Looking for a playboy playfeild scan.

Thanks!

I had a quick question: On my Lost World I have a remote battery pack but no batteries installed while im repairing the boards. I loaded some credits into it to play test and when I power cycle the credits remain on the machine. As the game is new to me and the seller knew nothing about it is it normal for the credits to stay in the memory or is there an nvram installed?

I don't know of a pinball that DOES NOT save credits when it's turned off.

I cut the battery off my Star Gazer, but didn't install a memory cap or NVRAM. It would hold data for 2 or 3 days -- high score, last game scores, credits! Never investigated why, but thought it was pretty cool!

And I completely mis-read your post.
Okay, so, normally, yeah, the game will store credits. Without a battery, though, yeah.. in theory it should forget without power, and without NVRAM.

Had this happen as well. Had a Stern MPU 100 board out to install a full set of dip switches. When I reconnected the board to the external battery pack and booted up - the number of credits were still intact. I didn't think that was ever supposed to happen.

Thanks all for the response. Im not seeing any nvram or cap so I think this is just like what a few of you are saying and that there is some residual memory left on the chip for a bit. The mpu will be out of the machine for another 3-4 days so I'll see what happens.

Hey all, a bit new to pin ownership/repair. I have a Stern Ali and it has held up great for over a year. Just recently it blew fuse F4, so I replaced it. Didn't blow again, but starting the machine would produce a constant beep and the game wouldn't boot, so I turned it off, reseated all connectors in the backbox, and it fired up. On ball 3 though, flippers died and the displays started acting wacky. Turned it off, same constant beep and game wouldn't boot.

If it matters, I did recently test out LEDs in the game. I put them in the backbox, so I didn't think that would cause an issue or require the LED lamp driver since it was GI? Anyway, I swapped everything back to standard incandescent bulbs and got the same issue so I don't think my issue is related to backbox LEDs.

Which board back there should I look at first? Not too worried, as there seem to be alltek replacements for pretty much anything, but if I can fix it with a rebuild I'd rather save the money. Thanks!

Check the solenoids on the game to make sure one didn't lock on and short and check for the diodes to be attached on the coils.

The game won't boot without the 43 volts coming through F4. Check test point 5 for +43 volts give or take.

Could be a fried coil on the game, could be the BR3, or a few other things.

Hey guys,

Just joining the club now. Just bought this guy. Got a great deal. Some wear on the playfield but everything else looks great. works 100%. Looking forward to working with it. Fun game too!

Screenshot_20170715-095954 (resized).png

I love that game, there's one for sale near me I've been on the fence about. Mind me asking what you paid for it?

Do yourself a favor, get off that fence, and snag that bad boy before it s too late!
Great Classic Stern.

Congrats to Murphelman!
Nice pick-up.

I am in Canada so you would have to figure out the exchange but I paid $600 Canadian for it.

$600 Canadian?
Deal or no deal??
DEAL!!!

Players condition game is well worth what you paid. Rock that thing!

Yowza. Helluva deal, no way I'd have been able to pass on that!

I am a fan, it's just a bit on the high side. There's a comparable Paragon for 2/3rds the coin which is why I'm still on that fence.

How much were they asking for Big Game?

My thoughts exactly.
And what condition is it in?

Pretty nice shape, flippers might need an EOS adjustment as there's a bit of machine-gun chatter but it played well. I haven't given it the proper going-over yet but he's asking $1500.

Whoa I see what you mean. That is a bit on the pricey side. It would have to be nice and clean for that price and that would include the playfield and a scratch and fade free backglass.
Big Game is not a game in very high demand even though there are not all that many out there. Nevertheless, you should be able to find a decent one for much less if you keep your eyes open and are patient.

I'm getting alot of feedback from my speaker when the displays switch back and forth in attract mode and a constant buzzing also. It got much louder after I had replaced C23 & C26 on my SDB. I tried adjusting both pots on the sound board to no effect. Anyone have any idea on where to get started?

Try removing the ground screws on the soundboard and see if that helps.

I thought I would post the problem I was having with my Baby-Pac, just in case someone has similar problems.

Occasionally when I powered up the game, the insert lamps would work, but not light up the correct inserts. Sometimes turning it off and back on would resolve it. I thought it was the lamp matrix PIA U10 as swapping it would appear to resolve the issue.

Turned out to be the zero cross circuit. This circuit on the CPU board is fed by the GI AC voltage (on Baby Pac, other games may have different feed) and tells the lamp U10 PIA when to switch between the 2 lamps on each lamp string. Someone had snipped the wire at the GI tie-in point under the playfield and patched a wire from the 43V DC flipper circuit from the lamp/solenoid board into the zero cross circuit. Not sure why someone would make this mod but its no wonder why the zero cross circuit had a hard time functioning only detecting the ripple on the DC supply. Removing the jumper, reconnecting the GI wire under the playfield fixed it right up. Insert lamps function perfectly each and every time I power up the game.

Not sure how common this "mod" is but I thought I would post it just in case someone else has problems with inserts not lighting the correct inserts.

Removed the left side screw on the soundboard and its quiet as a mouse. Thanks for the help!

O.K. the story on this is Bally made a little change to the zero crossing detection circuitry
-- to there dash-35 board. So certain games that were made with diode lamps would be
-- driven one way and regular pinballs be driven the "traditional way". The tech or whom
-- ever was set on the "traditional" zero detection circuitry and probably did not have a
-- manual or they swapped out the CPU that had the 43 volts zero detection.
Note: Bally CPU board AS-2518-133 is the one that has CR52, a 1N4148 diode.
------ (Games with diode lamps).
------ Bally CPU board AS-2518-35 is the one that has R113, a 2k resistor.
------ (Games with no diode lamps).

Interesting, and good to know, thanks. My game had an Alltek CPU board so the mod was probably done for the CPU board that was in the game before the Alltek.

Hello all. Just got a Lost World and am on page 4 of this thread soaking in what I can. My game isn't fully booting and want to make sure I am on the right path. If I turn it on it does the first blink, then off, one, off, two, off, three, off, locks on. This is saying it got through 3 tests and fails the fourth, correct? The repair wiki says what the blinks are testing but to a new member, doesn't help much with the troubleshooting. Can I get some starting points? Thanks.

I'm a Bally noob but I recently learned that my Centaur will not full boot unless all the balls are detected in the trough.

That problem has been going on now for over thirty years.
There was a time when operators would bring the game in
for service and complain about it not working.
First call out, does it have all the balls in the trough.....
and you figured out the rest of the story.

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern

go through sections 4 and 5 and follow those recommendations.

Check your connectors for continuity. They are notorious for causing problems. I ended up repinning all of mine.

Also this is a good resource
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-quick-bally-driver-board-repair-bulletproofing

Turns out the blink was a U10 issue. Reseated it and it fully booted.

It will start a game but the displays are scrambled and several coils don't work even though there is voltage at others. The relay clicked at some random time and then the flippers worked. It only lasted a few seconds before it clicked off. Going to look into that next.

YES!!! SO glad that this thread exists. I just picked up another S and S and it is a mess.

Hi everyone! Just wanted to announce here that I created some new 6-digit and 7-digit replacement LED displays for these machines, complete with a dimmer to allow you to adjust the led digit brightness to your liking. Available in AMBER, BLUE and WHITE digits. Prices for the single-board design start at $119.95 for a set of 5x displays as a DIY Kit. Check them out @ http://www.pinitech.com/products/cat_displays.php

I also have the "battery eliminator" 5101 NVRAM for Bally/Stern games (including Stern MPU-200) available on the website and will have more cool Bally/Stern mods coming in the future Thanks for looking!

Loved watching the thread with those sweet displays coming together! I need more Ballys!

So are the 2518 factory boards pretty robust or worth saving/using if they are clean overall, Or will a full Alltek setup give me better reliability and longevity?

No reason NOT to use an original board. There's not much there to really go wrong - and if some fixes are done (i.e. Reset circuit, etc) when necessary, there's no reason they won't last forever.

I was playing with some of the wires yesterday on my Lost World MPU. I was able to get the flipper relay to click on, the displays to be mostly correct instead of looking like twinkling Xmas lights, and the attract mode is working. Still have a few switches that don't register, but I played a few games on it. The rings are broken in most places, every other light is out, and the previously mentioned issues, but it's alive. I have a ring kit and an MPU connector kit headed my way, so will do those and then see where we sit.

Pretty decent victory today. Repinned the MPU and the displays are not garbled and more switches work, but not all of them. The ones digit in the top left display has some foam over it, not a bad segment.

IMG_4501 (resized).JPG

Small victories are awesome, aren't they!!

Just finished a few of Ballys,
Next up.EBD. Centaur.

EBD, Centaur bith playfields done by the one and only
Ron Kruzman
Should look.goid in the Bally line up.

20170902_082532 (resized).jpg

20170902_082507 (resized).jpg

20170815_175446 (resized).jpg

The Rolling Stone's BG was just taken out of Bally crate !
From 1980, colirs are gorgeous

Wow!! That Stones is beautiful. First time I have ever seen one. Love the colors and artwork!!!

Played Rolling Stones for the first time at the Houston Arcade show last year. Good, fun gameplay. Gotta find one.

Shawn

Got a question about one of the digits display board on a Harlem Globetrotters. The board is shown here:
overall board

In the center, it looks burned. Here is a closeup:close up

Do you think that looks bad enough to replace the component? I am guessing all 3 resistors would have to be replaced, would there be anything else? Are all the boards the same? (I can get the values from the other boards)

Those definitely need to be replaced. The other boards are the same. Hopefully there isn't anything else, but there could be.

According to the schematic ( http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1125/Bally_1979_Harlem_Globetrotters_On_Tour_Manual.pdf ) page 29, resistors 7,9,11 are all 100k but it doesn't say the wattage... are these 1/4w, 1/2w, 1w, etc.? How would I find this out

I have a strikes and spares with a battery damaged AS2518 17 board.
Can I swap out my working AS 2518 35 board from another pin I have?

Yes, just verify jumpers are correct for the S&S ROMs.