Thought the 6803 lockdown bars all had the over sized rivets. That looks like an original bally

Pinball life sells the linear rebuild kits. From my experience, I recommend staying with the original mech design. The solid clack of the linear mech has a completely different feel then the fiberboard eyelet on the old style plungers. The recommendations to convert were out of necessity back in the day when you couldn’t get parts. Now we have access to almost everything you need.

Most weak flippers on bally linear flipper mechs end up being mushroomed coilstop and plunger or loose assembly. Bally uses a spring washer on its coils to help keep tension and I have seen more then once where someone removed it “fixing” a game and never put it back. Over time the coil rattles a bit loosening the button on the coilstop causing it and the plunger to mushroom and deform. This in turn causes the nylon bushing on the paw to run crooked causing friction and all this robs power from the flipper.

The single most important thing in a pinball is the flippers. If they suck, the game sucks no matter what. With all the money we spend on games, spend the $100 at most (4 flipper game) and see how the game played new. You would be surprised.

For those of you saying you can’t feel difference, go play Bally’s truck stop. It uses both bally flipper mechs on the top flippers and Williams mechs on the bottom. Yes, you can feel a difference!

Oh yeah. If you D&D is dialed in your gonna get a tom of airballs. Try clearcoating the playfield and see what happens

I've had 7 of them and every time you get the Mylar polished, clearcoat the field, or get it stripped down and good wax applied, I get airballs on all of them.

Lol. Been doing this a while and that’s the one game that keeps showing up at my door. Most of the time it’s a dead one and I get it cheap because no one likes working on the 6803s. Last one I sold because the buyer wanted a really nice one and offered good money. Then a buddy of mine sold a complete train wreck to be because he knew I could fix it and make it nice. And I did.

Im hunting for a 6803 Transformer for a bally Atlantis. Barring that Ill take a transformer set for bally truckstop. and last but not least, any 6803 game with 14 digit alpha displays. if anyone has any of these please let me know

Snagged an Atlantis a while back and finally have some time to take a look. Came in missing a few things including the transformer. I managed to make a new transformer setup using a dungeons & dragons and space shuttle flipper transformer respectively. After getting power to the game I started on the MPU as it appeared to not be booting. There was slight acid damage and obvious damage to the memory socket as the top 2 legs had a little green crud on them. After I pulled the socket and neutralized the acid I went ahead and rinsed the board. Using the compressor, I blew the board as dry as I could. Paying partial attention to getting the chips and sockets dry, I noticed a little glint of metal in the rom sockets. 3 leafs in the top socket had broken and would have never let the game boot. Posting this as more of a “check here guys” and less of a “look how good I am”. I just got lucky! Hope this helps someone else

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if your talking about the tiny disc caps that look to be about the size of pin heads, those are the correct replacements now. The bigger caps are gonna be new old stock or a higher wattage. Thought the same thing you did about them not being right but they spec out.

Your gonna need to do some work if you don’t get an Atlantis transformer.

image (resized).jpg

Are you missing some GI over in that corner?

Will a fishtales cover work?

As a side note, I have had a socket actually have the leaf pins broken inside and you couldn’t tell. Happened to be giving the board a bath and when I blew it dry with the compressor, I saw the metal flittering around. You never know, just replace it to be safe

Damn. Would be nice if someone could just link it

https://www.arcadeshop.com/d/47/coin-doors-parts.htm

Have fun

Pull it straighten it and have it powder coated make sure they sand blast it first. Hinge might be a bit gunked up when you get it back but semi flat spray paint matches flat black powder coat exactly if you scratch it a bit getting the hing loose again

That board is mounted sideways. When you cleaned the battery damage, did you change the sockets under the battery?

Looks like it's a sounds deluxe. I would suggest doing a full recap first. The 4700uf cap is WAY past its life expectancy. After that there is a service bulletin for the sounds deluxe. When recapping the board, do not replace c12.

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Bally_6803#Sound_Problems

So....I have done about 8 of these. The black front is a product called melamine. Its a type of particle board with plastic bonded to one side and from what I'm told was pretty common in the 80's. Cheaper then plywood and no finishing costs as you could glue it up and apply decals. Remember, this is when Bally was fighting for their lives.

My guess is your cabinet is very dry and the plastic started to lift. The wood underneath would have crumbled out because of this. Someone probably applied the tape to try and stop this. the permanent solution is an epoxy pour on that corner.

How about we do a little detective work before we start pulling stuff and definately before we start cutting. Try turning it on and see what chip get hot first. usually if there is a collapse on the 5v then that voltage will be turned into heat. if its drawing it down the my guess is a chip shorted internally to ground = heat.

BTW I have had sockets go bad and the leaf inside the housing break off causing shorts. Not saying its not a socket but start with heat then move onto checking the sockets (actually used flashlight shining in the holes) for broken or damaged leaf. then you can start working thru segrigating the power lines.

Alot of people do. What is it you're looking to have done and more importantly, why? Power supply, Something wrong or just bulletproofing? Are the sound boards working or dead and what sound boards. What are the MPUs doing? is there a specific problem or are they just nor booting and any acid damage?

Not trying to sound like I'm picking on you, but your vague decsriptions would have me telling that person I need the whole game here then as I don't know if its board or game related. I find the 6803 a very robust board set and its interesting to see the direction bally was going. Not saying it's better then system 11 but the a/b lamp matrix and the individual flash lamp fuses would have saved more then a couple playfield inserts in a few system 11's (Looking at you Transporter the Rescue). The 6803 Pinwiki does a pretty good job walking you thru problems and solutions. the sound card section specifically talks about the DAC failures and how to bullet proof. At the very least, helping narrow down the problems will give your repair person a better idea of cost to you.

Picture is with 1000 words

Many moons ago I went in and cleaned up the D&D Parts Manual. IPDB never did seem to get that up for people. the brackets are listed there and I don't think those are the right ones.

https://arcarc.xmission.com/Pinball/PDF%20Pinball%20Manuals%20and%20Schematics/Dungeons%20and%20Dragons%20-%20Parts.pdf