(Topic ID: 235022)

Bally 6803 Club - All Welcome

By gweempose

5 years ago


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  • 864 posts
  • 151 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 18 days ago by Mathazar
  • Topic is favorited by 66 Pinsiders

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#595 1 year ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Just got a EBC. My first 6803, is this game supposed to have linear flippers?

Note: Bally Eight Ball Champ had OEM flippers that where leftovers from
------ their home pinball economy line of pinballs. The bottom arch is plastic,
------ and the flipper links where plastic and riveted to the plunger [like Stern classic].
------ The flipper links would break, causing operators to upgrade to the 1978 style flippers.

#597 1 year ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

BTW, Retro Refurbs is working on EBC cab decals, possibly some artwork for the cab front as well.

I had to hand paint a refurbish EBC many years ago. The decals would be welcomed.

#600 1 year ago
Quoted from dluth:

Are there any Blackwater 100 owners who can confirm the coil they have on their lower left flipper? The manual says it should be an A-24-570/34-3600 and I bought a new one, replacing the AQ-500-500/34-4500 that was there (and had a broken wire so I just replaced it).
I’m really struggling to make the right ramp, even after a flipper rebuild with new parts.

Do you have the E.O.S.switch wires in the correct positions?
Does the E.O.S.switch open/close correctly? Proper tension?
E.O.s.switches are prone to fail.

#607 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball-Poppy:

I re-soldered the molex connections on the back of the Power module board.
With everything connected:
I get the following readings on the power board:
DC
TP1- 500 mv
TP2- 180.9
TP3- 239.4
TP4- 42.28
TP5- 14.32
AC
TP6- 10.49
TP7- 10.55
TP8- 6.40
TP9- 6.37
MPU
TP1-280mv
TP3-14.4
TP4- 4.48
However as before when i unplug J1 from the MPU TP1 on power module jumps from 500mv to 5.228 VDC
So now I am leaning toward a bad voltage regulator????? or do i still need to revisit solder joints???

If +5 volt is good with out cpu board then, a component is bad.
1) remove all ic's that are socketed.
1a) test system... does +5 volts collapse?
1b) if so, a component or two are bad.
1c)) if +5 volt returns then, a bad socketed ic is most likely bad.
2) dirty trick is to cut the +5 volt traces at different points to isolate bad part/s.

#615 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball-Poppy:

The game now boots up and I can play all 4 players..... Whoo hoo!!!!

3 months later
#673 1 year ago
Quoted from MoSeS_1592:

Hey guys,
I have an Escape From the Lost World and want to swap out the left flipper coil for something less powerful. I still have the stock yellow "A 24-570 / 34-3600" and it has way too much power even with the EOS switch adjusted as much as possible. A coil with literally half the power would be adequate since there are no ramps and all targets are in the middle 3rd of the playfield. Which coil number (or sleeve color) should I consider?
Thanks!

Standard Bally flipper coil. AQ 25-500/34-4500

2 weeks later
#682 1 year ago
Quoted from Charles_Kline:

This was recently posted locally. Quite a project!
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

They had the exact same game in California that went for over $1000.00 dollars...
It was ridiculous.

#684 1 year ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Still has the auction sticker, where is that from?

Captains Auction. They had three Bally Party Animals at the auction.
Two where "decent" so to speak... but this one was total parts game..
Everyone was biding online... Hardly nobody was there to see what they where biding on.

#686 1 year ago
Quoted from Charles_Kline:

Yep it’s a Captains warehouse sticker.
Knowing how captains describes games I’m sure the buyer was very disappointed in this.
Was it in pieces at the auction? Was this from the Banning auction?

The game was presented as you see it with the backbox down...
I could left it up and see the damage. No black strap.
No Banning as far as I know.

#695 1 year ago
Quoted from Charles_Kline:

Got it for $300.
It’s rough rough but I love a challenge and basket case projects.
Both displays look trashed.
The MPU is going to need header work with how the harness is soldered directly to the board.
Check out the service outlet, it’s a UK game. It’s got the Europe cord on it as well.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Finally, congratulations ...much better price than at the auction. I assume
you did not have to pay a buyers premium and such.

#709 1 year ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

I replaced both the 74LS373 and the MC14515

74HC373 high speed, CMOS circuitry. schematics calls for 74HC373.
74LS373 Low-power Schottky.

When the latch-enable (LE) input is high, the Q
outputs follow the data (D) inputs. When LE is low,
the Q outputs are latched at the logic levels of the D inputs.

Check C2 if bad? Check R107?

#714 1 year ago
Quoted from Charles_Kline:

Was Party Animal originally a silkscreened backglass or a translight?

Answer: Translight. I believe Party Animal has no mirroring...so no silkscreen glass.
--------- The game's backglass is more like William's Funhouse.

1 week later
#719 1 year ago
Quoted from Boat:

Hey 6803 pros , I have a Bally black belt and I’m not getting 43vdc on the power board . I tested all continuity and I’m getting proper AC from the transformer .
I replaced the bridge rectifier. The varistor is the one thing I haven’t replaced, question though. I’m not getting any resistance or continuity through it. Should I be getting something in my ohms from the multimeter? Or is it actually shorted fried?

Start at:
1) J5-2 [49 VAC]
2) FU1 [ 7Amp fuse ]
3) [49 VAC] at input to bridge.
4) output from bridge [ R1 600 Ohm 10W ]
5) to TP4 +43 VDC
Check all continuity... broken trace pads etc....
Notes:
Unplug all outputs on power module!!!.
remove Varistor, test voltage.. does 49VAC become present at bridge input?
If not, something is wrong with input AC voltage...
remove 600 Ohm resistor does 49VAC, 43VDC become present?
If so, test 600 Ohm resistor.. could be bad.

2 months later
#759 10 months ago
Quoted from Player1:

Hello all,
I seem to be having trouble finding the following two posts for a BTC. They are missing and I can't seem to find part numbers in the parts catalogs for 1986 or other years. Anyone have any idea what the part numbers were or if there are comparable posts still available? TIA for any help.
[quoted image]

Nickel Post #0360-00733-00XF
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4435

#762 10 months ago
Quoted from VR4G63:

Are these wires always cut like this? This goes to the mpu. Can not see where the other end would be.

Answer: No.
CJ-2 [cpu Digital Display Output]
{cut strobes PA05,PA06,PA07}
-----------------------------------------

Quoted from VR4G63:

Do the 3 ground wires in the next picture go to this?

Answer: Sure.

#764 10 months ago
Quoted from VR4G63:

Ok thank you. Did someone add this connector then? Pics attached. [quoted image][quoted image]

Answer: Yes.

2 weeks later
#777 9 months ago
Quoted from Blackghost4:

I just picked up this good condition rare Black Belt that they only made 600. Just shopped it but I still have to LED it and fix a display.
[quoted image][quoted image]

The game is electrically flawed. My friend had a one, bran new from the factory,
it caught fire and melted a bunch of plastic pieces. I hope the one you have
is amended.

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