(Topic ID: 85292)

Bally/Stern AS-2518 Club !


By mof

6 years ago



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  • 277 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by guitarded
  • Topic is favorited by 219 Pinsiders

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There are 2153 posts in this topic. You are on page 40 of 44.
#1951 55 days ago
Quoted from treborlicec:

Check this page.
https://www.pinballlife.com/search.html?Search=%20mini%20post
I believe most of those are the machine threads, but may be a couple wood screw type. Look under your PF and if the hole goes all the way through, you need this one and a nut:
https://www.pinballlife.com/1-78-tall-metal-post-with-10-32-threaded-base-15430.html

All threaded bases! Thank you!

#1952 55 days ago
Quoted from jardine:

Can anyone help with the product number of those posts please. I am missing 4 of them.
Do they just screw into the playfield?[quoted image]

They are usually wood screws and the ball beating them to death rips out the playfield leaving a big hole. Get the posts treborlicec linked, drill your playfield all the way through, and put a washer under the base to protect your playfield like this.
A6ECCB7A-C0BB-4B2C-BBA2-C7F39E0BA55B (resized).jpeg

#1953 55 days ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

They are usually wood screws and the ball beating them to death rips out the playfield leaving a big hole. Get the posts treborlicec linked, drill your playfield all the way through, and put a washer under the base to protect your playfield like this.
[quoted image]

Very good point. Those 2 in the center definitely get hammered and a washer under them is a good way to make sure the new ones don't further damage the playfield.

#1954 55 days ago

Great idea guys thanks. Some of them do get a hammering and look like the wood around it has splinted ever so slightly.

Will add a washer for sure!

#1955 55 days ago

When some Pinsiders whine about shitty threads, they need to spend more time in threads like this one -- it's all roses and unicorns in here...
-mof

#1956 54 days ago

This Thread is awesome. Best of Pinside Stuff.

Managed to track down some fuses and it looks like Dolly will survive my repairs.
Still waiting on Flipper Bats so I can actually flip her, and I will have to source some better set screws to anchor them with...

but she appears to be functioning properly, again. Thanks for the tips, guys. Can't say how awesome it is to have access to your experience.

Still have to sort the wonky displays...but that can wait until I get a chance to play for a bit.

#1957 52 days ago

Well, I have been happily flipping on Dolly for 36 hours or so...just a few tiny switch adjustments and an intermittent bulb or two in all that time.

Thanks again for the aid.

Quick question before I go looking for something I don't know I will find: Does anyone sell the plastic heads that go on the slingshot arms? Or should I be looking for the entire arms for replacement? Plastics on mine were cracked and are finally giving out.

#1958 52 days ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Quick question before I go looking for something I don't know I will find: Does anyone sell the plastic heads that go on the slingshot arms? Or should I be looking for the entire arms for replacement? Plastics on mine were cracked and are finally giving out.

OUCH! I use epoxy to repair...
That is a hard item to find... OEM is NLA...
A reproduction head was available... it has a slightly different design.
That part is hard to find now too.
Kicker arm assembly A-3459-1
Kicker cover plastic C-1062

#1959 52 days ago

Yeah, mine were completely shot/trashed.

One more part (or pair of parts) to find...thanks for the reply.

#1960 52 days ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Yeah, mine were completely shot/trashed.
One more part (or pair of parts) to find...thanks for the reply.

You can replace them with wpc sling mechs.

#1961 52 days ago
Quoted from djblouw:

You can replace them with wpc sling mechs.

I assume you mean the entire assembly?

I actually might have found a pair of the C-1062 Nylon Heads...placed the order. (Will see if they actually have them in stock or if it is a mistake on their site.)

#1962 52 days ago
Quoted from guitarded:

I assume you mean the entire assembly?
I actually might have found a pair of the C-1062 Nylon Heads...placed the order. (Will see if they actually have them in stock or if it is a mistake on their site.)

Yes, the entire mechanism. You’d have to make new holes for the new foot print. But it will work. I’ve done it on a MH.

#1963 52 days ago
Quoted from guitarded:

I assume you mean the entire assembly?
I actually might have found a pair of the C-1062 Nylon Heads...placed the order. (Will see if they actually have them in stock or if it is a mistake on their site.)

Got in contact with swinks... I believe he is hinting at make reproductions of this part.

#1964 52 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Got in contact with swinks... I believe he is hinting at make reproductions of this part.

I just looked through his site thinking he already had. This needs to be made.

#1965 52 days ago

Anyone need a Mr&Mrs PacMan bumper cap? It's not perfect but it's real nice. All mounting tabs are intact. I have no use for it. If you have the game and you need one, send me your address and I'll send it out.
IMG_5129 (resized).jpegIMG_5130 (resized).jpeg

Added 34 days ago:

** Cap has been claimed!

#1966 52 days ago

Not sure if this is the proper place for this, but I am looking for an original masked rom E-740-16. Strikes and Spares U2.

I have a burner and could burn and strap the board for 2372s but it's a nice clean original board and I'd like to have original ROMs.

Let me know if you have one and what it would take to get it to me.

Thanks!

#1967 52 days ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Does anyone sell the plastic heads that go on the slingshot arms?

PBR sells the plastic heads. Do you need the roll pins as well? I bought the pins on eBay a couple years ago.

#1968 52 days ago
Quoted from JethroP:

Do you need the roll pins as well?

Yes, if you do not want the plastic head to come off...
Hopefully, you have the roll pin still attached to the metal arm.

#1969 52 days ago

Thanks for the tip. Pins are still there.

problem was the heads were all shrunken and shattered.

#1970 52 days ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Yes, the entire mechanism. You’d have to make new holes for the new foot print. But it will work. I’ve done it on a MH.

I did the same thing back in the late 1980's when Bally was gone
and the distributors had no parts... Bally Space Invaders.

#1971 52 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Got in contact with swinks... I believe he is hinting at make reproductions of this part.

I contacted Swinks earlier this year about reproducing this part. I sent him an original to work from, and he finally received it a little over a week ago. So it's in the queue to get done...

#1972 52 days ago
Quoted from RocketFromTombs:

I contacted Swinks earlier this year about reproducing this part. I sent him an original to work from, and he finally received it a little over a week ago. So it's in the queue to get done...

Fantastic!

#1973 46 days ago

Not sure I've seen this before:

Serial number on the head (in the normal spot) was filled in and painted over:
IMG_0431 (resized).jpg

But there is another serial number stamped on the top of the head:
IMG_0432 (resized).jpg

Also the serial number on the cabinet has been scratched out:
IMG_0433 (resized).jpg

And they don't match (which isn't that suprising).

So why would this have been done?

#1974 46 days ago

The factory had an EK cab lying around

#1975 46 days ago

On the early Bally/Stern Pinball driver boards has anyone used a ULN2081A in place of the CA3081 chips? According to NTE they cross and the pinouts in the datasheets look the same. I've got an example of each and the odd part is that I get different readings from the substrate pin to the ground pin. 0 on the CA3081 and around .6 on the ULN2081A with the diode check. If the pad at pin 5 for the substrate was just isolated with no connection I wouldn't be so concerned but at least on the Stern driver it is connected to the ground on pin 15. Not sure if it will end up making a difference. Be nice to hear if you used one of these ULN2081A chips and how well it worked.

#1976 46 days ago
Quoted from CanadianPinball:

The factory had an EK cab lying around

That makes sense. But why wouldn’t they just put it below the first one??

#1977 46 days ago

EKI
Electronic KISS

#1978 46 days ago
Quoted from djblouw:

That makes sense. It why wouldn’t they just put it below the first one??

Factory doesn't stamp the cabs, the outsourced builder does.

#1979 46 days ago
Quoted from CanadianPinball:

Factory doesn't stamp the cabs, the outsourced builder does.

Ah yes. That makes a lot more sense. That would be the reason the machine model isnt stamped on the head.

#1980 45 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

On the early Bally/Stern Pinball driver boards has anyone used a ULN2081A in place of the CA3081 chips? According to NTE they cross and the pinouts in the datasheets look the same. I've got an example of each and the odd part is that I get different readings from the substrate pin to the ground pin. 0 on the CA3081 and around .6 on the ULN2081A with the diode check. If the pad at pin 5 for the substrate was just isolated with no connection I wouldn't be so concerned but at least on the Stern driver it is connected to the ground on pin 15. Not sure if it will end up making a difference. Be nice to hear if you used one of these ULN2081A chips and how well it worked.

So has anyone used and confirmed a ULN2081A will work in place of a CA3081 chip on the driver board?

#1981 45 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

So has anyone used and confirmed a ULN2081A will work in place of a CA3081 chip on the driver board?

Both cross reference to an ECG916/NTE916 Common Emitter High Current NPN Transistor Array.

#1982 45 days ago

Anyone got a good source for replacement Lamp Sockets for my Dolly? I have a couple bad ones in there and my usual haunts don't seem to have the right replacements listed / in stock?

Thanks.

#1983 45 days ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Anyone got a good source for replacement Lamp Sockets for my Dolly? I have a couple bad ones in there and my usual haunts don't seem to have the right replacements listed / in stock?
Thanks.

Here’s the tall sockets, for the controlled lamps :

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/E-120-127

#1984 45 days ago
Quoted from Chisel:

Anyone need a Mr&Mrs PacMan bumper cap? It's not perfect but it's real nice. All mounting tabs are intact. I have no use for it. If you have the game and you need one, send me your address and I'll send it out.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I sent you PM on this, just joined the club!

#1985 44 days ago

I just picked up a non working Mr and Mrs Pac Man, when I turn it on I get a single 9 on all displays, mpu led only flashes twice, I’ve checked voltage at all TPs and all seem within range of the online guide, I also checked all fuses with DMM and they are good. Just trying to figure where to look next. Thanks.

Edit: The boards all look really clean, no battery corrosion

#1986 44 days ago
Quoted from Jaybird815:

I just picked up a non working Mr and Mrs Pac Man, when I turn it on I get a single 9 on all displays, mpu led only flashes twice, I’ve checked voltage at all TPs and all seem within range of the online guide, I also checked all fuses with DMM and they are good. Just trying to figure where to look next. Thanks.
Edit: The boards all look really clean, no battery corrosion

Depending on whether it's a flicker and one flash or flicker and two flashes, it would be either the 6810 at U7 or the 5101 at U8.

#1987 44 days ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Depending on whether it's a flicker and one flash or flicker and two flashes, it would be either the 6810 at U7 or the 5101 at U8.

It looks like a flicker, a flash, pause then 2 flashes, also I started isolating the connectors and found I get 6 flashes with J1 disconnected
thanks

#1988 43 days ago

I just fixed an odd one this morning. I have a -35 that I was working on for a friend. Had put in all new DIP sockets, replaced a few parts by the reset section, and fixed a couple bad traces.

Board would boot intermittently but the flashes were much faster than normal. It wouldn’t boot at all with some other 6800 CPU chips so something odd was going on. Added sockets for U15 and U16 but changing those chips didn’t help. Ended up finding a bad 470pf capacitor at C14. Replaced that and a matching one at C15 and back in business. Now it boots ok with all the different CPU chips. It was throwing me off at first because the original CPU chip did boot sometimes. Wasn’t until I put the scope on the clock that it was obvious that wasn’t right.

Since the clock section was socketed and I already had the scope out I tried several different 9602 chips to confirm those were ok. Ran into one that showed a funky pattern on the scope and one other with a slower clock. Those two went in the trash even though they did boot the board. The rest checked out ok and will be used for other repairs.

1 week later
#1989 36 days ago

Which connector on the Rectifier board is responsible for the computer controlled lighting? Only a few are on my 1978 playboy machine. Looks like I may have to redo a few connectors on this game..

#1990 36 days ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Which connector on the Rectifier board is responsible for the computer controlled lighting? Only a few are on my 1978 playboy machine. Looks like I may have to redo a few connectors on this game..

I assume when you say "rectifier board" you are talking the power supply board? So on the power supply, the switched lighting for the backbox comes from the J1-pin 7, the playfield switched lighting comes from J3-pins 3,4,6, and 14. Have you checked the lighting board for problems? Maybe the problem is there, and not the power supply.

Would also check the old lamp sockets and grounds for problems.

#1991 36 days ago

Thanks, I have a lot of bad sockets are these a good replacement option?

3089F74D-174A-4271-8552-BD748C3C4BAC (resized).jpeg
#1992 36 days ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Thanks, I have a lot of bad sockets are these a good replacement option?[quoted image]

They're the ones I have used in the passed. They seem to work just fine.

#1993 36 days ago
Quoted from pacman11:

Thanks, I have a lot of bad sockets are these a good replacement option?[quoted image]

If you don't want them...
I would be interested...
Regards.

#1994 35 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

If you don't want them...
I would be interested...
Regards.

You want the old ones? Can they be saved? Why?

#1995 35 days ago
Quoted from pacman11:

You want the old ones? Can they be saved? Why?

A toothbrush with 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol, 10 minutes in a heated ultrasonic cleaner, and/or a day or two in a tumbler can often resurrect old beat up lamp sockets if the internal spring (bayonet style) is still ok. Good in a pinch.

#1996 35 days ago
Quoted from pacman11:

You want the old ones? Can they be saved? Why?

"You want the old ones?"
Yes... If you don't mind...
"Why?"
I have a fetish for fixing OEM Bayonet lamp sockets.
"Can they be saved?"
Yes... if not completely destroyed.
If you want them back... O.K.
I just finished a complete set to a Bally EM game.
Regards.

#1997 35 days ago
Quoted from pacman11:

You want the old ones? Can they be saved? Why?

I clean up the old sockets without ever removing them from the game. Cut a piece of scotch bright pad and tape it around a nail. The nail goes into my dremel chuck and I whirl for a few seconds in the sockets and they clean up nicely.

79A3F7EE-37FB-4606-8D8A-9A0F1BB11862 (resized).jpeg
#1998 33 days ago
Quoted from RocketFromTombs:

I contacted Swinks earlier this year about reproducing this part. I sent him an original to work from, and he finally received it a little over a week ago. So it's in the queue to get done...

And today I got a surprise in the mail:
IMG_4115 (resized).JPG
IMG_4114 (resized).JPG

And here is one head trimmed from the little connector piece between them:
IMG_4117 (resized).JPG

I made a quick and dirty jig to support the kicker arm while I pounded out the roll pin and removed the old broken head. Then I put the new head on and pounded the pin back in. (I highly recommend using some sort of similar jig to support the kicker when you're pounding, and use the proper size center punch if you can!)
IMG_4122 (resized).JPG
IMG_4121 (resized).JPG
IMG_4123 (resized).JPG

And here it is all assembled:
IMG_4130 (resized).JPG
IMG_4124 (resized).JPG
IMG_4128 (resized).JPG
IMG_4120 (resized).JPG

I sent some pictures and feedback to Swinks, and they are now available here:
https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?type=product&q=swinksc-1062

Unfortunately, I am just starting a playfield swap, and won't be able to play test these for a while...
That said, the new kicker head seems to fit the same as the original, and I am very, very happy with how this turned out!

#1999 33 days ago

Fantastic!

#2000 33 days ago

I just put a new set of heads on my machine and I just used an inch or so of Blue Tape on the end of the pin to keep it from flying away.

Worked like a charm.

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