Yes, the D/T assemblies had a spring washer for the reset solenoid....
---- the size was larger than the common flipper coil, sling shot coil, etc,etc,etc.

Tracking a boot issue in Dolly. It's blowing F2, so displays. Not sure if that's related or not, but it's happening so I'll work on that first. If I unplug all displays the fuse will not blow. So I don't think it's a shorted diode (CR1-CR4). But, when I unplug the displays it still doesn't boot. I didn't think those two things (displays and booting) were related. Not according to at least one tech page I found.

So, if it's not a rectifier array of diodes, what might else I look for that might blow the fuse?

If the displays are in fact not needed to boot, what the heck is keeping this thing from booting? It's an Alltek MPU that's been in there for a while. 5V and 43V TPs check out good and that's all I'm aware it needed to boot.

Anyone have a source for these? I can't even find a part number anywhere. Marco carries the common 1/2" version but not this larger one. I've also checked Home Depot, Ace Hardware, etc. with no luck. May just wind up using a rubber washer as a replacement.

https://www.mcmaster.com/spring-washers

With the displays detached so that F2 doesn't blow, what LED count are you getting on the Alltek MPU when you power up? I'd start there...

None. The top and bottom LED are solid the moment you turn it on and never go into the blinks.

In addition to +5v and +43v which you state are present, you also need +12v (TP2, J4 pin 12). If the MPU LED never comes on, you might be missing +12v.

Oh, wait...you meant "none" as in no blinks, not that the LED is off. If the LED is solid and never goes off or blinks, perhaps something in the reset circuitry is amiss. Not sure what to do next on an Alltek, but on a Bally MPU I'd make sure the power paths from the SDB to the MPU is solid and stable (check all test points, reset all cables multiple times) and failing that start logic probing around the 68000.

Hi, everyone. I've been rebuilding a Flight 2000 for about a month now, including a new playfield and new boards. I built the rectifier board from scratch using Weebly's blank PCB here: https://nvram.weebly.com/new-pcbs.html
Anyway, I finally got the courage to plug in J2 on the rectifier board, nothing else is plugged in, yet. I turned it on and read the voltages, some are reading a bit high and I was wondering if they will come back into spec once there's a load. Here are the values on my TA-100:
TP1: Should be: 6.3vdc but is reading 6.41 vdc
TP2: Should be: 230vdc but is reading 192 vdc
TP3: Should be: 12vdc but is reading 16.25 vdc
TP4: Should be: 6.3vac but is reading 7.53 vac
TP5: Should be: 43vdc but is reading 47 vdc

thanks for the help!

Your voltage readings look normal.

Just wanted to share an experience in case it helps others. Got some MPU boards to work on. One had alot of chips socketed including U14 loaded with HEF4049BP. Symptom was many lights would flicker on my eight ball. Pulled it and replaced with SCL4049UBE and the flicker stopped.

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I like the AS-2518 boardset. I like it a LOT. I like it to the point that I have registered the domain https://www.AS-2518.com

Thanks to Steve Kulpa for the landing spot for the image you see when you go to the website.

With all this said, and likely maybe you're sitting on the sidelines at home. Maybe you need a project? I'm not a web designer, or do I really know how they are constructed. But I'd like to create a landing pad for all things AS-2518. A resource where we could document these games, the stories, the background history, maybe even software revision changes. Nothing is off the table. But I figured I'd start here. I also do not have a webhost, so that would need to be created as well. I'm thinking of a one-stop-shop where you could upload photos of your games, serial number database, any documentation, manuals etc. One thing I'd really like to capture is the stories behind the games. Anecdotal stories from former employees, stories you've heard from insiders, what Bally was thinking at the time. Things along those lines.

Stern stuff using this boardset or variant thereof should be considered as well.

Let's open up a discussion on what your thoughts are and what the website might evolve into.

Looking for some advice/direction on how to wire this up. I'm replacing the pop bumper leaf switches (with spoon) on a Bally Black Jack. The original switches have three lugs while the replacement from Marco's (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/ASW-A110-5) has 5 lugs. How do I wire this up, including the cap and diode (I have a bunch of those laying around...won't be reusing the ones off the originals)? Thanx!

Pop Switch 01 (resized).jpg

Pop Switch 02 (resized).jpg

Ignore those extra two lugs. Connect the wires/diode/cap onto the same lug positions as your old switch.

Just found this solder bridge on a -35 board that had a lot of prior work. Just have to reinstall a few parts and another board should be fixed.

63D0496D-76E9-4975-BB74-A4687CF99392 (resized).jpeg

That switch assembly is for the modular Thumper Bumper assembly.eg EBD.
The two bottom side lugs are for the Thumper Bumper body #555 lamp.

Thanx, @quench. And I didn't notice till I went to mount it to the bracket that the replacement is thicker than the original and too long for the original mounting screws. I had to remove a few bottom pieces of the stack (where the two unused legs are) and then it looked just like the original and also the same size.

It pretty much works. I say pretty much because sometimes the coil doesn't fire even tho the switch leaves are making contact. The skirt moves the spoon around from all positions and I can see the leaves of the switch touching, but again sometimes the coil doesn't fire. If I had to put a number on it, I'd say the coil doesn't fire 2 or 3 times out of 10. Nothing more aggravating that a ball hitting a pop bumper and it's just dead....

When testing it, and the leaf contact points are touching because my finger is on the skirt and has moved the spoon into position, it'll fire if I put pressure on the leaf contact points themselves with my other finger. That suggests the contact points are dirty/oxidized, but this switch is brand new (and I rubbed a business card between the contacts for giggles). The old original switch did the same thing and was one of the motivators for me putting in a new switch stack with a new diode and cap.

I get similar behavior on the other two pop bumpers (original but with new spoons) but not as often as this one that's rebuilt.

What else can be going on here....any suggestions? Thanx again....

replace the capacitor on the switch, I think it's .047mfd

help needed stern lightning flipper problems

Already tried a couple of brand new 0.047UF 50V Ceramic Disc Capacitors from Tayda Electronics. Just ordered 0.047uF 100V Ceramic Disc Capacitors from Great Plains....description specifically said "Typical Bally Switch Matrix Cap". We'll see how that does.

Try it again but this time use the actual ball against the skirt to make sure the spoon closes the switch at all angles. It could be a mechanical issue on the top deck like someone installing shorter ring/rods causing the ball not to fully action the skirt.

Looking for a 4, 5, or even 6 drop target centering plate as shown in the photo below. I have a 4-bank that is missing it, but could trim down a 5 or 6 if necessary. Hit me up!
IMG_3612 (resized).jpg
Here's what it looks like on a 3-bank:IMG_3613 (resized).jpg

If all ells fails... laser cutting facility.

LOL. Yep. Looks like the part I need is IB-616-4, made of unobtainium.

First time replacing connectors on an early Bally SS, and will be ordering from Great Plains. I have a few questions:

- I've re-crimped .156 contacts before using trifurcons, but I assume trifurcons are not used at the .100 size?

- It looks like the MPU/lamp/solenoid/sound boards all use .100, correct? Are they all the same 22-26AWG size? Do I want 2.4 amp or 4 amp? What is the correct crimp contact to order for these?

- Pretty sure I can just re-use the old reddish-brown connectors if I just pop out the old contacts, correct?

- Rectifier board and displays all use .156 18-24AWG contacts?

EDIT: Looks like there are some .156 connectors used on the solenoid and sound boards too.

I just did a ton of re-pinning for a problem with my SBM - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/silverball-mania-no-coils-fire - which in hindsight I probably should have just posted here!

Anyway I used P/N 08-52-0123 and 08-52-0113 for the crimp pins. No trifurcons at the .100 size, and yes all those boards have them. You can reuse the connectors if they aren't too burnt or warped, but I went with new as a reminder that they had been done.

Rectifier is all .156

Note: the long .100 housing are getting hard to find.
I do three jumpers to the voltage regulator connector.
1) One for the +5 volt to the solenoid transistor components.
2) One for the gnd to the main filter capacitor.
( all the burns come from this bad designed area )
3) One for the +15/+12 input from the bridge power supply.
( Use pin #1 top... it is open. add new orange wire to connector
--- and add to the other main orange wire... fasten both together at the bridge .156 connector )
The +12 volts is the life line to Bally and Stern games. By giving an extra wire to handle the
load... it takes the pressure off the connectors.
This mod is one of those "secrets" that nobody does.

Just picked up a non-working Stern MPU-200 as a spare for My Flight 2000 and Meteor. It would fail when it came to testing the 5101 chips. As soon as I looked over the board I could tell someone had the lower socket out and ripped up a trace. Appears that it may have been shorting against one of the other lines. When I pulled the socket it was worse. Also a severed trace and two other traces pulled up by the pads. Spent some time repairing the traces, new sockets, cleaned the light battery damage, and replaced a 1n4148 diode. When I fixed the longer traces I used green wire wrap wire on the top of the board to blend in. I prefer putting them on the top like this since they are more protected than soldered to the back of the board.

Also found one bad 6821 and a flaky 5101. Board boots and works fine so another one fixed!

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20200323_205404 (resized).jpg

Wow, very clean repair, nice job!

Robotworkshop does super board work. I did a very poor job of putting in an IC socket on 2518 MPU (a few lifted pads) and the board did not reliably boot anywards. I sent him my board and you can't tell at all that it was all F'd up before. And it's been working great!

Does anyone have a part list for the AS-2518-35?

thanks,

brad

Check the Bally pinball manuals.

Try the 5101 ram.

That's my boy.
LED's don't belong in an EM

Working on an Eightball deluxe. Trying to resolve a few issues. I have three coils not working right now. I bought a new driverboard, new MPU, and new power supply.

First-solnoid # 6 lower pop bumper doesn’t work. During test modes switch works and coil doesn’t

Second- solenoid # 17 saucer hole at top doesn’t work. During switch test modes switch works and coil doesn’t

Third- solenoid # 16 left inline drops targets don’t work. During test modes switches work but coil doesn’t.

I replaced all coils with new coils and adjusted all switches.

Any thoughts on this one guys? Which connector controls these coils on Driverboard and MPU my next step in to start redoing connectors..

You should be able to pull down the manual from IMDb.org for that game. I’d look for wiring hacks and also pull the connectors on the driver and MPU and shine a light to look for bad contacts. You may need to repin some connectors.

Usually the original driver boards are solid and can be rebuilt cheaper that buying new. Personally I prefer original boards that have been gone through over most of the replacements. Exception is the bridge board since many of those get trashed and the replacements are nice.

Thanks! Which connector should I be looking at that triggers these coils? Probably right side connector on driverboard I am guessing. Which mpu connector bottom left?

I would check and examine them all. It looks like those are solenoids 4, 5, and 6. If you go into test mode do any of them fire? Looks like J2 on the driver board pins 4, 9, and 10. Also check J4 on the MPU and J4 on the driver since that is the MPU telling which ones to fire. Look for wiring hacks, broken corroded pins, etc.

Speaking of J4, do any of the coils fire more than once during one cycle of the coil self-test? If so, that's a sure sign J4 on both boards needs to be repinned.

No, none of the coils fire in test mode.. I am checking the connector but they are orange and hard to see if they are bad or not.

8F110517-4E82-46AC-9564-0296E652F7E5 (resized).jpeg

You can't tell looking at the side. You need to look in the hole that the pins goes in to try and see if the contact is broken, sprung, or possibly corroded. Best example I have is an image I posted here:

https://www.robotworkshop.com/robotweb/wp-content/uploads/badpin3.jpg

This might be helpfull:
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Bally_Eight_Ball_Deluxe_Tech_Chart.pdf

Yeah I know I was just taking a picture of the connector..

Thanks, so it appears to be coils 5 lower pop bumper, 16 four inline drops, saucer hole number 17

Alright so it’s appears J5 is the connector for coils 16 and 17.

Coil 6 which is the lower pop bumper Is connector J2

I’ll inspect these..

AFDA3D69-DF75-47BD-A180-1291CC59612D (resized).jpeg

Double post

I would start with the lamp test...
1) does the solenoid expander relay "click" or "chatter"
2) if chatter then the lamp bridge is bad... adding an A.C. ripple to the MOC 3011.
3) saucer, 4bank target, outhole kicker, are on the same line.
---- ( relay must be energized for these coils to work ) check continuity from
---- J1 -pin5 of relay expander to each coil. Wire 67 brn-org.

Have you verified power on these three coils?