(Topic ID: 85292)

Bally/Stern AS-2518 Club !

By mof

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 3,868 posts
  • 368 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 days ago by tatman9999
  • Topic is favorited by 287 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

IMG_1013 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1804 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1847 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1849 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1856 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2083 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2088 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2092 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2091 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2093 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2095 (resized).jpeg
pasted_image (resized).png
IMG_2852 (resized).JPG
IMG_2571 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2849 (resized).JPG
pasted_image (resized).png

There are 3,868 posts in this topic. You are on page 18 of 78.
#851 6 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

It's a high-resistance, low-current solenoid. It can stay energized indefinitely.

Similar to other relays that stay on longer like tilt relays and game over relays and coin lockout relays.

#852 6 years ago

Anyone have a 2518-54 rectifier board they'd like to sell or a link for a good price on a new one?

#853 6 years ago
Quoted from mark532011:

Speaking of Globetrotters, I have a question about one. I purchased the replacement MPU board (mine was missing.) When I turn it on after a couple of days, it seems to start up correctly. I get a click from the solenoid board around the 4th flash of the MPU board LED, then I get a second click a couple seconds later when the MPU LED gets to the 6th flash and the MPU LED stays on dimly (normal for the new MPU board)
What is weird is that after a couple of minutes, when power cycling, the first click happens and then everything stops - the MPU LED is solid on with just 4 flashes. I don't get any more flashes or a second click. I'm not sure what is clicking or if that is a symptom or the problem. Does anyone know what to check? I could send the MPU board back for testing but I suspect its somewhere else, something that warms up and stops working, just not sure what to look for. I have replaced C23 on the solenoid board but thats all so far.
Mark

The "clicking" you hear is a relay or two coming on to provide power to other parts of the machine. This is perfectly normal.

The LED flashes have a meaning. For an OEM board, see attached:

MPU Test (resized).jpgMPU Test (resized).jpg

#854 6 years ago

The 4th and 5th MPU flash indicate a test of the PIA ports which control the solenoids, displays, etc. When the PIA is tested the sound board chirps, lamps pulse quickly (wont even notice with incandescent bulbs) and the relay clicks because of the test routine toggling the PIA ports and the CPU reading back to make sure it can control the PIA before entering play mode.

#855 6 years ago

Looks like I may have a sticky relay? After letting it warm up, by physically banging on the relay housing (and thus the whole solenoid board) It seems to fix the problem and it boots up, at least partially. At least the MPU board goes all the way to success and I can run the self-test.

#856 6 years ago
Quoted from mark532011:

Looks like I may have a sticky relay? After letting it warm up, by physically banging on the relay housing (and thus the whole solenoid board) It seems to fix the problem and it boots up, at least partially. At least the MPU board goes all the way to success and I can run the self-test.

Does not seem like it would be related. You can leave driver J4 unplugged and test again. That separates the mpu solenoid signals from the solenoid driver section.

Diag LED locking on at the 4th flash is a pretty good indication that the U10 has failed or one of its ports is shorted to ground or 5v. Unplug driver j4 and unplug everything from the MPU but j4 and see if it still locks up. If it does see if you have another spare board with a PIA on it to try that. You could also rotate U10 and U11 to see if the problem now moves to the fifth flash or locks up the CPU.

#857 6 years ago

Anyone know if new Globetrotter playfield plastics are being made by anyone? Got a cracked one on my table and figured before I went eBay I would see if anyone sold them. Marcos and Pinballlife don't have any that I could find.

#858 6 years ago
Quoted from mark532011:

Anyone know if new Globetrotter playfield plastics are being made by anyone? Got a cracked one on my table and figured before I went eBay I would see if anyone sold them. Marcos and Pinballlife don't have any that I could find.

I have a full set I’ll part with if your interested.

#859 6 years ago

Thanks Tsskinne, I will keep you in mind. Since I only need the one, perhaps I will try and make it myself.

#860 6 years ago
Quoted from Thrillhouse:

Anyone have a 2518-54 rectifier board they'd like to sell or a link for a good price on a new one?

barakandl, are you ever going to offer a -54 rectifier board? Your -18 board is awesome.

The -54 board is fairly straight-forward to rebuild if it isn't burned up.

#861 6 years ago
Quoted from FiatsRUs:

barakandl, are you ever going to offer a -54 rectifier board? Your -18 board is awesome.
The -54 board is fairly straight-forward to rebuild if it isn't burned up.

Agreed that -18 board Andrew makes is awesome and a breeze to put together. I'd be in for a pair 54's if they do get made.

#862 6 years ago

Does anyone happen to have the memory map of the AS-2518-17 MPU board? I haven't seen that in any of the docs. If I'm not mistaken the 2K chip at U6 is the main operating code (same for several machines) and the 2K chip in U2 is the game specific ROM. It would help to know how those end up in the memory map as well as the 6810 RAM, the 5101 RAM, and the PIA chips. I found something mentioned on the PinWiki where U2 may be at $5000-$57FF and U6 at $5800-$5FFF which means one or both probably also show up at $F000-$FFFF range. It also looks like the RAM is at $00-$7F and the 5101 from $200-$2FF. That leaves the addresses for the two 6820/6821 chips as the ones I still need to find.

I have a 1977 Bally #Black Jack that I just got going and there are a few things I'd like to look at in the code. It looks like there is some extra unused space in the game ROM.

Has anyone already disassembled them? I've read that there are patched versions to allow freeplay so someone must have already tweaked some of the code.

#863 6 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

If I'm not mistaken the 2K chip at U6 is the main operating code (same for several machines) and the 2K chip in U2 is the game specific ROM.

Correct.

Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Does anyone happen to have the memory map of the AS-2518-17 MPU board?

$0000-007F 6810 RAM
$0088-008B 6821 PIA U10
$0090-0093 6821 PIA U11
$0200-02FF 5101 RAM (upper 4 bits only! - ROMs expect lower 4 bits to read high)

$1000-17FF U2 ROM
$1800-1FFF U6 ROM

Address lines A15, A14 and A13 are not used on the MPU board itself which means the above memory map gets mirrored all over the place. Suffice to say U6 is mirrored at $F800-FFFF in order for the 6800 CPU to read the system vectors.

Quoted from Robotworkshop:

PinWiki where U2 may be at $5000-$57FF and U6 at $5800-$5FFF

The $5xxx range is related to -35 boards, not -17 boards.

Have you already come up with some alternate rule/feature plans?

#864 6 years ago

I haven't done the -54 rectifier board because the connectors do not usually burn up like the -18 does. I will put it on the short list of projects to do, but will probably be after the projects I am working on now which is WMS rectangular type sound boards. Then WMS Sound +Speech in the square board physical space. Then the WPC89 MPU.

Bally -32 / -50 sound boards will be back in stock on my website later today. Waiting on the DHL man to deliver the blank PCBs and then I will get a bunch assembled today.

I have a new shopping cart system in place too.

#865 6 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Have you already come up with some alternate rule/feature plans?

Thank you for the clarification on the memory layout. I have a 1977 Black Jack machine with the -17 board.

At the moment I only have one change in mind. Presently if the ball lands in the kick out hole you get points for landing in the hole and a lot of points if you beat the dealer. What I would like to see happen is if the dealer wins you should either get no points or you should lose points as those go back to the dealer. I think you should lose as many points as you'd win if beating the dealer. As a stretch maybe play a different tune if the dealer wins. I think that would make a great improvement to game play as you can now lose points is you mess up.

I've done more than my fair share of 6800 programming for the old Heathkit HERO 1 and Jr robots that I hope to apply here.

If anyone else has poked around in the Bally ROM code for those and wants to collaborate please let me know. It looked like there is still empty space in the Blackjack ROM to store a little extra code.

Robert

#866 6 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

What I would like to see happen is if the dealer wins you should either get no points or you should lose points as those go back to the dealer. I think you should lose as many points as you'd win if beating the dealer. As a stretch maybe play a different tune if the dealer wins.

Great ideas..
I can give you pointers of where to start looking. PM me if interested.

#867 6 years ago

Just recently joined this club last month with a Paragon; now i have a Flash Gordon project on the way! I've read that naptha is a good cleaner for these playfields. Am I safe using it? My normal go-to cleaner is simple green first, then to Novus 1/2 if needed.

#868 6 years ago

Question about power in the Globetrotters. I purchased a replacement Rectifier board and everything works except I have no power to the front door (with the start game switch) - the GI lights above the coin slots are not on. I don't see power in the connector for the front door and am trying to trace it back more but I don't understand the schematic.

When I look at the schematic. the 3 lights are on the GI bus via A2J2-1 and A2J2-5. Does that mean I should go to the transformer board (A2), connector J2 and look at pins 1,5? and I should have 5.9vac on them? I think that's what the schematic is saying.

or am I looking at it wrong and I don't understand the reference to something about J1 pins 17,18 in the little door plug table

schem (resized).PNGschem (resized).PNG

schem2 (resized).PNGschem2 (resized).PNG

#869 6 years ago
Quoted from mark532011:

I don't understand the reference to something about J1 pins 17,18 in the little door plug table

Looks like the table is just the wiring for the door plug connector. J1 is that connector which has its own pinout (if you had a spec for that type of connector) and it’s showing which wires go back to the other connectors. Sort of repeats what’s on the other part of the schematic from what I can see.

I think your correct in that you should be checking back to A2J2 pins 1 and 5.

If there’s no continuity someone may have wired the door plug incorrectly or it’s broken.

#870 6 years ago

cool, thanks

#871 6 years ago

My 80's Garagecade

IMG_20180317_124354 (resized).jpgIMG_20180317_124354 (resized).jpg

#872 6 years ago
Quoted from Gritty:

My 80's Garagecade

Looks like an awesome collection!

#873 6 years ago
Quoted from Gritty:

My 80's Garagecade

Nice collection, would love to find a Banzai Run or Medusa around North Carolina!

1 week later
#874 6 years ago

Does anyone happen to know the approximate note of each of the chimes used in the SS Bally games? In particular the 4 chimes used in Black Jack. I'm working on a patch that needs to add a couple new tunes and how the chimes match up with a note would help.

I have more details on the thread about Black Jack:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/black-jack-1977-solid-state-club

Robert

#875 6 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

Does anyone happen to know the approximate note of each of the chimes used in the SS Bally games? In particular the 4 chimes used in Black Jack. I'm working on a patch that needs to add a couple new tunes and how the chimes match up with a note would help.
I have more details on the thread about Black Jack:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/black-jack-1977-solid-state-club
Robert

Could you flick the chime while holding a guitar tuner next to it? That should pick up the note.

#876 6 years ago

If you remove the chime and lay it across two q-tips at the "nodes" and strike the chime with a piece of hard material you should get the chime to resonate long enough to pick up the note.

The "Note Recognizer" app (for Android) is awesome for tuning chimes. Hold your phone's microphone within a few centimeters of the chime and it should work fine.
Here's a link to another thread where we were trying to figure out the notes of some chimes:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/size-so-i-can-make-some-bally-chimes#post-3604203

#877 5 years ago

Hello everyone. I'll chime in.

I have a Meteor, Kings of Steel, Harlem Globetrotters, and just got a Six Million Dollar Man. Great to see a group around these machines!

#878 5 years ago

Welcome aboard Chisel. Nice avatar private Joker!!

#879 5 years ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Could you flick the chime while holding a guitar tuner next to it? That should pick up the note.

I had a friend stop by that has a music background and we found a sequence that sounds good. With that I was able to finish making the changes to the Black Jack code that I wanted. Added a couple new tunes and now if the dealer wins you lose points. Makes the game a lot more interesting!

#880 5 years ago
Quoted from Robotworkshop:

I had a friend stop by that has a music background and we found a sequence that sounds good. With that I was able to finish making the changes to the Black Jack code that I wanted. Added a couple new tunes and now if the dealer wins you lose points. Makes the game a lot more interesting!

that's awesome! Black Jack is on my wish list, interesting to hear about the mods to the code you are making. Good luck with it!

#881 5 years ago

Hello,
New member here as I have finally picked up the Nitro Ground Shaker I have been wanting for a long time! This is my first machine of this era and I have a couple questions: 1. whats the recommended slope for these games. I cannot get it to 6.5 with the current levelers, wondering if i need longer levelers or do these tables not need that much incline? 2. is there a way to disable the attract sound, I didn't see anything in the manual for that?

Thanks,
Jim

#882 5 years ago
Quoted from jim5six:

Hello,
New member here as I have finally picked up the Nitro Ground Shaker I have been wanting for a long time! This is my first machine of this era and I have a couple questions: 1. whats the recommended slope for these games. I cannot get it to 6.5 with the current levelers, wondering if i need longer levelers or do these tables not need that much incline? 2. is there a way to disable the attract sound, I didn't see anything in the manual for that?
Thanks,
Jim

1. Typical slope for this era was 5.5 to 6.0 degrees, but don't take that as gospel. Set it where you like it best. I've used 3" leg levelers and 2x4s to get steeper slope on some of my games.

2. According to the manual, there were two different ROMs for this game. Try turning off dip switch 24 on the MPU to disable background sound. If that doesn't work you'll need to obtain or program the other ROM.

#883 5 years ago

thank you @dothedoo
I didn't see in the manual about the dip switch 24, Thank you!

-Jim

#884 5 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

1. Typical slope for this era was 5.5 to 6.0 degrees, but don't take that as gospel. Set it where you like it best.

I'll second this. I never actually checked my slope until recently, I just put it where it felt good. Recently got an angle app for my phone and checked. They were all nearly spot on 6 degrees. I have however seen in one of my manuals, either Harlem Globetrotters or Six Million Dollar Man, it was set at 3.5 degrees from the factory. I don't know if that is what they recommended or if it was just their default back then.

14
#885 5 years ago

The latest line-up with a few system 7s thrown in....

IMG_8976 (resized).jpgIMG_8976 (resized).jpg

IMG_8977 (resized).jpgIMG_8977 (resized).jpg

IMG_8978 (resized).jpgIMG_8978 (resized).jpg

IMG_8979 (resized).jpgIMG_8979 (resized).jpg

IMG_8980 (resized).jpgIMG_8980 (resized).jpg

IMG_8981 (resized).jpgIMG_8981 (resized).jpg

IMG_8982 (resized).jpgIMG_8982 (resized).jpg

IMG_8983 (resized).jpgIMG_8983 (resized).jpg

IMG_8984 (resized).jpgIMG_8984 (resized).jpg

IMG_8985 (resized).jpgIMG_8985 (resized).jpg

IMG_8986 (resized).jpgIMG_8986 (resized).jpg

IMG_8975 (resized).jpgIMG_8975 (resized).jpg

#886 5 years ago
Quoted from DrJoe:

The latest line-up with a few system 7s thrown in....

I hate to be such a fanboy, but omg, they are stunning. That's amazing.

#887 5 years ago
Quoted from DrJoe:

The latest line-up with a few system 7s thrown in....

Super sweet collection, congrats!

#888 5 years ago
Quoted from DrJoe:

The latest line-up with a few system 7s thrown in....

How do you decide which one to play? I mean, that's a real problem.

#889 5 years ago
Quoted from DrJoe:

The latest line-up with a few system 7s thrown in....

I so want a Paragon...... some day....... great collection!!

#890 5 years ago
Quoted from DrJoe:

The latest line-up with a few system 7s thrown in....

I have to ask... Did you restore these games? What's the story with that Voltan, the cabinet isn't even faded?!? How does that happen?

#891 5 years ago
Quoted from DrJoe:

The latest line-up with a few system 7s thrown in....

Outstanding lineup. My fave era

#892 5 years ago

Such a beautiful collection, so many amazing games!

#893 5 years ago

Where would you guys price a Mystic? What if it was an early production with the swapped cabinet colors?

#894 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Where would you guys price a Mystic? What if it was an early production with the swapped cabinet colors?

Show some pictures

#895 5 years ago

I'm looking to upgrade from one to the other. Don't have many pics of the yellow one, but it looks decent (and has board issues).

20180330_163052 (resized).jpg20180330_163052 (resized).jpg

IMAG0279 (resized).jpgIMAG0279 (resized).jpg

Sorry for the crappy pics. Both mylared playfields, my cab and glass are rough. Yellow glass and cab look nice.

#896 5 years ago

Had an issue crop up out of nowhere with my lost world. The left saucer, right pop bumper and B target switches stopped registering (switches 23, 31, 39). They are all on the same circuit it seems. I traced the wire back to the mpu and have no breaks, confirmed with a MM. All of the molex connectors were replaced in the last year. Any ideas of what to look for?

#897 5 years ago

Check the solder joints on the header pins?

#898 5 years ago
Quoted from FatPanda:

Check the solder joints on the header pins?

Yep, solder joints are good

#899 5 years ago

I had to replace one of the undersized bridge rectifiers for a Black Jack so I when through that whole board and did the upgrades. Added the 4 jumpers, new connectors, new fuse clips on the 20 amp fuse, and the large 35A bridges with heat sinks on the top of the board. The original 3 screws worked out perfect for mounting the heat sinks. Just had to add a #6 flat washer, internal tooth lock washer, and a 6-32 on each one. Before soldering I made sure they were all lined up. Turned out pretty well and after repinning the connectors the game is up and running well.

The custom ROM where the player loses points when the dealer wins is working well but there is one more revision to test that looks at the DIP switch to see if it should be used since it can act more normal without swapping ROM's in case someone wants to go back.

bally_PS (resized).jpgbally_PS (resized).jpg

bally_PS1 (resized).jpgbally_PS1 (resized).jpg

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
Creekside Hideaway, LLC
Other
9,000
Machine - For Sale
East Rochester, NY
From: $ 10.00
Playfield - Protection
UpKick Pinball
Protection
There are 3,868 posts in this topic. You are on page 18 of 78.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-as-2518-club/page/18?hl=jason43 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.