(Topic ID: 85292)

Bally/Stern AS-2518 Club !

By mof

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 3,868 posts
  • 368 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 days ago by tatman9999
  • Topic is favorited by 287 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

IMG_1013 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1804 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1847 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1849 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1856 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2083 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2088 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2092 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2091 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2093 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2095 (resized).jpeg
pasted_image (resized).png
IMG_2852 (resized).JPG
IMG_2571 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2849 (resized).JPG
pasted_image (resized).png

There are 3,868 posts in this topic. You are on page 20 of 78.
#951 5 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

Since you have already powered it all up, on the MPU check TP5 for +5vdc. Check TP2 for +12vdc (will read like +16v). TP3 for +21.5v.
On the driver carefully check tp4 for +185v
On the playfied and backbox check for +6vdc on the common bus side of a feature lamp.
General illumination lamps is on coin door, playfield, and backbox.
If something is missing report back or work backwards towards the rectifier board.

I'd like to thank you for your help! I was testing voltages as you suggested, and somehow shorted something on the rectifier board to ground and suddenly the game works. I was filling out the post below when I got to TP4 on the rectifier board and had my multimeter on ground trying to test TP4 on the rectifier board, my hand slipped a bit and I touched the other lead to one of the fuses (F2 or F3, not sure which), there was a tiny spark and suddenly the game boots fine every time. The left sling isn't firing but I will get a replacement for that. There are J-26-1500s in my slings and the game manual calls for J-26-1700s... I'm going to stick with the 1500s to keep it how it was I assume. Anyway, here is what I was seeing for fun. I appreciate the help as I learn this stuff!

Here's what I'm getting. Not quite sure where i should be grounding? The screw on the MPU or the braid at bottom of backbox. I assumed braid.

MPU TP5 - 5.0v
MPU TP2 - 10.55v
MPU TP3 - 23.55v
Driver TP4 - 249.9v
Playfield/Backbox Feature Lamp - 3.9v if i did it right on the back box, but these are LEDs...

Under the playfield, any GI lamp i cant seem to get a reading other than like 1.4v. But on any non-GI lamp (these arent lighting up i assume because the game wont boot) I get 6.4v.

More importantly, on the rectifier board I'm not getting much from TP4. Not sure where my mistake was? Here are the voltages I'm getting from the rectifier board test points:

Rectifier TP1 - 6.47v
Rectifier TP2 - 249.7
Rectifier TP4 - 1.7v

^^^it was at that point as I tested TP4 over and over again the game started working, minus a sling.

#952 5 years ago
Quoted from evanc:

MPU TP2 - 10.55v

your 12v is low. probably the cause of the intermittent booting. The 12v normally reads like 18v on a DMM.

Check the orange wire between the rectifier board and driver board that is labeled something like 12v return on the schematic. It is the isolated 12v ground return and often burns up. Most likely cause of the low 12v.

Consider doing the driver board ground mods on the pinwiki and rebuilding the current carrying plugs like the top right driver board and lower left mpu.

#953 5 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

your 12v is low. probably the cause of the intermittent booting. The 12v normally reads like 18v on a DMM.
Check the orange wire between the rectifier board and driver board that is labeled something like 12v return on the schematic. It is the isolated 12v ground return and often burns up. Most likely cause of the low 12v.
Consider doing the driver board ground mods on the pinwiki and rebuilding the current carrying plugs like the top right driver board and lower left mpu.

I rebuilt the connectors as you suggested and am getting 13.8v on MPU TP2 now. I also have one of your replacement boards on the way just for reliability, so double thanks.

I was looking into why the left sling won't fire. If I'm reading the schematic right, Q2 is the right transistor for me to check out. With the game off, I tested it per the repair guide and not just Q2, but all transistors test fine. So next I'll test for voltage at the coil, since it isn't locked on and the transistors seem fine. It'll be up and running soon!

#954 5 years ago
Quoted from Piparoo:

Thanks for the lamp advice fellas. Has anyone had success with no flicker bulbs in the switched lamps, like comet pinball's optix bulbs? With a game like NGS, it would be less expensive to go with the no flicker bulbs for the switched lamps, even at $2-$3 a pop, than spring for the $100 alltek board.

The issue in Bally world is a bit different than normal flickering/ghosting because of the circuitry that drives them. A "no ghosting" or "no flicker" bulb will not be a (100%) fix for bally games.

I am surprised LED bulb sellers/suppliers haven't put a $0.003 resistor across the leads of the pinball LED lamps to create and sell a "bally" line of LED bulbs. That would probably kill the aftermarket LED supporting lamp boards.

#955 5 years ago

I have a Bally Black Jack and the flippers stopped working after a new power rectifier board was installed, but everything else seems fine.

Test points measure within expected values on all boards. I get 7 flashes and the relay clicks on the fifth flash.

The relay will pull in if I ground the tab of Q15, UNLESS I HAVE STARTED A GAME: then it will not.

The game has previously treated alkalinity damage on the MPU and a new power rectifier board.

I'm pretty sure it's a connector issue and from what I have read I know the recommendation is to do new connectors and sockets, but I'm not comfortable with that yet and I want to understand this specific problem first.

Among the things I've checked:

• Ground tab on Q15: relay pulls in (if not in game)
• 45vdc at each flipper coil lug, 45vdc at SDB J1-8 and J1-9
• NO 45VDC at flipper switches (?)
• Ground flipper coil lug: flipper coil does fire
• Continuity from flipper button switches to boards:
o Continuity from (orange) flipper return to PRB J2-9 ...shouldn't I be able to read 43v here?
o Continuity from (red) flipper power to SDB J2-1
o Continuity from (blue) flipper power to SDB J2-2
• Continuity on EOS switches
• Reflowed header pins on SDB and MPU
• Test point voltages as expected on all three boards
• Did recommended ground modifications

Where should I be focusing to get the flippers working?

I keep coming back to PRB J2-9. I guess I don’t understand what I should read on it as the “flipper return”. As I understand it, the return goes back to the transformer to complete the circuit. In a properly working machine, would that read 45VDC when a flipper is engaged? What about when the flipper is not engaged?

#956 5 years ago

Focus on the relay getting to work correctly.
That is way you don't see any voltage at the flipper buttons.
Check for continuity between SDB (A3)J4-8 and CPU (A4)J4-7.
This is the line which activates the relay.

#957 5 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

I am surprised LED bulb sellers/suppliers haven't put a $0.003 resistor across the leads of the pinball LED lamps to create and sell a "bally" line of LED bulbs.

A year or two ago I tried to get ADT to make me some for personal use and I tried to convince them there is a market for these. But they didn't seem overly interested. I sent them the attached slideshow. MOQ per color/type was 1000 pieces but they wouldn't make me any samples to ensure they were going to get it right first time. In the end I just modified some myself. Problem is some LEDs are full of glue in the bayonet and aren't possible to pull apart without damaging them.

output_8xk02S.gifoutput_8xk02S.gif

#958 5 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

A year or two ago I tried to get ADT to make me some for private use and I tried to convince them there is a market for these. But they didn't seem overly interested. I sent them the attached slideshow. MOQ per color/type was 1000 pieces but they wouldn't make me any samples to ensure they were going to get it right first time. In the end I just modified some myself. Problem is some LEDs are full of glue in the bayonet and aren't possible to pull apart without damaging them.

Brilliant! I wish I saw this before I soldered about 40 sockets.

16632A3B-5CD7-49AA-899F-58517B8E1B14 (resized).jpeg16632A3B-5CD7-49AA-899F-58517B8E1B14 (resized).jpeg

#959 5 years ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

Focus on the relay getting to work correctly.
That is why you don't see any voltage at the flipper buttons.
Check for continuity between SDB (A3)J4-8 and CPU (A4)J4-7.
This is the line which activates the relay.

Thanks @inkochnito,

I verified continuity between SDB J4-8 and CPU J4-7 - also past the headers into the board.
The relay pulls in during solenoid test mode and when grounding Q15 (in attract mode only.)
Any next steps?

I believe the traces in the damaged area all buzzed out earlier, but maybe I'd better take another look down there.

20180519_201149_001 (resized).jpg20180519_201149_001 (resized).jpg

20180519_201126 (resized).jpg20180519_201126 (resized).jpg

#960 5 years ago
Quoted from JohnBillerman:

I verified continuity between SDB J4-8 and CPU J4-7 - also past the headers into the board.
The relay pulls in during solenoid test mode and when grounding Q15 (in attract mode only.)
Any next steps?

I believe the traces in the damaged area all buzzed out earlier, but maybe I'd better take another look down there.

Not to be interrupting, but why do you have the crappy IC sockets on your CPU board?
They are awful and cause a lot of problems.

#961 5 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Not to be interrupting, but why do you have the crappy IC sockets on your CPU board?
They are awful and cause a lot of problems.

As I stated, I recognize that the general recommendation is to replace the sockets and repin the headers - but I'm not comfortable doing that yet and want to understand this problem before shotgunning things.

#962 5 years ago
Quoted from JohnBillerman:

I have a Bally Black Jack and the flippers stopped working after a new power rectifier board was installed, but everything else seems fine.

Test points measure within expected values on all boards. I get 7 flashes and the relay clicks on the fifth flash.

The relay will pull in if I ground the tab of Q15, UNLESS I HAVE STARTED A GAME: then it will not.

O.K. did you replace the 1N4004 diode CR15?

#963 5 years ago
Quoted from JohnBillerman:

Thanks inkochnito,
I verified continuity between SDB J4-8 and CPU J4-7 - also past the headers into the board.
The relay pulls in during solenoid test mode and when grounding Q15 (in attract mode only.)
Any next steps?
I believe the traces in the damaged area all buzzed out earlier, but maybe I'd better take another look down there.

If the relay works in solenoid test mode, it should be working during a game.

#964 5 years ago

Have you seen the Pinwiki entry for the Bally machines?

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Solenoid_Driver_Board_Issues

If you have that board out you may want to think about the updates to the back of the board to install the extra jumpers. There is also a ton of great info on that page.

#965 5 years ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Brilliant! I wish I saw this before I soldered about 40 sockets.

I saw you post that picture somewhere else and really liked the neat way you mounted that load resistor - so much so that I'll probably be employing your technique on a friends machine, thanks!

#966 5 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Have you seen the Pinwiki entry for the Bally machines?
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Solenoid_Driver_Board_Issues
If you have that board out you may want to think about the updates to the back of the board to install the extra jumpers. There is also a ton of great info on that page.

Thank you Robotworkshop - I have already applied the updates.

**I recall now that I had installed an NVRAM when the dead-flipper problem started.**

I won't be able to look at this game again until the weekend, but I'm really suspecting that socket now. I plan on pulling the MPU board and re-examining the alkaline affected area.

If anyone has ideas between now and then, I'm all ears!

#967 5 years ago

My Viking is acting up. When you take down the first of the in-line drops it skips 2x
and automatically awards 3x.
Sequence of lights is off as well and will not award 5,000/5 advance.
Any help appreciated.
Also not very tech minded or experienced but if it is something relatively easy I might give it a go.
Thanks.

#968 5 years ago
Quoted from rollitover:

My Viking is acting up. When you take down the first of the in-line drops it skips 2x
and automatically awards 3x.
Sequence of lights is off as well and will not award 5,000/5 advance.
Any help appreciated.
Also not very tech minded or experienced but if it is something relatively easy I might give it a go.
Thanks.

Put all drops up, and then remove the ball from the game.

Now, go in to the switch test mode.

Look on the display and confirm that "0" is displayed.

If not, diagnose whatever # is displayed as a "closed" switch that should not be closed.
You will need the manual to identify the SW. # so you know what switch(es) to diagnose.

Post results here and we can help you with the next steps.

#969 5 years ago

If any of you guys can help shed some light on the reset issue I've been having with my Harlem Globetrotters please check out the thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/harlem-globetrotters-rebooting-on-random-coil-activations

I've replaced the rectifier, tried alltek solenoid and MPU boards, lots of connectors, and I'm at a loss as to what to try next. Getting to the "take it out front and set it on fire" point of frustration.

#970 5 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

If any of you guys can help shed some light on the reset issue I've been having with my Harlem Globetrotters please check out the thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/harlem-globetrotters-rebooting-on-random-coil-activations
I've replaced the rectifier, tried alltek solenoid and MPU boards, lots of connectors, and I'm at a loss as to what to try next. Getting to the "take it out front and set it on fire" point of frustration.

I replied in your other thread... Had the exact same thing on my Harlem a couple years ago.

#971 5 years ago

Ali is back up and running, thanks so much barakandl and everyone for the help.

IMG_6372 (resized).JPGIMG_6372 (resized).JPG

#972 5 years ago
Quoted from snyper2099:

Put all drops up, and then remove the ball from the game.
Now, go in to the switch test mode.
Look on the display and confirm that "0" is displayed.
If not, diagnose whatever # is displayed as a "closed" switch that should not be closed.
You will need the manual to identify the SW. # so you know what switch(es) to diagnose.
Post results here and we can help you with the next steps.

Thanks for the info snyper2099.
Might have a look at it tonight.
All depends how late I have to work.
Will keep you posted.

#973 5 years ago

Yep, followed your directions
snyper2099 and
led me straight to the switch and remedy!
Nice to learn somethin' new.
Thank you sir!

#974 5 years ago

Can any MPU gurus out there confirm something for me? I'm working on a -17 and having trouble getting it to boot. Should pins 15 and 16 have continuity on U1-U6? Every socket has continuity between 15-16. This normal for a -17?

Thanks

#975 5 years ago
Quoted from Chisel:

Can any MPU gurus out there confirm something for me? I'm working on a -17 and having trouble getting it to boot. Should pins 15 and 16 have continuity on U1-U6? Every socket has continuity between 15-16. This normal for a -17?
Thanks

no. all data pins should be isolated always everywhere on the MPU. You have a short somewhere. Double check your previous rework everywhere D5 and D6 butt up next to each other.

#976 5 years ago

My Stars is missing the apron. I have been trying to find one for sale. Are they possible to get?

#977 5 years ago

Im wondering if anyone could lend me some knowledge on some issues im having with my FG after putting it back together.
Game boots and plays but only a few solenoids are working(flippers, drop resets, and saucer eject down) and the game will reset if the left pop bumper is activated. I dont know if its related at all but the BG controlled lamps are inop as well.
I have ~44v at all coils, switch test no stuck switches and all fuses are good. If I jump the transistors to gnd on the driver board, coils @ Q1-Q6 will fire and the relay for Q15 activates as well but nothing else.
The game has been apart for over a year now while i worked on the cab and a pf swap. I realized im not getting to the pf swap anytime soon but I really want to play this game again.
Any help is greatly appreciated!

#978 5 years ago

Jus picked up a Kings of Steel. Game boots, Leds are right in cpu, everything works in test....cannot get it to start a game? It worked at the prior owners home. What am I missing?

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg

#979 5 years ago

Can you get into diag/audit mode? If so, raise the drop targets, take the ball out and put the game in switch test to check the start button. There should be a card in the head of the game with switch numbers if the manual is not handy.

If the switches are not working check the bottom right connector on the MPU. Make sure the coin door plug didn't get unplugged. Check to make sure no switches are leaning against the grounded coin door.

#980 5 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

no. all data pins should be isolated always everywhere on the MPU. You have a short somewhere. Double check your previous rework everywhere D5 and D6 butt up next to each other.

Strapped for 2732s, removed U1-U6 sockets, put in new U2 and U6. Followed traces down to U11 so I replaced U11 too and she's booting fine now. Never saw the actual issue but removing those sockets and cleaning did the trick.

Thanks

#981 5 years ago
Quoted from Pinphila:

Jus picked up a Kings of Steel. Game boots, Leds are right in cpu, everything works in test....cannot get it to start a game? It worked at the prior owners home. What am I missing?

Do you have the balls in the game? My Elektra is the same way......

#982 5 years ago
Quoted from metalkatt:

Do you have the balls in the game? My Elektra is the same way......

KoS has no start button ball check like elektra, so it is probably a start or credit switch issue.

#983 5 years ago
Quoted from JohnBillerman:

I have a Bally Black Jack and the flippers stopped working after a new power rectifier board was installed, but everything else seems fine.
Test points measure within expected values on all boards. I get 7 flashes and the relay clicks on the fifth flash.
The relay will pull in [Edit: toggle] if I ground the tab of Q15, UNLESS I HAVE STARTED A GAME: then it will not.
The game has previously treated alkalinity damage on the MPU and a new power rectifier board.
I'm pretty sure it's a connector issue and from what I have read I know the recommendation is to do new connectors and sockets, but I'm not comfortable with that yet and I want to understand this specific problem first.
Among the things I've checked:
• Ground tab on Q15: relay pulls in (if not in game)
• 45vdc at each flipper coil lug, 45vdc at SDB J1-8 and J1-9
• NO 45VDC at flipper switches (?) [Edit: I believe this is correct - flippers switches provide the continuity to ground]
• Ground flipper coil lug: flipper coil does fire
• Continuity from flipper button switches to boards:
o Continuity from (orange) flipper return to PRB J2-9 ...shouldn't I be able to read 43v here? [Edit: Wasn't reading ground here either.]
o Continuity from (red) flipper power to SDB J2-1
o Continuity from (blue) flipper power to SDB J2-2
• Continuity on EOS switches
• Reflowed header pins on SDB and MPU
• Test point voltages as expected on all three boards
• Did recommended ground modifications
Where should I be focusing to get the flippers working?
I keep coming back to PRB J2-9. I guess I don’t understand what I should read on it as the “flipper return”. As I understand it, the return goes back to the transformer to complete the circuit. In a properly working machine, would that read 45VDC when a flipper is engaged? What about when the flipper is not engaged?

Ok, I believe I have figured out this problem and am posting this for future reference for someone who may have the same issue with their Bally flippers being dead.

I discovered that unplugging J4 on the SDB would toggle the relay. I had incorrectly assumed that the relay was only pulsed during boot up, but apparently it remains engaged. I was expecting it to engage when a game was started. (I don't know if this is expected behavior or not.) Realizing that the relay was engaged pointed me towards the recently-replaced rectifier board, and specifically to J2-9, the flipper return. Grounding this pin enabled the flippers to work.

I'll look at the E holes and re-flow. (And I'm going to look up when a circuit path would be designated as a "return" and when it would be designated as ground - I still don't understand that.)

#984 5 years ago
Quoted from Spitfiren8:

Im wondering if anyone could lend me some knowledge on some issues im having with my FG after putting it back together.
Game boots and plays but only a few solenoids are working(flippers, drop resets, and saucer eject down) and the game will reset if the left pop bumper is activated. I dont know if its related at all but the BG controlled lamps are inop as well.

I was able to track down weird bizarre problems by pulling all the connectors off the boards except the power ones and seeing if the board would boot up. Once it booted up (and nothing worked) I could plug them in one at a time and see if the relevant self-test came up. In my case I had just a couple of working solenoids and lights but it turned out that most of the connectors were bad and had to be replaced. Try wiggling the connectors and see if any GI lights flicker, that should tell you if the connectors are bad.

I hope that helps!

#985 5 years ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Brilliant! I wish I saw this before I soldered about 40 sockets.

So for leds all you need to do is add a 470 ohm resistor across the leads of each socket where an LED will be installed? Is that the same for both the Bally and early Stern?

If so that is a nice easy to install upgrade.

#986 5 years ago

Put some quarters in it!

#987 5 years ago

I am fixing a -35 MPU for someone and at one point the dip sockets had been replaced. Unfortunately the job wasn't well done and it looks like some traces are damaged. I have the schematics and am going over each one but wanted to see if anyone has made a continuity chart for each of the DIP sockets or at least the PIA chips. Just thought it may save some time checking the board.

Robert

#988 5 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

So for leds all you need to do is add a 470 ohm resistor across the leads of each socket where an LED will be installed? Is that the same for both the Bally and early Stern?
If so that is a nice easy to install upgrade.

I believe it’ll work for both Bally and Stern but can’t say from experience. I used 470ohm 1/4 watt resistors Incase you want to try it out.

#989 5 years ago

Today I bought my first pinball machine. I think I'm in the right place

Everything seems to be working other than a few light bulbs that need to be replaced, but I'm sure I'll be reading through here for advice pretty soon.

20180526_151417 (resized).jpg20180526_151417 (resized).jpg

#990 5 years ago

Welcome to the club!

You know pinball machines reproduce asexually, right? Hope you've made room for the next one already.

#991 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Welcome to the club!
You know pinball machines reproduce asexually, right? Hope you've made room for the next one already.

Space is definitely not the issue. My bank account and not wanting my better half to pack her things and leave are the issues.

#992 5 years ago

Good luck my friend these things get crazy. I'm having a crazy love affair with late 70's Ballys right now, and at least it's not another woman or anything thing bad. My wife doesn't like to admit it but she is loving some Ballys as well she just wants us to have something in savings or I would have more. Stupid responsibilities.

#993 5 years ago

I apologize in advance if these questions aren't in the right place, or if I just need to dig around on pinside more to find the answers, but I am a complete noob to pinball. I've had my Lost World for a few days now, and I have a few questions:

1. Any recommendations on a good site to order replacement light bulbs? I need to replace a handful of burned out ones.

2. Any good recommendations for cleaning a dirty playfield? It seems like there are a lot of differences depending on the age of the machine.

3. The light inside the left slingshot goes out every time the flipper is pressed. Is this just a loose connection or something on the board?

4. Several of the lights in the playfield (extra ball, in lane bonus indicator) only work occasionally. Any idea what might cause those issues?

I appreciate any responses and I'll continue to look around Pinside for answers. I'm not looking to flip this game, I'd just like to know what sorts of things you'd do after buying a game to get it looking and playing well. Thanks.

#994 5 years ago

Comet Pinball for bulbs

Titan Pinball for rings

Pinballlife, Action Pinball, or Marco for everything else.

This thread is a great resource
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guides-a-pinside-compendium-updated-72015

#995 5 years ago
Quoted from Chuckles37:

I apologize in advance if these questions aren't in the right place, or if I just need to dig around on pinside more to find the answers, but I am a complete noob to pinball. I've had my Lost World for a few days now, and I have a few questions:
1. Any recommendations on a good site to order replacement light bulbs? I need to replace a handful of burned out ones.
2. Any good recommendations for cleaning a dirty playfield? It seems like there are a lot of differences depending on the age of the machine.
3. The light inside the left slingshot goes out every time the flipper is pressed. Is this just a loose connection or something on the board?
4. Several of the lights in the playfield (extra ball, in lane bonus indicator) only work occasionally. Any idea what might cause those issues?
I appreciate any responses and I'll continue to look around Pinside for answers. I'm not looking to flip this game, I'd just like to know what sorts of things you'd do after buying a game to get it looking and playing well. Thanks.

No need to apologize! We all started not knowing much.

1. If you are just wanting incandescents I bet someone local or on pinside would send you some for just the cost of shipping. A lot of people on here LED games and have extra laying around. Like jgaltr56 stated, if you want LEDs I would go with comet. They are the best imo.

2. I usually give my dirty playfields a light spray with windex or rubbing alcohol to get majority of the dirt off, then novus2, then finally a few coasts of wax. A lot of people would cringe at the thought of using something with a lot of water in it like windex, but thats just what I use. Ball swirls or dirt thats really stubborn can be removed with magic eraser and some rubbing alcohol (90%), but I wouldn't try that until you get comfortable with cleaning the game. It can easily remove paint/artwork if youre not careful especially with older games.

3. I would assume its the same problem as #4 and the vibration from the flippers are causing this.

4. These ballys are notorious for having lamp socket problems. If you want to eliminate the problem you'll need to replace the lamp sockets.

#996 5 years ago
Quoted from Jgaltr56:

Comet Pinball for bulbs
Titan Pinball for rings
Pinballlife, Action Pinball, or Marco for everything else.
This thread is a great resource
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guides-a-pinside-compendium-updated-72015

Thanks. I've bookmarked that thread.

#997 5 years ago
Quoted from jdoz2:

No need to apologize! We all started not knowing much.
1. If you are just wanting incandescents I bet someone local or on pinside would send you some for just the cost of shipping. A lot of people on here LED games and have extra laying around. Like jgaltr56 stated, if you want LEDs I would go with comet. They are the best imo.
2. I usually give my dirty playfields a light spray with windex or rubbing alcohol to get majority of the dirt off, then novus2, then finally a few coasts of wax. A lot of people would cringe at the thought of using something with a lot of water in it like windex, but thats just what I use. Ball swirls or dirt thats really stubborn can be removed with magic eraser and some rubbing alcohol (90%), but I wouldn't try that until you get comfortable with cleaning the game. It can easily remove paint/artwork if youre not careful especially with older games.
3. I would assume its the same problem as #4 and the vibration from the flippers are causing this.
4. These ballys are notorious for having lamp socket problems. If you want to eliminate the problem you'll need to replace the lamp sockets.

I am just looking for incandescents at this point. I could probably check with the guy who sold the game, as he also repairs them, I was just hoping to order a box with a dozen or two to have on hand.

Is lamp socket replacement a pretty simple process? Or is it something that should be left to a professional?

#998 5 years ago
Quoted from Chuckles37:

I am just looking for incandescents at this point. I could probably check with the guy who sold the game, as he also repairs them, I was just hoping to order a box with a dozen or two to have on hand.
Is lamp socket replacement a pretty simple process? Or is it something that should be left to a professional?

Lamp socket replacement is a breeze. Can you solder? If so, desolder the old socket, clip the wire and re-strip it, then screw it back on and resolder everything.

Before that though, i would try twisting the socket around since dust and corrosion can impede good electrical contact. If flaky, then try soldering the wire directly to the nipple of the socket.

#999 5 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Lamp socket replacement is a breeze. Can you solder? If so, desolder the old socket, clip the wire and re-strip it, then screw it back on and resolder everything.
Before that though, i would try twisting the socket around since dust and corrosion can impede good electrical contact. If flaky, then try soldering the wire directly to the nipple of the socket.

I can solder a bit, but it's not pretty. That will have to be a weekend project.

#1000 5 years ago
Quoted from Chuckles37:

I can solder a bit, but it's not pretty. That will have to be a weekend project.

You need a good soldering iron, temp controlled preferably. Sockets and lugs are much more forgiving than PBCs. As long as it gets hot enough, you should be fine. It should only take about 5 seconds of heat before the tab is hot enough to melt and take solder. If it takes longer, your iron might not be hot enough.

Here's a good read:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terrybs-soldering-guide-part-1

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 79.99
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
PinGraffix Pinside Shop
Armor and blades
2,000
$ 44.00
Boards
PinballReplacementParts
Boards
There are 3,868 posts in this topic. You are on page 20 of 78.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-as-2518-club/page/20 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.