

This is my test cabinet....
An old Xenon machine.
Cabinet was destroid by water, playfield bare to the wood all the way.
Playfield parts used in other Xenon games.
Backglass very bad.
Only the boards, wires and lamps could be used.
I even got a special test eprom in co-operation with Scott Charles.
To test the displays, lamp driver boards and solenoid boards with a single eprom in U6.
Peter
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Is that test ROM available?

#2118 16 days ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

This is my test cabinet....

In my case, I only need to be able to test display functionality, but I must say, that is an amazing test system. Wow.

#2119 16 days ago
Quoted from barakandl:

Yes I am using a Bally transformer. That and the backbox wiring harness that mates with it saved me from creating a lot of custom wiring. I have an old prototype MPU on the fixture just to keep it running. Waiting on DHL box to build more MPUs.
[quoted image]

Clever use of the wall, although my display test system needs to be portable as possible. I'll need to think through how to pull that off!

#2120 16 days ago
Quoted from jsa:

In my case, I only need to be able to test display functionality, but I must say, that is an amazing test system. Wow.

I use a little display tester PCB, an old computer power supply, and a tiny stepper PCB to generate the HV needed to drive the gas displays. Here's a video of it:

#2121 16 days ago

Just further to my previous post re the photo below. My Marco order came (I'm in Australia so had to combine shipping with others and send to a PO Box within US to send to me....anyway..) and I got the 10/32 posts as recommended.

They are one hell of a tight fit?!?!

Did I order wrong and should have gone 8/32? The original nuts underneath don't screw into new the 10/32 I ordered?

Or....do i just maybe open the hole slightly and screw through the existing holes? Wondering if the wood has shrunk slightly making the current holes that little bit tighter than normal and just drilling slightly to open is the way to go.

The other issue is the the 10/32 posts have the little "washer" at the base of them, making them match my originals. I can't find any 8/32 with this same look.

posts (resized).jpg
#2122 16 days ago
Quoted from jsa:

Clever use of the wall, although my display test system needs to be portable as possible. I'll need to think through how to pull that off!

I have seen some slick ones that look like a briefcase. Main use of mine is to test all outputs and burn in replacement boards, so it doesn't leave the house.

#2123 16 days ago
Quoted from jardine:

Just further to my previous post re the photo below. My Marco order came (I'm in Australia so had to combine shipping with others and send to a PO Box within US to send to me....anyway..) and I got the 10/32 posts as recommended.
They are one hell of a tight fit?!?!
Did I order wrong and should have gone 8/32? The original nuts underneath don't screw into new the 10/32 I ordered?
Or....do i just maybe open the hole slightly and screw through the existing holes? Wondering if the wood has shrunk slightly making the current holes that little bit tighter than normal and just drilling slightly to open is the way to go.
The other issue is the the 10/32 posts have the little "washer" at the base of them, making them match my originals. I can't find any 8/32 with this same look.
[quoted image]

Stick with the 10/32's, they'll take a beating better than the 8/32's. You need to drill out the holes a little bit for 10/32 and you should be able to buy the correct size nuts locally. Don't forget to put a washer between the playfield and post so the force of the ball hitting it is spread out over a larger area.

#2125 16 days ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Stick with the 10/32's, they'll take a beating better than the 8/32's. You need to drill out the holes a little bit for 10/32 and you should be able to buy the correct size nuts locally. Don't forget to put a washer between the playfield and post so the force of the ball hitting it is spread out over a larger area.

Thanks mate!

This group is really quite good!! I've posted in other clubs about questions or help and you get no answers at all....you guys rock!!

#2126 15 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Is that test ROM available?

Yes, it is available. (version 8 actualy)
I've been using the test file for some time now.
It serves it's purpose perfectly.
I've asked Scot: "Do you mind if I share this file with other people?"
His reply was: "Nope, go ahead. It was written to be used."

So here is a download link for the file:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1YhCmR23TABQAUylleguAHQiZQOx-g3_L
Instructions are in the txt file within the zip.

Peter

#2127 15 days ago

dothedoo to drill out the holes a little more...go from underneath up as opposed from topside down?

#2128 15 days ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

Yes, it is available. (version 8 actualy)
I've been using the test file for some time now.
It serves it's purpose perfectly.
I've asked Scot: "Do you mind if I share this file with other people?"
His reply was: "Nope, go ahead. It was written to be used."
So here is a download link for the file:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1YhCmR23TABQAUylleguAHQiZQOx-g3_L
Instructions are in the txt file within the zip.
Peter

Does it have a single lamp test or any kind of advanced lamp testing included? That is one thing kind of tough with the test fixture I struggle with

Just because all the lamps turn on and off in test mode does not mean the lamps are working 100%. I have a few attract modes sequence memorized how they should look on my LED readout board and in Kiss and Future Spa the cycle the aux lamps in a logical order during attract mode which is nice.

#2129 15 days ago
Quoted from jardine:

dothedoo to drill out the holes a little more...go from underneath up as opposed from topside down?

Topside down (may splinter a bit underneath) or go both ways and meet in the middle.

#2130 15 days ago
Quoted from barakandl:

Does it have a single lamp test or any kind of advanced lamp testing included? That is one thing kind of tough with the test fixture I struggle with

Yes it does From the readme:

individual lamp test - advances through Q1-Q60 on lamp driver board, pause with s33 press
press test switch

*if dip #9 set ON:
aux lamp driver test - advances through Q1-Q32 on aux lamp driver board, pause with s33 press

#2131 12 days ago

Hey I just joined the club with a star trek. Old battery in it and I want to remove it so it will play for years to come.if I remove it but don't replace it right now will the game function? And if so just cut it off the board? Thanks.

IMG_20200522_193652 (resized).jpg
#2132 12 days ago

Game should work fine, but you won't save high scores, credits and such.

#2133 12 days ago
Quoted from luckycreature:

Hey I just joined the club with a star trek. Old battery in it and I want to remove it so it will play for years to come.if I remove it but don't replace it right now will the game function? And if so just cut it off the board? Thanks.
[quoted image]

Yes and yes. But without the battery it won’t retain the high score, credits and any settings made via the coin door test button.

#2134 12 days ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Yes and yes. But without the battery it won’t retain the high score, credits and any settings made via the coin door test button.

Thank you!

#2135 8 days ago

Back to some trouble shooting!!! Why can't these things ever just go back the way they were before you did something simple like a flipper rebuild!!

As above, on my Harlem, the 2 left flippers no longer work? Right does. Just did a flipper rebuild, nothing major?

Checked fuse underneath, tested fine. Checked the coils, 43v on all...so good there.

Remind me how I make the coils fire when grounding? Which lug do I touch to see if they fire?

Or is it something else I need to look at as well.

Thanks guys.

Note: also lost all my insert lights...only mentioning in case it is related?!?

#2136 8 days ago
Quoted from jardine:

Back to some trouble shooting!!! Why can't these things ever just go back the way they were before you did something simple like a flipper rebuild!!

As above, on my Harlem, the 2 left flippers no longer work? Right does. Just did a flipper rebuild, nothing major?

Checked fuse underneath, tested fine. Checked the coils, 43v on all...so good there.

Remind me how I make the coils fire when grounding? Which lug do I touch to see if they fire?

Or is it something else I need to look at as well.

Thanks guys.

Note: also lost all my insert lights...only mentioning in case it is related?!?

Could it be a simple case of the EOS switch not closing tightly enough?

#2137 8 days ago
Quoted from hisokajp:

Could it be a simple case of the EOS switch not closing tightly enough?

Looks to be making good contact but will triple check again.

Went into test and all coils fired except the mentioned flippers!

#2138 8 days ago
Quoted from jardine:

Looks to be making good contact but will triple check again.
Went into test and all coils fired except the mentioned flippers!

check driver board j2 and j1 for broken solder joints or plug problems.

20200527_022652 (resized).jpg
#2139 7 days ago

Connectors look ok. Gave them a clean and reseated.

Flippers still not working

Is there much info in Pinwiki on this? I couldn't find really all that much when it came to trouble shooting?!? Guess that's why I'm just asking in here.

#2140 7 days ago
Quoted from jardine:

Connectors look ok. Gave them a clean and reseated.
Flippers still not working
Is there much info in Pinwiki on this? I couldn't find really all that much when it came to trouble shooting?!? Guess that's why I'm just asking in here.

1) Check back of PCB... any melted traces burns... Etc,etc,etc.
2) +43 volts to flippers O.K.
3) Cabinet flipper buttons contact ( 70 ) orange wire is ground.
4) Test flipper coils by using a long wire and short cabinet wire [ orange ] (70)
--- to flipper coils [anode side of diodes ] flippers should fire!
5) If not, check bridge power supply for continuity of A2J2-pin9 flip sw ret.

#2141 7 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

1) Check back of PCB... any melted traces burns... Etc,etc,etc.
2) +43 volts to flippers O.K.
3) Cabinet flipper buttons contact ( 70 ) orange wire is ground.
4) Test flipper coils by using a long wire and short cabinet wire [ orange ] (70)
--- to flipper coils [anode side of diodes ] flippers should fire!
5) If not, check bridge power supply for continuity of A2J2-pin9 flip sw ret.

One more on the driver board. If the EOS is mis adjusted the traces around the relay can get vaporized. Visual inspection should show if this is a problem. On the bottom of the driver board around the ice cube relay.

#2142 5 days ago

Did a flipper rebuild on my Bally star ttrek . As I played the right flipper slowly has creeped up to a higher resting position. What do I need to fix? Thanks .

IMG_20200529_223626 (resized).jpg
#2143 5 days ago
Quoted from luckycreature:

Did a flipper rebuild on my Bally star ttrek . As I played the right flipper slowly has creeped up to a higher resting position. What do I need to fix? Thanks .
[quoted image]

Put it back into position and tighten the hex nut even more.

#2144 5 days ago
Quoted from luckycreature:

Did a flipper rebuild on my Bally star ttrek . As I played the right flipper slowly has creeped up to a higher resting position. What do I need to fix? Thanks .
[quoted image]

Need to tighten the allen head set screw... maybe add a little loctite to the threads...
re-dress the metal flipper shaft.

#2145 5 days ago

If all of the above don't do the trick, the flipper shaft may have worn spots in them from years of tightening/retightening. Replace the flipper bats (the old Ballys come attached to new shafts) and get several new allen screws - less than $10 to replace both flippers.

#2146 5 days ago

Thanks everyone. Will get it done !

#2147 5 days ago

As Mathazar said, if the flipper shaft has grooves from previous use, the bat will continue to slip until the set screws are in the grooves.

Maybe you used the left flipper on the right side. Try swapping them and see if the grooves match the alignment.

Another option is to grind the shaft and remove the old grooves.

#2148 5 days ago

Had the same issue. Cleaning up the shaft with a metal file did the trick.

#2149 5 days ago

just finished the left and right bracket for bally drop targets P-7939-1 in regular and reinforced in 2 different options.

https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinksdrops&sort=newest

screen-capture-7 (resized).png
#2150 5 days ago
Quoted from swinks:

just finished the left and right bracket for bally drop targets P-7939-1 in regular and reinforced in 2 different options.
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?q=swinksdrops&sort=newest
[quoted image]

That's great. This is a long overdue needed part.

Thanks for doing this swinks

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
2,000 (OBO)
Sale Pending!
Pittsburgh, PA
$ 5.00
Playfield - Decals
Doc's Pinball Shop
There are 2153 posts in this topic. You are on page 43 of 44.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside