(Topic ID: 85292)

Bally/Stern AS-2518 Club !


By mof

5 years ago



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There are 1790 posts in this topic. You are on page 36 of 36.
#1751 46 days ago
Quoted from desertT1:

My Dolly Parton was working just fine yesterday and today it's doing something I haven't run into yet. Each digit of the display that should show some info (and maybe even some that wouldn't normally) was showing a "3". It has an Alltek MPU, so I'm hoping that isn't where the issue is, but since it is on all 5 displays I wouldn't think it's a chip on a single display.

you can also try just one display at a time to rule out a problem display effecting the rest of them. otherwise connector problem at MPU J1 seems likely. also make sure no switches are shorted. you can unplug the switch connectors on the right side of the mpu to see if the display issue clears with them off.

1 week later
#1752 33 days ago

Need some help with an Alltek MPU on Dolly Parton. When I power up both green LEDs go solid green, no blinks. I’m reading it as no 43V, yet the TP for that voltage on the MPU is showing 43V. I don’t get the disconnect. I tried doing the reset with having the dip switches at 01111111 or the other way (can’t remember now) and changing back to Dolly setting didn’t change anything.

#1753 33 days ago

Can someone tell me why the ball in play display would move over two digits to the left?

#1754 33 days ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Need some help with an Alltek MPU on Dolly Parton. When I power up both green LEDs go solid green, no blinks. I’m reading it as no 43V, yet the TP for that voltage on the MPU is showing 43V. I don’t get the disconnect. I tried doing the reset with having the dip switches at 01111111 or the other way (can’t remember now) and changing back to Dolly setting didn’t change anything.

Both Clock Jumpers set properly for Bally (both to the right)? All test points on the Alltek show expected voltages? Was this a working system prior to the Alltek going in? Is this a known good/new Alltek board? This is a 40 year old pin...what are the connectors on the wiring harness like? Have they been repinned?

#1755 33 days ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Both Clock Jumpers set properly for Bally (both to the right)? All test points on the Alltek show expected voltages? Was this a working system prior to the Alltek going in? Is this a known good/new Alltek board? This is a 40 year old pin...what are the connectors on the wiring harness like? Have they been repinned?

This board has been in this game for 1-2 years at this point. Everything was working great for quite a while. It blew the 43v fuse at some point on route. I took it home so I could take it apart and clean and re-rubber the game. Changed the fuse and it played great for a few weeks at home. Take it on location, play it 5-6 times and it’s great. Come in the next day and it’s doing this.

#1756 31 days ago

Can't start a game on my Lost World.
It does not boot for some reason (not a single flash) and the green led stays on.
All testpoints are getting their voltages and all ic sockets have been replaced and all connectors are cleaned. (It did not fix it)
Also the displays and insert lights stay off.

It's like the machine doesn't get told what to do; broken rom?
Anyone got a clue? Thanks in advance
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#1757 31 days ago

Bad 5101 ram chip or it’s socket. Also, could be that the battery has failed and is causing problems.

Those are next two things to check.

#1758 31 days ago

Have a spare -35 board coming so I can try and convert my Star Trek board over to conventional EPROM and try a few custom compilations!

#1759 31 days ago

Solid LED can also be the reset circuit, look up the test of bridging pins 39 and 40 on one of the chips to verify.

#1760 31 days ago

Just set up a new to me Harlem Globetrotters that was working fine when I bought it a few days ago. Now that I’ve moved it it starts a game and kicks a ball into the shooter lane, but then nothing - as far as I can tell no switches register and no solenoids fire. However the solenoids do all reset when I start a game, so I believe this is a switch issue...I feel like I’m missing something simple and obvious. Any ideas? And just to confirm, only 1 ball installed in this game, correct?

#1761 31 days ago
Quoted from jitneystand1:

Just set up a new to me Harlem Globetrotters that was working fine when I bought it a few days ago. Now that I’ve moved it it starts a game and kicks a ball into the shooter lane, but then nothing - as far as I can tell no switches register and no solenoids fire. However the solenoids do all reset when I start a game, so I believe this is a switch issue...I feel like I’m missing something simple and obvious. Any ideas? And just to confirm, only 1 ball installed in this game, correct?

Have you checked the connectors for the switch matrix in the back box? Are they seated properly? Does the connector have continuity to the playfield switches when you test it with a multimeter?

#1762 31 days ago

Only one ball in the game. Probably cold solder joints, IIRC the lower right connector. Give the mpu connectors the wiggle test and see if you can get some switches to register.

#1763 31 days ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

Have you checked the connectors for the switch matrix in the back box? Are they seated properly? Does the connector have continuity to the playfield switches when you test it with a multimeter?

Thanks, didn’t notice the first time through that one connector had been pulled off the board completely by folding the head down. Back in business, thanks!

#1764 31 days ago
Quoted from RobDutch:

Can't start a game on my Lost World.
It does not boot for some reason (not a single flash) and the green led stays on.
All testpoints are getting their voltages and all ic sockets have been replaced and all connectors are cleaned. (It did not fix it)
Also the displays and insert lights stay off.
It's like the machine doesn't get told what to do; broken rom?
Anyone got a clue? Thanks in advance
[quoted image][quoted image]

Not a flash means no program to start.
So, yes rom problems.
Check your solder work again and wire the board to accept 2732 eproms.
Burn new eproms and try again.

#1765 31 days ago

Alright, have a controlled lamp driving me batty... I've done the following - any ideas?

1 - replaced socket. Can confirm clipping tab to a neighboring tab works.

2 - repinned connector. Twice.

3 - confirmed connection between socket and wire. Ran a brand new wire just to be safe

4 - replaced lamp board from another 100% working Bally game. Still that same one lamp out in game. (Conversely, other game is working 100% with the other board).

Seems it has to be above that - but given how it all works I can't believe the MPU wouldn't only misfire one single lamp. Any ideas of something I missed before I keep swapping and repinning?

#1766 31 days ago
Quoted from statictrance:

Alright, have a controlled lamp driving me batty... I've done the following - any ideas?
1 - replaced socket. Can confirm clipping tab to a neighboring tab works.
2 - repinned connector. Twice.
3 - confirmed connection between socket and wire. Ran a brand new wire just to be safe
4 - replaced lamp board from another 100% working Bally game. Still that same one lamp out in game. (Conversely, other game is working 100% with the other board).
Seems it has to be above that - but given how it all works I can't believe the MPU wouldn't only misfire one single lamp. Any ideas of something I missed before I keep swapping and repinning?

Which lamp in which game?

#1767 31 days ago

Strikes and spares has the issue - 2k bonus light (Q29)

Confirming against 18k bonus light (Q29) of a Mystic for reference

Also, MPU is an Altek (was bought new and sold with the game, obv no battery damage)

#1768 31 days ago

Q29 goes to J1 pin 1.
That is one of the places most cracked solder joints occur.
Please check the print headers on both boards.

#1769 31 days ago

Son of a bitch .. it had perfect continuity and everything, but I reflowed and there it is. I was leery of it being a reflow/transistor issue, that's why I just swapped boards. Very strange both worked just fine without any adjustment or modification in Mystic

Thank you Inkochnito... That's what I get for being in a rush

#1770 30 days ago
Quoted from statictrance:

Son of a bitch .. it had perfect continuity and everything, but I reflowed and there it is. I was leery of it being a reflow/transistor issue, that's why I just swapped boards. Very strange both worked just fine without any adjustment or modification in Mystic
Thank you Inkochnito... That's what I get for being in a rush

Lesson number one, always reflow the print headers when a board is out of the game.
Especialy if it is still original.
It solves 90% of the problems.

#1771 30 days ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

Lesson number one, always reflow the print headers when a board is out of the game.
Especialy if it is still original.
It solves 90% of the problems.

I'll add that in many cases to get a solid solder connection it helps to remove most if the old solder, clean oxidation and any corrosion off the leads and pads, then reflow with fresh solder.

1 week later
#1772 23 days ago

I hope that someone here can help me identify this Bally test fixture. When I search online all I can find are the dedicated Brown Box testers for the individual Bally boards.

This particular tester looks like it was extremely well built and not just a homebrew unless someone very talented. Inside it has coils for proper loads on the driver board, flipper assemblies and chime boxes. It has 4 7-digit displays of which 3 look like they are very early ones. One 6 digit and a open spot which I think is for another 6 digit display. It needs some TLC but I think this will be worth restoring and will help with board repairs once done. Has spots on top for the MPU, Lamp driver, Solenoid driver, and a sound card.

On the right there is an opening with a bunch of spring loaded pins. My best guess is that there may have been a personality module for the exact game being simulated/tested. It would be cool to locate some of those or at least one as an example.

If anyone has any information on this (docs, pictures, parts, etc) please let me know. I'm really looking forward to cleaning this up and putting it back to use.

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#1773 19 days ago

Thanks everyone for your help!

Quoted from snyper2099:

Bad 5101 ram chip or it’s socket. Also, could be that the battery has failed and is causing problems.

Those are next two things to check.

Replaced it and also the 6800 chip but no luck. Measured the battery and it's good.

Quoted from Chalkey:

Solid LED can also be the reset circuit, look up the test of bridging pins 39 and 40 on one of the chips to verify.

Sometimes it resets, sometimes it doesn't.. What to do?

Quoted from Inkochnito:

Not a flash means no program to start.
So, yes rom problems.
Check your solder work again and wire the board to accept 2732 eproms.
Burn new eproms and try again.

I think this is the next thing to do.

#1774 19 days ago

Hi all - can anyone recommend the right size pins and a good extraction tool to use to repin a connector on the rectifier board? This is for Flash Gordon, and the board is located at the bottom of the cabinet.

#1775 19 days ago
Quoted from Boise_D:

Hi all - can anyone recommend the right size pins and a good extraction tool to use to repin a connector on the rectifier board? This is for Flash Gordon, and the board is located at the bottom of the cabinet.

to do just one pin? If you repin the whole connector i usually just use a wire cutter, snip as tight as you can from the old connector, strip and crimp... rinse and repeat, all new and shinny.

#1776 19 days ago
Quoted from Boise_D:

Hi all - can anyone recommend the right size pins and a good extraction tool to use to repin a connector on the rectifier board? This is for Flash Gordon, and the board is located at the bottom of the cabinet.

The smaller pins on the right of the board are .100 and the larger pins on the bottom and left connectors are .156.

#1777 19 days ago
Quoted from La4s:

The smaller pins on the right of the board are .100 and the larger pins on the bottom and left connectors are .156.

Doesn’t Flash Gordon use the molex connectors? If so, I think those are .84 molex

Just checked. They are the molex pins. Any computer supply store should have a Molex pin removed. I ordered mine from Great Plains Electronics. Ed is good people and helps keep this hobby alive. Big Daddy Enterprises also carries headers and pins. Also good people. Also has an eBay presence

#1778 18 days ago
Quoted from Tallon:

Doesn’t Flash Gordon use the molex connectors? If so, I think those are .84 molex
Just checked. They are the molex pins. Any computer supply store should have a Molex pin removed. I ordered mine from Great Plains Electronics. Ed is good people and helps keep this hobby alive. Big Daddy Enterprises also carries headers and pins. Also good people. Also has an eBay presence

You are correct. I read it as the Driver board not the rectifier board. Thanks for correcting.

#1779 13 days ago

update: I realize now that this connector is not plugging in directly to the rectifier board. It connects to the small transformer. I managed to use a very small screwdriver and remove the pin that needs to be recrimped, but I still don't know the proper size. In this picture, the orange wire loops from one pin to another on that same connector. The pin I removed is male, and is the center one of the 3 in a row. Thanks for any help identifying the right size.

FG pin (resized).png
#1780 12 days ago

Okay so my Lost World still doesn't boot..
I checked all voltages (all okay), got new cpu eproms and put the right jumpers in, replaced 5101 and replaced the 6800, cleaned all connectors, cleaned all pins and cleaned all ic's.
The led stays on and does not flash once.

Anyone got ideas? (I'm really stuck right now)
All I can think of is the reset circuit, but I don't know how (and what) to measure.

#1781 12 days ago
Quoted from RobDutch:

reset circuit

On Bally cpu, it should be 0 then a snap up to +5 volts. Aprox.
*
1) I would check to make sure all data and buss lines have continuity
--- to all components first.

#1782 12 days ago
Quoted from Boise_D:

update: I realize now that this connector is not plugging in directly to the rectifier board. It connects to the small transformer. I managed to use a very small screwdriver and remove the pin that needs to be recrimped, but I still don't know the proper size. In this picture, the orange wire loops from one pin to another on that same connector. The pin I removed is male, and is the center one of the 3 in a row. Thanks for any help identifying the right size.[quoted image]

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/products.asp?cat=92

#1783 12 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

On Bally cpu, it should be 0 then a snap up to +5 volts. Aprox.
*
1) I would check to make sure all data and buss lines have continuity
--- to all components first.

Thank you vec-tor!
The problem I have is that the game didn't come with a manual, and that the electrical drawings from ipdb are unreadable
So I would need a readable manual or photo from the cpu board drawing first..

#1784 12 days ago
Quoted from RobDutch:

So I would need a readable manual or photo from the cpu board drawing first..

Refer to the Playboy schematics on IPDB for a clear MPU board circuit diagram - same board.

#1785 11 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

Refer to the Playboy schematics on IPDB for a clear MPU board circuit diagram - same board.

That's good news, thank you very much!
I can continue my quest on finding out why it doesn't boot

#1786 11 days ago
Quoted from RobDutch:

The led stays on and does not flash once.

Have you been to the pinwiki? "Section 5.5.1 LED locked on".
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern

#1787 11 days ago
Quoted from JethroP:

Have you been to the pinwiki? "Section 5.5.1 LED locked on".
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern

No I have not.
Thank you for the advice!

#1788 9 days ago

Centaur at our club seems to be ending your ball randomly when there's still balls on the playfield during multiball. I haven't had a chance to look at it yet. Anything to look for other than funky trough switch issues?

#1789 8 days ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Centaur at our club seems to be ending your ball randomly when there's still balls on the playfield during multiball. I haven't had a chance to look at it yet. Anything to look for other than funky trough switch issues?

Switch test is your friend. Teach yourself how to use it.

1 week later
#1790 4 seconds ago

Problem with a -35 board I picked up, perhaps someone can offer a clue before I go digging.

Board will lock up after being on an hour or so. You can play games right after being fired up for the first time. If you hit the credit button during a game and it has been on an hour or so it will lock up.

It will be fine in attract mode (has never stopped working while in attract mode) but when you press the credit button will instantly lock up. All controlled lights go out and displays die. Sometimes the machine will sit there and beep, other times if on long enough do nothing at all. Letting it sit for a few minutes with the backbox door open to cool down will let you fire it back up again.

Looking at the wiring diagram, I wondered if it was a door switch return issue. Triggering the coin switches caused no problem and when I trigger the self test button I was able to step through all test and audits till it went to reset after 011 and it locked up on reboot.

Here is a video showing it lock up when the credit button is pressed. Does not exhibit this behavior when the original board is installed.

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There are 1790 posts in this topic. You are on page 36 of 36.

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