On J1 I am counting 9male pins not 8
Quoted from pacman11:This is what I found but looks different then yours.
[quoted image]
Again that pinout is for a Bally Kiss pinball.
Kiss and Space Invaders have different bridge power supplys.
Lost World rectifier board assembly AS-2518-18 pg5 1979 parts catalog.
KiSS " ------------------------- " AS-2518-49 pg7 1979-1 parts catalog.
Quoted from pacman11:On J1 I am counting 9male pins not 8
That is a universal bridge power supply.
That is not OEM.
Ignore the 9th pin connector... You do not have a KISS pinball.
Quoted from pacman11:I don’t have a spare ground on J2 pin 4
It is a spare... you probably have no wires for it...
It is marked N.U. as "Not Used"
Quoted from vec-tor:What wires color are the bottom GI ?
Quoted from vec-tor:O.K. check for continuity
J1 pin2 -- green GI return
J1 pin5 -- orange GI AC power
Continuity is good!
Quoted from vec-tor:I would check for bad solder connections and shorting on the playfield GI.
Okay I’ll start looking.. Whats the voltage to the orange wire? Thanks for all your help!
Quoted from guitarded:Original EOS Flipper Switches on Dolly?
Flipper assembly:
ASE-1587-101
ASE-1587-102
E.O.S. switch
ASW-A20-23
I would say you have a short then on the orange wire.
Make positively sure the orange wire is on pin 5 of J1
check the back of the power supply board... to make sure
there is no short or bad connection.
You could remove the pin5 connector wire from J1
and jump test the bottom of the playfield.
Make sure red wire is on pin8 of J1--- not pin 9.
I found one more issue on Future Spa. I noticed the knocker was not working in test mode. Found the TIP that controls the knocker had a cold solder joint. Reflowed and now the knocker works in test mode. However, when I get a match or a high score the knocker does not fire. Is that a setting that needs to be turned on or something?
Quoted from Jakers:when I get a match or a high score the knocker does not fire. Is that a setting that needs to be turned on or something?
Check dip switches and adj 16,17,18,19.
Quoted from vec-tor:Check dip switches and adj 16,17,18,19.
According to the manual on ipdb, switch 16 has to do with game rules of the green arrows and 17-19 are all coin price related.
Quoted from Jakers:According to the manual on ipdb, switch 16 has to do with game rules of the green arrows and 17-19 are all coin price related.
O.K. that game does not have expanded adj.
try dip switches 6 & 7
and dip switches 21 & 22
I have a Mata Hari I am working on with a blown fuse at the knocker. Could someone tell me the value of the fuse that should be in there. I have not been able to find it in the manual or the schematic.
Many thanks.
Quoted from Phesson:I have a Mata Hari I am working on with a blown fuse at the knocker. Could someone tell me the value of the fuse that should be in there. I have not been able to find it in the manual or the schematic.
Many thanks.
Fuse at the knocker? There's not supposed to be one in that area. Do you have a photo to show your configuration?
Knocker Installed (resized).jpgQuoted from Phesson:The fuse I took out was a 1/2amp 250v. [quoted image]
I would use a 1/2 amp slow blow. Playfield is 1amp slow blow.
Quoted from vec-tor:I would use a 1/2 amp slow blow. Playfield is 1amp slow blow.
vec-tor - is a fuse at that location normal? I've had two Mata Hari's....neither had a fuse there.
Quoted from Mathazar:vec-tor - is a fuse at that location normal? I've had two Mata Hari's....neither had a fuse there.
Not stock but this fuse is a good mod. Bally fused the DC side of the playfield coils but not the knocker and not the chime box. Its not uncommon to see the knocker and driver board Q3 burnt to a crisp which could have likely saved the burning if there was a fuse.
Fuse the bus wire going to the chime box too.
Still having trouble getting the knocker to fire when high score is met on Future Spa. The knocker works in test mode. I reset the high score to 10,000 for easy testing. I play the game and get a score of over 10,000 but the knocker never fires. I have dipswitch 6 and 7 both ON, dipswitch 21 and 22 both ON. Seems to me like I should get 3 knocker fires for achieving the high score with these dipswitch settings. Any thoughts?
343AE4A8-543C-448F-A988-6B92193C996C.jpegQuoted from Jakers:Still having trouble getting the knocker to fire when high score is met on Future Spa. Any thoughts?
Has the game reached maximum credits?
i.e. if you have the maximum credit dip switches #25 and #26 set to 10 credits, and the game already has 10 credits then you can't be rewarded any more.
Otherwise, what are you being rewarded when you get 10,000 points? Extra Ball or nothing?
Quoted from Quench:Has the game reached maximum credits?
i.e. if you have the maximum credit dip switches #25 and #26 set to 10 credits, and the game already has 10 credits then you can't be rewarded any more.
Otherwise, what are you being rewarded when you get 10,000 points? Extra Ball or nothing?
That makes perfect sense! Thank you for your help! It was set to 10 max credits. I also noticed that someone wired the start button to coin up at the same time. So essentially it was set to free play and was maxed out on credits. I set the max to 40 credits and unhooked the start button from the coin switch. The knocker now fires 3 times for a high score! Thanks to all for the help with this!
One last question (hopefully), are all 5 score displays interchangeable? I have a weak player 4 display and would like to swap it with the credits/ball in play display. They look identical to me but just wanted to make sure before swapping.
Quoted from Jakers:One last question (hopefully), are all 5 score displays interchangeable? I have a weak player 4 display and would like to swap it with the credits/ball in play display. They look identical to me but just wanted to make sure before swapping.
Yep, all five displays are the same and you can interchange them into different positions.
Quoted from Mathazar:vec-tor - is a fuse at that location normal? I've had two Mata Hari's....neither had a fuse there.
That is an add-on that was a suggestion back in the 1980's...
Stern has the same mod to their chime assembly.
So operators, if they were smart, add fuses to coils that had no fuses.
Remember, it is better to blow a fuse than to fry a coil and blow a primary
fuse and have your game down and not earning.
Bally, in there last revision of their pinball machines...
mounted the knocker to the playfield so it would be
part of the fused +43 volts.
Quoted from vec-tor:I would say you have a short then on the orange wire.
Make positively sure the orange wire is on pin 5 of J1
check the back of the power supply board... to make sure
there is no short or bad connection.
You could remove the pin5 connector wire from J1
and jump test the bottom of the playfield.
Make sure red wire is on pin8 of J1--- not pin 9.
Don’t see any shorts. But there’s also no voltage at J1 orange wire pin 5 either
Quoted from pacman11:Don’t see any shorts. But there’s also no voltage at J1 orange wire pin 5 either
then you have to take the bridge pcb off and check the back side...
Or remove all connectors and check for continuity.
**************************
[ should all be the same ]
J1 pin5 & pin8
J2 pin1
J3 pin10 & pin11
Quoted from vec-tor:then you have to take the bridge pcb off and check the back side...
Or remove all connectors and check for continuity.
**************************
[ should all be the same ]
J1 pin5 & pin8
J2 pin1
J3 pin10 & pin11
Okay so I removed my playboy transformer and plugged all the connectors in and got the same result no bottom GI. Must be a connector problem. But I have continuity on orange wire J1 to under playfield.
Quoted from pacman11:Okay so I removed my playboy transformer and plugged all the connectors in and got the same result no bottom GI. Must be a connector problem. But I have continuity on orange wire J1 to under playfield.
You have a break some where...
Did you jump the wires on the bottom playfield?
If you did it right, then the bottom run of lamps should have lighted.
Quoted from vec-tor:You have a break some where...
Did you jump the wires on the bottom playfield?
If you did it right, then the bottom run of lamps should have lighted.
Alright what wires?
Jumping J1 orange wire to orange and what other wire to I jump to the green wire under playfield?
wires:
1) 50 -- white
2) 40 -- green
3) N.U.
4) Key
5) 70-- orange
6) 60-- brown
7) 20-- blue
8) 10-- red
Quoted from pacman11:Yellow wire is orange, someone cut it to add more wire. I believe I have everything hooked up correctly on the connector..
[quoted image]
wires:
1) 50 -- white
2) 40 -- green
3) N.U.
4) Key
5) 70-- orange
6) 60-- brown
7) 20-- blue
8) 10-- red <---------
Question;?
Why is the red wire inserted to pin7, when it is to be pin 8?????
wires:
1) 50 -- white
2) 40 -- green
3) N.U.
4) Key
5) 70-- orange
6) 60-- brown
7) 20-- blue <---------
8) 10-- red
Why is the blue wire inserted to pin 8, when it is to be pin 7?????
wires:
1) 50 -- white <-----------
2) 40 -- green
3) N.U.
4) Key
5) 70-- orange
6) 60-- brown
7) 20-- blue
8) 10-- red
Why do I not see a white wire in pin1??????
Quoted from vec-tor:O.K.
when facing the transformer bridge power supply...
[ J1 ] playfield connector is located to the top left.
pin1 is on the left, pin 8 is last pin on right.
Factory: connector's open locking pins on top.
[ 1 I 2 I 3 I 4 I 5 I 6 I 7 I 8 ] --connector J1
-50 40 n.u. key 70 60 20 10 -- wire color code
*************************************
wires:
1) 50 -- white
2) 40 -- green
3) N.U.
4) Key
5) 70-- orange
6) 60-- brown
7) 20-- blue
8) 10-- red
Had pin 8 and pin 7 switch. Fixed it and still no bottom GI
2A78C4C0-43F6-4695-84DD-20AC6BBC9A96 (resized).jpegQuoted from pacman11:Had pin 8 and pin 7 switch. Fixed it and still no bottom GI
Looks like you might want to ring out your connections, I see an awful lot of wire showing, might not have made a solid connection with the contact inside the housing.
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