Quoted from thirdedition:

I asked this in the Escape From the Lost World Club, but I figured I would ask here too.
Has anyone had issues with broken flipper bushings with the linear flippers? I've replaced all of the bushings on Escape because they crack on the top first, then eventually the bottom. I'm going to re-read vid's guide to make sure I'm not missing something, but I don't know why this is happening. I've rebuild flippers on other games and I haven't had this problem.

Quoted from chrismcb:

For one thing my bar is welded, so there is no "bolt" head on the other side.

Quoted from alveolus:

When I first fired up the machine I was getting all sorts of stuck switch errors and had to cut off several capacitors. What is the consensus on replacing these?
So far I haven’t noticed any issues.

Quoted from jcar302:

First off, what is the bulb near the relay under the playfield? Seems kinda odd.

Joe

Quoted from jcar302:

So glad you mentioned this, about 2 hours ago I put an led in it. Didn't try the game since.

Quoted from vassq:

I'm in the club.
I have a Special Force and a
party animal . Currently neither one is set up because I set other games to sell in the limited space I have.
I dont think I will part with special force.
Party animal is fun too but I will probably trade or sell it.

Quoted from sixtyfourbits:

So my new to me escape from the lost world has me stumped, and I’m hoping someone here might be able to offer ideas on what to maybe check.
Both LEDs on the kicker sensor board are working now, but the problem remains. On start up, it flashes multi ball 2, and the multiball coil Keeps Constantly firing. The only time it stops is if I unplug the sensor board that works with the led board. I took a picture to show which board I mean. Has anyone here dealt with something similar?
Another odd piece to the puzzle, is it did work once, in between this constantly happening. My son and I played several games perfectly. Then the next time u started it up, it happened again and hasn’t stopped.
Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from ChadH:

I am testing a Party Animal... in switch test mode... and as I test the various switches, often the game is detecting another switch along with the one I am testing.
It always seems to be another switch in the same ROW as the one I am testing.
It doesn't always happen and it is not consistent. The only consistency is that the phantom switch is somewhere on the same ROW in the matrix.
This is happening on multiple rows.
Examples:
Press Right Outlane and Top Left Saucer sometimes triggers.
Press Right Return and Right Sling or Pigout U sometimes triggers.
Press Right Sling and Pigout U or Tune 2 Middle sometimes triggers.
Press Left Sling and Pigout T sometimes triggers.
Press Toad and Right Outlane sometimes triggers.
Press Rebound and sometimes Right Outlane triggers.
Since it's all over the place, it leads me to think that it's not just one diode. Is there something bigger to look at when this type of situation happens?

Quoted from ChadH:

Yes. 11 switches in the matrix have capacitors on Party Animal.
The schematic says "ALL CAPACITORS ARE .05 MF"
I have some capacitors on hand that are .047 uF (which is the same as 47 nF). I think these are the correct kind to use... can anyone confirm?

Quoted from ChadH:

I'm hoping someone can help me out here.
It's the Switch Matrix on a Party Animal.
I posted earlier about how it's behaving oddly. Pressing a switch will sometimes (not always) trigger another switch (or two or three) in the same ROW.
At first, I thought it would be the capacitors that are on some of the switches. They get old... they dry out.
Correct me if I am wrong, but those capacitors are there so when a switch is VERY QUICKLY pressed, that the CPU will still have time to detect that switch. Which means that removing those caps (cutting one leg) should allow the Switch Matrix to continue to function while losing some sensitivity on the switches with caps.
I have cut a leg on all switches with caps. However, my phantom switches are still occurring all over. Which means it has to be bad diodes, right? But my problem is, for example, I press the Left Outlane switch and it sometimes triggers the Mushroom switch. So I replace the diode on BOTH of those switches... and... the problem persists. Ugh!
Is there more to the story of this 6803 switch matrix? Is there another place I should be looking?
My game is triggering phantom switches all over the place. It seems like its not "a couple bad diodes".
Anyone been down this road before and know how to resolve this issue?
Thanks!

Quoted from newbieinKC:

I don't know if anybody else feels this way, but I would try a squirt of electrical contact cleaner on the pot when the machine is off and adjust the pot on the sound board up and down before letting it dry (or blowing it dry with canned air). My Squawk and Talk had some "dead spots" in the volume pot that cleaned right up and life is good now. Could also be the main volume pot if both sound effects and speech are affected.

Quoted from RONR11:

Could all 3 go bad at same time as they all 3 do it

Quoted from crahotrod:

Hi all have a question, I have a Motordome that when you turn it on the flippers will work when you hit the flipper button anybody have any ideas where to look Thanks Chris

Quoted from crahotrod:

Hi yes while still in attract mode

Quoted from Inkochnito:

Yes, I can confirm this.
The relay is there, just like the older AS-2518 (6800) games.
The 6803 game a really a 6800 game with the cpu, solenoid and lamp driver board all packed into one board.
The circuits are (nearly) the same way build.
The multiplexing of the cpu makes it different.[quoted image]

Quoted from Quench:

Yes the relay is indicated by the dotted line box marked as K1. Coil at pins 7 to 8, two switches at pins 3 to 5 and 4 to 6.

Quoted from Inkochnito:

The schematic for the AS-2518-22 relay isn't much clearer....
[quoted image]

Quoted from Rossc:

No, i suspect that one of the three ca3081(transistor array for 7 solenoids) has shorted for the middle bumper, so i need to work out which chip and which legs control said bumper

Quoted from Rossc:

Thanks for the replys changed u19 out but with no change sadly, Back looking i go

Quoted from V8haha:

The EOS does have a capacitor.
Can it be ran without?
(Sorry I’m new to 6803 and still learning i had a roll over switch capacitor go bad. i cut it off and the switch has been working fine ever since.)
I ordered capacitors for this game but i received very very small ones to small for the switched however it was the same part number.
Anyone know a good site to buy the correct capacitors? I’ve tried looking them up on pinball life and Marco with no luck.

Quoted from Quench:

The EOS switch capacitor reduces the arcing (and consequently electrical noise) that burns the switch contacts. As a result, the switch lasts longer.

Quoted from Goonie:

Greetings fellow 6803 fans. Are their any Blackwater 100 owners out there that can look at something for me? If i read the schematics right, several (though not all) of the playfield switches on this game have capacitors on them. I am tearing into a game now and none of the switches on mine have them. The switches all look original, and I can see no sign of any having been clipped off. As long as I have this playfield out and in easy workable condition, I was wondering if I should put them on. Would anyone mind checking theirs for me? Per the manual, the drop targets, rain, fastline, top right/left loop, cold, wet, rocky rapids, and a couple others should all have them. It doesn't look like outlane rollovers or slingshots do.
Thanks!
Aaron

Quoted from Quench:

You mean 0.047uF caps

Quoted from Chalkey:

Sanity check: you put your initials in on D&D when you get a high score but it never displays the high scores or initials
?

Quoted from Chalkey:

The sound on my D&D is really scratchy throughout the entire volume range. I've done a sound board cap kit and just tried replacing the main speaker and no joy. Is there a particular part of the sound board or anything else that might be suspect?

Quoted from Lovef2k:My EBC has a NOS MPU with a NVRAM installed. Tonight when powering on, it went back to 3 ball game, was on 5 and the credits went back to zero. I don't know where to start. Since I got the game, it takes at least two power ups before booting. The MPU flashes 8 times and doesn't go in attract the first one or two throws of the power switch. This is my first 6803 so i guess it's time to read up on Pinwiki.

Quoted from Lovef2k:

I admit that I didn't wait very long between power ups after boot failure. Could this have caused memory loss?

Quoted from Chicanelane:

A new MPU and new power supply were installed. I am getting 42.5 volts to each flipper, but all flippers are dead. This is my only 6803, so I'm not overly familiar. All settings have been gone through with the 6803 keypad, and everything is set correctly. I am a little stumped. Every other coil/pop bumper/kicker/drop target resetting, etc., is working perfectly. The flippers are the only problem. A ground issue, possibly? Any help or advice would be appreciated.
Thank you all.