Cool, I'm in!

I've owned 3 6803s

Hardbody
Atlantis - https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-bally-atlantis-that-i-discovered
Motordome

Only have the Motordome left, currently getting a restore, mylar and glue removal last night, some paint came with but I'll touch that up no problem.

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No unfortunately I don't, there were lots of mistakes with my measurements I corrected on the fly. I vowed to make better notes on the next one.

Are there any other Motordome owners who can confirm left gate wiring connection? I'm getting a "left ally" aka left gate switch closed error. There is NO physical switch on this one, I'm assuming it is some magic with electrons and the diode... my BEFORE picture shows the two yellow wires disconnected from the coil but tied together. The schematic seems to show the two yellow wires tied with the brown wire.

Also when I attempt to self test the solenoids, it only does the first three then it exits solenoid testing and prompts me to enter sound test. I thought maybe there was an issue with the next solenoid in line, the left sling, but when I go into a game and manually close one of the left sling switches, the left solenoid fires as it should.

Board is aftermarket Swemmer and keypad is aftermarket as well.

Anyone have some insight they can share?

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I will measure voltage this evening, I wonder if someone taped off the yellow trying to make it "look" like the right gate.
Here is another angle of that same image. And then how I currently have it wired. Brown and two yellows are tied together and those mate with the one yellow lead coming off the gate coil and the white / violet lead it connected to the violet lead on the coil.

In looking at the schematic, only the flipper coils should have brown *before* connections?
Looks like I have a full night of DMM work ahead of me.

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Only had a chance for a brief review of things last night, I disconnected the right pop coil since the self test would exit after firing that coil and voila, the self test continued through all the remaining coils. HOWEVER I had wired the knocker coil backwards and when it got there the 5A fuse blew. I popped it out, swapped the coil leads but forgot to install a new diode, insert a circuit breaker for continued testing, fired up the machine and then the machine would NOT turn off! WTF? I spent the last of my free time pondering on how in the hell something so simple as wiring a coil backwards could affect the power switch. I stopped my work to ponder a test method to hopefully determine a solution and turned in for the night.
This morning I got out my DMM, pulled the power switch cover, did a couple continuity tests and determined something inside the cheap Chinese replacement switch I used had failed. In simply wiggling it, I heard a click inside the switch and then it tested normal again. Needless to say my next task will be replace it and then continue to try and track down the issue with why the self test program exits after firing the right pop, why do I have a Left Ally switch closed error.

I will come back with any findings soon. Appreciate the input, I was seriously discouraged after the power switch issue, some hope has been restored.

Had a display problem pop up even after repinning the connector but thanks to a donor from Atlantis, got it up and functional so I could see what I was testing.
Long story short, swapped the right pop bump coil with another, testing now proceeds past this one and finishes as it should.
I have no idea why testing terminated early on that coil, I had a new diode on it and it ohm'd out the same as the other 26-1200 coils.
Now still receiving the left ally gate open error.
Will plug away on it later.
No new thoughts on it?
Oops found it, I need to go back to geometry, switches are a circle, coils are a square!

Now just need to find out why the new speakers have no sound!

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Discussed here too:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers/page/11#post-1855100

Parts to rebuild also avail from PBL and Marco both.
Get bushings while you are at it, sometimes they are not included.

.047mfd ?

I have a recently restored 6803 game for sale on the market if anyone is interested:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-motordome-with-a-makeover

I was going to do this, I scanned the art, recreated it, converted to proper file type went to two local shops, one wanted almost 1G, the other was over 600, I ended up just getting them from Pete at Retro Refurbs for around 2 hondos and was MORE than happy with them, even on the same Oracal outdoor rated decal I was quoted locally.

These were for Motordome (before trimming).

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what game is this?

I was happy, and those images were before I cleared them with 2PAC. Here is one AFTER.

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Yes, there are bolts inside the back box on either side of the wire way opening.
6803 games used two bolts.

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That picture if from a Motordome, a 6803 game. Yes, slide the backglass UP after you turn the key.
Your glass may have a broken lift trim piece which is common on this era of game since they were plastic. If that is the case see if you can find a small suction cup to use on the glass to get it up and out safely.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8229-1

Try Clay's site:

http://www.pinrepair.com/6803/index.htm

New keypads available from Pinitech if you need one:

https://www.pinitech.com/products/bally6803_keypad.php

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally_6803#Parts_Catalogs

PM me your address, the files I have are 90MB, won't fit an email, I'll put in a drop box for you.

Selling my original Motordome backglass, the machine I have for sale will ship with a new translite instead.

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The spoon switch?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/ASW-A110-5

Welcome back. Never know what you've got till it's gone!

Easiest things to check first:

Coin door harness unplugged maybe?
Or maybe connector CJ-3 in back box.
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Looks like your missing the common tie point for all the grounds.
Here is a Motordome pic pre-restoration. The ground braid was stapled to the left side metallic cardboard.

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Fantastic, so happy it was such an easy fix! Now go play pinball!

As was indicated, it's a GI socket.

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That's great, I went by a professional print shop once, they quoted $1000!
I laughed all the way out the door.
Oh, sorry, its was ALMOST $1000, went back to my emails:
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1. 2 pops aren't working. Left one has one wire disconnected (on purpose apparently) and middle pop is missing coil.
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2. Drop target won't reset. One wire is disconnected (also on purpose).
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3. One light won't light - green light #8.
Have you checked the associated transistor for this controlled lamp?

I don't recall which pop is which, but here is one that does only have 2 wires.

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Aweee yea!!

Apologies for not following along too closely, not having a 6803 game anymore I just glance in here.
Are these fuse locations LED indicating? How cool!

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I refer to two different topics:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cabinet-restoration-vids-guide

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cabinet-builders

I just keep the same design and install new T molding.

Yes, the three grounds go to the ground clip in your photo

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