Have you cleaned the EOS switches? Also inspect the right EOS switch contacts and see if it's pitted/uneven looking. If it is, replace it.
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Have you cleaned the EOS switches? Also inspect the right EOS switch contacts and see if it's pitted/uneven looking. If it is, replace it.
Quoted from mathrocks:Thanks! What is the best way to clean them? Would you physically remove the switch to clean it?
For most contacts on an EM, you want to use a very very light sandpaper/file/etc. I like using flexstone. No need to remove it from the game.
Since the flipper button and EOS switches have more current running through them and get used more heavily than the other switches, you can use something a little beefier like this Metal Contact File
http://www.pbresource.com/tools.html
If you're new to EMs I would read section 1, 2 and the relevant parts of section 3 on pinrepair's EM article:
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index1.htm#top
Definitely consider a full rebuild kit if they've never been rebuilt. Grime and worn plastic/metal parts on EMs can lead to all kinds of problems and sluggish gameplay
http://www.pbresource.com/rebuildkit.html#KT-BFLIP01
Quoted from mathrocks:Thanks! This is really helpful! My next question was going t be the best place to get the EOS switch but I can see that the kit you shared already has two of them in the kit. I don’t see any pitting or unusual build up on the EOS switch. Although one leg of the switch does move a little which could be causing it to not make good contact.
If the contacts are black, then that's the buildup that needs to be cleaned. They were originally shiny metal. What happens is when the two contacts move closer and closer together, right before they touch the electricity jumps from one contact to the next. This jump in electricity is that spark you were seeing. This jump creates the black soot, and on higher current contacts the jump can cause pitting. Since this is an EOS switch, it's normally closed, and the opening of the switch causes the jump in electricity. A loose switch can also cause the flipper to feel weak. Try tightening everything (the stack, the mounting plate, the coil brackets) and see if it helps. Any play in the metal plunger where the roll pin goes through is bad as well
Quoted from mathrocks:I tried tightening everything and it is still the same. I definitely think I’ll need to invest in the flipper rebuild kit. Can you see the top picture above where the EOS switch contains a blue, plastic/paper piece between the switch? It looks like one leg of the switch was originally too long and it was then cut or broken too short. So the blue plastic/paper piece is actually what the plunger hits to open the switch. I’m thinking part of the problem is that assembly.
That's called fish paper, and it's there to ensure the switches only touch at the contact points, and the arm which moves the switch doesn't get shorted. It's supposed to be there. Before you buy that flipper rebuild kit, I would read that pinrepair page and see if there's anything else you potentially need to buy along with it.
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