(Topic ID: 85292)

Bally/Stern AS-2518 Club !


By mof

4 years ago



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There are 1402 posts in this topic. You are on page 28 of 29.
#1351 24 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Does anyone happen to have a part number or link to the correct flipper relay on the Bally/Stern driver board?

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=LB2-48DP

#1352 24 days ago

Thank you! I need to order some other parts from them and will just add on to the order.

#1353 22 days ago

Question about the Bally and Stern Solienoid driver boards. It it my understanding that the regular Bally AS-2518 and Stern SDU-100 boards are interchangeable. Upon looking over a couple versions of the Bally board I noticed something odd on J3. On one of the Bally boards pins 18-24 are all tied together on the back of the board. On a different Bally board and the Stern board pins 23 and 24 are separate from pins 18-22.

I'd like to verify that there isn't a solder bridge on that first Bally board or if it is ok if the other boards should be bridged the same to tie grounds together at the board.

#1354 21 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Question about the Bally and Stern Solienoid driver boards. It it my understanding that the regular Bally AS-2518 and Stern SDU-100 boards are interchangeable. Upon looking over a couple versions of the Bally board I noticed something odd on J3. On one of the Bally boards pins 18-24 are all tied together on the back of the board. On a different Bally board and the Stern board pins 23 and 24 are separate from pins 18-22.
I'd like to verify that there isn't a solder bridge on that first Bally board or if it is ok if the other boards should be bridged the same to tie grounds together at the board.

A3-18 thru 24 are all ground connections.
Yes, you can connect them.
On Stern SDU boards they kept the Solenoid ground seperately and maybe on some early Bally boards.

Also follow the instructions as layed out on www.pinwiki.com
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Solenoid_Driver_Upgrades

Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl

#1355 21 days ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

A3-18 thru 24 are all ground connections.
Yes, you can connect them.
On Stern SDU boards they kept the Solenoid ground seperately and maybe on some early Bally boards.
Also follow the instructions as layed out on www.pinwiki.com
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Solenoid_Driver_Upgrades
Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl

Hello Peter,

I've added the extra jumpers on the board but the Wiki never mentioned tying the grounds on pins 23 and 24 to the others on 18-22 or that some versions already had those tied together. I guess if they should be then that would be good to update the Wiki. I didn't know there was a difference until I had a couple different versions of the board and thought one may have had a solder bridge.

#1356 20 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Question about the Bally and Stern Solienoid driver boards.

Another difference between the two solenoid driver boards is that Bally fitted a 2.2 ohm resistor at R50, while Stern fitted a 4.7 ohm resistor which results in their 5V supply being a fraction higher (around 5.2 volts compared to Ballys 5.1 volts.).

#1357 20 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Hello Peter,
I've added the extra jumpers on the board but the Wiki never mentioned tying the grounds on pins 23 and 24 to the others on 18-22 or that some versions already had those tied together. I guess if they should be then that would be good to update the Wiki. I didn't know there was a difference until I had a couple different versions of the board and thought one may have had a solder bridge.

Can you post some images of the board in question?
Maybe the type of board or markings on the board.

#1358 20 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

Another difference between the two solenoid driver boards is that Bally fitted a 2.2 ohm resistor at R50, while Stern fitted a 4.7 ohm resistor which results in their 5V supply being a fraction higher (around 5.2 volts compared to Ballys 5.1 volts.).

Some Stern driver boards do not have a high voltage fuse.

#1359 20 days ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

Can you post some images of the board in question?
Maybe the type of board or markings on the board.

I'll get some pictures of the boards and post them.

#1360 19 days ago

there is at least four different stern driver boards. The last ones they made are the nicest with silk screen information printed all over. The HV circuit is different on those too. It seems like they attempted a shutdown circuit but the damn thing burns up when the HV transistors short like the earlier HV circuit does.

#1361 19 days ago

Attached are pictures of the STERN SDU-100 B432 board out of a Flight 2000. I've cleaned the board, installed a new 5V cap, replaced a bad driver for the lockout coil, and added the extra jumpers to tie the 5V lines together and provide the common grounds. On this board pins 23 and 24 don't tie into the other grounds like one of the Bally boards I have. Maybe these should also be jumpered to the other ground connections next to it on pins 18-22.

I have a new relay on the way and need to fix a couple traces for the left flipper. Then I can put on the HV shield and it should be done.

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#1362 19 days ago

My Xenon project is in need of a transformer and rectifier board. Does anybody have one to sell? I don't mind rebuilding it.

#1363 19 days ago

This Bally AS-2518-16 is very similar to the STERN board in that it also has the ground for pins 23 and 24 separate from pins 18-22. Both this board and the STERN board lack the extra fuse for the display power.

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#1364 19 days ago

This Bally AS-2518-22 has the ground for pins 18 through 24 all tied together. This board has a fuse for the display power.

Since this looks like a newer board it seems that maybe the earlier boards could be updated the same way. Is anyone already combining the grounds like this on the earlier boards?

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#1365 17 days ago

Happy Thanksgiving and a once again functioning Playboy after replacing this rectifier board.

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#1366 17 days ago
Quoted from Buzz:

Happy Thanksgiving and a once again functioning Playboy after replacing this rectifier board.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I would like to have that old board if you have no need for it.

#1367 16 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

This Bally AS-2518-22 has the ground for pins 18 through 24 all tied together. This board has a fuse for the display power.
Since this looks like a newer board it seems that maybe the earlier boards could be updated the same way. Is anyone already combining the grounds like this on the earlier boards?
[quoted image][quoted image]

I would combine those grounds.
It is always better to have multiple ground wires.
I've done the same kind of upgrade to the Gottlieb System 80 driver board.
Works perfectly.

#1368 13 days ago

Took my kid down to play (he's 2 1/2) and for the first time (since he's an impatient player ), I noticed that even during the boot up cycle, my Strikes/Spares has functioning flippers. Other than 'it's incorrect', is there any reason to rush to fix it? Pretty sure I know how, just trying to figure out where in my list of fixes I need to prioritize it.

#1369 13 days ago
Quoted from statictrance:

Took my kid down to play (he's 2 1/2) and for the first time (since he's an impatient player ), I noticed that even during the boot up cycle, my Strikes/Spares has functioning flippers. Other than 'it's incorrect', is there any reason to rush to fix it? Pretty sure I know how, just trying to figure out where in my list of fixes I need to prioritize it.

I had a solid state BlackJack that had the same issue. The flipper relay was fine but the transistor array that then fires the larger secondary coil transistor had failed shorted. I had flippers from the instant the power was on. No big deal but it was weird to tilt the machine and still be able to play.

#1370 13 days ago

Here's a Nitro Ground Shaker that I just posted for sale:
71808

#1371 13 days ago

That should read:

Machine - For Sale
Partially shopped/refurbished “Nitro Ground Shaker, Bally 1980. 100% working condition. Brand new backglass, plastic set and drop targets. Playfield touched up around pop bumpers, looks pretty good. Cabinet ...”
13 days ago
Jarrettsville, MD
1,395

1 week later
#1372 5 days ago

I’ve searched and can’t find the answer.

What type of Diode for an Evel Knievel Slingshot coil?

#1373 5 days ago
Quoted from Aladdin:

I’ve searched and can’t find the answer.
What type of Diode for an Evel Knievel Slingshot coil?

1N4004

#1374 5 days ago
Quoted from Aladdin:

I’ve searched and can’t find the answer.

Guess you picked the wrong week...

#1375 3 days ago
Quoted from pinfixer:

This is a classic "filter cap has died" description. Replace C23 on the solenoid driver board and this should clear up the reboot problem. While you're at it be sure to resolder any "cold solder" connections on the SDB at the same time. Pinwiki.com has a great section about updating the SDB which cleans up a couple of ground issues and gets rid of the pesky external jumper between pins 13 and 25 on J3. If the external jumper is flaky you can get the reboot issue too, but I'd put good money on C23. Whenever I get a game, C23 is the first thing I swap out no matter what. I usually use 15k-20k with a voltage rating of 25-35 volts. They're cheap and Bigdaddy sells a rebuild kit for the SDB for about the price of just the C23 cap alone.

Is there a way to test these caps or do you just replace them? I have a Strikes and Spares that boots up but no solenoids work,even during self test. The MPU works fine and even scores a game and ball count/credits. (No solenoids work and I get power to coils) I bought this machine with no boards in it, installed alltek MPU, a rebuilt power supply/rectifier board and repinned connectors, used (UNTESTED) solenoid driver board and a used tested lamp board.

#1376 3 days ago
Quoted from Heaterguy:

Is there a way to test these caps or do you just replace them? I have a Strikes and Spares that boots up but no solenoids work,even during self test. The MPU works fine and even scores a game and ball count/credits. (No solenoids work and I get power to coils) I bought this machine with no boards in it, installed alltek MPU, a rebuilt power supply/rectifier board and repinned connectors, used (UNTESTED) solenoid driver board and a used tested lamp board.

Just replace them. They dry out over time and therefore don't filter the DC as well. I don't even mess with them, I clip them and replace them before I even start testing or rebuilding the board. To your point about the solenoids, the filter cap is for the +5 volt logic section and completely independent of the solenoid voltage. I'd suggest checking the under playfield fuse and fuse holder. I'll bet it's toast.

#1377 3 days ago

Thx.
I plan on replacing them. I believe they are original.I already checked the fuse (s) also cleaned the fuse terminals.
Any other thoughts?
I am getting 44 volts to coils.

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#1378 2 days ago
Quoted from Heaterguy:

Any other thoughts?
I am getting 44 volts to coils.

Measure the voltage at TP3 on the solenoid driver board. If you don't measure 5 volts then re-terminate the brown-green wire that runs between pins 13 and 25 at connector J3 or just solder a wire from TP1 to TP3 on the back of the solenoid driver board.

#1379 2 days ago

What Quench said - Do the TP1 to TP3 wire mod on the back of the board to solidify that 5v. I've had coils drop out on my Big Game and F2K in the last few weeks - both resolved in 5 minutes by that mod. (and I'd repinned the connector on both)

#1380 2 days ago
Quoted from statictrance:

What Quench said - Do the TP1 to TP3 wire mod on the back of the board to solidify that 5v. I've had coils drop out on my Big Game and F2K in the last few weeks - both resolved in 5 minutes by that mod. (and I'd repinned the connector on both)

If you look at previous posts in this thread I have some pictures of a few different Bally and Stern driver boards that I added that jumper for the +5V as well as a couple for ground mods. Definitely helps make a solid game.

There also some extra jumpers for the early bridge/power boards too.

#1381 2 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

Measure the voltage at TP3 on the solenoid driver board. If you don't measure 5 volts then re-terminate the brown-green wire that runs between pins 13 and 25 at connector J3 or just solder a wire from TP1 to TP3 on the back of the solenoid driver board.

Thanks, I think LOL....Wierd stuff is happening, on game start the pop bumpers pop instead of chimes.
I soldered the jumper because I was not getting voltage and now solenoids fire but the pop bumpers are firing instead of the Chimes, the out hole and saucer do not fire (including when in self test) During self test when the Chimes should fire, the pop bumpers fire and one of the left lower slingshots fire. Same thing during game play. I'm certain the J plugs are connected correctly to the solenoid driver board I even verified the wire colors in the connectors and re pinned them. I have the correct game configured for the alltek mpu. I am going to do a memory clear and reset for strikes and Spares and see what that does.

20181207_182513 (resized).jpg
#1382 2 days ago

Repinning or reflowing connectors is a likely fix. I fixed a mata hari with this same issue recently, I think it was the right side connectors on the MPU.

#1383 2 days ago

i repinned the .156 pins, dont have the small ones for the red mpu connectors though.

#1384 2 days ago
Quoted from Heaterguy:

i repinned the .156 pins, dont have the small ones for the red mpu connectors though.

Save yourself a lot of grief .. re-pin ALL connectors, both male & females. Been there, done that.
Time consuming, yes.

#1385 2 days ago
Quoted from dasvis:

Save yourself a lot of grief .. re-pin ALL connectors, both male & females. Been there, done that.
Time consuming, yes.

God I hate it, still have about a hundred to go on my system 1 Gottlieb Genie.

I plan on repinning all of them on this game however I don't think that's the problem there's some really wacky stuff going on when the pop bumpers are firing instead of the Chimes

#1387 2 days ago
Quoted from Heaterguy:

now solenoids fire but the pop bumpers are firing instead of the Chimes...

As everyone said, you've got a connector issue on the signals between the MPU board and the Solenoid Driver Board (SDB) that indicate which solenoids to activate.
I don't have facebook so can't see your video but from your first description, the signal with issue is the red-white wire between MPU J4 pin 1 and SDB J4 pin 3. You should just re-terminate all wires on those connectors though.

#1388 2 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

As everyone said, you've got a connector issue on the signals between the MPU board and the Solenoid Driver Board (SDB) that indicate which solenoids to activate.
I don't have facebook so can't see your video but from your first description, the signal with issue is the red-white wire between MPU J4 pin 1 and SDB J4 pin 3. You should just re-terminate all wires on those connectors though.

Yes I need to get some of the small Molex pins because I don't have any for the red connectors and you (and others) are certainly correct.... I scraped the red white wire on pin 1 of j4 and now it is not miss triggering however the chime still doesnt work so I will have to get some of the small pins and go to work thank you all for the excellent advice.

#1389 2 days ago
Quoted from Heaterguy:

I scraped the red white wire on pin 1 of j4 and now it is not miss triggering however the chime still doesnt work

Exactly which solenoids are not working in solenoid test mode - are any still activating at the wrong time?

#1390 2 days ago

Well currently none of the solenoids are working in self test mode but when I scraped the pins on j-4 now they are loose I just need to replace them they are obviously shot. I'm pretty happy though because I saved this machine from the scrap Heap convinced the cellar not to part it out bought it for $100 it had no boards or power supply just a populated Playfield and the displays ( two of which are out) it took me a year's time to get around to this thing but I collected all the boards and bought a new alltek mpu. The wiring harness was hacked at the rectifier board someone had doubled up the two GI lighting circuits on to the first two pins and soldered them. So I have made a lot of progress just need to get those doggone Tiny pins and tons of them it looks like LOL

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#1391 2 days ago
Quoted from Heaterguy:

I'm pretty happy though because I saved this machine from the scrap Heap convinced the cellar not to part it out bought it for $100

Glad you're saving this ol' girl. Keep at it! Sounds like the terminals at the MPU J4 connector got hit with battery corrosion from the original MPU board.

#1392 2 days ago
Quoted from Piparoo:

Thanks for the lamp advice fellas. Has anyone had success with no flicker bulbs in the switched lamps, like comet pinball's optix bulbs? With a game like NGS, it would be less expensive to go with the no flicker bulbs for the switched lamps, even at $2-$3 a pop, than spring for the $100 alltek board.

The issue in games like Nitro Ground Shaker is different and the no flicker bulbs would still likely show problems.

There is a fix that would cost all of one dollar tho. Buy a pack of 470ohm resistors on ebay. Solder the 470R across any lamp that shows flickering. Not all lamps will need a resistor. Use lamp test to find the ones that do.

A No Flicker bulb would probably be a good choice for GI tho in that game. I assume no flicker bulbs would have diodes and a capacitor in them that helps the LED stay lit even on an AC or pulsing supply that goes down to zero which shows up as the strobe / flicker effect.

#1393 2 days ago
Quoted from barakandl:

The issue in games like Nitro Ground Shaker is different and the no flicker bulbs would still likely show problems.
There is a fix that would cost all of one dollar tho. Buy a pack of 470ohm resistors on ebay. Solder the 470R across any lamp that shows flickering. Not all lamps will need a resistor. Use lamp test to find the ones that do.
A No Flicker bulb would probably be a good choice for GI tho in that game. I assume no flicker bulbs would have diodes and a capacitor in them that helps the LED stay lit even on an AC or pulsing supply that goes down to zero which shows up as the strobe / flicker effect.

I've used Comet 2SMDs in the GI with good results. For controlled lamps, Siegecraft lamp boards have been good. Just make sure they're getting 5V and you should be able to use any LEDs without the strobing effect. Again, I prefer Comet 2SMDs.

Or soldering resistors to lamp sockets is another alternative like you mentioned.

#1394 1 day ago
Quoted from Heaterguy:

Thanks, I think LOL....Wierd stuff is happening, on game start the pop bumpers pop instead of chimes.
I soldered the jumper because I was not getting voltage and now solenoids fire but the pop bumpers are firing instead of the Chimes, the out hole and saucer do not fire (including when in self test) During self test when the Chimes should fire, the pop bumpers fire and one of the left lower slingshots fire. Same thing during game play. I'm certain the J plugs are connected correctly to the solenoid driver board I even verified the wire colors in the connectors and re pinned them. I have the correct game configured for the alltek mpu. I am going to do a memory clear and reset for strikes and Spares and see what that does.[quoted image]

I can see a problem with the print headers.
It's not unlikely that there are more pins bad.
Look at the red circle....

Backside_circle (resized).jpg
#1395 1 day ago

Good eyes inkochnito ^^^
Inspect the soldering on the other pin headers in case more need to be resoldered.

#1396 1 day ago
Quoted from Quench:

Good eyes inkochnito ^^^
Inspect the soldering on the other pin headers in case more need to be resoldered.

Earlier in this thread there was also the discussion about combining the grounds for those last two pins with the group above. It looked like that was done at the factory on later boards.

#1397 1 day ago
Quoted from Quench:

Good eyes inkochnito ^^^
Inspect the soldering on the other pin headers in case more need to be resoldered.

Should just replace the headers anyway. No doubt the plating has been compromised.

#1398 12 hours ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

I can see a problem with the print headers.
It's not unlikely that there are more pins bad.
Look at the red circle....

Wow Thank you thank you thank you! Upon close inspection there are 3 other ones even worse. (Loose)
I did not even think to reflow the pins as I have not had to do that except for one other machine. Will definitely do that when I replace C 23. One more question I have is the smaller red Molex connector pins....are they .100 or .093 Size? I have .156 trifuricons and re pinned those already but need about 200 of the smaller ones and don’t have any, as I have not had to do these type before. Do they remove the same way as the .156 pins do?

#1399 12 hours ago
Quoted from Heaterguy:

Wow Thank you thank you thank you! Upon close inspection there are 3 other ones even worse. (Loose)
I did not even think to reflow the pins as I have not had to do that except for one other machine. Will definitely do that when I replace C 23. One more question I have is the smaller red Molex connector pins....are they .100 or .093 Size? I have .156 trifuricons and re pinned those already but need about 200 of the smaller ones and don’t have any, as I have not had to do these type before. Do they remove the same way as the .156 pins do?

The red molex connectors use the .100 pins.
Yes, the same way as the .156 pins.
Do the ground upgrades as mentioned in the Pinwiki.
They are really a MUST do.

#1400 9 hours ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

The red molex connectors use the .100 pins.
Yes, the same way as the .156 pins.
Do the ground upgrades as mentioned in the Pinwiki.
They are really a MUST do.

Will definitely do so thanks again.

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