(Topic ID: 85292)

Bally/Stern AS-2518 Club !


By mof

4 years ago



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There are 1451 posts in this topic. You are on page 16 of 30.
#752 1 year ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Yes, just verify jumpers are correct for the S&S ROMs.

Where do I find the jumper information?

#753 1 year ago
Quoted from mark532011:

are these 1/4w, 1/2w, 1w, etc.?

Bally uses 1/4 watts. Other wattages are listed if not 1/4 watts.

#755 1 year ago

thanks...what a great resource!

#756 1 year ago

Hey guys -
Anyone know *how many* games use the Aux Lamp driver?

#757 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Hey guys -
Anyone know *how many* games use the Aux Lamp driver?

Which one, there were 2 different version

#758 1 year ago
Quoted from Tallon:

Which one, there were 2 different version

Oh, well... Huh. I don't know. I guess I should look at the differences, first now, to see which one I'm looking at. (I'm *looking* at schematics for the one that's in Mr. & Mrs. Pacman.) If the two are electrically compatible, then it doesn't really matter. if they're NOT, I need to see why not.

#759 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Oh, well... Huh. I don't know. I guess I should look at the differences, first now, to see which one I'm looking at. (I'm *looking* at schematics for the one that's in Mr. & Mrs. Pacman.) If the two are electrically compatible, then it doesn't really matter. if they're NOT, I need to see why not.

Okay, did some research, and yeah, didn't realize there were two different models. I am meaning the larger one, -52.

#760 1 year ago
Quoted from mark532011:

According to the schematic ( http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1125/Bally_1979_Harlem_Globetrotters_On_Tour_Manual.pdf ) page 29, resistors 7,9,11 are all 100k but it doesn't say the wattage... are these 1/4w, 1/2w, 1w, etc.? How would I find this out

Use 100k 1/2Watt , Mount a few mm's above to board for better cooling . Do all the resistors R1,R3,R5,R7 R9 and R11 .
also 99% of these displays the connector pins are cracked , so use a desoldering tool . remove old solder and then resolder these, or install new connectors ,
these pads tend to lift if too much heat is used, so after you have soldered them all again , check the connections with a meter for continuity

#761 1 year ago

I have 2 Dolly Partons on the way and a NOS playfield. Will be a fun project.

I was wanting to know if there is a way to add some of Dollys songs to the game and still have the factory sounds. has anyone ever tackled something like this?

#762 1 year ago
Quoted from woody76:

I have 2 Dolly Partons on the way and a NOS playfield. Will be a fun project.
I was wanting to know if there is a way to add some of Dollys songs to the game and still have the factory sounds. has anyone ever tackled something like this?

you could simply add a WAV Trigger board, handles WAV sound tracks, sounds etc and allows for 16 trigger switches, eg ball goes in the shooter lane (add a switch if one not there) and starts a song, ball drains and ends the song, ball 2 goes into the shooter lane and next some or randomised song then starts playing.

You can then add other switches for other sounds in the game and those sounds can easily be set to play and end other sounds or they can overlap - very cool little board.

#763 1 year ago
Quoted from Coyote:

I am meaning the larger one, -52.

This table shows all the games made with which boards they used.
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Bally

1 week later
#764 1 year ago

Got a bally Lost World awhile ago and was wondering how you get it set to free play?

#765 1 year ago
Quoted from Glycerin:

Got a bally Lost World awhile ago and was wondering how you get it set to free play?

This is what I use. Works well.

http://www.thirdcoastpinballandgraphics.com/store/p2/Credit_Button%2C_large_plastic.html

#766 1 year ago
Quoted from Glycerin:

Got a bally Lost World awhile ago and was wondering how you get it set to free play?

I stacked another leaf switch to the start button and wired it to the coin switch.
Then adjusted the switches so when the start button is pressed it first adds a credit and then starts the game.

IMG_2331 (resized).JPG

#767 1 year ago
Quoted from Toads:

I stacked another leaf switch to the start button and wired it to the coin switch.
Then adjusted the switches so when the start button is pressed it first adds a credit and then starts the game.

this works fine but can be annoying if there is a coin up sound that plays with the start sound

4 weeks later
#768 1 year ago

What's a Mystic worth these days? I have a shot at one that I believe is a good price but not really sure. Cabinet and back glass look to be in good shape. Original boards working fully but appear to have been modified. There's a few jumper wires soldered on the MPU and the SOLENOID DRIVER BOARD. The Battery on the MPU, someone has taken the time to remove it and have it strapped to the bottom of the head with leads running to it. Play field... is very dirty right now but looks pretty good. Some wear on the in lanes otherwise a cleaning would probably make it look pretty good. Couldn't notice any other issues... the left flipper was weak but upon inspection... the bat is just loose so it's slipping. 2 minute fix.

I'm curious in Canadian price but won't reject an estimate in American funds too... really trying to get an idea about this game. Know nothing about it and not sure I want to pull the trigger but the price seems right.

#769 1 year ago
Quoted from Pauz21:

Mystic worth these days

low end----- high end
$450.00 ----$1200.00

#770 1 year ago

I did something similar with my Lost World, only I cut a piece of plexi to fit in the "insert coin" window for the switch to mount to.

Anyone have an idea why my lost world boots with 40 credits added and the default high score all of a sudden? It just developed this problem out of the blue. Molex connectors are all new. It is kind of nice that it's essentially free play, but I would like to save the high score. Off board mounted batteries are fresh as well.

#771 1 year ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

low end----- high end
$450.00 ----$1200.00

American??? Then I'd have a good deal. Canadian... Not so much.

#772 1 year ago
Quoted from mark532011:

Got a question about one of the digits display board on a Harlem Globetrotters. The board is shown here:

In the center, it looks burned. Here is a closeup:
Do you think that looks bad enough to replace the component? I am guessing all 3 resistors would have to be replaced, would there be anything else? Are all the boards the same? (I can get the values from the other boards)

You really should replace all of the 100k-ohm 1/4w resistors with 100k-ohm 1/2w & then see where you stand.
They were undersized from the factory

http://stevekulpa.net/pinball/bally_disp6r.htm

#773 1 year ago
Quoted from Pauz21:

American??? Then I'd have a good deal. Canadian... Not so much.

Yeah, American. Though 450 seems a little low, unless it's a beater. Then again, I'm biased.

#774 1 year ago

Check your switch settings on MPU relating to the 40 credit thing. I thought the max was 35??

#775 1 year ago
Quoted from pinkid:

Check your switch settings on MPU relating to the 40 credit thing. I thought the max was 35??

If I recall, I think you can set it to 40, although I could be mistaken. I'll check the switches, but I'm not sure the issue is related to that. You can drain the credits playing games, but as soon as you turn it off/on, they reset to 40 and the high score gets wiped out. It's pretty odd.

#776 1 year ago
Quoted from Jason43:

If I recall, I think you can set it to 40, although I could be mistaken. I'll check the switches, but I'm not sure the issue is related to that. You can drain the credits playing games, but as soon as you turn it off/on, they reset to 40 and the high score gets wiped out. It's pretty odd.

Your onboard 5101 RAM should hold this data, assuming your battery is working. Using NVRAM allows you to remove batteries & still retain data.

#777 1 year ago
Quoted from dasvis:

Your onboard 5101 RAM should hold this data, assuming your battery is working. Using NVRAM allows you to remove batteries & still retain data.

I'll take a look at that. Thanks

#778 1 year ago

My guess is there's a disconnect between the battery holder and the MPU. Maybe one of the wires broke.

I had a similar issue with a Radio Shack battery holder that had an on/off switch on it. The switch failed internally and the circuit was always open.

#779 1 year ago
Quoted from dasvis:

Using NVRAM allows you to remove batteries & still retain data.

I have one installed in a Bally Centaur and it is still holding the data. Thumbs up.

#780 1 year ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

I have one installed in a Bally Centaur and it is still holding the data. Thumbs up.

Only way to go, really.

2 weeks later
#781 1 year ago

Looking for factory style plastic standoffs for the AS-2518-18 or -49 rectifier board. Thought this Marco part might be right but someone else says it may not be. Can anyone verify vendor/PN for this part?

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-9658-2

Thanks

2 weeks later
#782 1 year ago

I just got a Night Rider (SS) to do a re-theme on.

But before I start with that, I need to get it actually working.

Can someone give me the dip switch settings that they use?

I've going thru the manual to try to figure out how to set them, but didn't find any settings for a few: 7, 14 & 25-30. Should those just be set to "off"?

What I think are good settings: 1 off, 2 on, 3-6 off, 7 ?, 8 on, 9 off, 10 on, 11-13 off, 14 ?, 15 on, 16-19 off, 20 & 21 on, 22-24 off, 25-30 ?, 31 & 32 on.

If someone can post what they use, I'd' very much appreciate it.

Thanks.

Robert

#783 1 year ago

Well I replaced the power supply in the Night Rider I just bought, and now have GI, but nothing else.

I haven't had an old Bally since I sold my Fathom about 10 years ago...so I'm may need some help getting it up and running.

If anyone wants to chime in now, I wouldn't mind.

Thanks.

Robert

#784 1 year ago

I have determined that one of the Night Rider game chips is missing, took me awhile to figure that out.

While I work out getting chips, I replaced the rectifier board and repinned one of it's connectors. I haven't soldered a board for a long time, I usually take it to Cliffy and have him do it. But it looks like I didn't screw up and all TP voltages look OK.

I want to get the game running before I take it apart mechanically and start a re-theme process. This should be a good winter project.

Robert

#785 1 year ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

This should be a good winter project.

Hope you start a thread on it, re-themes are of high interest for me.

#786 1 year ago

Working on a Viking. After it was moved from a different location, the bottom string of GI is out, but the top is on. Going to work on it tonight, but I am guessing that the rectifier/transformer/fuses are fine and the problem is on the PF since one string is still one correct?

#787 1 year ago
Quoted from Methos:

After it was moved

Why not assume it could be as simple as loose header plug?
Start with the easy stuff.

#788 1 year ago
Quoted from Methos:

Working on a Viking. After it was moved from a different location, the bottom string of GI is out, but the top is on. Going to work on it tonight, but I am guessing that the rectifier/transformer/fuses are fine and the problem is on the PF since one string is still one correct?

There are two GI pins at rectifier J1. p5 and p8. If the two string runs are isolated (i'd imagine they are) then yeah it could be at rectifier board.

I'd visually trace the string on the PF and if it is entirely out then check the rectifier board J1 plug. If half the string works check for a break on the pf wire.

#789 1 year ago
Quoted from barakandl:

There are two GI pins at rectifier J1. p5 and p8. If the two string runs are isolated (i'd imagine they are) then yeah it could be at rectifier board.
I'd visually trace the string on the PF and if it is entirely out then check the rectifier board J1 plug. If half the string works check for a break on the pf wire.

So checked all voltages at Rectifier and they were fine. I then started at the top of the PF and worked down. The problem was in the first pop bumper. The power and return that were soldered to the pop light were on a staple on the PF(who thought of that) and the connection was poor. Pulled them all of, restripped the wires and resolded. All works now. Thanks!

Oh - and just an FYI - never try and reuse old bally light sockets. Just replace them. I learned the hard way.

#790 1 year ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

Hope you start a thread on it, re-themes are of high interest for me

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-night-rider-ss-re-theme#post-4107716

Robert

#Night Rider

#791 1 year ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

(One instance of unobtanium there as well - the ball gates at the top of the playfield are oversized and only came on KISS and I believe Paragon. Exceedingly hard to find.)

If anyone is looking, a set of these KISS and Paragon ball gates have popped up on eBay. Left and right sold separately (of course).

ebay.com link » Kiss 1979 Bally Pinball Machine Playfield Right Top Ball Launch Metal Gate

ebay.com link » Kiss 1979 Bally Pinball Machine Playfield Left Top Ball Launch Metal Gate

As an aside, I was digging through a parts bin at a swap meet in the fall, and sure enough I was able to find a set of these. I wasn't specifically looking for them, but I knew what I was looking at when I picked up the left gate...and with a bit of frantic digging, the right was there, too.

#792 1 year ago

Anyone have a recommendation for a place or fellow Pinsider to have these boards tested and repaired? I have a lamp board, Rectifier board, and solenoid driver board for a Strikes and Spares that I am currently restoring and would like to know if they function. I do not have an MPU and of course cannot find a clean one that actually works. Found six locally yesterday, all were destroyed by leakage.

#793 1 year ago
Quoted from sohchx:

Anyone have a recommendation for a place or fellow Pinsider to have these boards tested and repaired? I have a lamp board, Rectifier board, and solenoid driver board for a Strikes and Spares that I am currently restoring and would like to know if they function. I do not have an MPU and of course cannot find a clean one that actually works. Found six locally yesterday, all were destroyed by leakage.

Rectifier and SDB can be tested in the game without the MPU. Get a new MPU here and ask for the freeplay ROMS
http://nvram.weebly.com/new-pcbs.html

#794 1 year ago
Quoted from sohchx:

Anyone have a recommendation for a place or fellow Pinsider to have these boards tested and repaired? I have a lamp board, Rectifier board, and solenoid driver board for a Strikes and Spares that I am currently restoring and would like to know if they function. I do not have an MPU and of course cannot find a clean one that actually works. Found six locally yesterday, all were destroyed by leakage.

barakandl will fix your boards too.

#795 1 year ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

barakandl will fix your boards too.

Seriously? I thought he quit doing repairs.

#796 1 year ago

I do not fix boards anymore now that I am into making new replacements. I usually point people towards Jerry Clause anymore that want Bally stuff repair. His info is in the link below.

http://www.pinrepair.com/parts.htm

#797 1 year ago
Quoted from barakandl:

I do not fix boards anymore now that I am into making new replacements. I usually point people towards Jerry Clause anymore that want Bally stuff repair. His info is in the link below.
http://www.pinrepair.com/parts.htm

Aw, missed that. Sorry to hear, but makes sense. Thanks for the board fixing you used to do!

#798 1 year ago
Quoted from barakandl:

into making new replacements.

His boards and instructions for the DIY kits are superb.

#799 1 year ago

Some news about the MPUs I make.

Coming soon there will be 8x more ROM space with a 512K EPROM spot that exists at $1000-FFFF. The FM16(W)08 NVRAM has also been opened up to exist at $0100-0FFF. No software exists yet that uses the extra space, so it hasnt been fully tested yet. But things like Oliver's Nine ball and Bullseye 301 are playing out the 512K EPROM spot. Original stock software still runs fine out of the U2 and U6 sockets using a single 2764 or two 2732s.

*** thank you to Dad, Quench, and Seymour Shabow for helping me figure out the address decoding ***

20171216_093943 (resized).jpg

#800 1 year ago

I like it! I only wish you had a spot to add another 6821 PIA and piggyback
breadboard experiment area.
( need more dipswitch options ) (need a few more switch strobe lines) Great job.

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