Anyone know where one can source just the outlet bracket? Anyone have one from a machine they have parted out, please PM me.
I need one for my SBM I restored and have misplaced it.

conv outlet (resized).png

Wow! What an amazing collection
Voltan
Can I come and play?

Glad to finally be in the club with a Harlem Globetrotters.

I'm trying to fix a friend's Evel Knievel machine...
The MPU seems to boot correctly (2 flashes, one second, and then 5 others...) but nothing after that.
Nothing from the displays or the solenoids...

He's got a Skateball right next to it that's working properly.

Are the boards from 2518-17 and 2518-35 compatible? Can I try the Skateball ones on the EK to exclude things??

I think you might be incorrectly counting the LED flashes.

Count the flashes on the Skateball next to it and you might notice an extra flash. Both MPU boards should flash the same number of times.

The moment you switch on the game, the LED should flicker, then flash one time, then one second delay then 6 flashes. If you're seeing 5 flashes instead of 6 flashes after the one second delay the problem is most likely the F4 5amp fuse on the rectifier board is blown.

The -17 and -35 MPU boards are not directly interchangeable without making modifications.

Well I'm not really sure anymore on how to count these flashes...

What do you think?

I'm going to say that looks like 5 flashes to me. Great looking playfield.

ok, so definitely the F5 fuse on the rectifier board, then...

He just sent me a picture of it...
30849941_10155623181117831_344903586_o (resized).jpg
Definitely where I'll be looking at when I go to his place...

That F4 fuse looks blown. It's for solenoid power and is required by the MPU board for the last LED flash.

Absolutely. Someone has improvised and made a discrete rectifier with those 4 diodes but they don't look like they're high enough current type diodes.

Yup!
Thanks a lot Quench and Buzz !
I'll rectify that rectifier board first thing !

Also, I feel like there's a missing rectifier on the left, right?
I should probably put one there, shouldn't I?

If it’s what I think you’re looking at and asking, the rectumfiers are in the backside of the board so they are up against the metal heat sink to dissipate heat... which is why they don’t use discretes on the top side like the repair job was.

Ooooookay !
I just realized I didn't know the English words for "diodes" and "pont de diodes"

So here's the back side of it...
Isn't that weird that there's rectifiers on both sides??
30768865_10155622685732831_1202859571_o (resized).jpg

I think that is pretty common for quick repairs. From your picture fuse 1 looks physically bigger than the rest but it just may be the angle of the picture.

If you go up a page or two in this thread you'll see a picture of a rectifier board I just rebuilt. It had the same bridge go bad as the one on your board that was replaced on the top. I replaced all three and added heat sinks. That small metal heat sink spacer under the board was removed.

Robert

You're definitely going to want to rebuild & bulletproof that thing via vid's guide.

It does look bigger indeed. I'll check that when in front of it.

That's some great work you did on that board !
I won't be as good as that.

Or just get a new one for $55 from barakandl
https://nvram.weebly.com/new-pcbs.html

Ok ! I'm starting to understand (silly of me) !
I thought it was strange as I couldn't see BR2 on image 1.

So there's supposed to be 3. And according to the schematics, they're all of the same value, right?
VJ248 ???

Oh my oh my !
That dear Barakandl ! I love this guy !!!

Didn't know he did that though !
I'll suggest that to my friend !
That's a great idea for him to have a go on soldering !

Anyone can help me with the values of this bridge rectifier, please?
The documentation says VJ248 VARO ... ?????? Can't figure out what this is...

+1

It is an obsolete part that is pretty hard to find by and those really seem to be under rated. At first I too thought about finding one and replacing it. If you got that route you want the exact same one and be careful mounting since if they aren't all at the same height and you don't have fresh heat sink compound then they can go again. That is one of the reasons many people just install the heavy duty bridges rated for 35a on the top of the board instead. I'd definitely also recommend following Vids suggestions to bullet proof the board which also adds 4 jumpers. Good stuff. If you can solder or get someone to help do solders well it isn't hard to rebuild that board and doesn't cost a lot to do it.

I formed the leads on the center bridge first to be centered then did the ones on the sides. I temporarily bolted them all together on a flat piece of material to hold the level while soldering. Then removed it to put on the heat sinks.

Robert

Oh !
So that's the reason for this homemade fixing !
Then I might go for Barakandl's thing !
Hope he ships to the old continent !

Here here!! He also put heat sinks with fins on the front I believe... much easier to deal with and more air flow to cool the diode bridges.

Just saying as a new member of this club, finally I got some style in my collection, the help here is great. Hoping I won't need it, but glad it's here. You are awesome for sure.

What the hell kind of fuse is there in F1?

Just picked up a Spy Hunter. This thread may become very useful. Thank you in advance.

We're working on it.
Thanks again to everyone who helped !

Ceramic... around the fuse wire. Helps dissipate the heat.

Welcome to the club! I thought I read that you got a Paragon? Anyway, Quench has helped me (a ton) on how to troubleshoot a lamp driver board and in the process, we found that I needed a new rectifier board also. I needed to use that knowledge the other day when a couple of once-working lamps went out on my Flash Gordon. Replaced 2 SCRs and all good! Lots of good people in this thread!

I use these that directly fit in:
KBPC810PBF made by Vishay Semiconductors.
http://export.rsdelivers.com/productlist/search?query=KBPC810
https://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=KBPC810

Be careful of the cheap Chinese units on Ebay/Aliexpress - they are physically bigger and won't fit.

Looks like a much larger diameter fuse....

Definitely... probably some other application like an appliance. I often have a hard time finding fuses at a hardware store instead of an electronics store... there’s so few of them now. If it was able to force fit.. ok. But check the value to be sure it’s correct. When it’s ever replaced you’ll likely need to squeeze the clips together again.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/categories.asp?cat=13
Ed @ GPE has all the fuses you need.

I started working on a Galaxy trying to put it together from parts and after I got everything on the bottom of the playfield done I looked in the bottom of the cabinet and realized the transformer & transformer rectifier board were gone. I have a Stern Magic (donor machine) but according to the manuals both the transformer & transformer rectifier board are different part numbers. Does anyone know if the transformer & transformer rectifier board from a Magic will work in the Galaxy off the top of their head?

It has been a long day so I just don't feel like trying to sort out an answer on my own so I figured a quick post might be the way to go. THANKS!

It should.
Rectifier board A-430 on both games.
I would double check the playfield pin-outs just in case...
But, it should work.
MPU's are different.
Magic -100
Galaxy -200

I replaced the TA-100 rectifier board in my Ali with a NVRAM one, swapped over one wire at a time from the transformer and I think my solder work looks pretty good. It had previously been blowing F4. It's not doing that anymore (yet), but the game isn't booting. I get a solid red light on the MPU. What's the best way for me to test that my work on the rectifier board was good? Just test for continuity at each point going back to the transformer? If I get that, should I trust my problem lies elsewhere? Any help is appreciated, would love to get this up and running again!

~edit - I do have a connector rebuild kit from Marco on the way so I'll be doing that next. I suppose I'll also test for continuity between my new connectors and where they go on the boards.

The parts you linked are 8A bridges. I thought the stock bridges were 10A.

Cool short film. Cheesy, bit good cheese. Wish those games were still around.

Yes, my response was a bit lazy.

The controlled feature lamp bridge is where it might matter since it runs at high current (the other two bridges are lower current circuits). You can swap one of the other VJ248 bridges to the lamp bridge location if it's a concern and use the KBPC810 bridge in the lower current locations.

Keeping the bridges cool helps them survive during heavier loads. I use a good quality thermal paste between the bridges and the aluminum/metal plate, and make sure all three bridges are screwed down (no missing screws as you sometimes find).

Since you have already powered it all up, on the MPU check TP5 for +5vdc. Check TP2 for +12vdc (will read like +16v). TP3 for +21.5v.

On the driver carefully check tp4 for +185v

On the playfied and backbox check for +6vdc on the common bus side of a feature lamp.

General illumination lamps is on coin door, playfield, and backbox.

If something is missing report back or work backwards towards the rectifier board.

Hi All,
I have a few Bally machines now and am having an issue with the plumb bob tilt on my Evel Knievel in that it does not work. The slam tilts work, not sure of the ball tilt as it does not have the smaller ball in it to make it work. all wires appear to be in place and a continuity check has not shown any issues. Looking for suggestions as to what else to look for.

Is there something on the mpu that would cause sound to have a wobbly pitch?

For your tilt check as far up the wires as you can and see if continuity is there when the tilt Bob touches the ring. Could be connectors all the way up at the board.

"For your tilt check as far up the wires as you can and see if continuity is there when the tilt Bob touches the ring. Could be connectors all the way up at the board."

Will do,
Thanks

This is a good place to start. I've worked on several machines where there's no continuity between the tilt bob and the ring and I had to clean them to get it to work.

Check out this post and the following post from when I was troubleshooting my Flash Gordon.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tilt-not-registering#post-4316802

Thanks for this! I will do so. In the meantime I repinned the 8 pin and 10 pin connectors and decided to fire it up. It worked! Game booted successfully, I put a credit on, played a game, put everything back together thinking heck yeah, then turned the game off. Put tools away, and turned it back on when I called my wife downstairs to play with me about 5 minutes later, no boot. No obviously blown fuses (I don't have my multimeter, just moved houses. Going back to old house tomorrow and will test all you recommended). Reseated everything, blah blah blah, still won't boot. Going to continue repinning everything, as to me it now sounds like a connector problem?

Is the Bally/Stern MPU rebuild kit from Big Daddy's Pinball what I'd need for an MPU200?