(Topic ID: 235022)

Bally 6803 Club - All Welcome

By gweempose

4 years ago

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#91 3 years ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

I have some nice Tech Charts for these 6803 games.
Everything in nice columns and lamp names alphabeticaly.
Here is the link to the Motordome chart:
You can find it in the Bally section or the Tech Charts section.

Your charts are excellent. Nice job and thanks for the work that went into that. Nice website, too.

I have one 6803 game, Dungeons & Dragons. Also has the topper.

Don't believe the card at the bottom, I have it set up as pay to play.

It's a fun game, it's needed some work (mostly on the boards), and a coil and diode here and there, but it plays great. Rebuilt all of the flippers, including new bats, about two months ago.
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#93 3 years ago

I really want a better manual. It is a copy, and it is fine, until I get to the schematics section, the section I need the most

Just figures

#99 3 years ago
Quoted from JiePieWie:

Which section do you mean? I also have a seperate manual with all the technical drawings. They are partly A3 and will be scanned somewhere this week. Hopefully

The entire tech section (schematics, designation lists, etc.)

Whoever scanned that section of the manual must have been on the last can of a twelve pack

Very unreadable. Useless, basically. I would love to get an original manual, where the schematics actually fold out, but that's not happening

#102 3 years ago

Thank you both. I was very fortunate back in early 2007, when I found an actual bonafide original Fireball II manual. And that was after I found a very very good high quality copy. The only difference between the original and the copy are the foldouts.

Both very readable though.

But this D&D copy and everyone I have found....


#106 3 years ago
Quoted from alveolus:

Any hints on how to check the data lines.


you can start there, if you already have not done so. Peter's site is pretty good as well. Eight Ball Champ seems to be a popular 6803 era pin. Some of it you can do with a DMM, but a logic probe is better, and knowledge of using a scope would be a plus.

Plus a test bench setup as described at that site. I'm not there yet myself, but you can get by (sort of) with just a DMM and a logic probe. But as others have pointed out (in my XPIN problem thread) you can't beat a good testing setup.

Hope that helps somewhat.

#111 3 years ago

Asked this in the D&D club thread, but want to ask here as well.

Is anybody using newer non-HV displays in their 6803 games? If so, which brand did you go with?

#113 3 years ago
Quoted from Kawydud:

I installed green led displays in my Black Water.

I edited my post. Sorry I forgot. Which brand did you go with?

btw, nice avatar


#115 3 years ago


4 months later
#131 3 years ago

I don't like the placement of the backbox bulb in this game. I have considered using LED strips as well. If that were real glass instead of a translite, the light might diffuse across the entirety of the display more efficiently. I suppose it could be worse, too.

I put in a cooler bulb, but am also considering something smaller to get the bulb a bit further away from the translite.

That's nice that you got one with a topper. Those seem to be sought after, but are hard to come by. Mine has the topper as well.

1 week later
#134 3 years ago

Nice job. I would reinforce it.

4 weeks later
#153 3 years ago

I replaced the original with this, back in 2009.

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#157 3 years ago
Quoted from PinballRusch:

I’m struggling with this too. I have the parts book, but they list “13-digit” part numbers for everything and none of those numbers come up in the online parts stores like Planetry, Pinball life, Marco, etc. Is there a conversation I need to do or only search on specific digits? Most parts I’m looking for I think are pretty common; flipper rebuild, switches, and ball guides. What are you experienced guys doing with these long 13 digit hyphenated Bally parts book numbers?

You might try googling those part numbers, maybe adding pinball or Bally or whatever before the part number. I have found that for sites like Marco, it's best to search by game and see what you get.

#170 3 years ago

Also, check the frames mounted to the playfield, where the flipper mechanism's are mounted. A loose or stripped screw can cause funky issues with flipper action, including them getting stuck in the open position above the playfield. I recently had this issue with the lower right flipper on my D&D. I had a spare frame mount, swapped it out, and no problems since.

Also, the mount with the stripped screw hole.... I reversed the mounting hardware on that frame and now I have a spare left side flipper playfield frame.

#174 3 years ago

Since we're talking about flippers and ball action coming off of the flippers, I am curious to know if anybody else is having launch issues off of a stand-up target hit from either flipper?

Sometimes, in our D&D, a drop target hit off of the flippers sends the ball flying up over the plastic on the sides of the playfield and drains the ball.

#185 3 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

I dont have airball issues on my D&D. Was going to say standup backing is worn but turns out mine are about completely gone! Maybe uneven inserts?

The inserts are fine relative to the stand-up targets. The inserts I replaced were not those in front of either bank of targets. The arrow inserts going into both lair traps, and up the ramp for the skill shot are the inserts I replaced. While I don't need to clear coat it (although that is a good suggestion that leads to a lot of work ), I have kept it clean and waxed. I rebuilt all three flippers late last summer, and that's when the airball phenom took off....

edit to add:

interestingly enough, at various and sundry times the ball launches to the left side of the game and rolls down the drain alley so hard, it bounces up in front of the flippers.....


3 weeks later
#207 3 years ago
Quoted from buffaloatx:

Thanks quench This board has always had some issues with "scratchy" sound and sound that dropped out from time to time, most of which I contributed to the POT being "bad".

I know it's a different game, but my D&D has always sounded a bit scratchy, even after new capacitors. That old needle across a bad spot on the vinyl album sound. Not overall, but at times when it's doing the match option for a credit at the end of a game.

During play it sounds fine. The boards in the backbox all look good. I had the 6803 benched by eldoradogames (my XPIN issue), replaced all caps on all boards, and basically rebuilt the SDB.

If that's the only time I hear some scratching in the sound, I'm not going to worry about it. I'm sure there will be enough issues to deal with going into the future anyway

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