(Topic ID: 85292)

Bally/Stern AS-2518 Club !


By mof

4 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 1,112 posts
  • 211 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 hours ago by desertT1
  • Topic is favorited by 164 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 192 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

Frontier switch Matrix (resized).jpg
Untitled (resized).jpg
IMG_1812.JPG
IMG_0159.JPG
IMG_0173.JPG
IMG_1813.JPG
Untitled (resized).png
SDB_TP3.jpg
Connector (resized).jpg
IMG_7963 (resized).JPG
IMG_6001 (resized).jpg
IMG_6002 (resized).jpg
IMG_5999 (resized).jpg
IMG_3401 (resized).jpg
IMG_3398 (resized).jpg
14 (resized).jpg

There are 1112 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 23.
#1 4 years ago

Here on Pinside, we've created 10+ clubs to promote the stars of the class of AS-2518:
Centaur, EBD, Fathom, Embryon, Flash Gordon, Medusa, Paragon, Viking, Xenon, etc...
Star Gazer, Seawitch, Nine Ball, Big Game, Quicksilver, Catacomb, Lightning, Flight 2000, etc...
Now we have a club for when you'd like to reach a wider Bally/Stern audience, and bring people together to discuss:

* troubleshooting
* repair
* finding replacement parts
* creating replacement parts
* buying/selling parts
* sharing ideas
* common Bally issues

Hopefully we can bring together the biggest fans, and sharpest minds in restoring these Bally/Stern classics from (1976-1982.)

If you have a question or contribution that you think may apply to all AS-2518s, then this is the place to post it !

Bally Repair Specialists
barakandl

Bally Phantom Pop Bumper
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/pop-bumper-fires-with-flipper-activity/

[x] add to your favorites !

Have fun!
-mof

#2 4 years ago

OK, I will start. Hi, my name is Dan and I'm a pinaholic. I have owned KISS and Future Spa. Getting ready to buy a FG. I am in need of a playfield to bring it back to life.

#3 4 years ago

In!! Have a Medusa and Power Play. Love this era of Bally machines!

#4 4 years ago

As a owner of a Fathom, Flash Gordon, EBD and a Centaur II, I'm with it!

Still looking for a Paragon.

#6 4 years ago

Paragon, and Lost World owner here. ...but to be technical - I really should join the Alltek club.

13
#7 4 years ago

I specialize is in Bally PCB repair. I have rebuilt hundreds of Bally / Stern MPUs. I know and have dealt with every about every failure in Bally boardsets. Feel free to ask me questions.

#8 4 years ago
Quoted from SunKing:

Paragon, and Lost World owner here. ...but to be technical - I really should join the Alltek club.

Same here as when I restored the Power Play I used all Alltek boards and may do the same when I do the Medusa restoration.

Quoted from barakandl:

I specialize is in Bally PCB repair. I have rebuilt hundreds of Bally / Stern MPUs. I know and have dealt with every about every failure in Bally boardsets. Feel free to ask me questions.

Good to know and thanks for offering up the assistance!

#9 4 years ago

I have two Bally 2518 systems. Bally Star Trek and Star Trek: The Mirror Universe.

I've got to go back to the drawing board on my Lamp board replacements and the AS2518 soundcard / FPGA design. Plan to do that after TPF later this week.

#10 4 years ago

Bally lamp sockets. It's not the contacts. They are fine.

I have 14 dead lamp sockets underneath this Embryon project.
I had the same problem with my Centaur... Now I remember -- it was a bad chip ! 4013 on the aux lamp board. http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/tech-request-bally-centaur-some-lamps-are-out#post-1230176

I need to upload a pic and figure out which bulbs these are and what pattern I can find. They "seem" to be randomly located around the board... I'll open up a separate thread for this tonight.

thanks!
-mof

#11 4 years ago

from above a 555 socket looks like this ... [= =]

put a tiny flat screwdriver in one side and bend the contacts together a bit.. ( where the arrow is)

[ = = ]
_^_^

only have to do each side once ( not top and bottom) . dont get too excited - you are trying to make them a bit closer not snap them off..

#12 4 years ago

I have a nitro ground shaker that I'm slowly bringing back to life. Does that get me in? With regards to the lamp socket question, I've tried and tried to follow other's advice on how to rehabilitate bad sockets with no success. Replacing them seems to be the way to go for me, and doesn't really take any longer than trying to clean them for most of the sockets.

#13 4 years ago
Quoted from Piparoo:

I have a nitro ground shaker that I'm slowly bringing back to life. Does that get me in? With regards to the lamp socket question, I've tried and tried to follow other's advice on how to rehabilitate bad sockets with no success. Replacing them seems to be the way to go for me, and doesn't really take any longer than trying to clean them for most of the sockets.

As much time as i spend f-ing with bally lamp sockets, you are better off just replacing them. Pain in the butt...

Some tips though if you want to try and make them work....

Twist the barrel to knock off any corrsion.

Twist the tab with the return wire to knock off corrosion.

Solder the bare BUS wire right to the barrel of the lamp socket. This avoids the poor connection at the base of the barrel where it swivels. You can also use solder solder the barrel to the mounting tab so it no longer swivels. That does the same thing. You will have to ruff up the surface for solder to stick.

Move the wire carrying the return from the solder tab, to the nipple on the back of the socket. The spring loaded thing.

Inspect the inside of the socket. If you see some crud in there, knock it out with a pokey tool or whatever.

Pinch the socket with plyers to get it to hold the bulb more snug.

#14 4 years ago
Quoted from wiredoug:

from above a 555 socket looks like this ... [= =]
put a tiny flat screwdriver in one side and bend the contacts together a bit.. ( where the arrow is)
[ = = ]
_^_^
only have to do each side once ( not top and bottom) . dont get too excited - you are trying to make them a bit closer not snap them off..

Safety Pup says...Make sure the game is off before doing this kids

#15 4 years ago

Wondering which 2518 games are commonly upgraded to 7-digit displays?
I've got an embryon that sure could use 7.
-mof

#16 4 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Wondering which 2518 games are commonly upgraded to 7-digit displays?
I've got an embryon that sure could use 7.
-mof

I think if you google around and you will find you can do it easily enough
http://www.pinball4you.ch/okaegi/pro_soft.html etc

#17 4 years ago

Picked up a Nitro Ground shaker at TPF. Have some work to do before I even try to boot it up. The mpu looks strange though. Anybody know if this is correct? It appears to be from pc games.

20140329_120609_resized.jpg

#18 4 years ago
Quoted from bbaker2824:

Picked up a Nitro Ground shaker at TPF. Have some work to do before I even try to boot it up. The mpu looks strange though. Anybody know if this is correct? It appears to be from pc games.
20140329_120609_resized.jpg 218 KB

That's definitely not a dash 35. Any idea if the game works?

#19 4 years ago

No. I'm going to replace the rectifier before I even plug it in. The seller said it had some lights out. He put a Stern boasts in thinking that would good it. It didn't. He gave me the original light board also.

#20 4 years ago

Freaking auto spell.. boasts=board

#21 4 years ago

Have you done a rectifier replacement before? It looks like a PITA soldering all those wires. Although the pinhead rectifier board looks pretty sweet!

#22 4 years ago
Quoted from bbaker2824:

Picked up a Nitro Ground shaker at TPF. Have some work to do before I even try to boot it up. The mpu looks strange though. Anybody know if this is correct? It appears to be from pc games.

20140329_120609_resized.jpg 218 KB

Wow...

I have never seen that replacement MPU before. Can you get a manufacturer markings or any info from it?

*** btw you have a hack on your driver board / rectifier. Probably carrying the 12v return wire that burns.

#23 4 years ago

The only marking I see is the "pc games" on the bottom right corner. I haven't pulled the board yet and inspected it though. I will do that tonight.

As far as the rectifier replacement, I haven't done one but my buddy has done several and said he would come over and lend a hand... I'll have plenty of beer.

#24 4 years ago

I have, appears, the same board in my Medusa machine. It's a STERN board (LDA-100 Rev G) if that helps at all?!??!?!

2014-03-31 15.51.01.jpg
#25 4 years ago
Quoted from wiredoug:

I think if you google around and you will find you can do it easily enough
http://www.pinball4you.ch/okaegi/pro_soft.html etc

Does anyone sell these boards which do the 6 digit to 7 digit conversion? Either fully populated or in kit form.

I want to convert a game to 7 digit but I don't want to mess with etching a board or perf board.

Here's a pic of the board from that link above.

pro_d7_007.jpg
#26 4 years ago

EBD and Power Play here.

EBD was my first pin and will always have a place in my collection.

#27 4 years ago

My collection focuses on early Bally SS machines. I've got Playboy, KISS, Mata Hari and a Power Play. Looking for more of course.....................

#29 4 years ago

i posted the answer there as well

#30 4 years ago

Fathom and Embryon so far. FG possibly on deck.

#31 4 years ago

I have a Mata Hari and a Paragon. The Mata Hari had an Ultimate MPU when I got it, and an old Stern solenoid board that was pretty flakey. I replaced that with an Alltek board as well. It's great that we have a source for superior replacement boards to keep these old pins working for years to come.

#32 4 years ago
Quoted from zombywoof:

I have a Mata Hari and a Paragon. The Mata Hari had an Ultimate MPU when I got it, and an old Stern solenoid board that was pretty flakey. I replaced that with an Alltek board as well. It's great that we have a source for superior replacement boards to keep these old pins working for years to come.

Word! The Alltek stuff is awesome!

#33 4 years ago

Had a Centaur, now a Flash Gordon and EBD, both excellent games and I just plain love this era.

Barakandl, question PM coming your way.

#34 4 years ago
Quoted from Spybryon:

Does anyone sell these boards which do the 6 digit to 7 digit conversion? Either fully populated or in kit form.

I want to convert a game to 7 digit but I don't want to mess with etching a board or perf board.

These are the 6 to 7 digit conversion boards i make and use to convert the older SS Ballys over.002-174.JPG

#35 4 years ago

I have been collecting this era of pinball for 9 years. Currently own Night Rider, Six Mill $, Star Trek, and Harlem Globetrotters.
I enjoy rebuilding boards and making things work again. These machines deserve it. Can't wait to see what pops up in this club. Later!

#36 4 years ago
Quoted from Hellfire:

These are the 6 to 7 digit conversion boards i make and use to convert the older SS Ballys over.

002-174.JPG 134 KB

Looks good. Would you be interested in selling me one? Also I can handle a kit form and soldering (actually prefer it that way).

OOOPS, that is some sort of off the shelf perf board, isn't it?

Have a picture of the backside?

Post edited by Spybryon: clarify

#37 4 years ago

Quick question...Would a Bally AS-2518-35 board be usable in a machine that came originally with an AS-2518-17? If so, is it an easy replacement, or is there much work involoved?

#38 4 years ago

Yes it would be useable. In order to do so you would have to make sure it is jumpered correctly for the size of the eproms you are putting in there. If you are moving the eproms over, then you need to make sure the -35 board is set correctly for the size of the eproms. The "jumpers" are actually a bunch of traces that are either cut or connected (sometimes with 0ohm resistors, or you can even use small wires, etc.).

#39 4 years ago

Question time ... Just landed a very nice Paragon. Displays are missing a few digits and displays 1 and 3 are flickering.

Bad connector plug?

rd.

#40 4 years ago

http://stevekulpa.net/pinball/bally_disp6r.htm and follow the bouncing ball for starters RD.

#41 4 years ago
Quoted from wiredoug:

http://stevekulpa.net/pinball/bally_disp6r.htm and follow the bouncing ball for starters RD.

Awesome link, cheers man.

rd.

#42 4 years ago

Reflow pins for the connect first, then consider your driver and logic transistors. 5401s and mps-a42s. While you are at it, change out the 100k resistors with 1/2 watters if you have them. I just got done doing this to all of the displays on my Flash Gordon this evening. Also, congrats! Paragon is a great pin. Who's have thought there were so many pins in New Zealand?!

#43 4 years ago
Quoted from shimoda:

Reflow pins for the connect first, then consider your driver and logic transistors. 5401s and mps-a42s. While you are at it, change out the 100k resistors with 1/2 watters if you have them. I just got done doing this to all of the displays on my Flash Gordon this evening. Also, congrats! Paragon is a great pin. Who's have thought there were so many pins in New Zealand?!

Well, half of them are in my house.

Seriously though, not a lot of 70s and 80s games here. Not a lot were imported due to huge import tax at the time. Then a lot of them were broken up for parts to keep others running.

Then in the 1980s Space Invaders was huge ... So no pins then either.

It really wasn't until system11s and WPC and DE that the pins started flowing back to NZ.

rd

#44 4 years ago

Hi Club! I'm working on restoring my $25 Nitro Ground Shaker. I have it up and working 100% (thanks to pinsider Chris Munson for helping with the sound board) and have a question about the Alltek lamp/led board. If I put LEDs in NGS do I need the Alltek board? What will the LEDs do in a 2518 game if you just use the normal factory lamp driver board? I've got to replace a bunch of the light sockets on this game anyway if that makes a difference in whether or not I should buy the LED board. Any thoughts?

#45 4 years ago

Got a xenon, I'm in, if you'll let me. Like sunking, most boards were replaced with allteck and rottendog. Still got the original sound and aux light boards - does that count?

#46 4 years ago

Piparoo, If you use leds for GI purposes ie backglass and playfield you should be ok w/the factory driver. It's the switched lamps that would flicker.

#47 4 years ago

What pinkid said. Normal GI is fine.
Switch Illumination will flicker due to leds not providing enough hold current to keep scrs on.

#48 4 years ago
Quoted from Zitt:

What pinkid said. Normal GI is fine.
Switch Illumination will flicker due to leds not providing enough hold current to keep scrs on.

I'm working on a solution for that; but waiting on PCBs from OSHPark to begin test/debug.

#49 4 years ago

Love this era, I'm in with Xenon and Elektra.

#50 4 years ago

Thanks for the lamp advice fellas. Has anyone had success with no flicker bulbs in the switched lamps, like comet pinball's optix bulbs? With a game like NGS, it would be less expensive to go with the no flicker bulbs for the switched lamps, even at $2-$3 a pop, than spring for the $100 alltek board.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 15.00
$ 10.00
$ 90.00
Lighting - Led
Geeteoh Electronics
$ 24.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
$ 149.00
$ 149.00
From: $ 140.00
$ 75.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
$ 19.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
From: $ 16.95
$ 149.00
$ 149.00
$ 30.00
Electronics
Third Coast Pinball
$ 92.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
$ 5,799.00
Pinball Machine
Flip N Out Pinball
From: $ 134.95
€ 3.95
Flipper Parts
Multigame
$ 159.00
$ 15.45
Gameroom - Decorations
KAHR.US Circuits
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
South Burlington, VT
$ 24.95
Hey modders!
Your shop name here
There are 1112 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 23.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside