good - no rush, bad - bad luck, the original fault most likely is caused at another place, we will do other tests (thats why I asked for cheap, Edison-Type bedroom lights). To recapitulate - an Normally-Closed Switch on a relay does open when the relay pulls. When the switch faulty is always closed: The reason may be "A" the contact-points do not separate - or then "B" one of the studs is bent making faulty contact - or then "C" a drop of solder has fallen there - or then "D" a doghair crap of wire is there or then (very theoretically) "E" a preowner jammed, screwed in a too big screw - the screw has contact with the blades, bakelite is damaged - I show this in the first JPG (its a part of one of Your pictures).
In Your pictures (post-43) of course I cannot see "D, E" - well, You have sneaked-in a stripe of paper, I do not see a drop of solder.
in a working pin - the Credit-Counter, how does it work --- when it shows "Zero" we cannot start a new game by pressing the Credit-Button (unless we have made the little cheating - set to Free-Play). When the Counter shows 1,2,3 ... 15 we can press the Credit-Button - the pin starts a new game, does the resetting etc. - and by starting the new game: The Credit-Counter is stepped down one step.
Thrown-in coins may be reflected - when the coin is accepted: AA starts just a game, BB starts a game and steps up the Credit-Counter (usually one step), CC-01 does not start a game - only steps up the Credit-Counter - usually 2,3,4,5 steps - CC-02 seldom more steps, CC-03 seldom only one step. The ipdb-manual claims "CC-03" - in the schematics I believe to read "BB" (?)
When I work on a pin having some faults: I like to have the Credit-Counter on about 5,6,7,8 Credits visible - I press the Credit-Button, the pin steps down one step and starts a new game. I believe "the beginning of Your post-43" is just an recapitulation of "original fault" - temporarily not doing this "original fault" ?????
The "another thing worth mentioning" is well worth mentioning --- position 7 and 8 - do we talk about post-35, first picture, the Coin Credit Adj. positions 7, 8 ? If "Yes" this would be a very strange fault.
See the second JPG - marked "brown": Hi-Score-Adjustment for "Replays by the Score-Drums" --- see the second picture in Your post-29, on the left: There is the Adjustment stuff. I believe to see "Wire-RED" is plugged-in - pull it out and store it away in a drilled hole in the wood - then start a new game "original fault - Yes or No ?" --- can You "make Replays by the Score-Drums - Yes or No ?"
I am totally unhappy with the color of the wire, post-32, second JPG, second coin chute adj --- wire-color-maybe-white-black (or gray-black ?) - the schematics says wire-color-yellow-black coming from "Outer-blade on the three-bladed Switch on second Coin Chute" - please look at the second Coin Chute switch - do You see the same color as on the adj-plug ? In that same picture I see stored away a wire-yellow-black (near the Coin Credit Adj) --- has the "Outer-blade on the three-bladed Switch on second Coin Chute" THIS wire-yellow-black soldered-on ? Greetings Rolf 0Aladdins-Castle-Work-19 (resized).jpg0Aladdins-Castle-pinside-pic-A (resized).jpg