(Topic ID: 235022)

Bally 6803 Club - All Welcome

By gweempose

5 years ago


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  • 868 posts
  • 153 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by cws204
  • Topic is favorited by 69 Pinsiders

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#263 3 years ago
Quoted from ChadH:

I was doing battery replacement on my Party Animal... and it lost all it's settings.
However, when I scroll through the adjustments, the settings are all over the place like they were all scrambled with garbage data.
Is there a way to "reset to factory default settings" ?

Yes.

Hit "Test", to enter operator mode.
Hit "A" until "Feature Options" is displayed.
Hit Enter.
It will say "Reset Factory Is".
Hit 6, then 5, then Enter.
Hit "Game" to return to attract mode. You'll know it worked because it will take longer than usual to reach attract mode, and the display will flicker slightly as the computer clears the memory (this is normal).

#270 3 years ago

I needed a new bracket for my Strange Science and I used a WPC one from Mantis: http://www.mantisamusements.com/bracketsupport.htm

The "WPC and WPC-95 Playfield holders: Style 2 higher of the two" worked and I think I had to just slightly grind it to fit.

4 months later
#307 3 years ago
Quoted from statictrance:

Hey guys - New to the club with a rare City Slicker that I want to give the full treatment to. Unfortunately, seems the answers on controlled LEDs are everything from 'yeah, you're good to go' to 'you're going to have a bad time regardless'. I saw years ago they Seigecraft tried to make a board, but even those were between super helpful and making it worse.
Anyway - I tried outfitting with Non-Ghosting ones, and while most of the machine looks great (both A and B sides) - I have a few right in the middle of the playfield strobing like crazy. Is there anything you can do to remedy this? (ex - resistors like classic Bally? Replace with a better socket? anything?). They really bring out the color and it's in awesome shape, so I'd really like to not revert back to the incandescents.
Thanks in advance - glad to finally join the club.

I used Comet's Ultimate Optix Flux bulbs in my Strange Science and they looked great with no flickering.

5 months later
#433 2 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

I think these are activated on the EOS not a cab switch

Correct and good advice to check the EOS first (larger EOS on the lower right flipper) and double check actual wiring to the upper flipper solenoid as it's not uncommon for a solder joint to break.

7 months later
#482 2 years ago
Quoted from Axl:

My Hardbody machine has started to score 5000 points when i press the right flipper button. Not every time, it is a bit random.
where do i start to look?
Looking at the schematics, should i check the switches here?
[quoted image]
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Bally_Hardbody_Tech_Chart.pdf

It could also be the vibration of the flipper actuating another switch in an unrelated row/column due to vibration. Step 1 is to determine which switch hits award 5000 points. Then check the switch adjustment of those.

#485 2 years ago
Quoted from jturner:

I can pull mine off and measure it if you still need it - wish I had one of the new iphones with the 3D scanner!

You can make 3D scans with pretty much any phone using photogrammetry

1 month later
#511 2 years ago

That is a diode, not a capacitor. The transistor is the most likely component, you could also change the diode while you're in there just in case since it's so easy.

#521 2 years ago
Quoted from casher2006:

Thanks! I will check the diodes on those lamps. Any Idea about the random lamps that wont turn on? The bulbs are good. Is that usually a lamp driver issue or something on the playfield?

It's fairly common for the 2N5060 lamp driver transistors on the MPU to blow if you have ruled out any wiring issues.

1 month later
#530 2 years ago

To expand upon the above:

-Hit "Test", to enter operator mode.
-Hit "A" until "Feature Options" is displayed.
-Hit Enter.
-It will say "Reset Factory Is".
-Hit 6, then 5, then Enter.
-Hit "Game" to return to attract mode. You'll know it worked because it will take longer than usual to reach attract mode, and
the display will flicker slightly as the computer clears the memory (this is normal).

1 month later
#537 1 year ago
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:

Does anyone have a fuse chart for Truck Stop? Just picked one up that boots and plays but has acid damage on the MPU and no displays, tested with a second display and no dice, so thinking maybe it’s a blow fuse

Inkochnito to the rescue

http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Bally_Truck_Stop_Tech_Chart.pdf

2 months later
#572 1 year ago

Looks awesome. I don't own a 6803 game anymore but they will always have a special place to me and I love seeing the support. I like the leds directly behind the fuses too

3 months later
#614 1 year ago

If you wiggle or reseat J2 or the other display connectors do you get any change in activity? These are notorious for failing so check that.

1 month later
#626 1 year ago
Quoted from Joshjowen:

Best and also quickest way to fix a pin that has broke off 6893 board? J4-15. I've read that it can be a pain in this board. My board skills are minimal but I'm pretty handy
Im fixing up an Atlantis I got my hands on and have been able to work through most of the problems although a few remain in which I'll start separate threads on.
Thanks!
[quoted image]

You could replace just the one pin, but you're better off just replacing the entire header while you're at it. You'll need a solder sucker or a vacuum desoldering pump if you have access to one, much easier than the solder sucker.

1 month later
#643 1 year ago

Yep - just clip it off. No need to desolder.

2 weeks later
#663 1 year ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

I do not own an official 6803 game, but I've made a 6803 test rig for myself.
To test the 6803 mpu input/output (switches, lamps, solenoids, sound, display), the sound boards and power supply.
I had 5 mpu boards that needed fixing and 3 power supply boards.
Recently a display set and sound board came into my possesion to complete the board set.
I already had a wire bundle or two from some other games which were parted out.
I build the test board from scratch and learned from some misstakes I made in the wiring.
Does this make me a member of the club?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

You are absolutely a member. Without a game you've already provided a ton of help and documentation to the community. Thank you

4 weeks later
#679 1 year ago
Quoted from Rolpa:

It appears Weebly has an mpu replacement:
https://nvram.weebly.com/bally-6803-mpu.html
Based on the limited reading I've done, the 6803 system was somewhat based on the -35 stuff. Maybe one of those power supplies are compatible?
I just checked and it appears they have a replacement for the cheap squeak too.

Weebly (@barakandl) also makes the 6803 power supply board: https://nvram.weebly.com/bally-6803-power-supply.html

1 month later
#723 1 year ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Advice needed for switched lamps LED options. Do 6803 games need any special drivers so lamps don't strobe? This is for EBC.
Thanks!

I used these. Might be overkill for 6803 but they worked well and looked great https://www.cometpinball.com/products/1flux-bulbs?_pos=1&_sid=778c893c3&_ss=r

1 week later
#736 1 year ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

The no coils was blown 5 amp fuse. Don't know what caused it to blow.
Despite having a NOS MPU with a NVRAM installed, the game is not keeping memory and/or settings. Many times it doesn't boot on the first power up, usually the second. Will the score from the previous game be erased upon changing any settings with the keypad? Not that it matters, just trying to figure it out.

Try a reset just to rule out any data corruption in the nvram:

Hit "Test", to enter operator mode.
Hit "A" until "Feature Options" is displayed.
Hit Enter.
It will say "Reset Factory Is".
Hit 6, then 5, then Enter.
Hit "Game" to return to attract mode. You'll know it worked because it will take longer than usual to reach attract mode, and the display will flicker slightly as the computer clears the memory (this is normal).

#741 1 year ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I just realized that this game doesn't have alpha numeric displays, therefore this won't work.

Ahh I didn't realize that. Check the manual, there may be another way to do a factory settings reset.

4 months later
#794 7 months ago
Quoted from JBtheAVguy:

Anyone have any updated info on where to buy a 6803 trough opto board set for a Blackwater 100? Or maybe a parts kit to rebuild original boards?

If you don't want to wait: http://www.greatlakesmodular.com/products/pinball/6803tbs.html

#797 7 months ago
Quoted from dddanielll:

Unfortunately he is no longer making boards. The only repros I've been able to find are from Pindorabox and the quality is poor.

Ahh thanks for the info. I have not personally ordered from them.

If the new boards you're testing are from Dumbass then I'm sure they will be amazing! If not from Dumbass, that's ok too

1 month later
#811 6 months ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

Why not a nvram 6116?
No more battery needed, no more leaking risk.

Especially since it's already socketed. Every 6803 game should be using it.

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