(Topic ID: 85292)

Bally/Stern AS-2518 Club !

By mof

10 years ago


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There are 3,868 posts in this topic. You are on page 23 of 78.
#1101 5 years ago

There could be, I don't know. I haven't ordered any switches from PBR.

1 week later
#1102 5 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

There could be, I don't know. I haven't ordered any switches from PBR.

Just to follow up, PBR offered the same part number and they work perfectly.

#1103 5 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

What are some ways to troubleshoot a leaf switch not registering? It is a rollover switch on Frontier. Contacts were cleaned and are shiny. The switch gap is adjusted correctly and continuity is confirmed with a DDM. It appears that the disc cap has been cut off, but it should still registering with a manual press during a ball in play. I have not reflowed the solder connecting the wires but that'll be my next step. I have not checked for anything on the MPU or connectors and have not reflowed solder to the header pins yet. Just got the game a couple days ago so I'm not sure what the solder looks like on the boards. TIA!

Ok. Someone help me understand this. From what I'm seeing on the switch matrix, the star rollover switch is physically in line (connected with) 1) spinner 2) Left target 3) Center target 4)Right target and all of that goes through connector J2 on the MPU?

So if I were to check continuity with a DMM, would I need to check with the 1st probe at the rollover, then the 2nd probe at the spinner, then move the 2nd probe to left target etc until I find there is no continuity? Spinner and all 3 targets work.

Frontier switch Matrix (resized).jpgFrontier switch Matrix (resized).jpg
#1104 5 years ago

Could be the I0 line too. Does the 30 point rebound and bottom side drop target work? The switches are arranged in a matrix like a huge tic-tac-toe board. There is no "common" or "ground" to any switch. Each has a strobe and return. In the case of the schematic above it's ST0 through ST4 and I0 through I7.

Each strobe wire and return wire are connected daisy chain from the first (closest to the MPU) to the last (furthest from the MPU.) You will know you've hit the end of the line because there's only one wire soldered to the lug. All the others will have two wires of the same color and banding on them. The other lug will be the same except it will presumably be a different color and banding.

Personally, if you think the switch is bad just put your ohm meter into "continuity" mode or "beep test" and it will beep when there is a short across the leads. Put one on each lug and try the switch blades. You also need to bypass the blocking diode in this mode to ensure you're testing across the switch blades, not weather or not the diode is working. If you look physically at the switch and you don't see gold chances are someone has used a point file and the contacts have oxidized and need to be replaced. I had to do this with almost every switch on a Xenon one time. Techs at the time were still thinking like EM games and thought switches needed to be burnished to scrape the carbon off. Solid state games used gold plated switches and the file was a death knell to them. I was taught to use a business card or paper money to "polish" the gold plated switches.

Extra credit to the Bally Engineers who capacitor coupled all the switches so you can adjust them live while the game is in play. Try that with a Gottlieb or Williams game of the same era!

#1105 5 years ago
Quoted from pinfixer:

Could be the I0 line too. Does the 30 point rebound and bottom side drop target work? The switches are arranged in a matrix like a huge tic-tac-toe board. There is no "common" or "ground" to any switch. Each has a strobe and return. In the case of the schematic above it's ST0 through ST4 and I0 through I7.
Each strobe wire and return wire are connected daisy chain from the first (closest to the MPU) to the last (furthest from the MPU.) You will know you've hit the end of the line because there's only one wire soldered to the lug. All the others will have two wires of the same color and banding on them. The other lug will be the same except it will presumably be a different color and banding.
Personally, if you think the switch is bad just put your ohm meter into "continuity" mode or "beep test" and it will beep when there is a short across the leads. Put one on each lug and try the switch blades. You also need to bypass the blocking diode in this mode to ensure you're testing across the switch blades, not weather or not the diode is working. If you look physically at the switch and you don't see gold chances are someone has used a point file and the contacts have oxidized and need to be replaced. I had to do this with almost every switch on a Xenon one time. Techs at the time were still thinking like EM games and thought switches needed to be burnished to scrape the carbon off. Solid state games used gold plated switches and the file was a death knell to them. I was taught to use a business card or paper money to "polish" the gold plated switches.
Extra credit to the Bally Engineers who capacitor coupled all the switches so you can adjust them live while the game is in play. Try that with a Gottlieb or Williams game of the same era!

I'll have to take a closer look when I get home. I've been working on other things on this game and am finally to the point where everything is playing nicely, except this. I tested continuity across the leaf blades and that seemed to work. I'll have to test the diode, but might just replace it anyway. I'll need to do much more investigating! Thanks for a good starting point!

#1106 5 years ago

Space Invaders seems to boot, but then the LED does two blinks and then fades during a third blink. The inserts never go into attract mode, but there is a nice pew pew pew sound that comes from the speaker. Pretty short, and faint, but is there. Normally when Lost World (my reference game) wouldn't fully boot it would just lock up. This feels a little different with SI.

#1107 5 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Space Invaders seems to boot, but then the LED does two blinks and then fades during a third blink. The inserts never go into attract mode, but there is a nice pew pew pew sound that comes from the speaker. Pretty short, and faint, but is there. Normally when Lost World (my reference game) wouldn't fully boot it would just lock up. This feels a little different with SI.

So the next time I turned it on to show somebody what it was doing, it booted like it was fine. Ok, let's try playing, because it not booting wasn't the original issue. Player one starts a game, not sure if they hit the flippers, or a switch on the playfield, game dies. Reboots itself, and goes into attract mode. This is the issue that was popping up before I bought the game.

#1108 5 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Player one starts a game, not sure if they hit the flippers, or a switch on the playfield, game dies.

Couple of possibilities. Eliminate the easy first. Check that the fuses are tight in their holders. If any are loose, squeeze the clips together a little and pop the fuse back in.

Check for 5 volts at the CPU. Low or fluctuating volts will cause the reset circuit to reset when it should not. If the 5VDC is flaky at the CPU start going backwards through the boards to the rectifier board and find the problem. With these old Ballys it could be a variety of issues from connectors to bad solder joints.

#1109 5 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

Couple of possibilities. Eliminate the easy first. Check that the fuses are tight in their holders. If any are loose, squeeze the clips together a little and pop the fuse back in.
Check for 5 volts at the CPU. Low or fluctuating volts will cause the reset circuit to reset when it should not. If the 5VDC is flaky at the CPU start going backwards through the boards to the rectifier board and find the problem. With these old Ballys it could be a variety of issues from connectors to bad solder joints.

Ok, thanks. I will take a look at things. Funny how the 5V doesn't go directly to the MPU. Seems issue-prone. But, then again these games weren't designed to last this long.

#1110 5 years ago

This is a classic "filter cap has died" description. Replace C23 on the solenoid driver board and this should clear up the reboot problem. While you're at it be sure to resolder any "cold solder" connections on the SDB at the same time. Pinwiki.com has a great section about updating the SDB which cleans up a couple of ground issues and gets rid of the pesky external jumper between pins 13 and 25 on J3. If the external jumper is flaky you can get the reboot issue too, but I'd put good money on C23. Whenever I get a game, C23 is the first thing I swap out no matter what. I usually use 15k-20k with a voltage rating of 25-35 volts. They're cheap and Bigdaddy sells a rebuild kit for the SDB for about the price of just the C23 cap alone.

#1111 5 years ago
Quoted from pinfixer:

This is a classic "filter cap has died" description. Replace C23 on the solenoid driver board and this should clear up the reboot problem. While you're at it be sure to resolder any "cold solder" connections on the SDB at the same time. Pinwiki.com has a great section about updating the SDB which cleans up a couple of ground issues and gets rid of the pesky external jumper between pins 13 and 25 on J3. If the external jumper is flaky you can get the reboot issue too, but I'd put good money on C23. Whenever I get a game, C23 is the first thing I swap out no matter what. I usually use 15k-20k with a voltage rating of 25-35 volts. They're cheap and Bigdaddy sells a rebuild kit for the SDB for about the price of just the C23 cap alone.

Great info! Thanks.

#1112 5 years ago
Quoted from pinfixer:

This is a classic "filter cap has died" description. Replace C23 on the solenoid driver board and this should clear up the reboot problem. While you're at it be sure to resolder any "cold solder" connections on the SDB at the same time. Pinwiki.com has a great section about updating the SDB which cleans up a couple of ground issues and gets rid of the pesky external jumper between pins 13 and 25 on J3. If the external jumper is flaky you can get the reboot issue too, but I'd put good money on C23. Whenever I get a game, C23 is the first thing I swap out no matter what. I usually use 15k-20k with a voltage rating of 25-35 volts. They're cheap and Bigdaddy sells a rebuild kit for the SDB for about the price of just the C23 cap alone.

I replaced this cap today and the game played at least 10 times and no resets. Thanks for the suggestion, seemed to be exactly what was needed.

#1113 5 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

I replaced this cap today and the game played at least 10 times and no resets. Thanks for the suggestion, seemed to be exactly what was needed.

Your board may also benefit from a upgrade.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Solenoid_Driver_Upgrades

Peter
www.inkochnito.nl

#1114 5 years ago

So I'm looking at the manual and can't find a switch matrix for the life of me. I know this era is a 5x8 array and am trying to pinpoint some odd behavior.

Anyone have any idea where to find the switch matrix for a strikes and spares online? Or is it as easy as writing down the switches in order (if so, is it 1, 2, 3 down the first column, or across the row?)

Also - any tips if you get a credit by wiggling a controlled lamp? (Not kidding... Figured I'd start with tracing the wire but had to ask)

#1115 5 years ago
Quoted from statictrance:

So I'm looking at the manual and can't find a switch matrix for the life of me. I know this era is a 5x8 array and am trying to pinpoint some odd behavior.
Anyone have any idea where to find the switch matrix for a strikes and spares online? Or is it as easy as writing down the switches in order (if so, is it 1, 2, 3 down the first column, or across the row?)
Also - any tips if you get a credit by wiggling a controlled lamp? (Not kidding... Figured I'd start with tracing the wire but had to ask)

The manual on IPDB has the switch matrix in it.

#1116 5 years ago

Poor Magic didn't make the cut for games linked to this thread. Is it that bad?

#1117 5 years ago
Quoted from statictrance:

So I'm looking at the manual and can't find a switch matrix for the life of me. I know this era is a 5x8 array and am trying to pinpoint some odd behavior.
Anyone have any idea where to find the switch matrix for a strikes and spares online? Or is it as easy as writing down the switches in order (if so, is it 1, 2, 3 down the first column, or across the row?)
Also - any tips if you get a credit by wiggling a controlled lamp? (Not kidding... Figured I'd start with tracing the wire but had to ask)

Here is a copy of the switch matrix.
I've added the numbers per switch.
Also added some names for unnamed switches.

Peter

Bally_Strikes_and_Spares_SW-M (resized).jpgBally_Strikes_and_Spares_SW-M (resized).jpg
#1118 5 years ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

Here is a copy of the switch matrix.[quoted image]

You killed it man - Thank you so much. I couldn't find this in the manual I printed, must be in the larger PDF version. Either way - my issue is on I1 - That controlled light that's triggering coin ups is hitting on the left coin slot as well. Left coin slot is working fine, but the other non-working switches are the other 4 on that line. Looks like I know exactly where to dig in. Thank you again!

#1119 5 years ago

A bit confused on my Stern Ali. I replaced the rectifier board, and as noted above randomly got it working. That stayed working for weeks. Now, every time I want to start the game, it won't boot... unless I take my multimeter, one lead to ground, and one lead I jumper F2 and F3 on the rectifier board. The game boots as normal... and will continue to boot normally for a day or so. If I don't ground the multimeter, no boot.

So can anyone tell me from that info what I did wrong in replacing the rectifier board and how I can remedy it? Any help is appreciated!

#1120 5 years ago
Quoted from statictrance:

I'm looking at the manual and can't find a switch matrix for the life of me. I know this era is a 5x8 array and am trying to pinpoint some odd behavior.

Anyone have any idea where to find the switch matrix for a strikes and spares online? Or is it as easy as writing down the switches in order (if so, is it 1, 2, 3 down the first column, or across the row?)

ipdb pdf file page 20 and 36.

#1121 5 years ago

Hello everyone,
I picked up a project Fireball II and I’m trying to work out a few “kinks” with the game. Thankfully it powers up and plays!
I’m not real familiar with these early Bally games and have a couple of easy questions but for whatever reason can’t find an answer to them.
1) the backbox lock has been damaged, probably by a screwdriver trying to open the lock. The backglass cabinet lock mechanism doesn’t rotate well at the barrel where the key is inserted to “unlock” the cab. My question is what is the replacement part for the lock on these cabinets?
2) the black plastic caps on the connectors to the boards, are they serving a purpose? If so, if they break are their replacements for them? Specifically the light board.

Thanks for any help!

#1122 5 years ago
Quoted from surfinvet:

Hello everyone,
I picked up a project Fireball II and I’m trying to work out a few “kinks” with the game. Thankfully it powers up and plays!
I’m not real familiar with these early Bally games and have a couple of easy questions but for whatever reason can’t find an answer to them.
1) the backbox lock has been damaged, probably by a screwdriver trying to open the lock. The backglass cabinet lock mechanism doesn’t rotate well at the barrel where the key is inserted to “unlock” the cab. My question is what is the replacement part for the lock on these cabinets?
2) the black plastic caps on the connectors to the boards, are they serving a purpose? If so, if they break are their replacements for them? Specifically the light board.
Thanks for any help!

1) you'll want the 1 1/8" lock to replace.
http://pbresource.com/locks.html

2) they arent necessary to replace

#1123 5 years ago

Stern stars... in the middle of a game the p2 display started matching the output of the credit display and I cant get it to go back. Tried wiggling / reseating everything and cant even get a blink out of it. Stays in p2 after switching displays. Any ideas?

Edit: weird. Nothing would change no matter what I did until I added a credit to the game and it went back to normal. Wtf.

Edit2: something crazy with the credit button getting grounded. Weird stuff. Just need to isolate the button and no more issue I guess

#1124 5 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Stern stars... in the middle of a game the p2 display started matching the output of the credit display and I cant get it to go back. Tried wiggling / reseating everything and cant even get a blink out of it. Stays in p2 after switching displays. Any ideas?
Edit: weird. Nothing would change no matter what I did until I added a credit to the game and it went back to normal. Wtf.
Edit2: something crazy with the credit button getting grounded. Weird stuff. Just need to isolate the button and no more issue I guess

I'd make sure every pin on every display is making good connection. These are infamous for having cold solder joints both at the connector and at the display glass. In your case we're only concerned with the connector to the harness, not the glass. Reason being that all the BCD data is sent to all displays simultaneously. The MPU sorts out which display to trigger at the exact moment that display's information is on the BCD line. I've seen cold solder joints put "garbage" on the BCD line and foul up other displays. It's possible that J4 on the MPU also has cold solder joints. If your MPU has acid damage, or had acid damage repaired, the address and data lines going in and out of the 6810 and 5101 could also be suspect but I'd be sure to fix all the cold solder joints first.

My rule of thumb is before I plug in any of these early Bally/Stern games, I pull all the boards / displays and inspect the pins for cold solder joints. If you do this 1st, 75% of the intermittent problems will disappear. Once done, you can be a lot more sure any fix needed will be an actual problem, not a connection issue.

John

#1125 5 years ago

Yeah that's what I thought at first too. It did turn out to be the credit button legs getting grounded on the inside of the coin door. Created some really weird behavior.

#1126 5 years ago

So I have a quick question about Backbox GI...

I'm finishing up a strikes n Spares - and long story short - the backbox GI seems to be split among 4 wires - White/Red on the upper half, Orange/Green on the lower. I'm assuming 1 line is power, 1 line is return.

When I measure the White and Red - that's certainly the case (one showing no voltage and continuity with ground, the other showing 6.3~). When I measure the Orange and Green (the half of the GI that is out - both are showing at 6.3~)

Here's my question - If I alligator clip the green line that should be a return to ground - the GI lights up no problem. I know the 'correct' thing to do is trace the green wire and find why it has voltage - but this is a barn find game with damage that'll always be players condition and I don't want to spend a ton of time with it. Is there any long term issue bridging the ground line from the green to the other pair on the backbox wire itself? (especially since it's running at such a lower voltage with LEDs now installed). I don't want to make a garbage repair - but I'd rather spend my time resurrecting another machine than running down a problem that might have a 3 minute fix.

#1127 5 years ago
Quoted from statictrance:

So I have a quick question about Backbox GI...
I'm finishing up a strikes n Spares - and long story short - the backbox GI seems to be split among 4 wires - White/Red on the upper half, Orange/Green on the lower. I'm assuming 1 line is power, 1 line is return.
When I measure the White and Red - that's certainly the case (one showing no voltage and continuity with ground, the other showing 6.3~). When I measure the Orange and Green (the half of the GI that is out - both are showing at 6.3~)
Here's my question - If I alligator clip the green line that should be a return to ground - the GI lights up no problem. I know the 'correct' thing to do is trace the green wire and find why it has voltage - but this is a barn find game with damage that'll always be players condition and I don't want to spend a ton of time with it. Is there any long term issue bridging the ground line from the green to the other pair on the backbox wire itself? (especially since it's running at such a lower voltage with LEDs now installed). I don't want to make a garbage repair - but I'd rather spend my time resurrecting another machine than running down a problem that might have a 3 minute fix.

Did you check the connector/headers?

#1128 5 years ago
Quoted from statictrance:

So I have a quick question about Backbox GI...
I'm finishing up a strikes n Spares - and long story short - the backbox GI seems to be split among 4 wires - White/Red on the upper half, Orange/Green on the lower. I'm assuming 1 line is power, 1 line is return.
When I measure the White and Red - that's certainly the case (one showing no voltage and continuity with ground, the other showing 6.3~). When I measure the Orange and Green (the half of the GI that is out - both are showing at 6.3~)
Here's my question - If I alligator clip the green line that should be a return to ground - the GI lights up no problem. I know the 'correct' thing to do is trace the green wire and find why it has voltage - but this is a barn find game with damage that'll always be players condition and I don't want to spend a ton of time with it. Is there any long term issue bridging the ground line from the green to the other pair on the backbox wire itself? (especially since it's running at such a lower voltage with LEDs now installed). I don't want to make a garbage repair - but I'd rather spend my time resurrecting another machine than running down a problem that might have a 3 minute fix.

The green return wire is open circuit so you are seeing the lamp voltage on both side of the lamp sockets. This circuit is just a wire going back to the rectifier board that is probably toasted.

Dodging connector problems has always come back to waste more of my time later. I say fix it right. Also consider say you bridge together both GI circuits return together, which is probably fine with LEDs, but years later the next owner does not like LEDs and puts incandescent back in and the rectifier board burns up.

#1129 5 years ago

Fair points - I'll trace through the wire and do it the correct way. I was thinking the LED draw would make it less than a problem, but keeping the next owner in mind, especially since I don't plan on owning this one for a very long period of time is a very good point.

I already repinned the connector, so it's unfortunately not that easy of a fix, and I'm pretty sure I buzzed it for continuity already, so it may be a board trace/cold solder joint. (Barakandl - not the last one I got from you... I ended up resurrecting the original and keeping yours for whatever next machine comes in with a totally jacked power board)

#1130 5 years ago

Update - I'm an idiot and backbox GI runs off J3 of the rectifier board... I had repinned 1 and 2, 3 didn't look so bad so I let it ride. Pulled it off and lo and behold - the thick Green ground return was crispy after all. One connector and back in business. Learn something new every day in this hobby, I swear...

#1131 5 years ago

Is the white around the front edge of the backbox shipping protection that was never removed?

2018-08-30 12.56.46.jpg2018-08-30 12.56.46.jpg
#1132 5 years ago

While that's possible, I've seen paint peel like that, and I've also seen vinyl coverings peel off like that (like decals or on rails).

#1133 5 years ago

Its definitely tape. Dont know if it's supposed to be decorative or for shipping / packing and was never removed. Now it's like 30 years old and I'm kind of scared to take it off.

#1134 5 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Its definitely tape. Dont know if it's supposed to be decorative or for shipping / packing and was never removed. Now it's like 30 years old and I'm kind of scared to take it off.

take a peek under that bottom left edge. If you can slowly remove it without paint coming off, it might be ok to take off without any real issues. The game looks pretty pristine otherwise. Would be worth the look at least.

#1135 5 years ago

Tech question... Working on a big game using known working SDB and an Altek MPU... Can't get it to boot. Voltages are good for 43 and 5 on the MPU TPs, seem ok on SDB, it's a new regulator board also testing within range. I did switch the jumpers for MPU-200.

I'm assuming it's the very gross connectors at this point. Already repinned the large 25 point SDB but no dice. Thoughts on next ones to start with or anything else that could cause this type of issue? I'm getting 1 flash, then a other second flash, then either it flashes again and stops, or goes like 2-3 more and locks on.

#1136 5 years ago

You did a reset on the alltek right?

#1137 5 years ago

Yeah I tried the reset button. No dice.

Update (got some work in while the kids napped)

If I remove the J1 connector on the MPU, it'll boot (7 flashes and verified via coin door/start a game/switch activation triggers sounds). However I have no solenoids (confirmed voltage present and fuses good) and obviously No lamp or display information.

I tried booting with J1 connected and displays removed, that didn't work. Tried it with just the displays and lamp board disconnected, no luck there either.

Solenoids I believe are going to be the J4 connector... the power is there, logic just isn't firing them. I already repinned MPU J3, so J4 SBD is really all that's left.

At this point I'm thinking I should do every connector then revisit... I may drive myself crazy trying to pin down a cause before redo.

#1138 5 years ago

Not the reset button but you have to set the dips to "reset" and power it up before selecting the game dip setting.

#1139 5 years ago

So - I feel like I need to delete my previous posts... But I'll leave then for posterity and own up to my ridiculous mistakes in case it saves the next guy.

Long story short... This Big Game had a mouse nest in the head, and the harness was in a pretty rough way. I took the whole thing out, ultrasonic cleaned it, then checked it inch by inch to either splice in new wire or use liquid electrical tape to insulate where there weren't any holes.

Long story short in getting everything back together... Lamp Board J1 and MPU J1 are the exact same size with the same key. No joke. I moved the game downstairs as I was at least done cleaning it and realized my mistake reading the schematic and seeing the size and key pin we're good, but the wiring colors weren't matching up. And as I out it back together a second time, my rebuild 'MPU J1' kinda naturally reached to the lamp J1 and I went 'oohhhhh shit'.

Luckily - no improper voltages were shot through either board and it was a harmless mistake. I still feel like a dummy.

#1140 5 years ago

If you're on this thread chances are you've done dumber shit than that at least you didn't fry anything!

#1141 5 years ago

Asked on the Seawitch thread but haven't gotten any replies yet...

My middle drop target bank is sitting about 1/16" above the playfield and causing massive airballs. I don't see an adjustment on the Stern banks like the bally's have. Is there a way to adjust the drop target height that I'm missing or do I have to shim the whole mech? They appear to be the original drops but I'm not positive.

2018-09-04 10.32.01.jpg2018-09-04 10.32.01.jpg2018-09-04 10.32.33.jpg2018-09-04 10.32.33.jpg
#1142 5 years ago

They aren't original cause the originals had the Stern 'S' lightning bolt design on them.

I just had the target bank off my Flight 2k last week and I don't remember seeing a height adjustment. You might get away with just sanding off the bottom of the target little by little to conform with the others.

#1143 5 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

If you're on this thread chances are you've done dumber shit than that at least you didn't fry anything!

*raises hand* Guilty.

#1144 5 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Is there a way to adjust the drop target height that I'm missing or do I have to shim the whole mech? They appear to be the original drops but I'm not positive.

The new repo drop targets , that they use... ,use a bally style
foundation that throws all the height dimensions off.
Sadly, you have to shim the D/T bank assembly in order to make it fit the playfield.
"They appear to be the original drops" Umm.... no.

#1145 5 years ago

Yeah my reference for that was they were the same at the top as the "S" targets that were there and not the wider tops that I knew to be repro. My bad. Shimmed up the whole mech and it seems a lot better.

#1146 5 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Asked on the Seawitch thread but haven't gotten any replies yet...
My middle drop target bank is sitting about 1/16" above the playfield and causing massive airballs. I don't see an adjustment on the Stern banks like the bally's have. Is there a way to adjust the drop target height that I'm missing or do I have to shim the whole mech? They appear to be the original drops but I'm not positive.
[quoted image][quoted image]

You can use some washers and folded tinfoil to shim your mech as much as you need. Buy a pack of #8 washers from your local hardware store and lay one next to your targets when their in the down position to see how much of a gap remains. If the washers are not tall enough to bridge the height of the target then add layers of folded foil until it matches what you need. If the washers are to tall use lengths of folded foil to match. The mech will have 4 screws holding it to the playfield. Place the washers/foil in between the mech and the playfield at the mounting points to properly have it lay flush.

#1147 5 years ago

That's exactly what I ended up doing. The washers were damn near perfect.

#1148 5 years ago

Why did this dude add resistors to the digit drivers?

2018-09-06 11.21.14.jpg2018-09-06 11.21.14.jpg
#1149 5 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Why did this dude add resistors to the digit drivers?
[quoted image]

What type of display is this?
The older Bally displays are missing resistors which are added in the newer type displays.
That may be why...

Peter

#1150 5 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Why did this dude add resistors to the digit drivers?
[quoted image]

What’s on the top side? Some of the traces look like they are going to pads that have nothing in them from the top of the board. Maybe he just put resistors on the botttom that are normally on the top if it was easier.... lots of other components or hard area to work in. If it’s right in front of the display digits that’s a hard space to work in... the display itself likely went on last in manufacturing after all the resistors are populated... hard to work on later without taking the displays off first.

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