(Topic ID: 235022)
Linked Games
Atlantis
Bally, 1989-
Beat the Clock
Bally, 1985
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Black Belt
Bally, 1986
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Blackwater 100
Bally, 1988
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City Slicker
Bally, 1987
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Dungeons & Dragons
Bally, 1987
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Eight Ball Champ
Bally, 1985
-
Escape from the Lost World
Bally, 1987
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3 months later
This bracket on the upper flipper of my City Slicker somehow broke, and I cannot seem to find a part number for it and I’m about to put in an order at PBR.
Any idea what it is?
Also this is the first time this game has been shopped in probably its whole life. Someone put this thick-ass grease on ONLY the ball release solenoid which was kinda wild.
Anyone have suggestions on recommended parts to order for a full shop of this game?
1A056183-5933-4FDD-8151-A9EDCA2E91DC.jpegC2FF0C1B-FB9E-450E-B37A-5CA1C2F8122D.jpeg 4 weeks later
Quoted from Jason43:So is there anyone around that works on 6803's? I picked up an escape from the lost world over the weekend. It was advertised as working until it recently started blowing the 1A fuse under the playfield. I'm in the middle of testing coils and diodes, but noticed that machine won't boot at all. No error codes on the CPU, no flicker on the led at start up. Test points show 15 and 5 volts at the CPU test points. Displays are blank, except for a 1 on the first digit of the third display. Unfortunately, I think the previous owner may have done more damage trying to repair the blown fuse issue and decided to sell the machine when he couldn't fix it and my expertise in board repair ends here.
That sounds like a short to me. On other games when you blow playfield fuses a lot it tends to follow from a short
1 month later
Quoted from caldog101:Sorry I should have put the full name instead of acronym. The game I am asking for help with is escape from the lost world.
Yes Escape From the Lost World is one of those games that people don’t usually acronym, it seems most people just use Lost World even though it could refer to Bally’s Lost World. Not sure.
I’m willing to bet that coil is shorted so someone cut it off instead of replacing it. You’ll probably need to buy some wire to extend the cut wires. Get shrink tube to color code them again. Compare wiring to your other coils. Should be similar with one color difference (solenoids are usually limited to 2 in a circuit I believe? So only one main color will change) it’s not a horrible first repair to make if everything else works! A flipper rebuild should have everything you need including new coils
1 week later
Quoted from JiePieWie:Hello to all! Last weekend I bought a 6803: Dungeon & Dragons which has been in a cellar for more than 16 years. No topper unfortunately but it still works
I do have one question: how do I remove the backbox so I can transport this machine? Anybody has some guide/step-by-step instructions how to get this machine ready for transportation? Any other tips what to take into account before moving?
Take DOZENS of pictures of the backbox and the connectors! I actually didn’t have any reference for my City Slicker, I used a grainy picture off IPDB to connect it together (it was in pieces when I got it) I believe the head should be on hinges, so you can just hinge it down. Put cardboard across the playfield glass to protect the side rails from being dented by the head swinging down on them.
There are more threads and guides out there for moving the game! I will search, you can also go to the little search glass at the top of the webpage and find other threads about transporting games.
3 weeks later
11 months later
Quoted from gutz:I'm looking for a standard width lockdown bar!
It took me ages to find a lockdown bar for my City Slicker. What a total bee-atch.
You’d think with the hate 6803s get you’d find more parted out!
Quoted from Taygeta:I just picked up a Hardbody and both upper flippers flutter upon being hit once. Doesn’t appear to hold a low power? Have pics of the wiring, anyone have any idea where to look to fix this?
[quoted image][quoted image]
You lucky devil! Hardbody’s are getting so difficult to find, been searching for a while now!
1 year later
Does anyone have a fuse chart for Truck Stop? Just picked one up that boots and plays but has acid damage on the MPU and no displays, tested with a second display and no dice, so thinking maybe it’s a blow fuse
Quoted from transprtr4u:Try pinball rebel... they have all charts for games to reproduce ... or check IPDB and see if the manual is download able
The manual sucks for some reason!
Thank you! Much appreciated snakesnsparklers for finding that.
Inkochnito you are a legend for making these!. I’m printing this out and slapping it in my game.
The fuses I suspected appear to be the issue. It doesn’t fit in the holder. I’ll check both F8 and F2 shortly
HOLY PINGODS! IT LIVES
I CANNOT BELIEVE THIS!!! Played hours and hours of this game last night! Truck Stop is extremely underrated.
Needs a new display, and it’s missing some plastics, but otherwise it’s a great playing machine. Really happy to bring it back from the dead.
A32D7C45-B05D-4059-B537-7BF97A344251.jpeg
The rubber chart on Marco is not correct. Can any Truck Stop owner please post pics of the rubbers?
1 week later
Truck Stop was booting. It would turn on and show garbage rapidly scrolling along the display. After a few minutes it would suddenly stop, all the digits would lock on and then the game would fully boot. Played it for a few days just fine using this method
Now I cleaned the acid damage up, removed the battery and it seems stuck on the garbage. It won’t fully boot anymore.
Any idea what may be the cause of this? I don’t know if this is MPU related or Power Supply related
297FD6C4-D84C-4654-9DB7-DCCBDB578051.jpeg 2 weeks later
Quoted from Tallon:That board is mounted sideways. When you cleaned the battery damage, did you change the sockets under the battery?
I did not, I reseated them and they seemed fine to me. I don’t have the equipment or skill to change sockets, honestly.
1 week later
Quoted from Mik-ReadingUK:I don't know if you can add service credits but you can put it into free play mode, under Basic Options go to Free Play and press 6,5, Enter, Game.
I have mine on location, and they have a service credit audit, and it’s populated, so it MUST have a service credit ability
1 week later
Quoted from slochar:You would think so based on that for sure. I'd say it's likely just one of the buttons on the keypad.... have you tried all the ones that don't enter adjust/audit mode?
What specific game?
You’re right, it’s the 1 and/or 2 button adds a service coin, not a credit, but a coin. So if you keep pressing it, it will eventually add up to credits.
1 month later
The 190vDC on my machine is only reading 130v and drops rapidly. Displays are strobing and die right out.
Is the easy fix simply replacing the large capacitor?
If so, what is an exact replacement?
I have a spare power supply in it right now but I’d like to buy a few caps and replace them on my 6803s
5 months later
Wow! Does anyone in America fix 6803 boards? I need my power supply rebuild, a soundboard rebuild and 2 MPUs worked on. These are in my arcade currently, so I prefer to have a professional go through them to make sure they can handle being on 12 hours a day 363 days out of the year.
Quoted from Tallon:Alot of people do. What is it you're looking to have done and more importantly, why? Power supply, Something wrong or just bulletproofing? Are the sound boards working or dead and what sound boards. What are the MPUs doing? is there a specific problem or are they just nor booting and any acid damage?
Not trying to sound like I'm picking on you, but your vague decsriptions would have me telling that person I need the whole game here then as I don't know if its board or game related. I find the 6803 a very robust board set and its interesting to see the direction bally was going. Not saying it's better then system 11 but the a/b lamp matrix and the individual flash lamp fuses would have saved more then a couple playfield inserts in a few system 11's (Looking at you Transporter the Rescue). The 6803 Pinwiki does a pretty good job walking you thru problems and solutions. the sound card section specifically talks about the DAC failures and how to bullet proof. At the very least, helping narrow down the problems will give your repair person a better idea of cost to you.
The high voltage regulator is bad on the PS causing the display to strobe at the duty cycle.
(Party animal)
The soundboard, at some point before I got it, something must have been going bad, there’s a couple cooked components (Lady Luck)
Truck Stop uses a 6803 MPU and it has severe acid damage so I stole the MPU from City Slicker for the time being. The acid damage original was booting and playing until I gave it a bath to neutralize the acid, that finally broke whatever weak connection it had.
I have a spare MPU that I wanted fixed preemptively in case something else goes back.
So it’s all for different machines, one of everything is broken!
I’ve asked a few board repair people and they all said they don’t work on 6803s. Doesn’t Chris Hibler have a 6 month backlog? I was hoping to find someone would could work on them within 2 months. I can afford some downtime, but 6 months at the arcade won’t fly.
4 weeks later
Well it finally happened 
I shipped out my boards and UPS lost them. I’m pretty devastated.
They lost my
•Truck Stop MPU
•Lady Luck Cheap Squeak
And •Party Animal Power Supply 
Where is the best place to get replacements? I haven’t seen replacement MPUs and PS’s for 6803
Quoted from Charles_Kline:This was recently posted locally. Quite a project!
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Still has the auction sticker, where is that from?
Quoted from Charles_Kline:Do you guys think it’s worth that in parts?
Party Animal is a great game and with $400 and some wood working skills you’d be very happy. As long as the playfield wasn’t water damaged, it’s fine.
Quoted from Rolpa:You'd probably need electronics skills too, judging from the state of the boards. Not to discourage anyone from bringing a pin back to life - just saying.
As someone helpfully linked above, you can buy all new boards at Weebly, if need be. Offer $200 for the Party Animal, buy $500 worth of boards, reinforce or replace the cabinet and you’ll still be into it for less than the current average price. Playfield shows heavy wear in the normal spots, but for what it is, who cares.
If you want a fun, simple and challenging player, Party Animal has a lot of bang for the buck. Plays a lot like Dr. Dude in my opinion.
Quoted from Charles_Kline:Thanks I know how to build a cabinet my question was specifically to the style of the 6803 cabinet with ugly t-molding…
When I rebuilt my City Slicker cabinet, I forgot about the T-molding, so it has none, and looks great. I’d say go for whatever. 6803s were build to be cheap as possible since Bally was on the ropes. A select few machines got special art, if they had the money, all of them would have proper cab art.
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