(Topic ID: 85292)

Bally/Stern AS-2518 Club !


By mof

5 years ago



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  • 1,618 posts
  • 239 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 18 hours ago by BJM-Maxx
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There are 1618 posts in this topic. You are on page 33 of 33.
#1601 33 days ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

I picked up a SIlverball Mania yesterday and of course it has a couple of issues that I could use some help with.
The game boots and plays sometimes.
If it kicks out a ball & plays, when the first ball drains the game resets.
If it won't kick out a ball, everytime I push the start game button 1100 points is added to the score.
The trough switch looks good and like it hasn't been changed or resoldered since new and the diode appears to be in properly.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks.
Robert
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Do the self tests work correctly? If switches are completely mapped wrong I would suspect ROMs are for a different game.

#1602 30 days ago

EDIT: Nevermind. Only the primary hot and neutral wires are different. I assume their locations are ok. I've probably got some shorting going on from the flux left on the board. I'll clean it and see if I can maybe track down what's happening.

So I was replacing the rectifier board in a bally eight ball since it had never been done and the original was pretty toasty. I ordered a board from nvram.weebly.com and used some instructions I had left for installing into the machine from installing a board scott danesi had designed. Both boards have the same labeled places for putting the wires onto the board (E1-E12). The wire colors also matched the instructions.

Upon turning the transformer on (with most things disconnected) the display voltage is 150v instead of 230v and the 12v dc is 40vdc instead. Measuring between the two wires that supply the 12v power it's 100v if I remember right. The instructions also include which color wire goes to which lug number on the transformer. This is where things get confusing. The colors do not match the lug numbers per the instructions. At least one of the wires go to lug that isn't even listed on the instructions. Nobody has touched the transformer or the rectifier board before me. They were the same as when they left the factory.

I assume the best plan would be to move the wires on the transformer so that they match the instructions I have. That should make it be how it was supposed to be from the factory I believe. Unless I'm missing something. But I don't want to just go moving them to match the instructions without verifying that's what I should do. How should I go about checking the voltages out of the transformer to ensure things match up with the instructions I have?

#1603 27 days ago

Question for Star Trek owners- Do the slingshots in operation have a sound effect? Or just with certain dip switch settings?

In some videos they do in others they do not.

#1604 26 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

Question for Star Trek owners- Do the slingshots in operation have a sound effect? Or just with certain dip switch settings?
In some videos they do in others they do not.

They either have chimes or the “brook” sound I believe.

#1605 26 days ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

They either have chimes or the “brook” sound I believe.

I seem to have an odd problem.

While playing I noted that the slingshots seem to have no sound effect or at best an abbreviated one. To experiment tonight I unsoldered both slingshot coils and played a round. With the coils disconnected there is a clear sound effect when struck by the ball. So this is good! But if it is tapped several times it will sometime garble the effect or even play a different note! Hooking up the coils again, at best the sound is cut off mid tone when the coil fires. I think this problem is also effecting the "lane change lamp" switches too.

The game is missing several caps on target switches and I have a cap kit coming for the soundboard just on general principle.. so for the moment not too concerned, perhaps addressing those outstanding issues will solve the sound problem.

Both the MPU and lamp driver board have had pins reflowed and good grounds, I have reflowed the pins on the sound board too. The main power board has not been touched yet, I should reflow the pins on that and replaced the main cap. The rectifier board is brand new.

Thoughts? Sound effects from pop bumpers, drop targets, roll overs and out hole all seem to be working proper.

Gary

#1606 26 days ago

Under Construction!

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#1607 25 days ago
Quoted from BJM-Maxx:

Do the self tests work correctly? If switches are completely mapped wrong I would suspect ROMs are for a different game.

I took a spare Alltek MPU and installed it yesterday and the game seems to work ok.

Not sure what the issue with the previous MPU yet, but game is working now...as well as a 39 year old game can.

Robert

#1608 25 days ago
Quoted from gdonovan:

I seem to have an odd problem.
While playing I noted that the slingshots seem to have no sound effect or at best an abbreviated one. To experiment tonight I unsoldered both slingshot coils and played a round. With the coils disconnected there is a clear sound effect when struck by the ball. So this is good! But if it is tapped several times it will sometime garble the effect or even play a different note! Hooking up the coils again, at best the sound is cut off mid tone when the coil fires. I think this problem is also effecting the "lane change lamp" switches too.
The game is missing several caps on target switches and I have a cap kit coming for the soundboard just on general principle.. so for the moment not too concerned, perhaps addressing those outstanding issues will solve the sound problem.
Both the MPU and lamp driver board have had pins reflowed and good grounds, I have reflowed the pins on the sound board too. The main power board has not been touched yet, I should reflow the pins on that and replaced the main cap. The rectifier board is brand new.
Thoughts? Sound effects from pop bumpers, drop targets, roll overs and out hole all seem to be working proper.
Gary

Just an update on this- Reflowed all the pins on the solenoid board and replaced the main cap, did the ground mods and connected the two 5 volt test points with a jumper.

While I was doing this pulled the sound board and replaced the main cap. The original cap is a 100uf 100 volt, I had a 100uf 250v in the parts box so tossed that in for testing. This actually did fix something. The reverb control would hold a tone before (outhole for example) if over the 12:00 position and not stop till another sound effect was hit. Now this is gone. It did seem to cause another issue though as tones tend to play no problem but strings (like credit up) are very quiet. Clearly something going on here and I'll just have to wait for my cap kit to show up from Great Plains before proceeding further.

#1609 23 days ago

I have a Bally Night Rider SS that I would like to make the maintenance plug switched, rather than on all the time.

Just wondering if someone may have done this already and has any pointers.

Thanks.

Robert

2 weeks later
#1610 9 days ago

I have been working on a pair of very troublesome -35 Bally MPU boards. One was exhibiting systems where the lights would all flicker and then the board would reboot. Similar to this thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-controlled-lamps-flicker#post-4528081

After going over the board it was not the same issue above. I just pulled out U19 to test it. One of my testers said it was fine. However one of my other chip testers did not. I added a socket and plugged in a new 4011 chip and the board seems to run fun now. No flickering lights and no more reboots.

I just have one more board to go. It is really odd. The board boots ok and seems to run fine. The issues are that when it boots I get a different startup sound and once booted if I hit the test button for the lamps two of the controlled lamps flicker. Only happens on this board. I've tried the ROM's and socketed chips in another board and those test fine. It is something on this board. I have yet to replace: U16, U17, and U18. Those are the only chips left. If not one of those then a small solder bridge or open that I haven't found yet

#1611 6 days ago

It is part of the joy in finding intermittent problems.

#1612 5 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

It is part of the joy in finding intermittent problems.

I pulled out those last IC's, installed sockets, new chips and finally revived that last board. It was a pain but if I ever run into a similar issue I should be able to fix it a lot faster. Timewise I lost out but I gained some valuable experience and fixed another original board so it was worth it.

#1613 2 days ago

What are my options if the test button in the coin door isn’t working? I shorted the two tabs of the button with no difference.

#1614 2 days ago
Quoted from desertT1:

What are my options if the test button in the coin door isn’t working? I shorted the two tabs of the button with no difference.

probably bad connector at driver j2 p7 or mpu j3 p1.

could be something else on the mpu, but connector issue is most likely.

#1615 2 days ago
Quoted from desertT1:

What are my options if the test button in the coin door isn’t working? I shorted the two tabs of the button with no difference.

Remove J3 from the MPU. Power up and short pin 1 to ground (no diode needed)

Game should go into self test. If not U10 PIA is suspect or R19 (1.2k ohm) or R59 (110 ohm) or C32 (.003ufd). 99% chance that grounding pin 1 puts it into self test. Once you have confirmed, it's pretty straightforward troubleshooting figuring out where the circuit opens up. Most likely suspects are the pin and connector plug J3 and then perhaps the molex plug were the door connects. Finally would be a faulty test switch, but I've never seen one fail.

#1616 1 day ago
Quoted from barakandl:

probably bad connector at driver j2 p7 or mpu j3 p1.
could be something else on the mpu, but connector issue is most likely.

Quoted from pinfixer:

Remove J3 from the MPU. Power up and short pin 1 to ground (no diode needed)
Game should go into self test. If not U10 PIA is suspect or R19 (1.2k ohm) or R59 (110 ohm) or C32 (.003ufd). 99% chance that grounding pin 1 puts it into self test. Once you have confirmed, it's pretty straightforward troubleshooting figuring out where the circuit opens up. Most likely suspects are the pin and connector plug J3 and then perhaps the molex plug were the door connects. Finally would be a faulty test switch, but I've never seen one fail.

Great info, and I have been semi-successful in tracking down the issue. I have traced it down to being somewhere in the door side of the molex connector/button area. First thing I did was to pull the pins from the contacts from the plugs in the head, press the button and got no tone. Worked back from there. I think it is one of the contacts in the plug of the door harness. If I use tweezers to short the female contacts on the harness that runs through the cab I can cycle through the test menu. Still have some more poking to do to narrow down where the issue it.

All of this to confirm that yes, the tilt bob is in fact not registering. Anybody want to take a stab at this one? I will pull the glass and go through the switches on the playfield to see if anything else is not registering. I am getting some phantom pop bumper triggering.

This is all on a Future Spa by the way.

#1617 23 hours ago

Looking for a used playfield or overlay for an '81 Eight Ball Deluxe. Doesn't have to be perfect, just decent condition. Thanks.

#1618 18 hours ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Great info, and I have been semi-successful in tracking down the issue. I have traced it down to being somewhere in the door side of the molex connector/button area. First thing I did was to pull the pins from the contacts from the plugs in the head, press the button and got no tone. Worked back from there. I think it is one of the contacts in the plug of the door harness. If I use tweezers to short the female contacts on the harness that runs through the cab I can cycle through the test menu. Still have some more poking to do to narrow down where the issue it.
All of this to confirm that yes, the tilt bob is in fact not registering. Anybody want to take a stab at this one? I will pull the glass and go through the switches on the playfield to see if anything else is not registering. I am getting some phantom pop bumper triggering.
This is all on a Future Spa by the way.

For your tilt bob, you can use a jumper wire with alligator clips across the switch leads of the tilt to check if it registers. If not then check other switches on the same columns and row of the switch matrix.

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