(Topic ID: 290458)

Bally AS-2518-22 Voltage regulator problem with high voltage

By Inkochnito

3 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 80 posts
  • 16 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by gdonovan
  • Topic is favorited by 9 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

No games have been linked to this topic.

    Topic Gallery

    View topic image gallery

    20221012_182345 (resized).jpg
    PinCompares (resized).jpg
    IMG_0023b.jpg
    pasted_image (resized).png
    20210417_214727 (resized).jpg
    Stern_High_Voltage_Regulator_schematic (resized).jpg
    IMG_0017a.jpg
    340623_4334341271808_10133355_o (resized).jpg
    switching (resized).png
    Screenshot_20210415-201326 (resized).png
    Heat_Sink_Wakefield_Vette (resized).jpg
    AS-2518-22_front_good (resized).jpg
    AS-2518-22_front_bad (resized).jpg
    AS-2518-22_back_good (resized).jpg
    AS-2518-22_back_bad (resized).jpg
    SDB_HV1.png

    You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider barakandl.
    Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

    #7 3 years ago

    Low output voltage is usually bad 140v zener diode in my experience.

    #9 3 years ago
    Quoted from Inkochnito:

    Which part would be the best replacement for this zener diode?
    My local parts shop recommends 1N5382B 5W zener diode.
    It's a bit too big for the holes in the board and you would have to drill new ones.
    Is the 1N5275A 0.5W zener to light for the board?
    Is there a better alternative?

    1N5275A, 0.5w 140v zener is plenty fine. It was pretty rare they fail, but it does happen. Not sure why.

    I am using 1n5382 on my replacement board. I think most 140v zener diodes are obsolete now. That part was actually the cheapest one I could find, ~ $0.04ea. It is bit overkill being a 5w part and the tolerance range seems high, but works fine in this circuit. I am not sure if the drill holes and spacing on the original board is big enough though.

    Not exactly you symptoms, but close.

    Untitled (resized).pngUntitled (resized).png

    #13 3 years ago

    Power transistors under western brands out of china usually big time pass. There are OK Chinese transistors but they usually have a unique part number and official looking datasheet, ie from LCSC and not ebay/aliexpress.

    If you are having trouble with finding the original can transistors MJE3439 can be used if you get the pin out correct. TIP50 is close enough too. You don't really even need a heat sink on either of them based on temperature readings I have done, but a small TO220 can be mounted to them with an m3 screw and nut.

    https://www.arrow.com/en/products/mje3439g/on-semiconductor

    pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

    #18 3 years ago
    Quoted from Quench:

    Are you sure about the 95V and 98V at the Q22 pins? The voltage on the base should be higher than the emitter, not lower.
    [quoted image]

    Nice Quench! It is easier to understand the way you have it drawn.

    2 weeks later
    #55 3 years ago
    Quoted from Inkochnito:barakandl Would this heat sink work for the TIP50G?
    https://nl.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Wakefield-Vette/291-H36AB?qs=VVKQmw408U%252Bz99MOvnriAQ%3D%3D
    No screws to get lose, not too heavy.
    Giving just a bit more cooling....
    [quoted image]

    yes that should be fine. i measured the temp of MJE3439 used in this circuit just using a large area of PCB foil to heat sink and neither one is over 40c so just about any heatsink is fine and even naked does not come close to maximum temp.

    #63 3 years ago
    Quoted from Quench:

    The question is why do we see the HV circuit blow out more than we should?
    The only time I've had to re-repair a board was when a friend disconnected/connected a display live and it killed the HV section.
    I guess another reason is when the 100k 1/4W resistors in the digit drive circuit on the displays go up in flames.
    From Dolly Parton onwards, Bally revised the high voltage F2 fuse on the rectifier board from a slow blow to a fast blow (same 750mA rating).

    The transistors seem to give up the ghost for no good explainable reason at times. I have had at least one go short Vin = Vout while running in my home. The only thing wrong was transistors and a couple resistors burn presumably after the fact. I am sure you can have human error accidents too. The display PCBs will get covered in dust, ash, and whatever. At some point maybe the HV can arc over. I have not had the HV circuit get blown out in any of my replacement boards that I know of. Small sample size and short length of time.

    This can happen too. High voltage is a bitch.
    340623_4334341271808_10133355_o (resized).jpg340623_4334341271808_10133355_o (resized).jpg

    #66 3 years ago

    That burnt display i pictured came in a dead, sitting in a warehouse for probably a long time, game. The SDB was missing but I assume the HV section got smoked too.

    I have seen the MPU board 1K2 series resistors burnt to a crisp too. I guess when the digit driver goes short C to E it can put high voltage through the connector that goes back to the PIA chip with that 1K2 resistor in series.

    When plugging in the display live HV is at Pin 1 and ground is at 13. Some interesting situations happen when the ground is still floating?

    #69 3 years ago

    My replacement checks those boxes as long as you count a fuse as current limiting the HV output =D.

    FWIW stern's later MPU200 game with the HV shutdown circuit does not seem to work, at least not in all cases, as the sdb board HV section will get damaged on overcurrent. Fuse probably should be added back in for those games.

    #72 3 years ago
    Quoted from Inkochnito:

    Do you mean the 4 transistor version like this schematic?[quoted image]

    Yes. That's it. The shutdown circuit is nice idea but the fuse should not have been deleted.

    Based on all the boards i have amassed seems more typical of the stern sdb without the fuse to be burnt up when the HV section has a problem.

    20210417_214727 (resized).jpg20210417_214727 (resized).jpg

    #76 3 years ago
    Quoted from Quench:

    It measures good with my ESR tester but was causing the 750mA H.V F2 fuse on the rectifier board to blow every time I powered on. One for the memory bank.
    [quoted image]

    leaking too much DC if the ESR is good?

    Quoted from Inkochnito:

    I've seen it happen when you put the display connector in reverse on the display board.
    It instantly fries the 1K2 resistor on the MPU.
    Some cheap ass repairman did not put in a lock pin and the connector got twisted around.
    I failed to see the red wire on the wroung side of the connector before it was too late....

    PIA probably not happy about sinking high voltage either. I can't remember if the PIA was bad when I have encountered this, but likely to at least kill one port.

    You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider barakandl.
    Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.

    Reply

    Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

    Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

    Donate to Pinside

    Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


    This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-as-2518-22-voltage-regulator-problem-with-high-voltage?tu=barakandl and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

    Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.