(Topic ID: 85292)

Bally/Stern AS-2518 Club !


By mof

5 years ago



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  • 253 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by barakandl
  • Topic is favorited by 201 Pinsiders

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There are 1751 posts in this topic. You are on page 13 of 36.
#601 2 years ago
Quoted from mtmellum:

Respectfully, It's a "Must Have" tool Sir.

Oh, I know, believe me..

#602 2 years ago
Quoted from MJW:

I have a NGS with full LEDs. No flicker and have alltek light board. Every once in awhile the outlane switches cause all computer controlled lights to flash continuously . It looks just like light test mode from coin door switch. As soon as another switch is hit all lights go back to normal. Any ideas?

I started a separate thread but wanted to post on this club In case someone has this problem in the future. A Pinsider "Quench " suggested I invert all mpu dip switches to the exact opposite. This fixed my issue. Not able to pinpoint the exact switch but was due to switch 25 through 32 settings. Strange but game now works properly . Problem was game went into lamp test mode when outlane specials or drop target specials scored.

#603 2 years ago
Quoted from MJW:

I started a separate thread but wanted to post on this club In case someone has this problem in the future. A Pinsider "Quench " suggested I invert all mpu dip switches to the exact opposite. This fixed my issue. Not able to pinpoint the exact switch but was due to switch 25 through 32 settings. Strange but game now works properly . Problem was game went into lamp test mode when outlane specials or drop target specials scored.

Hah! interesting..
You may have a bad PIA chip. If the game sees all the dip switches OFF/closed, it will go into test mode. I can see that meaning that if a PIA is bad, a playfield switch may be read as a duip switch, causing the PIA to send the wrong signal back to the CPU, thinking all were then off.

#604 2 years ago

Quick question. Which game was the first with computer controlled drop targets?

#605 2 years ago

Rolling Stones I think had controlled drops ??????

#606 2 years ago
Quoted from pinkid:

Rolling Stones I think had controlled drops ??????

It does save progress between players/balls.

#607 2 years ago
Quoted from eh97ac:

Works best for most games. amazon.com link »

Quoted from eh97ac:

Most games pump out a whopping 5-10 watts....so this speaker is perfect and a great price.

I got my speaker, and plugged it in. My OEM speaker was fine - had no issues. so keep that in mind with my comments below..

This linked speaker works fine, sounds almost exactly the same to me; the upper tones seem slightly muffled, less clear than the OEM speaker.

So, if your OEM speaker is fine, then this won't be an upgrade. If your original speaker is damaged, this is a pretty good OEM replacement.

#608 2 years ago
Quoted from kursiv:

Quick question. Which game was the first with computer controlled drop targets?

Trident has them but doesn't store state between balls. Meteor has them and does store state. Both 1979 games.

#609 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

I got my speaker, and plugged it in. My OEM speaker was fine - had no issues. so keep that in mind with my comments below..
This linked speaker works fine, sounds almost exactly the same to me; the upper tones seem slightly muffled, less clear than the OEM speaker.
So, if your OEM speaker is fine, then this won't be an upgrade. If your original speaker is damaged, this is a pretty good OEM replacement.

I agree. Tried the one in the link. Sounds pretty much the same as the original.

#610 2 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

Trident has them but doesn't store state between balls. Meteor has them and does store state. Both 1979 games.

“Another unique new hit feature from Bally is the 4 memory drop targets..”. Guess the RStones flyer statement was a bit over the top.

#611 2 years ago
Quoted from kursiv:

Quick question. Which game was the first with computer controlled drop targets?

Stern/LAI 1979 Cosmic Princess has them. But only released in Australia and NZ. (336 made) .
Has 5 targets . 2 come up , hit them both 2x bonus,
then 3 come up , hit them all 3x bonus , then 4 , then all five come up , knock them all down for 5x bonus .
Really cool feature.
This game also had a photo unit on top , If you beat the high score , it took your photo and you got the instant photo.
But i have never seen one of these photo units ever .
image-1 (resized).jpg
This is how it looks at the start of a game , excuse the old bumper caps , they were replaced
CP SN unknown as yet P6100008 (2) (resized).JPG
PA130045 (resized).JPG

#612 2 years ago

Here's a -35 MPU question: I am working on several in an attempt to learn and hopefully bring them back to life. I have replaced the MC14011B IC at U19 with an HEF4011BP. Is that the proper substitute? I reviewed the datasheets and it appears to be a drop-in replacement, but when I do the "diode test" (red to ground and the black to each of the legs) I get different readings for several of the legs (note that I have a working -35 that I use for reference).

Thanks in advance.

#613 2 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

Meter the coil to make sure it's not dead.
Check continuity between the flipper coil and the SDB.
Repin the SDB.

So the coil is good, voltage is good, continuity is good between the flipper coils and continuity back to SDB is good. Is it common for the relay just below connector J1 on the SDB to go bad? Right flipper works fine. Left flipper still does not work at all.

#614 2 years ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

Is it common for the relay just below connector J1 on the SDB to go bad? Right flipper works fine. Left flipper still does not work at all.

Not common, but I have seen it. Usually the whole deal fails, not one side. So, cracked solder joints at J-2?? Maladjusted EOS switch? Have you checked continuity on the flipper button switch? Continuity of the EOS? I'm running out of ideas here...

#615 2 years ago

As I continue on my Viking Restoration I am wondering if anyone has copies of all the cards that are stapled in various spots (under the pf, inside the backbox, etc...) I would love to reprint new card stock to use.

#616 2 years ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

As I continue on my Viking Restoration I am wondering if anyone has copies of all the cards that are stapled in various spots (under the pf, inside the backbox, etc...) I would love to reprint new card stock to use.

Most should be under the bally section of pinball rebel

1 week later
#617 2 years ago

Hey guys -
Posting here as it's low priority, but I'm looking for price plates for a classic Bally coin door. Either one is fine -
$1 / 5 plays
$.50 / 3 plays (2 plays is acceptable too..)

The only catch is.. has to be a color OTHER than *green*. White, Yellow, Red, Orange, Blue, Purple, all fine. Just not green.

The $1 I can use the existing quarter metal plate, but if there's a $.50, I'll need the metal plate with a larger cutout. Of course, willing to pay..!

Edit: Found, thanks!

#618 2 years ago
Quoted from eh97ac:

Most should be under the bally section of pinball rebel

I cant find anything? have a link?

#620 2 years ago

thanks, I am looking for these cards

P2120219 (resized).JPG

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P2120226 (resized).JPG

P2120225 (resized).JPG

1 week later
#621 2 years ago

Does anyone have a pinout chart for all of the ICs on a -35 MPU that they would be willing to share?

#622 2 years ago
Quoted from FiatsRUs:

Does anyone have a pinout chart for all of the ICs on a -35 MPU that they would be willing to share?

Should be in the freely available schematics?

#623 2 years ago
Quoted from Coyote:

Should be in the freely available schematics?

Chasing every IC pin connection through the schematics is a ton of tedious work. If someone has already done it, why recreate the wheel? I am just inquiring if there is a fellow pinsider who is willing to share the fruits of their hard work. If not, I'll go back to the schematics. Thanks in advance.

#624 2 years ago
Quoted from FiatsRUs:

Chasing every IC pin connection through the schematics is a ton of tedious work. If someone has already done it, why recreate the wheel? I am just inquiring if there is a fellow pinsider who is willing to share the fruits of their hard work. If not, I'll go back to the schematics. Thanks in advance.

pm sent

#625 2 years ago
Quoted from kursiv:

Another unique new hit feature from Bally is the 4 memory drop targets..”. Guess the RStones flyer statement was a bit over the top.

The drop target score value was kept in memory not
how many targets were knocked down.
Behind the drop targets is a vacuumed formed window assembly.
In each cupped "window" is a #44/#47 lamp in it.( I do not know the
point values) but you scored your way up to a special.

#626 2 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

The drop target score value was kept in memory not
how many targets were knocked down.
Behind the drop targets is a vacuumed formed window assembly.
In each cupped "window" is a #44/#47 lamp in it.( I do not know the
point values) but you scored your way up to a special.

Actually, it did remember which targets were knocked down. The scores would cycle so you could time hitting the last drop to get the highest score. After clearing the bank twice it would cycle between special and (25 or 50k, whatever the highest value is).

1 week later
#627 2 years ago

Hey guys. I recently dropped a new bridge rectifier into my Big Game, but the voltages aren't correct. If any of you pros can help, I would appreciate it. Here's the link: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-with-new-bridge-rectifier#post-3634043.

Thanks!

3 weeks later
#628 2 years ago

Hi, I just bought my first pin: a Lost World. Seller said the top right board has a top right connector issue that prevents it from playing correctly, and he said I should buy a connector kit and a tool to crimp it. Could someone please provide a link? Currently, after moving it, it boots and flippers and scoring work when I manually load the ball, but it doesn't auto-load the ball when I start a new game, and the bottom bouncy things by the flipper don't work nor the lockout hole and the bumpers don't seem like they're doing they're thing right. Thanks! I'm really excited about this pin. I don't do nice stuff for myself often, so it's really nice to have something cool to call my own and enjoy.

#629 2 years ago

Hi Jeremy8419,

You should probably start your own thread, but it does sound like you are having Solenoid board issues. Check all fuses, get a multimeter and learn how to use it. Check for continuity and burned connectors etc. on the solenoid board. Stare at the schematics for a while. Ask questions and follow up on what advice you are given.

You can probably find the .156 pins and connectors at Great Plains Electronics, or maybe some other pinball parts places. You can probably tell if the connectors are burned up. I wouldn't start replacing things without testing them first. I like to get a game running at 95% before trying to get it to 100% if that makes sense.

There are replacement Solenoid boards available, but it sounds like you need to track down where your problem is. Get the manual from IPDB (http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1476/Bally_1977_Lost_World_Manual.pdf) and do some of the tests with the buttons inside the coin door. I bet that you will find that with a little poking around, you will learn a lot quickly.

Start your own thread so you can get the help you need. Most of all, Welcome to the club!

#630 2 years ago
Quoted from QuietEarp:

Hi Jeremy8419,
You should probably start your own thread, but it does sound like you are having Solenoid board issues. Check all fuses, get a multimeter and learn how to use it. Check for continuity and burned connectors etc. on the solenoid board. Stare at the schematics for a while. Ask questions and follow up on what advice you are given.
You can probably find the .156 pins and connectors at Great Plains Electronics, or maybe some other pinball parts places. You can probably tell if the connectors are burned up. I wouldn't start replacing things without testing them first. I like to get a game running at 95% before trying to get it to 100% if that makes sense.
There are replacement Solenoid boards available, but it sounds like you need to track down where your problem is. Get the manual from IPDB (http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1476/Bally_1977_Lost_World_Manual.pdf) and do some of the tests with the buttons inside the coin door. I bet that you will find that with a little poking around, you will learn a lot quickly.
Start your own thread so you can get the help you need. Most of all, Welcome to the club!

Could you tell me the correct forum? There re so many. Sorry.

#631 2 years ago
Quoted from Jeremy8419:

Could you tell me the correct forum? There re so many. Sorry.

Tech Early Solid State should do it!

In the mean time you should check those fuses and do a solenoid test (inside the coin door). Get a multimeter if you don't have one already. I look forward to you getting Lost World running.

#632 2 years ago

Replace fuse F4 with a 5 A fast blow. Your non-flipper solenoids are dead.

#633 2 years ago

I need to replace the backbox lock on my Centaur but unsure what size to get. Obviously a coindoor lock has too short a barrel, as I've tried to fit it. I see a 1 1/8" lock at Marco, is that correct? What does that measure, the barrel or the length of the entire assembly?

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/LKA118

2 weeks later
#634 2 years ago

Hey guys, I was helping a friend with an early Stern with -100 series boards that are virtually the same, if not the same as the 2518 boards. Issue is his 5v was running at 5.9v. I lifted R49 Andrew mentioned in another thread to drop it to 5.7v but that is still too high for comfort. I reflowed the solder joints around the 7805, even though they all looked good without change. I lifted legs on R50 and it was a little over 5 ohms but is supposed to be 4.7. Could this be it?

Anyone have any tips or is this simply a bad 7805SC?

#635 2 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Anyone have any tips or is this simply a bad 7805SC?

R49 and R50 are used to raise the DC level from the regulator a bit which is normally 5V. In Bally power supplies, R50 is a 2.2Ohm resistor. Stern raised the DC level a bit more with a 4.7Ohm resistor for R50. I would Replace the 4.7Ohm resistor with a 2.2Ohm resistor for more comfort.

Marco

#636 2 years ago

Thanks Marco. The fact that this resistor drifted up to 5+ ohms isn't helping. I'll try a 2.2 ohm there and report back.

#637 2 years ago

I was gifted a manor project playboy. Was able to make it boot and play and everything seems fine except for the flippers do not work. Tried swapping out solenoid driver boards and the flippers still do not work. Would this be a mpu issue? I thought about just buying a new mpu but i think I'd rather try to fix it first before resorting to that.

I also picked up a $100 night rider that has probably the most batter corrosion I've ever seen in person and it boots up but has a few issues. The saucer always fires as well as the right sling. Also tested with other solenoid driver boards and same issues. This time I'm pretty sure it's the mpu. For this one I know I will definitely need to replace the mpu. Anyone have a spare -17 mpu?

#638 2 years ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

I was gifted a manor project playboy. Was able to make it boot and play and everything seems fine except for the flippers do not work. Tried swapping out solenoid driver boards and the flippers still do not work. Would this be a mpu issue? I thought about just buying a new mpu but i think I'd rather try to fix it first before resorting to that.

As long as the flipper relay clicks it's not the MPU, that's its only involvement. Otherwise, it's the 7 or so connections between the flipper coils and ground.

#639 2 years ago

The flipper issue can be connectors. There are a few connectors that influence flipper behaviour:

J4 - 8: Flipper Disable. This one controls whether the relay is enabling the flippers. Can you hear the relay click when a game is started? If so this one is ok.

J2 - 1 & 2: Flipper Buttons, These are often damaged as the harness pulls down on the connector. Look into the connector and make sure the crimps aren't broken or flattened. Also cracked solder joints are very common here.

J1 - 8 & 9: Flipper Coils, Same issue with the crimp connectors.

J3 - 8: Flipper Power, The 43 VDC comes in on this line for the flippers. Same issue with the crimps.

#640 2 years ago

Hi everyone. I created new repro AS-2518 / MPU100 / MPU200 MPUs for Bally / Stern games. I have more stuff in the works too.

nvram.weebly.com

#641 2 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

Hi everyone. I created new repro AS-2518 / MPU100 / MPU200 MPUs for Bally / Stern games. I have more stuff in the works too.
nvram.weebly.com

I have 2 of these: this is a well built product.

#642 2 years ago
Quoted from barakandl:

Hi everyone. I created new repro AS-2518 / MPU100 / MPU200 MPUs for Bally / Stern games. I have more stuff in the works too.

Awesome!

#643 2 years ago

I just joined!
Currently we have here: EBD '81, Fireball II, Xenon, Centaur, Paragon, Night Rider "E", Star Trek '78 and x2 Mr. & Mrs. Pac Man.
Such a great era for solid state Bally pins. Formerly owned Early SS Ballys that have regrettably left our gameroom: Flash Gordon, Embryon, Space Invaders (X2), Baby Pac Man, Elektra, Vector and from Stern: Big Game and Lightning.
I'm looking forward to following closely here as I have several AS-2518's in various project stages.
~Steveo

#644 2 years ago
Quoted from MarAlb:

R49 and R50 are used to raise the DC level from the regulator a bit which is normally 5V. In Bally power supplies, R50 is a 2.2Ohm resistor. Stern raised the DC level a bit more with a 4.7Ohm resistor for R50. I would Replace the 4.7Ohm resistor with a 2.2Ohm resistor for more comfort.
Marco

So I reconnected R49 and made R50 2.7 ohm (measured, closest value I had) and the voltage went from 5.9 to 5.7. Maybe the effects of an aging 7805?

Is there harm in making R50 (zero ohms)? I suspect not as the reference design for the 7805 has the "common" pin tied to ground. I guess my other option is removing R49 again and taking back another .2V or so.

Whats typical for a Stern PS 5V supply?

#645 2 years ago

The game with this power supply problem is a Stern Magic. After getting it running again, the controlled inserts are very dim. I rebuilt the power supply board in the base cab with new resistors, header pins and fuse holder clips and they are still dim. The header pins on the lamp board are all new too.

Anyone have suggestions what the cause of dim inserts could be? Repin the cable connector on the power board? Other ideas to check?

#646 2 years ago

I literally just fixed dim insert lighting 5 minutes ago. Replaced BR1 and all is good again. Try that?

#647 2 years ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

So I reconnected R49 and made R50 2.7 ohm (measured, closest value I had) and the voltage went from 5.9 to 5.7. Maybe the effects of an aging 7805?
Is there harm in making R50 (zero ohms)? I suspect not as the reference design for the 7805 has the "common" pin tied to ground. I guess my other option is removing R49 again and taking back another .2V or so.
Whats typical for a Stern PS 5V supply?

I should expect about 5.2V in this configration which is a nice value to compensate losses caused by connectors and wiring.

It is no problem just to jumper R50 and remove R49. Then, the output should be 5V +/- 0.1V. If the output is still at the high side, the regulator drifted away over the years. You can also experiment with a lower value for R50, 1 or 1.5 Ohm.

#648 2 years ago

Was able to get playboy working!! Also the sound board started working too. There were some wires that were previously crimp connected together on the rectifier board. Cut the connectors off, reconnected, soldered and heat shrinked them back together, and plugged it back in and everything worked!!! Now I just need to redo the connectors on the rectifier board. Thanks for the suggestions and help!

Now onto the night rider. Mpu and solenoid driver board are junk. Just going to find cheap replacements for now. Thought about taking a board out of one of my Mata haris and buying a new board for it instead.

IMG_7586 (resized).JPG

#649 2 years ago
Quoted from Its_me_aj:

I literally just fixed dim insert lighting 5 minutes ago. Replaced BR1 and all is good again. Try that?

Thanks! I'll check that!

Quoted from MarAlb:

I should expect about 5.2V in this configration which is a nice value to compensate losses caused by connectors and wiring.
It is no problem just to jumper R50 and remove R49. Then, the output should be 5V +/- 0.1V. If the output is still at the high side, the regulator drifted away over the years. You can also experiment with a lower value for R50, 1 or 1.5 Ohm.

Thanks!

#650 2 years ago
Quoted from MarAlb:

I should expect about 5.2V in this configration which is a nice value to compensate losses caused by connectors and wiring.
It is no problem just to jumper R50 and remove R49. Then, the output should be 5V +/- 0.1V. If the output is still at the high side, the regulator drifted away over the years. You can also experiment with a lower value for R50, 1 or 1.5 Ohm.

I find over voltage on 5v is very common in Bally / Stern games. I suspect it also contributes to the plague of u15 failures. Bally "juicing" mods to the 5v regulator can lead to the 5v rail being over volts. I have seen them go as high as 5.6v.

When going through one of these games, always check the 5v. If I find over voltage I cut out R49 first. If still over voltage then I replace r50 with zero ohm.

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