(Topic ID: 85292)

Bally/Stern AS-2518 Club !

By mof

10 years ago


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There are 3,868 posts in this topic. You are on page 33 of 78.
#1601 4 years ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

I picked up a SIlverball Mania yesterday and of course it has a couple of issues that I could use some help with.
The game boots and plays sometimes.
If it kicks out a ball & plays, when the first ball drains the game resets.
If it won't kick out a ball, everytime I push the start game button 1100 points is added to the score.
The trough switch looks good and like it hasn't been changed or resoldered since new and the diode appears to be in properly.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
Robert
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Do the self tests work correctly? If switches are completely mapped wrong I would suspect ROMs are for a different game.

#1602 4 years ago

EDIT: Nevermind. Only the primary hot and neutral wires are different. I assume their locations are ok. I've probably got some shorting going on from the flux left on the board. I'll clean it and see if I can maybe track down what's happening.

So I was replacing the rectifier board in a bally eight ball since it had never been done and the original was pretty toasty. I ordered a board from nvram.weebly.com and used some instructions I had left for installing into the machine from installing a board scott danesi had designed. Both boards have the same labeled places for putting the wires onto the board (E1-E12). The wire colors also matched the instructions.

Upon turning the transformer on (with most things disconnected) the display voltage is 150v instead of 230v and the 12v dc is 40vdc instead. Measuring between the two wires that supply the 12v power it's 100v if I remember right. The instructions also include which color wire goes to which lug number on the transformer. This is where things get confusing. The colors do not match the lug numbers per the instructions. At least one of the wires go to lug that isn't even listed on the instructions. Nobody has touched the transformer or the rectifier board before me. They were the same as when they left the factory.

I assume the best plan would be to move the wires on the transformer so that they match the instructions I have. That should make it be how it was supposed to be from the factory I believe. Unless I'm missing something. But I don't want to just go moving them to match the instructions without verifying that's what I should do. How should I go about checking the voltages out of the transformer to ensure things match up with the instructions I have?

#1603 4 years ago

Question for Star Trek owners- Do the slingshots in operation have a sound effect? Or just with certain dip switch settings?

In some videos they do in others they do not.

#1604 4 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Question for Star Trek owners- Do the slingshots in operation have a sound effect? Or just with certain dip switch settings?
In some videos they do in others they do not.

They either have chimes or the “brook” sound I believe.

#1605 4 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

They either have chimes or the “brook” sound I believe.

I seem to have an odd problem.

While playing I noted that the slingshots seem to have no sound effect or at best an abbreviated one. To experiment tonight I unsoldered both slingshot coils and played a round. With the coils disconnected there is a clear sound effect when struck by the ball. So this is good! But if it is tapped several times it will sometime garble the effect or even play a different note! Hooking up the coils again, at best the sound is cut off mid tone when the coil fires. I think this problem is also effecting the "lane change lamp" switches too.

The game is missing several caps on target switches and I have a cap kit coming for the soundboard just on general principle.. so for the moment not too concerned, perhaps addressing those outstanding issues will solve the sound problem.

Both the MPU and lamp driver board have had pins reflowed and good grounds, I have reflowed the pins on the sound board too. The main power board has not been touched yet, I should reflow the pins on that and replaced the main cap. The rectifier board is brand new.

Thoughts? Sound effects from pop bumpers, drop targets, roll overs and out hole all seem to be working proper.

Gary

#1606 4 years ago

Under Construction!

20190724_184640_resized_2 (resized).jpg20190724_184640_resized_2 (resized).jpg
#1607 4 years ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

Do the self tests work correctly? If switches are completely mapped wrong I would suspect ROMs are for a different game.

I took a spare Alltek MPU and installed it yesterday and the game seems to work ok.

Not sure what the issue with the previous MPU yet, but game is working now...as well as a 39 year old game can.

Robert

#1608 4 years ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

I seem to have an odd problem.
While playing I noted that the slingshots seem to have no sound effect or at best an abbreviated one. To experiment tonight I unsoldered both slingshot coils and played a round. With the coils disconnected there is a clear sound effect when struck by the ball. So this is good! But if it is tapped several times it will sometime garble the effect or even play a different note! Hooking up the coils again, at best the sound is cut off mid tone when the coil fires. I think this problem is also effecting the "lane change lamp" switches too.
The game is missing several caps on target switches and I have a cap kit coming for the soundboard just on general principle.. so for the moment not too concerned, perhaps addressing those outstanding issues will solve the sound problem.
Both the MPU and lamp driver board have had pins reflowed and good grounds, I have reflowed the pins on the sound board too. The main power board has not been touched yet, I should reflow the pins on that and replaced the main cap. The rectifier board is brand new.
Thoughts? Sound effects from pop bumpers, drop targets, roll overs and out hole all seem to be working proper.
Gary

Just an update on this- Reflowed all the pins on the solenoid board and replaced the main cap, did the ground mods and connected the two 5 volt test points with a jumper.

While I was doing this pulled the sound board and replaced the main cap. The original cap is a 100uf 100 volt, I had a 100uf 250v in the parts box so tossed that in for testing. This actually did fix something. The reverb control would hold a tone before (outhole for example) if over the 12:00 position and not stop till another sound effect was hit. Now this is gone. It did seem to cause another issue though as tones tend to play no problem but strings (like credit up) are very quiet. Clearly something going on here and I'll just have to wait for my cap kit to show up from Great Plains before proceeding further.

#1609 4 years ago

I have a Bally Night Rider SS that I would like to make the maintenance plug switched, rather than on all the time.

Just wondering if someone may have done this already and has any pointers.

Thanks.

Robert

2 weeks later
#1610 4 years ago

I have been working on a pair of very troublesome -35 Bally MPU boards. One was exhibiting systems where the lights would all flicker and then the board would reboot. Similar to this thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-controlled-lamps-flicker#post-4528081

After going over the board it was not the same issue above. I just pulled out U19 to test it. One of my testers said it was fine. However one of my other chip testers did not. I added a socket and plugged in a new 4011 chip and the board seems to run fun now. No flickering lights and no more reboots.

I just have one more board to go. It is really odd. The board boots ok and seems to run fine. The issues are that when it boots I get a different startup sound and once booted if I hit the test button for the lamps two of the controlled lamps flicker. Only happens on this board. I've tried the ROM's and socketed chips in another board and those test fine. It is something on this board. I have yet to replace: U16, U17, and U18. Those are the only chips left. If not one of those then a small solder bridge or open that I haven't found yet

#1611 4 years ago

It is part of the joy in finding intermittent problems.

#1612 4 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

It is part of the joy in finding intermittent problems.

I pulled out those last IC's, installed sockets, new chips and finally revived that last board. It was a pain but if I ever run into a similar issue I should be able to fix it a lot faster. Timewise I lost out but I gained some valuable experience and fixed another original board so it was worth it.

#1613 4 years ago

What are my options if the test button in the coin door isn’t working? I shorted the two tabs of the button with no difference.

#1614 4 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

What are my options if the test button in the coin door isn’t working? I shorted the two tabs of the button with no difference.

probably bad connector at driver j2 p7 or mpu j3 p1.

could be something else on the mpu, but connector issue is most likely.

#1615 4 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

What are my options if the test button in the coin door isn’t working? I shorted the two tabs of the button with no difference.

Remove J3 from the MPU. Power up and short pin 1 to ground (no diode needed)

Game should go into self test. If not U10 PIA is suspect or R19 (1.2k ohm) or R59 (110 ohm) or C32 (.003ufd). 99% chance that grounding pin 1 puts it into self test. Once you have confirmed, it's pretty straightforward troubleshooting figuring out where the circuit opens up. Most likely suspects are the pin and connector plug J3 and then perhaps the molex plug were the door connects. Finally would be a faulty test switch, but I've never seen one fail.

#1616 4 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

probably bad connector at driver j2 p7 or mpu j3 p1.
could be something else on the mpu, but connector issue is most likely.

Quoted from pinfixer:

Remove J3 from the MPU. Power up and short pin 1 to ground (no diode needed)
Game should go into self test. If not U10 PIA is suspect or R19 (1.2k ohm) or R59 (110 ohm) or C32 (.003ufd). 99% chance that grounding pin 1 puts it into self test. Once you have confirmed, it's pretty straightforward troubleshooting figuring out where the circuit opens up. Most likely suspects are the pin and connector plug J3 and then perhaps the molex plug were the door connects. Finally would be a faulty test switch, but I've never seen one fail.

Great info, and I have been semi-successful in tracking down the issue. I have traced it down to being somewhere in the door side of the molex connector/button area. First thing I did was to pull the pins from the contacts from the plugs in the head, press the button and got no tone. Worked back from there. I think it is one of the contacts in the plug of the door harness. If I use tweezers to short the female contacts on the harness that runs through the cab I can cycle through the test menu. Still have some more poking to do to narrow down where the issue it.

All of this to confirm that yes, the tilt bob is in fact not registering. Anybody want to take a stab at this one? I will pull the glass and go through the switches on the playfield to see if anything else is not registering. I am getting some phantom pop bumper triggering.

This is all on a Future Spa by the way.

#1617 4 years ago

Looking for a used playfield or overlay for an '81 Eight Ball Deluxe. Doesn't have to be perfect, just decent condition. Thanks.

#1618 4 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Great info, and I have been semi-successful in tracking down the issue. I have traced it down to being somewhere in the door side of the molex connector/button area. First thing I did was to pull the pins from the contacts from the plugs in the head, press the button and got no tone. Worked back from there. I think it is one of the contacts in the plug of the door harness. If I use tweezers to short the female contacts on the harness that runs through the cab I can cycle through the test menu. Still have some more poking to do to narrow down where the issue it.
All of this to confirm that yes, the tilt bob is in fact not registering. Anybody want to take a stab at this one? I will pull the glass and go through the switches on the playfield to see if anything else is not registering. I am getting some phantom pop bumper triggering.
This is all on a Future Spa by the way.

For your tilt bob, you can use a jumper wire with alligator clips across the switch leads of the tilt to check if it registers. If not then check other switches on the same columns and row of the switch matrix.

#1619 4 years ago

All switches in the row and column of the tilt register. Here is some fun though:

#1620 4 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

All switches in the row and column of the tilt register. Here is some fun though:

That is normal effect on a bally game switch matrix to have get multiple closures when your body is grounded and touch a switch metal.

#1621 4 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

That is normal effect on a bally game switch matrix to have get multiple closures when your body is grounded and touch a switch metal.

Interesting. I didn’t intentionally do that with the slam tilts, but I can guess I touched that trim when I was testing the in-cabinet slam tilt.

Is it just a coincidence that it was doing this without fail on the tilt switch that is not working correctly, or is that a clue?

1 week later
#1622 4 years ago

Digging into my no tilt issue on Future Spa some more. I figured it out. Thankfully I have another Bally right next to it right now. I compared the two quite a bit and did a lot of continuity testing. It was missing the diode shown. Added it to Future Spa and it’s tilting now.

93E1FD47-52CB-4AB8-BB8E-20CD5BCF9FE6 (resized).jpeg93E1FD47-52CB-4AB8-BB8E-20CD5BCF9FE6 (resized).jpeg
#1623 4 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Digging into my no tilt issue on Future Spa some more. I figured it out. Thankfully I have another Bally right next to it right now. I compared the two quite a bit and did a lot of continuity testing. It was missing the diode shown. Added it to Future Spa and it’s tilting now.[quoted image]

The diode belongs in series with the wire, not across both terminals. Take a look at other switches on the playfield and you will see the diode is on a lug all by itself on one end, and connected to the wire on the other end. This puts the diode in series on the switch matrix.

You mention it's now tilting properly, which is good. However having the diode installed this way may very well load up other strobes and returns. This can cause all kinds of weirdness such as phantom scoring, phantom coils firing, random reboots, etc. I learned this the hard way and hoping I can save you future frustration.

Looking at the diagram below you can see the same diode is used for the roll tilt and plumb bob tilt. Your photo doesn't show the whole assembly but definitely no diode across the lugs of the roll tilt.

snap.gifsnap.gif
#1624 4 years ago

Anyone have the manual for the Stern Shuffleboard game Black Beauty or have any information about the MPU which I am assuming is the Stern MPU200 board. It was requested that I add this game to the universal MPU.

-Does it use 4bit or 8bit wide SRAM? ... is there 5101 chip in both U13 and U8 or just one in U8?

-Does it run the clock at the 0.5mhz (bally / stern m100 games) or does it run at 0.895mhz (mpu200)?

-What sound board does it use?

I *think* it is 4bit wide NVRAM (passes ram test as 4bit), CPU clock at 0.5mhz (POST LED blink rate seems normal), and sound is SB100 (solenoid test is like Hot Hand game where sounds are tested 20-25) but looking to double check if anyone knows. A picture of the MPU/sound should answer all that.

ROM files can be found at
https://gameshots.doperoms.com/files/roms/mame/blbeauty.zip/674733/blbeauty.zip

warning some pop ups and deceptive click me links there.

#1625 4 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

I *think* it is 4bit wide NVRAM (passes ram test as 4bit), CPU clock at 0.5mhz (POST LED blink rate seems normal), and sound is SB100 (solenoid test is like Hot Hand game where sounds are tested 20-25) but looking to double check if anyone knows. A picture of the MPU/sound should answer all that.

I think you're right. Until someone produces real evidence:
The NVRAM test is only nibble wide (4 bit) during power on self test. PinMAME appears to be using SB100 emulation and they're using 1MHz CPU clock but looking at some game time delays it matches older MPU-100 CPU clock times based on 500kHz. ROM addressing is MPU-200/Bally-35 based.

#1626 4 years ago

Going to look at a bally strat trek tomorrow that will randomly start scoring and not stop with no action on the playfield, that's all the info I have. Am I right in thinking that it's probably a bad capacitor on one of the switches or more likely something on the MPU?

#1627 4 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Going to look at a bally strat trek tomorrow that will randomly start scoring and not stop with no action on the playfield, that's all the info I have. Am I right in thinking that it's probably a bad capacitor on one of the switches or more likely something on the MPU?

That is where I would start. See if you can get into the test menu and it will display switch numbers. There is a manual on IPBD you can download. I think it is 5th button press.

lights -> display -> sound -> solenoid test -> switch test.

Cut the cap on the switch # displayed.

trek switch (resized).jpgtrek switch (resized).jpg
#1628 4 years ago

Good call. It happens very sporadically apparently so I'm going it will show itself and I can take note of the scoring increments and narrow it down in case it stops once you enter the test menu.

If that doesn't help are there any associated / suspect ICs I should look at?

#1629 4 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Good call. It happens very sporadically apparently so I'm going it will show itself and I can take note of the scoring increments and narrow it down in case it stops once you enter the test menu.
If that doesn't help are there any associated / suspect ICs I should look at?

U10 on the MPU handles the switch matrix but ICs don't normally fail intermittently . Based on your description i'd agree with gdonovan that failing capacitor wired across a switch seems most likely.

Also if someone just put fresh rubber on it rebound switches may be squeezed closed from the tighter rubber and vibrations make it score.

#1630 4 years ago

I pulled this SDB out of my parts stash which was missing both heatsinks plus a few other parts. It has one burned trace, but other than that it’s in pretty nice shape. I’m using LED displays so I went ahead and removed the HV components. I’m using a PSU7 for the 5V supply which will support the increased load from the LED displays.

I have to say I really like the clean, simple look of the board.

Question: Does anybody have any experience with these PSU5 and PSU7 regulators? They say heatsinks are optional. I spaced it away from the board to allow airflow, but I’m wondering if I’m going to need to mount it on a heatsink.

ECDB0EAA-8101-4BD2-A226-D23276F91568 (resized).jpegECDB0EAA-8101-4BD2-A226-D23276F91568 (resized).jpeg
#1631 4 years ago

I used them for some proto Gottlieb 5v supplies, and they don't get warm at all.

However, I'd be interested to see what you see for voltage output on them. Every meter I put on mine showed low voltage, but everything also seems to run fine. So I dunno if I was checking wrong via the ground or something.

-Hans

#1632 4 years ago

Hey folks... I'm having a hell of a time with my Black Jack. It boots and plays, but after being on for 10 mins it will randomly add credits and points during a game and random controlled lights will get stuck on. Then after a while longer, it will just reset over and over with either 3 flashes then nothing, or one or two flashes with the LED stuck on, sometimes no flashes at all and no LED, sometimes the LED is stuck on as soon as power is on... etc etc.

If I leave it off for a while, it works again but the cycle repeats... it happens both on the bench and in the game. Boots fine at first, then it goes screwy after it's on a few mins.

There's no corrosion on the board at all, it's very clean, but I've rebuilt the reset section anyways. I've replaced the U6, U7, U8, U9, U10, U11 IC sockets. I removed the RAM/battery and added barakandl's NVRAM. I replaced U11 and U10 (with new 65C21). I replaced U14 (with new CD4049UBE). Nothing's changed. I have +5v everywhere that needs it, and pretty sure there's pulses where there should be but I just get lost after a while of checking.

Since the board starts up and plays fine after it's been off for a while, I'm thinking it's a bad IC... something heating up internally and failing. I think have every part on hand to replace everything on the board (except a 6800 and a 6810 unfortunately... and those are the only 2 IC's getting slightly warm).

I dunno where to go from here. Could someone give me an idea what to check to confirm which IC is bad? ...or any other ideas? Thanks!

#1633 4 years ago
Quoted from 76brian:

Hey folks... I'm having a hell of a time with my Black Jack. It boots and plays, but after being on for 10 mins it will randomly add credits and points during a game and random controlled lights will get stuck on. Then after a while longer, it will just reset over and over with either 3 flashes then nothing, or one or two flashes with the LED stuck on, sometimes no flashes at all and no LED, sometimes the LED is stuck on as soon as power is on... etc etc.
If I leave it off for a while, it works again but the cycle repeats... it happens both on the bench and in the game. Boots fine at first, then it goes screwy after it's on a few mins.
There's no corrosion on the board at all, it's very clean, but I've rebuilt the reset section anyways. I've replaced the U6, U7, U8, U9, U10, U11 IC sockets. I removed the RAM/battery and added barakandl's NVRAM. I replaced U11 and U10 (with new 65C21). I replaced U14 (with new CD4049UBE). Nothing's changed. I have +5v everywhere that needs it, and pretty sure there's pulses where there should be but I just get lost after a while of checking.
Since the board starts up and plays fine after it's been off for a while, I'm thinking it's a bad IC... something heating up internally and failing. I think have every part on hand to replace everything on the board (except a 6800 and a 6810 unfortunately... and those are the only 2 IC's getting slightly warm).
I dunno where to go from here. Could someone give me an idea what to check to confirm which IC is bad? ...or any other ideas? Thanks!

Did you replace the actual sockets, the chips, or both? What about some of the other IC's on the board? I had two odd -35 boards and one had a partially good partially bad 4011 chip. Board tested ok on the bench but acted weird in the game Replacing that fixed it.

#1634 4 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Did you replace the actual sockets, the chips, or both? What about some of the other IC's on the board? I had two odd -35 boards and one had a partially good partially bad 4011 chip. Board tested ok on the bench but acted weird in the game Replacing that fixed it.

I've replaced the U6, U7, U8, U9, U10, U11 IC sockets. I replaced U11 and U10 (with new 65C21). I replaced U14 (with new CD4049UBE).

I haven't replaced any other IC's yet, I was hoping for some things to check out to confirm where to go next, rather than shotgunning them all... though I do have some 4011's maybe that's worth doing next. Mine is doing the same both on the bench and in the game though.

#1635 4 years ago

I'm not sure if anyone else has used the 65C21 in the Bally boards but I would swap them out with real 6821 parts. Some boards have had 6820 chips which seem to work but I prefer 6821, 68A21, or 68B21 parts on the Bally boards. They are supposed to have TTL outputs. From what I've read that part you have in theory should work but has TTL/CMOS compatible outputs which could possibly throw things off. I mention that because these boards can be very particular on a few parts where even the variation of the CMOS parts being the unbuffered version or not makes a big difference. Some other boards may not care but I would swap those out and see if it makes a difference.

Below is a thread that mentions the difference in the chips:

https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=346138

#1636 4 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

From what I've read that part you have in theory should work but has TTL/CMOS compatible outputs which could possibly throw things off.

Hrmm... OK. Thank you.

For what it's worth though, I did some research on this before I bought them. I read posts from GPE and barakandl on here and other message boards that say this part works as a replacement (NMOS)... so I was going on that info. Here's the exact part for reference: https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/?qs=opBjA1TV902p0LqHsLVgSw%3D%3D

Anyway... the boards behavior didn't change when I put these in, so I guess it rules U10 and U11 out as an issue anyways. I can put my original 6820's back in but the problem still exists with those.

#1637 4 years ago
Quoted from HHaase:

However, I'd be interested to see what you see for voltage output on them. Every meter I put on mine showed low voltage, but everything also seems to run fine. So I dunno if I was checking wrong via the ground or something.
-Hans

I tested the board last night in-game. Initial no-load power up reading was 4.37 volts. I tweaked the adjustment pot up to 5.01 volts and connected the MPU. It booted, but the voltage dropped to 4.5 volts. When I connected the other boards it dropped to 4.18 volts and would not boot. The highest it would go was 4.48 volts under full load and still wouldn't boot.

What else are you using for LM323K replacements?

#1638 4 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

I tested the board last night in-game. Initial no-load power up reading was 4.37 volts. I tweaked the adjustment pot up to 5.01 volts and connected the MPU. It booted, but the voltage dropped to 4.5 volts. When I connected the other boards it dropped to 4.18 volts and would not boot. The highest it would go was 4.48 volts under full load and still wouldn't boot.
What else are you using for LM323K replacements?

I'm not surprised to hear this, but it's a bit disheartening you're also seeing the same with the PSU7. I have about 5 of them here when I was prototyping a Gottlieb power supply. None of them hit 5 volts for me. And they all dropped off well before the rated 5 amp load, when I was load testing them. I know my tester was a chinese 'no-brand', but I 4 different voltmeters that all agreed with each other. It's why I never released the design, and I don't know if I can use a 3amp regulator instead.

I have used the TO-220 sized regulators from EzSBC in the past, and while I didn't load test them, they did put out the advertised voltage on a quick voltmeter test. Maybe I'll order a few more pieces from them and load-test them as well.

The PSU-5 is a completely different regulator, and non-adjustable. If you're replacing an LM323 it may be worth looking at. The PSU-7 is intended to replace the 78H05 anyway.

Maybe I'll go back and chart this all again and talk to them. Seemed pretty responsive.

-Hans

#1639 4 years ago

I don't see why the PSU-7 wouldn't work in place of the LM323. However, I have a PSU-5 that I can try and see if I just had a bad part.

You may have worked with an older version of the PSU-5. The regulators are adjustable now.

#1640 4 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

I don't see why the PSU-7 wouldn't work in place of the LM323. However, I have a PSU-5 that I can try and see if I just had a bad part.
You may have worked with an older version of the PSU-5. The regulators are adjustable now.

You're correct that both should work in the application, but for some reason the PSU-7's I had were all under-voltaged. Not too bad at idle, but after about 1.5-2 amps they started to drop in voltage, and were very low voltage by the time I got anywhere near the max rating. You're right though, the PSU-5's do have trimmer capacitors..... I must have been thinking of other stuff.

The reason I suggest the PSU-5 is because it's based on different components I believe, or at least uses a different layout, so whatever design flaw is on the PSU-7 likely won't exist on the PSU-5.

-Hans

#1641 4 years ago

Tonight I replaced the PSU7 with a PSU5 and the results were even more dismal.

No-load power up reading was 4.13 volts. I was only able to adjust it to 4.6 volts. With load it dropped down to 4.01 volts.

I refuse to believe I have two bad regulators, which has me wondering if this is really a drop-in replacement on the Bally/Stern SDB. After some searching i found the answer here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/lm323-replacement-released-at-ezsbccom

CoreyStup mentioned the resistor they used to raise the LM323 above ground needs to be shorted. After shorting R50, the no-load reading was 5.35 volts and I adjusted it to 5.00 volts. Under load it dropped to 4.99 volts. Much better. Played a few games and after 30 minutes it read 5.02 volts.

#1642 4 years ago

I once had r50 burn up pretty spectacularly using one of those XD

1 week later
#1643 4 years ago

My game boots up into audit mode all of a sudden. Sometimes it gets as far as the light test other times it's the displays. Should I suspect the coin door audit button/switch?

#1644 4 years ago
Quoted from CanadianPinball:

My game boots up into audit mode all of a sudden. Sometimes it gets as far as the light test other times it's the displays. Should I suspect the coin door audit button/switch?

unplug mpu j3, the lower right plug, and see if it still does it. If it stops the switch is closed or the wire going to MPU J3 Pin is getting grounded. If the problem persists something is wrong on the MPU.

Also Stern games will boot to test mode if all dip switches are set to OFF.

#1645 4 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

unplug mpu j3, the lower right plug, and see if it still does it. If it stops the switch is closed or the wire going to MPU J3 Pin is getting grounded. If the problem persists something is wrong on the MPU.
Also Stern games will boot to test mode if all dip switches are set to OFF.</blockquote

It was a MPU problem, I burnt a new set of ROMS and all is good

1 week later
#1646 4 years ago

I have a Silverball Mania where the solenoids won't fire when starting a game. The switches work, points can be made by pushing the targets, but none of the solenoids fire.

Also in test the solenoids don't operate.

On the AS-2518-22 solenoid driver board:

T1=5.22
T2=191
T3, T6 & T7=42
T4=244.8
T5=14.15

Anyone have a suggestion on where to start?

Thanks.

Robert

#1647 4 years ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

I have a Silverball Mania where the solenoids won't fire when starting a game. The switches work, points can be made by pushing the targets, but none of the solenoids fire.
Also in test the solenoids don't operate.
On the AS-2518-22 solenoid driver board:
T1=5.22
T2=191
T3, T6 &amp; T7=42
T4=244.8
T5=14.15
Anyone have a suggestion on where to start?
Thanks.
Robert

Check the 1A slow blow fuse under the playfield near the flippers.

#1648 4 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Check the 1A slow blow fuse under the playfield near the flippers.

Both the fuses by the flippers measure good.

Robert

#1649 4 years ago

Do you have 43V on the coils? If not the fuse holder is bad or J1 on the rectifier board needs to be repinned.

#1650 4 years ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

I have a Silverball Mania where the solenoids won't fire when starting a game. The switches work, points can be made by pushing the targets, but none of the solenoids fire.
Also in test the solenoids don't operate.
On the AS-2518-22 solenoid driver board:
T1=5.22
T2=191
T3, T6 &amp; T7=42
T4=244.8
T5=14.15
Anyone have a suggestion on where to start?
Thanks.
Robert

TP3 on the driver board should measure 5V, the same as TP1.

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