(Topic ID: 85292)

Bally/Stern AS-2518 Club !


By mof

5 years ago



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  • Latest reply 11 days ago by statictrance
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There are 1669 posts in this topic. You are on page 32 of 34.
#1551 5 months ago

That's a known shortcoming to the Bally SDB... It's on the 'things to do/bulletproof' when you get one. I'm kinda surprised you sent it off to be rebuilt and it wasn't done.

#1552 5 months ago
Quoted from statictrance:

That's a known shortcoming to the Bally SDB... It's on the 'things to do/bulletproof' when you get one. I'm kinda surprised you sent it off to be rebuilt and it wasn't done.

It's getting harder and harder to find good repair guys. I could never get Eugene to respond to queries and when I called CoinOp Cauldron recently, they informed me that they have a 10-week repair backlog and then they told me they actually stopped accepting AS-2518 era boards altogether, even ones free of acid damage.

I was pretty pleased with guy I found - sent him 5 boards and not only was he very reasonable on pricing, he fixed all 5 boards and returned them within THREE DAYS.

I can (and did) do the jumper mods myself this week. I don't trust my soldering skills enough yet to do lots of thru-hole replacements of parts. I'm lifting too many pads on my "practice" PCB. At some point I'll invest some $$ in a decent desoldering gun, perhaps for my next TBD project pin.

1 week later
#1553 4 months ago

Has anyone used the repro Bally ASE-2911-17 Drop Target Leaf Switches from Marco's? I rebuilt both drop target banks with new tombstone targets in my Mata Hari this weekend and I replaced one of the old, original mangled lead switches with a brand new one from Marco's. First thing I noticed before putting it in was the stripe on the diode was in the "wrong" direction (toward the grounding wire instead of away from it) when compared to all of the original ASE-2911-17's. Still, I put it in. And it appeared to work until I noticed during gameplay that when a certain sequence of targets were down, the right outlane rollover switch no longer tallied 1000 points. Instead, a coil would fire and the firing coil would vary depending on the sequence of drop targets down (right sling, left sling, top left thumper, etc.). As I started looking at the switch matrix schematic and writing down the target sequences and the coils that would fire in order to determine a pattern (and thinking maybe I had a wonky address or strobe wire), I noticed that when the wrong firings occur it always involved Right Drop Target "D" in combination with two or more other targets being down. Right Drop Target "D" is the one with the new Marco leaf switch.

Remembering the "backwards" diode, I desoldered it and flipped it. Same problem. Thinking maybe I fried the diode, I took a new, never used Marco switch and flipped that diode before putting in the machine. Same problem. I decided to straighten out the original, mangled leafs on the original switch and I put that back in, taking out the Marco version. Works like a champ.

I've stared at these switches but aside from the one end of the diode being attached to different screw holes in the switch stack, I can't figure out what's up with these Macro switches....

Drop Target Leaf Switch Annotated.jpgIMG_6750.jpg
#1554 4 months ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Has anyone used the repro Bally ASE-2911-17 Drop Target Leaf Switches from Marco's? I rebuilt both drop target banks with new tombstone targets in my Mata Hari this weekend and I replaced one of the old, original mangled lead switches with a brand new one from Marco's. First thing I noticed before putting it in was the stripe on the diode was in the "wrong" direction

It was discussed in this thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/phantom-scoring-with-drops-on-mata-hari#post-4786034

#1555 4 months ago

Thanx, @dothedoo - I remember that thread and was actually searching for it before I posted in this one. Hell, I even commented in that thread a few months ago, lol! Bookmarked it now.

#1556 4 months ago

I am working on a Harlem Globetrotters. I need to order a set of switches for the spinners but the manual that is on IPDB only shows parts for the top side of the playfield. Is there maybe a parts list that they don't have uploaded? Does anyone know the part number for the switches?

#1557 4 months ago
Quoted from pindude80:

I am working on a Harlem Globetrotters. I need to order a set of switches for the spinners but the manual that is on IPDB only shows parts for the top side of the playfield. Is there maybe a parts list that they don't have uploaded? Does anyone know the part number for the switches?

This will probably work.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/ASW-A1-151

I would try to cross-reference it with another game though, just to make sure.

#1558 4 months ago
Quoted from pindude80:

I am working on a Harlem Globetrotters. I need to order a set of switches for the spinners but the manual that is on IPDB only shows parts for the top side of the playfield. Is there maybe a parts list that they don't have uploaded? Does anyone know the part number for the switches?

These will help you with a lot of part numbers as well (Page 81 of the 1980 catalog):

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Parts_Catalogs

#1559 4 months ago

I needed to replace a U2 chip in the MPU as I broke off a leg on the original chip. I bought this chip set and replaced both U2 and U6.
ebay.com link » Bally Flash Gordon Pinball Mpu 35 Chip Set

The game wouldn't boot. I replaced the new U6 with the original U6, and in the process broke a leg on the new U6 (I know, I suck at removing ICs). Boots up fine.

I asked the seller to replace the U6 chip, since it didn't work and he did so without hesitation. I tried the second new U6 chip and it still won't boot. I just get a flicker on the MPU, then nothing. Replaced with the original U6 chip and it works fine. I specified 2532 EPROMs for direct replacement without jumpering.

Any thoughts on why the new U6 chip won't work? I have no way to test the chip.

#1560 4 months ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I needed to replace a U2 chip in the MPU as I broke off a leg on the original chip. I bought this chip set and replaced both U2 and U6.
ebay.com link » Bally Flash Gordon Pinball Mpu 35 Chip Set
The game wouldn't boot. I replaced the new U6 with the original U6, and in the process broke a leg on the new U6 (I know, I suck at removing ICs). Boots up fine.
I asked the seller to replace the U6 chip, since it didn't work and he did so without hesitation. I tried the second new U6 chip and it still won't boot. I just get a flicker on the MPU, then nothing. Replaced with the original U6 chip and it works fine. I specified 2532 EPROMs for direct replacement without jumpering.
Any thoughts on why the new U6 chip won't work? I have no way to test the chip.Auction is for 2732, did you actually receive 2532?

#1561 4 months ago
Quoted from CanadianPinball:

did you actually receive 2532?

Not sure how I can check as the top of the chip has labels on it.

#1562 4 months ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Not sure how I can check as the top of the chip has labels on it.

Generally most 2732 (not all) have flat faces, while most 2532 have a square raised section in the middle where the window is. This isn't strictly true for all manufacturers but most of them are like this.

Probably best you confirm with the ebayer that supplied you the EPROMs.

2x32_EPROMs.jpg

#1563 4 months ago
Quoted from Quench:

Generally most 2732 (not all) have flat faces, while most 2532 have a square raised section in the middle where the window is. This isn't strictly true for all manufacturers but most of them are like this.
Probably best you confirm with the ebayer that supplied you the EPROMs.
[quoted image]

So the chips I received definitely had flat faces. But the U2 chip installed works, which makes me think this isn't the case. I can certainly lift up the labels a bit to see what kinds of markings are on there. The game works now, so it isn't a huge deal, but I would imagine at some point I'll need to replace the U6 chip. I've already given the seller positive feedback, which kind of takes away any obligation to respond to any issues that I'm having, but he sent out the second chip without issue, so I figure that deserved the feedback.

#1564 4 months ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

This will probably work.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/ASW-A1-151
I would try to cross-reference it with another game though, just to make sure.

Thanks for the link, that looks to be the part!

#1565 4 months ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

These will help you with a lot of part numbers as well (Page 81 of the 1980 catalog):
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Parts_Catalogs

Thanks for linking me to these! I think I recall stumbling across these a few years back when I was working on my EBD. I am going to have to bookmark them for future reference!

#1566 4 months ago

Anyone have a spare bracket for inline targets like the one pictured?

Ideally would like a complete like in the photo but would settle for just the bracket that wraps around and has the stud on the front.
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#1567 4 months ago

I have the MPU LED flicker, but no flashes. I pulled and reseated U1, U2, and U6 and checked for cold solder joints with none seen. Not sure what else to check for. I just removed the old socket and cleaned up U8 because previously I was getting 2 flashes. Going backwards...

#1568 4 months ago

What's the easiest way to move a Bally LE cab? Removing the head and wrapping / strapping it to the body the same as a normal cab? The bottom section with the score displays stays put right?

#1569 4 months ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

What's the easiest way to move a Bally LE cab? Removing the head and wrapping / strapping it to the body the same as a normal cab? The bottom section with the score displays stays put right?

I always take the head bolts out behind the displays, then turn the back box 180 degrees and tie it to the cabinet.

Peter

#1570 4 months ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

I always take the head bolts out behind the displays, then turn the back box 180 degrees and tie it to the cabinet.
Peter

Just one word of advice here: Keep an eye on your cables. There should be plenty of slack on them as you tip the backbox, but if there isn't for some reason (something is caught), just make sure it's all taken care of so you don't bend any connectors or pins.

#1571 3 months ago

What causes the flipper to re-fire when you are holding it up and the ball comes down and hits it?

Also, is there a way to cut down on the treble of a game? Space Invaders is very bass heavy, so in order to hear that you need it up a little. However, when it makes that high pitch beeping telling you to hit the right side drop target that seems noticeably louder and is like to tone that down a little.

#1572 3 months ago
Quoted from desertT1:

What causes the flipper to re-fire when you are holding it up and the ball comes down and hits it?

The low power coil is in series with the high power coil when the flipper is up to keep it from burning up. The ball is able the push the flipper down just enough to close the end of stroke switch which goes back to high power and causes the re-fire. I believe Space Invaders has the linear style flippers? If so they are worse than the old style largely due to slop between the nylon bushing and the slot it rides in in the metal coil plunger. Have you rebuilt the flippers? I find they are pretty good when new.

#1573 3 months ago
Quoted from desertT1:

What causes the flipper to re-fire when you are holding it up and the ball comes down and hits it?

Typically a coil stop problem.

#1574 3 months ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Typically a coil stop problem.

Interesting. I have this happen on a 78 Lost World after a full flipper kit install. I think it did it before that as well, but can’t remember exactly.

#1575 3 months ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Interesting. I have this happen on a 78 Lost World after a full flipper kit install. I think it did it before that as well, but can’t remember exactly.

Where did you get your flipper kit? I stopped buying them from PBR because I don't like the black metal. My flippers did not feel as strong and I had snap back problems like you're having. I replaced them with Marco kits and they're much better.

I recently bought a Bally kit from Pinball Life. They look good, but I haven't tried them yet.

#1576 3 months ago

This happens on both sides of my Big Game... insights?

5CAD7CBD-AFE3-49F3-BDF5-322766AED6F1 (resized).jpeg
#1577 3 months ago

^solved. Front bats on bottom.

Added 99 days ago:

*meant "wrong bats"

#1578 3 months ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Where did you get your flipper kit? I stopped buying them from PBR because I don't like the black metal. My flippers did not feel as strong and I had snap back problems like you're having. I replaced them with Marco kits and they're much better.
I recently bought a Bally kit from Pinball Life. They look good, but I haven't tried them yet.

Either Marco or Pinball Wizard.

#1579 3 months ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Interesting. I have this happen on a 78 Lost World after a full flipper kit install. I think it did it before that as well, but can’t remember exactly.

I would tighten your EOS switches. There should a minimum be 1/8" gap when opened. If the flipper still "fires" back while being held up and a ball strikes it, tighten it up to 1/16."

#1580 3 months ago

Silverball Mania not booting. Sometimes the LED will light solid. 5 seconds later the light will blip and then not come on. I've pulled all the chips and cleaned them and then reseated, but this iffy behavior isn't helping one bit. Any guesses?

#1581 3 months ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Silverball Mania not booting.

Does it have the original MPU, battery corrosion damage can damage more than just ICs, did you inspect the back of the board?

#1582 3 months ago

What kind of dip sockets are on the board? Some are really bad and need to be replaced for a reliable game.

#1583 3 months ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

What kind of dip sockets are on the board? Some are really bad and need to be replaced for a reliable game.

They are AUGAT types. I normally have a stash of new ones on hand, but have run out. I will have to get to the good electronics store we have and resupply. I'll redo all the sockets and see what happens and keep an eye out for corrosion.

#1584 3 months ago

does anyone know if the Globetrotters can be set to free-play? I can't find any mention of it in the manual

#1585 3 months ago
Quoted from mark532011:

does anyone know if the Globetrotters can be set to free-play? I can't find any mention of it in the manual

Not with the factory ROM, but if you load it up with credits and put the replay to 10k you shouldn't have to deal with it very often.

#1586 3 months ago

I think I have mine set to 15 plays per coin. Max 40 credits so it doesnt need to be re-upped very often and only 3 switch clicks.

#1587 3 months ago

Ok, thanks guys!

#1588 3 months ago
Quoted from mark532011:

does anyone know if the Globetrotters can be set to free-play? I can't find any mention of it in the manual

Free play switch for early Bally SS
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/has-anyone-installed-a-switch-to-add-credits-to-bally-ee

1 week later
#1589 3 months ago

I am working on a Bally MPU for a friend that has a sticker on it with AS-2962-17 MPU but it looks like a AS-2518-35. Are they the same board or does the AS-2962-17 have some differences? It came out of a Centaur but I don't know if it is the original board or not.

#1590 3 months ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I am working on a Bally MPU for a friend that has a sticker on it with AS-2962-17 MPU but it looks like a AS-2518-35. Are they the same board or does the AS-2962-17 have some differences? It came out of a Centaur but I don't know if it is the original board or not.

Memory capacity is the biggest difference.

Visually, the -17 will have all ROM locations populated with a socket where the -35 will leave a couple blank.

#1591 3 months ago

I probably should have been more specific. The board is definitely not an AS-2518-17 from an earlier game. It looks like the same physical board as the AS-2518-35 and the silkscreen text matches the -35 board. I was just wondering if there was an significance as to the sticker showing AS-2967-17 and if that meant it had some customizations for Centaur.

I've put my Elektra ROMs on the board and ran it in my Elektra. While it seems to play fine I notice two odd differences. One is that the startup sound is different. The other is that in lamp test a couple of the controlled lamps for the back box flicker. It is specific to this MPU board. My other -35 board works fine and I have a spare MPU that also works properly.

I didn't know if there was something unique about the board for Centaur and that was why the sticker was there and the board was fine. If not there is still some odd issue to resolve....

#1592 3 months ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I am working on a Bally MPU for a friend that has a sticker on it with AS-2962-17 MPU but it looks like a AS-2518-35. Are they the same board or does the AS-2962-17 have some differences?

Can you post some clear high res pics of this board in question?

#1593 3 months ago

Oh I didn’t even notice the “2962”. Sorry about that.

#1594 3 months ago

Original Elektra board on top. Works as expected. Board on bottom is out of a Centaur and has the Elektra ROM set installed (2532 type chips). That board has a different startup sound and a couple of the controlled LEDs on the backbox door flicker with this MPU installed. Game play seems fine otherwise. Both boards appear to be -35 but with the other sticker on the Centaur board I wasn't sure if it was different and if so is that causing the odd tone and flicker.

IMG_1406 (resized).JPG
#1595 3 months ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Original Elektra board on top. Works as expected. Board on bottom is out of a Centaur and has the Elektra ROM set installed (2532 type chips). That board has a different startup sound and a couple of the controlled LEDs on the backbox door flicker with this MPU installed. Game play seems fine otherwise. Both boards appear to be -35 but with the other sticker on the Centaur board I wasn't sure if it was different and if so is that causing the odd tone and flicker.[quoted image]

AS-2962-17 is Bally Space Invaders...
ESI = Electronic Space Invaders.
The CPU board is a Dash-35.

#1596 3 months ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

AS-2962-17 is Bally Space Invaders...
ESI = Electronic Space Invaders.
The CPU board is a Dash-35.

Thank you! So this machine probably had the MPU swapped at one point. I'll go back to troubleshooting then. It isn't acting like my other two -35 boards in Elektra. Although the socketed chips tested ok in my chip tester I'll swap them with my Elektra board to rule those out. At least i'll be able to confirm it is a problem with the board.

#1597 3 months ago

All the socketed chips from the troublesome board worked flawlessly in my Elektra MPU board. That points back to something on the board itself out of the Centaur. More bench testing...

#1598 3 months ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

That board has a different startup sound and a couple of the controlled LEDs on the backbox door flicker with this MPU installed.

Make sure the 4049 chip at U14 is an unbuffered version "4049UB" and not a buffered "4049B" version.

1 week later
#1599 89 days ago

Looks like I am back in the club with this Lost World! On the lookout for a Bally Viking near Chicago if you have one for sale/trade.

IMG_0965 (resized).JPGIMG_0966 (resized).JPGIMG_0968 (resized).jpg
#1600 88 days ago

I picked up a SIlverball Mania yesterday and of course it has a couple of issues that I could use some help with.

The game boots and plays sometimes.

If it kicks out a ball & plays, when the first ball drains the game resets.

If it won't kick out a ball, everytime I push the start game button 1100 points is added to the score.

The trough switch looks good and like it hasn't been changed or resoldered since new and the diode appears to be in properly.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks.

Robert

IMG_20190718_175036 (resized).jpg

IMG_20190718_175904 (resized).jpg

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