Bally/Stern AS-2518 Club !


By mof

3 years ago


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  • 834 posts
  • 182 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 days ago by dasvis
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There are 834 posts in topic. You are on page 17 of 17.
#801 28 days ago

Maybe he could make said piggyback board that would connect to J5 with an extra connector on it so you could still connect Stern sound board cables.

#802 28 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

I like it! I only wish you had a spot to add another 6821 PIA and piggyback
breadboard experiment area.
( need more dipswitch options ) (need a few more switch strobe lines) Great job.

With the amount of available ROM/NVRAM space now, just implement "software settings" instead of requiring more dip-switches.
How many total playfield switches do you need? Can you get away with using more unused continuous solenoid data lines as switch strobe lines ala Fathom/Medusa - etc? The coin lockout coil data line could also be re-purposed as another switch strobe line.

#803 27 days ago

I just noticed on my Fathom the right flipper had no dead bounce when letting ball hit it and pass to left flipper. I have all new flipper parts and found play in the flipper crank. No biggie as I had a new one on hand but noticed that one as well had some play in it to? I had just gone through the same scenario on my Frontier a few weeks ago. After trying to re crimp part with a hammer which didn’t work I ended up using a little super glue placed on round donut part where it attaches to the crank and clamped it. I then played an hour with no issues but hoping it holds up. Anyone else noticing this part not crimped enough from factory? Any other ideas how to fix besides welding !

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#804 26 days ago
Quoted from bonzo442:

Anyone else noticing this part not crimped enough from factory

The OEM part had two flat walls on the inside Dia. that help keep the set screw head from turning.

#805 26 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

The OEM part had two flat walls on the inside Dia. that help keep the set screw head from turning.

Hmm...I guess it’s just not made the same way anymore? I would say 1 out of 3 you buy have this play and it’s something noticeable

#806 24 days ago

Silly question..
On the -23 Lamp Board, can someone explain to me what R70 is used for? It *appears* to only feed the test point?

#807 24 days ago
Quoted from Coyote:

On the -23 Lamp Board, can someone explain to me what R70 is used for? It *appears* to only feed the test point?

Test point TP3 that's connected to pull-up resistor R70 on the Lamp Driver Board is there for manually testing SCRs. Connecting a wire from TP3 to the gate lead of any SCR should activate the respective lamp.
It's mentioned as part of the Lamp Board diagnostic procedure in the Bally Repair Procedures manual FO-560

There are also pull-up resistors connecting to test points only on the SDB that are used for similar purposes.

#808 24 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

Test point TP3 that's connected to pull-up resistor R70 on the Lamp Driver Board is there for manually testing SCRs. Connecting a wire from TP3 to the gate lead of any SCR should activate the respective lamp.
It's mentioned as part of the Lamp Board diagnostic procedure in the Bally Repair Procedures manual FO-560
There are also pull-up resistors connecting to test points only on the SDB that are used for similar purposes.

Ah! Very cool. Thanks!

#809 23 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

Test point TP3 that's connected to pull-up resistor R70 on the Lamp Driver Board is there for manually testing SCRs. Connecting a wire from TP3 to the gate lead of any SCR should activate the respective lamp.
It's mentioned as part of the Lamp Board diagnostic procedure in the Bally Repair Procedures manual FO-560
There are also pull-up resistors connecting to test points only on the SDB that are used for similar purposes.

Interesting. You learn something every day........ I'm going to use that one today. Have a lamp issue on my Seawitch that is driving me nuts

#810 22 days ago

I have a couple boards for sale from my Elektra pinball if anyone is interested. They are listed only on Pinside at this time.

You can PM if interested.

#811 21 days ago

Completing the restoration of my Flash Gordon, its been awhile since I have had to trouble shoot a pin and I am having this issue with FG.

Pin boots up with correct number of flashes 7, target reset, Playfield and displays light as expected.
Doesn't start a game when set on free play, alltek MPU game selection switch left most digit set to one.
Fuse under PF was checked and is good.

What else would prevent a game from starting?

#812 21 days ago

Does the game start when you manually add a credit? If yes there's an additional dip switch (#30?) In the settings that needs to be turned off for free play to work if I remember correctly.

#813 21 days ago
Quoted from Thrillhouse:

Does the game start when you manually add a credit? If yes there's an additional dip switch (#30?) In the settings that needs to be turned off for free play to work if I remember correctly.

Forgot about that dip sw #28 turns off credit display.

Now have to solve DT switches and GI issue.

GI issue, power board J1 heating up after being on for a few minutes

#814 16 days ago

I am having a problem with my Harlem Globetrotters that I am trying to bring back to life. I just put a new rectifier board into it and am getting nothing at all when I power it up. I think its possible I did something wrong but before I went down that road I thought I would check some voltages. The test points on the board show zero so I started from the wall.

At the wall I show about 120v AC ground to side. Coming in from the wall, I checked at FL1 (https://ia600809.us.archive.org/34/items/arcademanual_Harlem_Globetrotters_OPS/Harlem_Globetrotters_OPS.pdf page 40) and show 61v AC from ground to side. I am assuming that is normal as FL1 is converting to DC and the capacitors would cut into the AC on the source side??? IMG_2736 (resized).JPGIMG_2735 (resized).JPG

Then I checked the Service Outlet which is the next thing down the line. I am showing nothing on it in DC and a couple of volts in AC. IMG_2738 (resized).JPG

Is it possible my FL1 is not working or am I just not checking things right?

#815 16 days ago

Take a look at the wiring at the bottom of your filter

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#816 15 days ago

May need to replace the MOV?

#817 15 days ago

First and foremost check for continuity form plug too power supply input.

#818 14 days ago

thanks guys - its obvious I have something wrong, just not sure what its supposed to look like. I am pretty confident it is wired as spec'ed, hard to see the ribbing down in the box to see if hot and neutral are swapped - but I will double-check tonight. The way I am reading the schematic I should see 115v AC on the service outlet as that is literally the next thing down the line from the filter. Capture (resized).JPG

And that will be powered no matter what the main power switch is set to, is that right?

#819 14 days ago

Yes, that's right.

#820 14 days ago

I posted the pic b/c I do not see your service outlet GND wire screwed into the ground braid and filter.

#821 14 days ago

So....progress. The problem is compounded by my lack of ability to use a multi-meter. When I plugged a lamp into the service outlet it worked just fine. So power is successfully getting there. The next piece down the line is the power switch. Theoretically I should have power on both front sides (black/white wires) and no power on the back sides (blue/yellow wires) until its turned on. My initial test with the multimeter shows that I am getting 60v AC at all 4 connections no matter if the switch is on or off...IMG_2744 (resized).JPG

sigh, I no longer trust my ability with the multi-meter so I cannot tell if the switch is shorted on or not. Even if it is, then that still means I should have power on to the next stage down the line.

Going past that, reading page 40 and 43 of the schematic.

Output from the switch is the blue (30) and yellow (20) wires, running to A2J2-6 and A2J2-7. Page 43 shows A2J2-6,7 as coming in to the transformer but its tough to know where they go since it all goes to one line.

#822 14 days ago

Hard to tell from the photo how you have your DMM set up. However if you are seeing 60 volts you may be set to DC volts instead of AC volts. Because the signal is oscillating you will only see about half of the amplitude of an AC signal on a DC meter setting. Also check that the probes are in the correct holes on the DMM. There is usually 3 ... one common but the two other ones are for different functions. Both the switch and the leads need to be correctly set up for AC.

Also "feel" for the ribbing in the edges of wires. One outside edge should feel smooth and round, and the other outside edge will have a fine rib along it. I think they designed if for blind electricians

#823 9 days ago

If I had to pull a few chips and reseat to have the game boot after having fine that less than a few months ago when I got the game, what should I do to make it more reliable?

#824 9 days ago
Quoted from desertT1:

If I had to pull a few chips and reseat to have the game boot after having fine that less than a few months ago when I got the game, what should I do to make it more reliable?

Put new IC sockets in

#825 9 days ago
Quoted from dasvis:

Put new IC sockets in

Are the existing sockets not grabbing the IC legs well enough, or do they tend to have solder issues. Doesn’t matter either way, just curious.

#826 9 days ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Are the existing sockets not grabbing the IC legs well enough, or do they tend to have solder issues. Doesn’t matter either way, just curious.

Usually corrosion, and depending on the socket, bad tension in the pin holes.

#827 8 days ago

Oh wise ones to the Bally "OS" can I get your thoughts on the issue that "popped" up last night during initial fire up of my SBM post restore:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/polishing-up-a-silverball-mania/page/6#post-4167355

#828 7 days ago

There is no test like putting a game on location. Last night at my tournament Lost World was doing two things that were strange. The right pop bumper was triggering at random near the end of the night. The spoon/switch looked fine, but it was hard to get a good look. Also, players were getting tilts when the ball popped out of the right saucer if they flipped at the same time. I was able to duplicate this, but can't say for sure if it was an individual flipper doing it as I didn't have a ton of time testing.

Also, on two of the three pop switches, there were capacitors with one lead clipped. The third one didn't have one that I noticed. Was this intentional?

#829 6 days ago

There's a tilt switch on the bottom of the playfield that may be set a little to conservatively. Try opening it up and see if your tilts go away, vibration from the coils firing may be causing the issue. Most switches will have the caps on them that have long failed and cause funny behavior which is why they are clipped or removed. They are pretty cheap, I would replace those and the spoons on the pops at the same time. The game will work just fine with the caps removed/clipped though.

#830 6 days ago
Quoted from Thrillhouse:

There's a tilt switch on the bottom of the playfield that may be set a little to conservatively. Try opening it up and see if your tilts go away, vibration from the coils firing may be causing the issue. Most switches will have the caps on them that have long failed and cause funny behavior which is why they are clipped or removed. They are pretty cheap, I would replace those and the spoons on the pops at the same time. The game will work just fine with the caps removed/clipped though.

Thanks, I will check those things.

#831 6 days ago

With the caps clipped, you will see a marked deterioration in the sensitivity of the thumper bumpers. Those caps were installed at the factory on later games, and there was a service bulletin put out to add them to the early games. It really does make a big difference (at least to me). To the point I add them to the slingshots, and star rollovers too.

I've also experienced the random firing of thumper bumpers you described. I've done most of the "usual" tricks and they still sometimes do it. I'm all ears to what the experts out there have seen as the cause of the random firings.

As for the random tilt issue, I had a similar issue with a Night Rider (SS). It would tilt for no obvious reason except the game was in play when it tilted. Then I was able to pinpoint it would tilt when the ball landed in the saucer with the 5k amount lit and the spinner was still spinning. After looking at the switch strobes / returns used for the saucer I discovered the diode for one of the spinner switches was in backwards. It took a while to figure out, but hasn't done it once since I fixed the diode. I've also see GI voltage getting into the switch matrix cause some random scoring and tilts. Hope this helps.

#832 6 days ago

That's interesting about the caps on the bumpers, as mine are clipped as well. Do you recall the value of the caps?

#834 6 days ago
Quoted from Thrillhouse:

0.047 for the caps https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CCD-0.047uF-50V

I would just replace ALL of the switch caps. Save yourself a lot of wasted time later on.... wish I would have.

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