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(Topic ID: 90891)

Bally Aladdin's Castle Project


By troxel

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 24 posts
  • 8 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 years ago by rolf_martin_062
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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#1 6 years ago

Got this project game and just wanted to get some thoughts on it. The PF is shot, and is going to be redone. I was wondering if I can get the game "working" without the PF. I realize that I will have to manually activate some relays, and won't be perfect, but won't I be able to see if the game resets and scores properly?

There are a couple hacks on the coin door and backbox. Is the best advice to undue this? I got a copy of the manual and schematics yesterday.

Is the best attack of this game to start in the backbox? I've attached a few photos to show the game and some repairs that need to be done.

Thanks for any advice.

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#2 6 years ago

I would not bother to try to work on only "part" of an EM machine. All the parts are inter-related with Normal Closed circuits etc. that are necessary for other things to function. There have been a few posts of other people trying to do just as you suggest and get absolutely no where until they plug everything back up together as it should be.

What you CAN do, if you so choose, it to work on the various parts without any power applied. Hand activate stepper units to insure they step up, step down, or reset smoothly from any position and that they activate any associated end of travel or run out, or limit switches properly. Clean all rivet heads and wiper contacts and then lubricate the disc and all pivot points. You can visually inspect, clean, and adjust any relay with its switches by observing that each set of contacts has proper "over travel" which is all part of the self cleaning aspect of a mechanical relay. Normally closed points should be closed and normally open points should be open. And both should change states when the relay is gently "bottomed out" against the coil core. You can clean each set of points while you are doing this. Cleaning should take place first, then check and adjust the point gaps. I prefer to use a metal needle file (or automotive point file) as opposed to a flex stone. Flex stones have a tendency to leave tiny rocks behind which will prevent a set of points from making contact. Not so much an issue when cleaning one known set of bad points that you can go back and do again if they seem to be still bad. But a BIG problem is you do 100+ contacts on a dead game and then hope it to function 100% when you test fire it. A true burnishing tool is also good but may not do the job on a badly weathered game (on that has sat for years exposed to a hostile environment).

You can also clean, repair and replace any playfield hardware again, without power and then do the final fine tuning once you put it all together and power it up. I just did this same exact thing to a Jack in the Box "parts" playfield that had sat for about 20 years. After repopulating it and cleaning and lubricating everything, it dropped into the host game with only minimal adjustments necessary.

#3 6 years ago

As to the Hacks, if you can locate the associated switches and coils on the schematic, I would put it back to the way the schematic shows. Otherwise, you may want to fire it up first to see exactly what or what it won't do and then address each item individually. There may be a reason for the hack, but more than likely, it won't be something the factory would have done or provided as a field fix.

#4 6 years ago

Big project, is everything there?

#5 6 years ago

If you need inspiration, check this refit out.

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/central-park-kill-or-save

#6 6 years ago

Thanks for the replies. Everything is there, and wanted some experience working on EMs. This came by the way of a friend that wanted me to work on it for him. The playfield was taken apart in separate bags with photos and everything labeled. It was a very thorough job. If it wasn't for that, then I would have probably have passed on this game. I thought everything else looked good.

I started with the score reels last night, and cleaned a couple, but still getting stuck in the 9th position. I replaced the coil sleeve and cleaned up any gunk that was on it. I imagine that I need to adjust the switches a little bit to get it working smoothly. Any other hints if that doesn't work?

My plan of attack is to work on the score reels, credit unit, and ball count unit first. All of them are sticking when manually activated. There is also a burnt coil that needs to be replaced to.

I will keep updating this thread and will probably ask for a bunch of help. I'll try to document what I have done throughout the game with photos and text.

#7 6 years ago
Quoted from troxel:

Everything is there, and wanted some experience working on EMs

And it begins!!
Good on you, I'm sort of looking for a project too maybe be not quite that big, must be Gottlieb, as i'm a little weak on Gottlieb's

#8 6 years ago

Just picked up a nice one of these today as a matter of fact. Previous owners had it for 25 years in a dry/clean basement and kept good care of it. I played a couple of games at there place and it was pretty neat, never really payed attentiont to it before. Cool game and great artwork. Good luck with yours.

John P. Dayhuff
Battle Creek, Mi.
269-979-3836

#9 6 years ago

Two quick question has I am starting to clean the score reels. I'm still having the reel hang up in the 9th position. I am sure this is an easy fix, but wondering what I might have missed. I tried adjusting the contacts and lubed the metal on metal contacts on the bottom.

Also, when cleaning contacts do you clean the whole area of the contact or just a good amount in the middle where they meet?

#10 6 years ago

i see the replay advance coil is toast and the match unit wiper board is cracked. sometimes hard to find parts can be found at pinball salvage.

#11 6 years ago

Finally figured out how to take apart and adjust the score reels. I had to adjust the 9th position switch and was operating smoothly.

I pulled all four score reels from player one, and started a deep clean on them. I realized that I need to order more coil sleeves as the old ones are disgusting. This game is a train wreck, but I guess a good one to learn on.

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1 week later
#12 6 years ago

Finally done with the back box. I went through the score reels, cleaned the credit and ball unit, and patched up the match unit. I pulled out the bottom panel of the game, and will start going through that next.

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#13 6 years ago

I have a fully working Aladdin's at home right now if you need any pics. the ABCD switch banks at the back of the PF can be touchy. The stuff you've got cleaned up looks really nice.

#14 6 years ago

Thanks, TopJimmyCooks and for the offer on the photos. I will take you up on it right now . Can you send me a photo of the switch stack on the credit unit? This is a spot where the wires where cut and soldered together. I want to make sure that I have it correct.

#15 6 years ago
Quoted from troxel:

Thanks, TopJimmyCooks and for the offer on the photos. I will take you up on it right now . Can you send me a photo of the switch stack on the credit unit? This is a spot where the wires where cut and soldered together. I want to make sure that I have it correct.

Sorry just havn't gotten to it yet on my end. Been pretty busy...., let me know if you still need the pics or not.

John P. Dayhuff
Battle Creek, MI.
269-979-3836

#16 6 years ago

John, I haven't got the pics yet. If you have a chance, can you snap a couple for me?

#17 6 years ago
Quoted from troxel:

John, I haven't got the pics yet. If you have a chance, can you snap a couple for me?

Sure thing, I'll get it done tomorrow no problem.

John P. Dayhuff
Battle Creek, Mi.
269-979-3836

#18 6 years ago

All pictures have been sent to the interested parties and to you too Troxel.
Thanks,

John P. Dayhuff
Battle Creek, Mi.
269-979-3836

#19 6 years ago

Got the bottom panel done and the game is going back to the owner to get the playfield done. When he gets done with it, I will then plug it in and see what happens from there. Might be a while before I get it back.

One question on it though. I found about a 4 inch red/black wire on the bottom of the cabinet when I was cleaning it out. I looked at the schematics and cannot find a 18-1. I found all the other 18s and they had the wire on it, so none were missing. I did find two 81-1 on the schematics, but they were both black/red. Any ideas on where the missing wire could go?

#20 6 years ago
Quoted from troxel:

I looked at the schematics and cannot find a 18-1.

On a few of the bally schematic I have, 18-1 goes from the out hole SW to the scr motor, but would be longer than 4”

2 years later
#21 4 years ago

I have a nice Aladdin's castle but I have issue with ball not advancing properly... Any chance someone has nice pictures/scans of the schematic? the one on IPDB are very low resolution... I am not an EM wiz so I need all the help I can get

3 weeks later
#22 4 years ago

just circling back on this... I found schematics on sale online which took a while for me to get (below pics of it). Though It still isn't helping me much, trying to get a local EM "genius" to help with this too...

Bally_1976_Aladdin_s_Castle_Schematics-HQ-2_(resized).jpg
Bally_1976_Aladdin_s_Castle_Schematics-HQ-1_(resized).jpg

#23 4 years ago

Hi hisokajp
NEW topics are much more attractive to pinsider (than 2 years old stuff) --- want to open a NEW topic - and give an nice description of the fault (?)

"Ball not advancing properly" can mean different things - always / sometimes ? Can You start a new game ? Is first ball kicked over to the Shooter-Alley ? You play and loose the ball ? Same ball given ? Bonus is counted down ? Score-Motor runs forever ? Score-Motor does not run ? Outhole-Relay pulls-in ? Bonus is stepped up to position "One Bonus" ?
Many types of faulty reaction - many different causes.

Your pictures (post-22) are nice - but when I download them and look at: No better quality than the ipdb-schema.
Want (?) to take pictures like My example-JPG shows: Left to right is everything A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H, J on the picture - this fills the camera-lens completely - and top-down: Whatever gets on the picture. Then do a second picture - top-down a bit overlapping with the first picture - and a third one etc.
I easily can turn around a bit, I can make one picture a bit smaller or bigger, I can put together many pictures (JPG's or PDF's), I can clean out dirtmarks --- but I cannot improve the resolution ...
Greetings Rolf

zAladdin_s_Castle_pinside_ex_(resized).jpg

#24 4 years ago

Hi hisokajp
You must NOT make pictures of Your schema --- I can look up in the ipdb-schema.
But You should make a "more detailled description of the fault". Greetings Rolf

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