(Topic ID: 85292)

Bally/Stern AS-2518 Club !


By mof

4 years ago



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  • 1,111 posts
  • 211 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by desertT1
  • Topic is favorited by 164 Pinsiders

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There are 1111 posts in this topic. You are on page 21 of 23.
#1001 77 days ago

I absolutely cringe at the thought of Windex on a playfield. Vid has a guide for cleaning. Follow that.

#1002 77 days ago

I have a friend that uses a mix of simple green and water. I have only done novus and wax myself. I would like to get my Harlem Globetrotters cleaner but don't want to ruin it as well. It has some wear and some cupped inserts. At this point I've gotten past museum pieces and love a good player with some charm. I've had plenty of new games and that's great but the price and enjoyment on an older classic is priceless in my opinion. I have a pretty good stock pile of incandescent bulbs if your having trouble and need some PM me. This hobby is great and many wonderful people you have chosen a great pin and found a great group here.

#1003 77 days ago

Tastes are funny nowadays I get more excited about someone who found a nice Paragon instead of a new Iron Maiden. LOL. Perhaps it's the fact that it was the late 70's when I started losing quarters in them and some how that's what I have finally found that makes me happy. But hey they are all fun.

#1004 77 days ago
Quoted from Buzz:

Tastes are funny nowadays I get more excited about someone who found a nice Paragon instead of a new Iron Maiden. LOL. Perhaps it's the fact that it was the late 70's when I started losing quarters in them and some how that's what I have finally found that makes me happy. But hey they are all fun.

I think it's just because they're great games.

#1005 77 days ago
Quoted from Buzz:

Tastes are funny nowadays I get more excited about someone who found a nice Paragon instead of a new Iron Maiden. LOL. Perhaps it's the fact that it was the late 70's when I started losing quarters in them and some how that's what I have finally found that makes me happy. But hey they are all fun.

That's understandable. For me, it's similar to seeing someone out driving a nice classic muscle car as opposed to a brand new Corvette. And not even a million dollar show car, just a nice working example. It might not have all of the bells and whistles of a modern car but it'll put a smile on your face.

#1006 77 days ago
Quoted from Buzz:

I have a pretty good stock pile of incandescent bulbs if your having trouble and need some PM me.

I appreciate the offer and I may take you up on that, but is there a decent website to still order incandescent bulbs?

#1007 77 days ago
Quoted from Chuckles37:

but is there a decent website to still order incandescent bulbs?

Amazon
pinballlife.com
http://www.marcospecialties.com/

#1008 74 days ago
Quoted from Chuckles37:

I apologize in advance if these questions aren't in the right place, or if I just need to dig around on pinside more to find the answers, but I am a complete noob to pinball. I've had my Lost World for a few days now, and I have a few questions:
1. Any recommendations on a good site to order replacement light bulbs? I need to replace a handful of burned out ones.
2. Any good recommendations for cleaning a dirty playfield? It seems like there are a lot of differences depending on the age of the machine.
3. The light inside the left slingshot goes out every time the flipper is pressed. Is this just a loose connection or something on the board?
4. Several of the lights in the playfield (extra ball, in lane bonus indicator) only work occasionally. Any idea what might cause those issues?
I appreciate any responses and I'll continue to look around Pinside for answers. I'm not looking to flip this game, I'd just like to know what sorts of things you'd do after buying a game to get it looking and playing well. Thanks.

For #2, I too recommend looking at Vid's gude (especially before I tried Windex, alcohol, battery acid or what have you...) :
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cleaning-and-waxing-pinball-machines-vids-guide
For #3 & 4, check out Clay's Guide. Scroll down to the "Fixing Lamp Sockets" section:
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index2.htm#connect
In almost all occasions, this is much easier than replacing the socket, and might actually last longer. Seriously, it works like a charm!
It looks something like this:

gtblamp1 (resized).jpg
#1009 73 days ago

Can anyone let me know if its safe to slave in a medusa mpu into my flash gordon for troubleshooting? Im trying to nail down a reset issue im having.

#1010 73 days ago
Quoted from Spitfiren8:

Can anyone let me know if its safe to slave in a medusa mpu into my flash gordon for troubleshooting? Im trying to nail down a reset issue im having.

Yes, it is, but the rom chips (U2 & U6) must be the same type (like 2716 or 2516 or masked) for it to work without changing the jumpers.

#1011 69 days ago

Funky issue. One of the chimes on my stars sometimes doesnt work. When it does not work, grounding the transistor will make it work again for the next few games until it randomly fails again some time later. Transistor was replaced, the coil moves freely and isn't sticky or anything. Anyone ever seen this before? SDB related as the problem never occurs with an alltek.

#1012 67 days ago

I'd look at the header pins and connector that drives the solenoid from the MPU. J4 on the MPU, J4 on the SDB. I've even seen the actual wiper inside the connector break causing this issue with the knocker. Also be sure you've updated your SDB with the ground mods as oulined on pinwiki too.

#1013 67 days ago

Here's a few more beginner questions for a late Friday night / early Saturday morning:

1. How important is your power source? I've currently got my Lost World plugged into a surge protector.

2. I've had this machine for a few weeks now, and it feels like it's playing a lot slower than when I first got it. Is that just me getting used to the machine, or could something else be making it feel slower? It almost seems like the pop bumpers and slingshots aren't as powerful now as they were before. I'm also wondering if I need to increase the slope of the playfield.

I hope everyone has a good weekend. I'm going to give the Lost World a day off and hit the arcade on Saturday.

#1014 67 days ago

A surge protector is a good idea but you may want to check the voltage of your outlet. An easy way to do it is with a kill-o-watt

amazon.com link »

It will show the voltage of the outlet and also what your game draws.

In the summer when everyone runs their AC the voltage could drop or you could have a bad transformer on a pole feeding the house. Had that happen a few years ago and the voltage dropped down to around 100v. Messed with the operation of quite a few things.

#1015 65 days ago
Quoted from Chuckles37:

I'm also wondering if I need to increase the slope of the playfield.

Set your leg levelers to all of the way out in the back and all of the way in at the front. Then adjust as necessary for side to side leveling.

#1016 62 days ago

I posted this in the for sale in California thread, but there were no responses...so I'm going to try here too.

I've been retheming a Bally Night Rider (SS) as a Whack-a-Mole game and am having a bit of trouble finding replacement switches for the game.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-night-rider-ss-re-theme

I know there is not a lot of them, but I have been taking new switch stacks apart and reassembling them to mimic the old Bally switches with a bit of difficulty.

If anyone has a source or has some switches that they would part with, I'd appreciate it.

Robert

IMG_20180521_142234 (resized).jpg

IMG_20180521_132816 (resized).jpg

#1017 62 days ago

have you checked PB Resource?

#1018 62 days ago

Or Action Pinball

#1019 61 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

have you checked PB Resource?

Quoted from Jgaltr56:

Or Action Pinball

Yes to both, I've gotten switches and switch parts from both.

One issue I have is the Night Rider manual does not show the P/N's of the switches. So, I look at each one and try to match it up with a picture at Marco, PPS, BAA, PBR, Action PB, PB spare parts, etc.

A couple I got right but others weren't correct...and several I did figure out the P/N are unavailable.

I was hoping that someone here might know more about the actual part numbers or have some that they might be willing to part with.

Robert

#1020 61 days ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

Yes to both, I've gotten switches and switch parts from both.
One issue I have is the Night Rider manual does not show the P/N's of the switches. So, I look at each one and try to match it up with a picture at Marco, PPS, BAA, PBR, Action PB, PB spare parts, etc.
A couple I got right but others weren't correct...and several I did figure out the P/N are unavailable.
I was hoping that someone here might know more about the actual part numbers or have some that they might be willing to part with.
Robert

Did you go thru the parts manuals at Plantary Pinball? Page 24 of the 1979 Part book seems to list them:
http://www.planetarypinball.com/reference/partsmanuals/BLY_Parts_1979/index.html#/24/zoomed

#1021 61 days ago
Quoted from Timerider:

Page 24 of the 1979 Part book seems to list them

Thanks.

Robert

#1022 61 days ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

A surge protector is a good idea but you may want to check the voltage of your outlet. An easy way to do it is with a kill-o-watt
amazon.com link »
It will show the voltage of the outlet and also what your game draws.
In the summer when everyone runs their AC the voltage could drop or you could have a bad transformer on a pole feeding the house. Had that happen a few years ago and the voltage dropped down to around 100v. Messed with the operation of quite a few things.

If the voltage on the outlet is low, is there anything that I can do about that? Some sort of battery backup or something to keep the voltage up? There is a definite correlation between game speed and outside temperature. Today it's 90 out, everyone has the AC on, and the game is slow. A few days ago it dipped into the 60s, everyone turned off the AC, and the game seemed faster.

#1023 61 days ago
Quoted from Chuckles37:

If the voltage on the outlet is low, is there anything that I can do about that? Some sort of battery backup or something to keep the voltage up? There is a definite correlation between game speed and outside temperature. Today it's 90 out, everyone has the AC on, and the game is slow. A few days ago it dipped into the 60s, everyone turned off the AC, and the game seemed faster.

Yes, you can call the utility company and find out why. Before you do that you'll need to have some data to back it up. That is why I mentioned that device. It is also handy to know how much current each game uses so you don't over load circuits in your house.

If you find the voltage is low check other outlets and circuits in your house. If you see any that are high and some low just mention that it seems odd that some lights in your house seem bright. Had that happen to a friend and the utility company replaced the feed to his house. There was an issue with the lines or connections.

In my case when the voltage was low I called and when they came out found a bad transformer on the pole. Now even at peak times the voltage is pretty steady.

There are devices you can put inline to address voltage issues but that could end up being a band aid approach. Better to get to the root of the problem.

#1024 61 days ago

Thanks. I'm planning on picking up that meter when I place my next order on Amazon.

#1025 61 days ago

On Lost World, I just lost half my coils. In coil test mode, 1, 2, 7, 8, 9 fire but not the others. I can't find good info in the manual for a list, but what is working that I know if is at least one sling, only one pop, the trough, and maybe the knocker. I have 43V to everything that is working on the yellow wire. On everything that isn't working, no 43V. Since everything looks like it's daisy-chained I looked at all of the yellow solder points and don't see any wires detached, breaking the chain. Am I missing other areas that might cause the issue?

#1026 61 days ago
Quoted from desertT1:

On Lost World, I just lost half my coils. In coil test mode, 1, 2, 7, 8, 9 fire but not the others. I can't find good info in the manual for a list, but what is working that I know if is at least one sling, only one pop, the trough, and maybe the knocker. I have 43V to everything that is working on the yellow wire. On everything that isn't working, no 43V. Since everything looks like it's daisy-chained I looked at all of the yellow solder points and don't see any wires detached, breaking the chain. Am I missing other areas that might cause the issue?

probably missing a bit of encoded solenoid data. if you look at the 74154 decoder datasheet it will have a truth table you can compare the non working solenoids to and could probably figure out which one is missing. These will be labeled SOL-A, SOL-B, C, D in the schematics. Likely problem is bad connector between MPU J4 and driver board J4. Check for cracked solder joints on the male pins and broken / corroded female crimp contacts if those plugs have not been gone through.

74154 datasheet
http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheets/120/236595_DS.pdf

#1027 61 days ago
Quoted from barakandl:

probably missing a bit of encoded solenoid data. if you look at the 74154 decoder datasheet it will have a truth table you can compare the non working solenoids to and could probably figure out which one is missing. These will be labeled SOL-A, SOL-B, C, D in the schematics. Likely problem is bad connector between MPU J4 and driver board J4. Check for cracked solder joints on the male pins and broken / corroded female crimp contacts if those plugs have not been gone through.
74154 datasheet
http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheets/120/236595_DS.pdf

I just lucked into finding the issue. The left saucer has two wires and they were together and "secure" to the lug. I went over everything a few more times and on the last pass it wiggled a little. Short version is the wires were attached to the lug by melted wire sleeve. Resoldering everything again with a little extra solder seems to have fixed it.

#1028 55 days ago

Have an ongoing problem with my lost world. A while back, the B rollover, middle pop bumper and left saucer switches stopped working. In the midst of trying to figure it out, they started working again and i put aside trying to find the problem. Recently, they went back out. These are switches 23, 31 and 39 and are daisy chained together under the playfield. So far, I've reflowed solder on all pin connectors, crimped on new molex connectors and checked for continuity going from the switches to the back box and have found nothing. Any ideas where to look next?

#1029 55 days ago

Have you checked the diodes on each switch? cleaned them and made sure they make good contact?

#1030 55 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Have you checked the diodes on each switch? cleaned them and made sure they make good contact?

I'll try that and report back

#1031 55 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Have you checked the diodes on each switch? cleaned them and made sure they make good contact?

Unsoldered an end of each diode. They all checked out with a mm.

#1032 55 days ago

your MPU is in good shape? No corrosion?

#1033 55 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

your MPU is in good shape? No corrosion?

Nope. Zero corrosion, no Cold solder joints that i could see.

#1034 55 days ago
Quoted from Jason43:

no Cold solder joints that i could see.

Not sure how young your eyes are but at 45 sometimes mine need a magnifying glass to see 'em.

Just sayin

#1035 55 days ago

maybe this will help. would be where I would start if troubleshooting. There's a section on "row failure" that sounds like what you're experiencing.
http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/solid-state-repair/repair-guides/146-switch-matrix-theory-and-troubleshooting

switch.jpg
#1036 55 days ago
Quoted from Jason43:

Nope. Zero corrosion, no Cold solder joints that i could see.

With glasses and a glass, i couldn't see any. course, that doesn't mean they're not there. Reflowed the pin connectors all around, so hopefully i can rule them out

#1037 55 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

maybe this will help. would be where I would start if troubleshooting. There's a section on "row failure" that sounds like what you're experiencing.
http://pinballrehab.com/1-articles/solid-state-repair/repair-guides/146-switch-matrix-theory-and-troubleshooting

Thanks!

#1038 51 days ago

I'm thinking about reimporting a Bally Frontier from Spain. Does anyone know what kinds of changes would be required to the transformer or rectifier board to allow domestic use? Other things that would have to be changed?

I can change the power cord no problem.

#1039 51 days ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

I'm thinking about reimporting a Bally Frontier from Spain. Does anyone know what kinds of changes would be required to the transformer or rectifier board to allow domestic use? Other things that would have to be changed?
I can change the power cord no problem.

Looks like I have to change some jumpers on the transformer.

#1040 51 days ago

I joined the club last weekend with my first Bally, Harlem Globetrotters. I'm loving the game so far. There are a couple issues I need to diagnose and could use some help going in the right direction.

1st, display problems. The player one and credit/ball display work fine but the other 3 displays all have a different problem. P2 is missing a digit and sometimes shows just a dash where a digit should be. P3 is sometimes missing the bottom segment of every digit. P4 shows all segments, all the time but can't seem to show anything when testing numbers 2-7. Check the picture mashup I created to see what they look like when in test mode. Are all these displays interchangeable so I could swap them around to see if the problems move with the displays?

2nd problem. I randomly ran across this while I had the glass off and was wiping down the play field. If I touch any of the spinners while touching the side rails, the game credits up. It doesn't affect gameplay but it really took me by surprise when it happened.

Jake

HG2 (resized).jpg
#1041 50 days ago

For the displays I would check for broken/cold solder joints at the connector where is is soldered to the PCB. Next I would check the 100k resistors and replace then with 1/2 watt ones. You can read about that fix on the Pinwiki page for the Bally games

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern

There are also some good bulletproofing steps for the driver board and bridge board to add a few jumpers that can make the game. Ore solid.

Does your game have the ground plug on it? I've heard from a friend they can act odd if it is missing.

#1042 50 days ago

Think this is most active thread to try and ask a question so here goes.

If missing the original metal top trim on a classic Stern, do people recommend putting substitute black plastic trim as sold by someone like Action Pinball?

Or just leave glass with no top trim?

Guessing impossible to find original metal top trim.

14 (resized).jpg
#1043 50 days ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Think this is most active thread to try and ask a question so here goes.
If missing the original metal top trim on a classic Stern, do people recommend putting substitute black plastic trim as sold by someone like Action Pinball?
Or just leave glass with no top trim?
Guessing impossible to find original metal top trim.

Check out Gatecrashers repro parts. Looks like all he makes is the metal lift trim, not metal u-channel.

https://images.pinside.com/5/2a/52a32db70762186e50ce5c3a2f212eb4514cee4f/resized/large/52a32db70762186e50ce5c3a2f212eb4514cee4f.jpg

https://pinside.com/pinball/biz/directory/1228-gatecrasher

#1044 50 days ago

His lift kits are awesome. Got a set for a Blackout and for a Meteor. I've never seen a top metal rail like that but if you don't have to lock it the plastic trim should work out ok.

#1045 50 days ago

I wouldn't leave it without any trim. Would make it that much more susceptible to accidentally breaking the glass.

#1046 49 days ago

Bottom trim looks great.

But seems like black plastic is only available option for top trim - for a 1/8th glass?

#1047 49 days ago

If you don't lock the backglass, you take the chance the glass will rattle and rub against the displays. At least move the displays back safely out of the way if you can't find the top metal piece to lock the glass properly.

#1048 49 days ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Bottom trim looks great.
But seems like black plastic is only available option for top trim - for a 1/8th glass?

Maybe but my Meteor only had a couple yellowed white trim pieces and the black ones look so much better than the white ever did.

#1049 49 days ago

I guess black trim is the way to go as no one makes that kind of metal top trim.

Thanks for the help.

#1050 48 days ago

I noticed my backbox lock was broken and thought it would be an easy fix.....

The lock is a different size to anything I can find on the internet.

40mm or 1.5 inches. And it has a bit sticking out for the bar to attach to.

Anyone know where I can buy one??

Thanks

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