Atlantis
Bally, 1989
Beat the Clock
Bally, 1985
Black Belt
Bally, 1986
Blackwater 100
Bally, 1988
City Slicker
Bally, 1987
Dungeons & Dragons
Bally, 1987
Eight Ball Champ
Bally, 1985
Escape from the Lost World
Bally, 1987You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider Inkochnito.
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I do not have any 6803 games, but I created Tech Charts for all these games.
You can find them on my website http://www.inkochnito.nl
Look in the Tech Charts section.
If you find any errors, please let me know and I'll correct them.
Peter
Quoted from Atari_Daze:Oops found it, I need to go back to geometry, switches are a circle, coils are a square!
Now just need to find out why the new speakers have no sound!
I have some nice Tech Charts for these 6803 games.
Everything in nice columns and lamp names alphabeticaly.
Here is the link to the Motordome chart:
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Bally_MotorDome_Tech_Chart.pdf
You can find it in the Bally section or the Tech Charts section.
Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl
Quoted from SpinnerAddict:Anyone here own a escape from lost world that could send me a couple pics of how the right flippers are wired? I have 3 flippers working great but nothing on the upper right. Ive replaced the entire thing but it looks like someone hacked the wires on both the upper and lower right flippers and i cant seem to make heads or tails of it. Thanks in advance
Does this image help?
Escape_flippers (resized).jpgQuoted from JiePieWie:I have also scanned the complete Operation Manual which is now in a better state then the one found on ipdb. There was something strange with this manual: on the front page was 'PRELIMINARY' printed in big red letters. Anybody knows what this means?
Preliminary betekend voorlopig.
Quoted from JiePieWie:Yes, i know what the meaning of the word was but what i *really* meant was why does it say preliminary? When i re-read my own post it is possible to read it your way where i was asking about the meaning of the word
It could be that the manual is from a sample game.
Preliminary manuals are subject to change as opposed to the production game.
The paper schematics of the 6803 games aren't very good to begin with.
A low res scan would only make it worse.
That's whats been done every time.
All of the schematics I have found for the 6803 games are hardly readable.
I did manage to decipher most of them to create the tech charts on my website http://www.inkochnito.nl
Combining schematics and comparing them.
Peter
Quoted from alveolus:Hey Peter,
I have an Eight Ball Champ that suddenly began playing the wrong voice and sound calls. I cannot find much(any) troubleshooting documentation for this issue.
Do you have any suggestions on where to look?
Thanks,
Shawn
I would replace U16, the inverter (4049) chip.
Or you are missing a data line.
Bally_AS-2518-61_S&T_Soundboard (resized).jpgQuoted from alveolus:Clay’s guides are my Bible, but 6803 is not his best chapter. There is hardly any content at all for S&T troubleshooting.
I’m ok with a logic probe, but the schematics offer little help on where to find the sound triggers.
Does this help?
http://www.pinrepair.com/bally/squawk.htm
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Squawk_.26_Talk_Sound_Board_Troubleshooting
Bally_AS-2518-61_S&T_Soundboard_input (resized).jpgQuoted from woody76:anybody got a strange science rubber ring list and count?
Look in the manual at page 1-13
Quoted from mulder2010:Hello, I cannot find where there's a 3 amp fuse in Strange Science.
Will somebody guide me on where they are located. I couldn't find a fuse layout in the manual.
Thanks!
The only place is the Transformer module in the cabinet.
It is the main fuse.
Look on my website http://www.inkochnito.nl for a Tech Chart in the Bally or Tech Chart section.
Quoted from oldskooler:I'd like to join 6803 squadron. Just picked up a blackbelt (#491 of 600).
Anyone got a spare mpu??!. Yeah I know.
Jaime[quoted image]
The board posted above is available for 130 euro plus shipping.
With hole and all, but working and tested.
I don't know where you live, but if it is not in Europe it might get expensive to ship it.
Within Europe it is 13 euro, but to the USA it is 35 euro.
Quoted from g43crazy:Hey guy can anyone tell me the size of the backglass for a Ecsape from lost world ? I picked up a machine that was missing the translite and
glass . I wanted to order a tempered glass and wanted to get it right .
Thanks Scott
666 mm wide by 628 mm high.
26.2 inch wide by 24.7 inch high.
Measured from a Escape from the Lost World.
I have two Bally 6803 MPU boards for sale.
The only drawback is that I live at the other side of the Atlantic Ocean.
Shipping to the US would be around 35 euro.
Look on my website http://www.inkochnito.nl and click on the Bridge Board image.
Quoted from jcar302:On another note, anyone know what diode is on the light sockets?
The diode used is a 1N4001 or 1N4004, even a 1N4007 will work.
Quoted from jcar302:I have 2 bulbs that don't work (both arrows going to the ramp ends) and each one has a wire that leds to another bulb. I feel like I shouldn't assume anything with a bally 6803 at this point, but without broken grounds, I would think that both bulbs would work at the same time.
There are two lamps on each SCR. One is working on the A phase and one is working on the B phase.
I've made a Tech Chart for Black Belt.
You can download it from my website.
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Bally_Black_Belt_Tech_Chart.pdf
Can you point out which lamps are involved?
I think one of the SCR's is broken or you have a bad solder joint at the board.
Peter
Quoted from jcar302:Thanks peter, fixed it last night. Turned out to be the sockets themselves.
I have your site bookmarked and I had printed out your tech charts.
Thanks for making them.
You're welcome.
Just spread the word and send a donation. 
Quoted from jcar302:I've fixed like 20 machines, including a gottlieb (but mostly all Williams) and this bally makes me feel like i'm starting all over.
The two phase thing is confusing and I really can't figure out how it works (I know it does, just doesn't make total sense to me personally).
Every system is an adventure. Allthough the 6803 system is a bit the same style as the older AS-2518-35 system if you look closely.
The two phase system in quite ingenius.
If you want to know, send me a PM.
Quoted from jcar302:Each time I goto put the glass on, something else pops up.
Now the right lower flipper chatters.
New coil stop and sleeve.
Resoldered a bunch of bad soldering.
Still the same, i'll clean and adjust the switches, maybe that will work.
The hold winding is interrupted.
Replace the coil or look for the break.
Usualy at the solder connections.
Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl
Check your high voltage at the power supply.
The call at the boot is to indicate the game is set on 3 balls per game.
If you change it to 5 balls per game it will say, "8 Balllll...5 ball"
As for the closed switch 13, you may need to replace the small cap at the switch.
It is common to get shorted.
Quoted from woody76:anyone got pic of the blackwater 100 switch matrix? both flippers and the upper playfield BIG target is firing the right sling.
The Operating and Parts manual is available from the ipdb.
https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=319
First, put a piece of paper between the EOS contacts on both flippers.
Second, use a multimeter and check the resistence of the coils.
Give the lugs a number (1 -2- 3) and measure between 1 and 2, 2 and 3, 1 and 3.
It should look like something like this: 3.5 ohm, 130 ohm, 133.5 ohm.
Report back here and we can tell you more and maybe what to do.
Peter
Escape for the Lost World has a different sound board, not a squawk & talk board.
It has a Sounds Deluxe board.
Only one pot on the board and I think one on or near the coin door.
On the Pinwiki there is a section about this board.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally_6803#Sounds_Deluxe_Board
Very highly recommended to take off the cap next to the DAC chip.
Quoted from Impzilla:New problem with my Special Forces machine today.
Looks like the right sling and the right pop bumper has stopped working.
Both make the activation sound when trigged manually but no solenoid action.
Neither work in the solenoid test, bright flash 2 and 5 look to be offline too.
My schematics are pretty bad but I am hunting around for a common point of failure.
Any suggestions on where to look ?
Thanks.
Check the in game menu settings.
The slingshots can be deactivated.
Special_Force_slingshots (resized).jpgQuoted from Impzilla:Only my right sling is not working but I double checked the settings and the sling shots are enabled.
The right pop bumper is not working either.
Is there a common connection or driver associated with the right pop and right sling?
Kind of odd they both stopped at the same time.
I might put a new TIP102 in Q16 and see if that helps.
No, no driver in common.
Check the Tech Chart: http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Bally_Special_Force_Tech_Chart.pdf
Do you have power (43Vdc) at both ends of the "broken" coils?
If yes, check the connector and driver.
If no, you may have a broken coil winding. Replace the coil.
Check the MPU board for bad solder joints.
Problem number one with these boards.
Bad print headers too.
Both coils use J8....
Things may always vari between the schematic and the real machine.
It isn't wroung, just not completely logical compared with the actual machine.
The common line at the coils is just that, a common line indicating the same power to those points.
Daisy chains are always the worst to follow under the playfield.
The same goes for schematic drawing for circuit boards.
You think the line goes from A to B to C, but it actualy goes from C to A to B.
The point is that they are all connected to the same line.
Quoted from Palooka61:Problem with Bally Midway Lady Luck (6803): All lamps on Phase A are out.
All of a sudden all lights that are associated with Phase A are out (For example all the lights below the spinner). Some Phase A related lights on the I checked the fuses on the Power Module, they are fine and the test points TP 6 and TP7 have 11 V AC. What should I check now? Unfortunately I only have the manual from IPDB and it's very low resolution. Thanks!
I've seen fuses under the playfield is some games.
Near the flippers most of the time.
Yes, I can confirm this.
The relay is there, just like the older AS-2518 (6800) games.
The 6803 game a really a 6800 game with the cpu, solenoid and lamp driver board all packed into one board.
The circuits are (nearly) the same way build.
The multiplexing of the cpu makes it different.
Bally_6803_relay (resized).jpgQuoted from V8haha:My upper flipper on strange science was fine then stuck on during game play play.
Coil was super hot melted coil sleeve
Checked all EOS switches all looked good.
Replaced with a new coil worked fine for 1 day then same thing.
What could be causing the coil to lock on? Board issue?
No board issue, not possible.
It is just a relay on the board.
It has to be a wiring or switch problem.
Be sure the coil is wired correctly and the EOS opens when needed.
Does the EOS have a capacitor?
Maybe the cap is shorted internaly.
Flippers (resized).jpgQuoted from V8haha:So that’s the strange part. It doesn’t lock up when powering on.
I can play a game everything works then all of a sudden you look up and the top flipper is locked on. I power off immediately. Coil can’t be locked on for more then 15 seconds. Although it’s enough that it melts the coil sleeve.
I take off the glass move the flipper down by hand and it moves back. Turn the game on and the flipper doesn’t lock on or do anything strange. It stays down i try to flip with buttons and it will jump slightly but not all the way because of the melted coil sleeve stopping movement
Thinking about it now maybe when i start a game the coil gets hotter and hotter with each flip and eventually gets hot enough to melt the coil stop and hold the flipper in the up position not electronically but the melted coil stop not allowing free movement.
If that’s the case maybe it’s not locking but just over heating over time. Maybe that bad cap is sending constant voltage.
I can try to remove the old coil sleeve and cut off the cap and see how it works.
I only have 1 more new coil so i want to try to find the issue before messing up the last coil i have.
There is no way the flipper can lock on electronic wise.
It is just switches.
If the flipper stays up, it is mechanical (or sometimes magnetic).
In your case the coil is melted, thus mechanical.
The EOS might be the problem or the large yellow cap on the EOS.
You can feel if the EOS is working or not.
If you energize the flipper and hold it, by hand try to pull it back down.
If you feel a great force holding the flipper up, the EOS is not opening (or the cap is shorted).
Normaly you can pull the flipper from the top point back down, to where the EOS makes contact again and send it back to the top position.
You can feel what I mean.
Becareful not do this for a long time, the fuse may blow or the coil gets hot and melts.
Small testing period is no problem.
This also happens when the ball hits the flipper at full force.
It knocks the flipper down from the hold position to the point where the EOS hits again and the flipper goes back to the top.
That is the reason the EOS is there.
If the EOS isn't there, the flipper would drop to the lower position because the hold winding can't pull it back up.
Look here for a nice made movie about flippers.
https://www.funwithpinball.com/exhibits/small-boards#Flipper
Quoted from lincolnv:I recently purchased a City Slicker, the game is in great shape, but I need help IDing this missing component on the sound board at cp3?
[quoted image]
There is a service bulletin about the capacitor at C30.
You must remove this cap to make sure it does not hurt the DAC.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/5/50/BallyAD7533DACFailureServiceBulletin.pdf
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally_6803#TCS_.28Turbo_Cheap_Squeak.29_Board
Quoted from Nokoro:If I recall correctly, one of the flipper buttons displays the high scores if pressed during attract mode on my 6803 (not D&D). The other button might go over summary rules. I can’t check right now, but give it a try.
You are correct.
Left flipper button shows highest scores (in game over mode).
Right flipper button shows the "rules".
Quoted from Chalkey:The sound on my D&D is really scratchy throughout the entire volume range. I've done a sound board cap kit and just tried replacing the main speaker and no joy. Is there a particular part of the sound board or anything else that might be suspect?
There are three parts mainly responsible for the amplifier part.
That's U8 (AD7533 hard to find DAC), but you have sound, so this part might be working correctly.
Next is the pre-amplifier U16 (LM3900), cheap part to replace and most likely the source of the problem.
And last the main amplifier U15 (TDA2002).
Can give problems, but more likely is U16.
Also remove C12 because is can blow your DAC at U8.
Just remove the part, it is not nessesary (redundant?).
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally_6803#Sounds_Deluxe_Board
This is a file I made with only the Sounds Deluxe schematics.
Bally_Sounds_Deluxe_schematic.pdf
Quoted from Chalkey:Did the Tda2002 and still have scratchy sound so I need to see if I can find u8 I guess. At this point I might get a repro.
I have two MPU 6803 boards for sale and two power supply boards.
The boards are on my website http://home.kpn.nl/inkochnito/onderdelen.htm
print_14_en_24_1_display_2x7AN (resized).jpgprint_16_Bally_MPU6803_1 (resized).jpgprint_17_Bally_MPU6803_1 (resized).jpgprint_21_Bally_6803_Power_Supply_1 (resized).jpgprint_22_Bally_6803_Power_Supply_1 (resized).jpg
Displays are sold.
Board 16 and board 21 are also sold.
Maybe the sound board is not receiving the right instructions.
How are the print headers on the cpu board? Oxidized? -> replace them.
Are they just pins without the plastic housing? -> Those should be replaced.
Did you reflow the solder on the cpu board J5 header?
Just some advise for the sound board....
Remove C30.
Read this on the Pinwiki.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally_6803#TCS_.28Turbo_Cheap_Squeak.29_Board
Quoted from Viggin900:Here is my J5 which has a black plastic on the connector.
[quoted image]
I hope you do know this a connector.
You can detach it from the board.
What do the pins look after you pulled the connector?
Put the game in the switch test and hit the playfield to see which switch activates.
Find out which target/rollover scores 5000 points and chaeck them all.
Check the small capacitors on the targets/rolovers too.
There are plenty of them on various switches.
Look in the manual in the switch matrix.
I did not mark the switches with capacitors on them.
Quoted from Ghostly:Diagnosing a Hardbody
Biggest issue right now is that the game won't boot. The motherboard (6803 control board) LED blinks 1-3 times before getting stuck. It mostly has been blinking 3 times.
I've been getting past that issue by letting game to warm up in the partial-power-up state that then cycle power. Then I get all 9 LED blinks.
So do I need to replace the chips at locations U2 & U4? Is it a bad NVRAM? Could something else be causing them to fail like a bad R27?
Some more minor issues, when I can get the game to actually boot:
-Upper Left Flipper - was working after rebuilding assembly and replacing with new coil, then stopped working for a while, then came back to life suddenly. It currently works, but I don't like that I do not understand why it died in the first place.
-Left Slingshot is dead - (similar to above) it was working fine, then suddenly stopped. However the slingshot is currently dead. I have not touched the drive transistor yet (Q11)
-'x3' Lamp insert on lower PF will not light - I've replaced the diode on it, however the wire going to the lamp do not seem to be getting enough power.
-'triceps' orange upper PF inset has the same issue with it not lighting. I haven't dove into that yet due to it being deeper in the cabinet.
It looks like U4 needs to be inspected.
Is the socket still good?
If you used a nvram, you could bridge diode D8 with a wire to get the 4.5V up to 5V needed for the nvram module.
Check the voltage at TP4 to be sure for the correct voltage.
This will also tell you if R27 (82 ohm) is bad.
Also easy to check with a DMM.
Did you check the print headers for bad solder joints?
Are they the kind without the plastic housing (single pins)?
Is the tin plating still in place or do they look black or tarnished?
The 3X and orange triceps lamps go to the same thyristor Q54 (J13-11)
It may be a connector issue or bad thyristor.
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Bally_Hardbody_Tech_Chart.pdf
Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl
Quoted from Ghostly:Still has the boot error, I have not tried the voltage increase mod yet. Looks like getting new chips is the next step.
How do you test if the socket is still good?
Sockets can't be checked simply.
Most of the time I just replace them.
Did your board have any corrosion from the battery?
Since U4 is close to the battery I would suggest to replace it.
Quoted from toaster777:Just got a Special Force and there’s a connector just hanging near the control board (see middle of pic - the slightly blurry black connector in the middle of the pic). It doesn’t seem this connects to anything. Looking at other photos online of special forces boards I see this same connector just dangling there. What is this for?
[quoted image]
Does it come from J9-6? (Q22)
It should be for the Weapon drop target down.
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Bally_Special_Force_Tech_Chart.pdf
Peter
Quoted from toaster777:Posted on the Special Force owners thread and also posting here:
I got my Special Force project pin working. It plays well now except I can't make the far right ramp shot. It gets almost to the top before the bend but doesn't get around. The coils look fine as well as everything else. Tried playing with the flipper angle, the EOS switch gap but nothing helps that shot. Did some reading and on pinrepair.com it says "Note that the flipper coils on many of the 6803 games are different than the ones used on -35 games. If a 6803 game has any ramps, good chance it uses A24-570/34-3600 flipper coils (which is stronger than the -35 flipper coil A25-500/34-4500)." My Special Force has 34-4500 flipper coils. Are these the wrong coils? Do I need 34-3600 and is this the reason I can't make that ramp shot?
I think you need the 24-570 part of the coil, as that is the "power" winding.
The 34-3600 is the "hold" winding.
So yes, you would need the A-24-570/34-3600 coil.
The manual also calls for that coil (as also stated on my Tech Chart).
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Bally_Special_Force_Tech_Chart.pdf
Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl
Quoted from Isochronic_Frost:The 190vDC on my machine is only reading 130v and drops rapidly. Displays are strobing and die right out.
Is the easy fix simply replacing the large capacitor?
If so, what is an exact replacement?
I have a spare power supply in it right now but I’d like to buy a few caps and replace them on my 6803s
The high voltage section is the same like the high voltage section on the AS-2518-22 board from the older Bally games.
It uses the same parts.
Here is a posting about the cap for it.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-as-2518-club/page/67#post-7091815
Quoted from Pinball-Poppy:Hi all, Newbie here. Attempting to resurrect a Beat the Clock pin (1985 era). Have had this for ~20 years kids used to play it all the time. Kids now grown and hasn't it's not been played in 7+ years. Now I have grandkids and want to fix it up for them.
Unfortunately when I opened her up I discovered the dreaded leaking battery on the 6803 board and am attempting repair. Board cleaned up. battery replaced with AA's mounted remotely. Have replaced several resistors, etc.
My problem and question is related to the area of the board labeled R1, D1, C13, RB4, and RB1. The board had damage in this area.
Now my questions and my ignorance:
1. It appears the R1 and D1 (north connections) were bridged on the front side of the board. Is this correct?
2. Also appears that D1, c13, RB4, (north connections) were also bridged on the back side of the board. Is this correct?
Hard for these old eyes to read the schematics as well as the tracer wires on the board.
[quoted image]
I've take a picture for you.
The first is the front of the board.
Second is the solder side.
Third is the solder side again, but the pictur is flipped to show the components in the same position.
I hope this helps.
Peter
www.inkochnito.nl
6803_front (resized).jpg6803_solder (resized).jpg6803_solder_flipped (resized).jpgQuoted from Pinball-Poppy:Help!!! Installed board after cleanup and....... Nothing!!! No LED flashes.
Started troubleshooting:
1. Checked the power supply, all test point voltages are within specs.
2. Unplugged everything from the MPU except J1.
3.TP2 voltage measuring very strange at .9V
4.removed J1 connector and verified 5 volts at connectors J1-10 & 11
5. Checked capacitors C8, C9 & C10 (desoldered 1 leg): C8 - 580nf, C9 & C10 0.97nf
Can't figure out what is going on??? According to what I can see on the schematic there are 2 ferrite beads involved as well at FB1 and FB2. Not sure how to test these??
Any advice will be appreciated.
TP2 on the MPU should be ground (0V).
Check your connector at J1-7,8,9.
C8 should be 470uF, not nF.
C8 is only to smooth the 5V at the board and is not that important.
FB1 and FB2 are a kind of wire jumpers.
If they are 0 ohm, they are good.
Infact you can jumper them when in a pinch.
Not giving the first flash indicates a problem with the ram in the 6803 chip (main processor).
Here is a link to the www.pinwiki.com:
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Bally_6803#CPU_Board_Power_Up_Sequence
You've got a stuck rebound switch somewhere. 
First try and replace the PIA at U7.
Also a good thing to try is replacing the caps at C14, C17, C21, C23 and C24.
Reflow the header pins at the CPU board and sound board.
If this does not help, replace the DAC.
Attached is the best schematic scan I could find.
Peter
Quoted from MiniPinHead:I’m a new Motordome owner and am reading through several threads, including this one. Noticed the discussion on the Bally Midway 7533 DAC Failures. Does my Motordome C30 capacitor from my soundboard need to be removed? If it hasn’t affected anything this long after the notice does it still apply?
I think this is C30Thank you
Yes, you need to remove this C30 capacitor.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Bally_6803#TCS_.28Turbo_Cheap_Squeak.29_Board
Reflow the solder on all the header pins on all boards.
Place a sticker on the board when the game has nvram installed, "no batteries needed".
Snip off the battery wires.
Check your display voltage and set it at 180-190V.
Maybe replace the capacitor at the high voltage section and the 5V section on the power supply.
Quoted from MiniPinHead:Thank you! I’ll get on that label ASAP and check the voltages, too. Do you keep the display voltage at 180 even if you replace the plasma displays with LEDs?
Is there a recommended capacitor kit for the power supply board?
On a side note, on the game board, what is going on with this capacitor? I just found it odd looking, like it was too big for the space.
When you use led displays you can pull out fuse FU2 on the power supply.
No need for high voltage when you use led displays.
You don't even have to replace C2 on the power supply, as it is no longer used.
The remaining capacitors to replace are C1 (11000uF/25V) and C3 (2.2uF/25V).
That is not a capcitor, it is a resistor.
It is a higher wattage than needed.
Not the best work.
You might considder replacing it with a smaller wattage that fitts the spot and doing a better solder job.
Quoted from MiniPinHead:Thank you so much for these recommendations. I ordered a pair of these LED displays: https://www.thepinballwizard.net/x-pin-products/bally/midway-6803-display-orange-xp-bly6803-o/ I thought I read that the LED displays need the higher voltage line, but only consume about 5V. Not sure if that makes sense, or if I was reading something about old LED technology. If I use these displays, would it still be okay to leave the FU2 fuse and replace the C2 capacitor, just to make sure the board is future-proofed?
Is there a recommended capacitor kit for the power board? Can you get more robust capacitors for longevity's sake?
For the incorrect resistor (thank you for the correction) on my control board (sorry I called it a game board), I'm struggling to identify the correct resistor to buy and replace it with. I was trying to look at: https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/3/33/Controlmod.pdf Do you think the capacitor directly below it should also be replaced? It looks like it got jostled at some point.
If the high voltage is not used, it is better to remove the fuse FU2.
No voltage, no stress on the components, no risk of shock.
If you want you can replace C2.
I don't know any capacitor set for the 6803 set.
It is just a few caps.
R133 is a 1.2K resistor 1/4W (brown-red-red-gold).
The damaged resistor below it is R135 and is the same value.
What a bad schematic.
I will need to update that file.
Here is a better file.
Bally_6803_MPU_schematic.pdfQuoted from MiniPinHead:I was trying to look at: https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/3/33/Controlmod.pdf
Can you point me to the page where you found the link to this file?
I can't seem to find it.
Quoted from MiniPinHead:https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Leon_Borre_Bally_6803_repair
Where it says “The schematic....”
Brings you here: https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/File:Controlmod.pdf
Thanks for the link.
I'll see what I can do.
I do not own an official 6803 game, but I've made a 6803 test rig for myself.
To test the 6803 mpu input/output (switches, lamps, solenoids, sound, display), the sound boards and power supply.
I had 5 mpu boards that needed fixing and 3 power supply boards.
Recently a display set and sound board came into my possesion to complete the board set.
I already had a wire bundle or two from some other games which were parted out.
I build the test board from scratch and learned from some misstakes I made in the wiring.
Does this make me a member of the club?
20221211_114433 (resized).jpg20230108_172503 (resized).jpg20230115_163331 (resized).jpg20230115_163352 (resized).jpgQuoted from Axl:My hardbody has been a trusted game for a while (and so surprisingly fun!).
In a tournament it suddenly blew the fu1 5A fuse.
We have been trying to find a short, no luck.
Does anyone have any suggestions?
It could be a bad bridge rectifier BR1.
Easy to check with a DMM on diode setting.
You do have to take the board out of the game.
I have a problem with a 14-digit display.
Actualy two displays with the same behaviour.
The wiring is correct, connectors are new.
The test rig works perfectly.
Testing with good displays shows everything is working correctly.
The bad display shows all the digits on, with all the segments on, all the time.
I replaced both the 74LS373 and the MC14515 (or CD4514 if you like).
No effect.
Checked the voltage via the zener.
181V for the supply and after the zener 71V, correct.
The only correctly working seems to be the comma's on the display.
Here is a short video of the display.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_lOY3jfXI_Dwv4yGgznHZgHgd9dq-pdP/view?usp=sharing
6803_bad_display (resized).jpg6803_good_display (resized).jpgBally_6803_Dual_Display_schematic.pdfQuoted from vec-tor:74HC373 high speed, CMOS circuitry. schematics calls for 74HC373.
74LS373 Low-power Schottky.
When the latch-enable (LE) input is high, the Q
outputs follow the data (D) inputs. When LE is low,
the Q outputs are latched at the logic levels of the D inputs.
Check C2 if bad? Check R107?
I did check C2 and R107, both are good.
Are these 74LS373 and 47HC373 really that different from eachother?
Is it the speed that kills it?
Quoted from Mik-ReadingUK:I once tried a 74LS373 that I found in my spares when I was repairing a display on my Party animal, but it didn't work. Ordered an HC instead which got it going again.
I've ordered the 74HC373 part...
I'll let you know the result and put it on Pinwiki.
Quoted from Mik-ReadingUK:I once tried a 74LS373 that I found in my spares when I was repairing a display on my Party animal, but it didn't work. Ordered an HC instead which got it going again.
You were correct.
I've put in the 74HC373 and the displays are working again.
I always though the 74LS373 and the 74HC373 are the same, but no.
Even my small Chinese chip tester knows the difference.
I'll put this info on the Pinwiki page.
Quoted from Lovef2k:I have to replace 4 SCR's to get 100% lamps working. Manual calls for 2N5060 but I only have 2N5064 on hand, can I use this for a substitute?
Yes you can.
The 2N5064 is a good replacement.
Another replacement part which can be used is a BT169.
Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl
Quoted from Boat:Is there an active Bally black belt owner on here that can sent me a photo of the right drop target bank wiring ? The stand ups behind the target bank specifically . But the drops too would be good. I think my wiring is wrong,
Thanks !!
Does my Tech Chart help?
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Bally_Black_Belt_Tech_Chart.pdf
Put the game in switch test mode and test each switch....
Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl
There is a file on my website to print new score and instruction cards for Motordome.
Looks a lot better than the old yellowed cards.
Look in the Bally Section.
http://www.inkochnito.nl
Peter
Quoted from parzval:Hi Folks. I've got a HMM that I've recently started playing more after being in storage since I've moved, and I've got a couple questions on some things I didn't notice before. Is it normal for these 6803 games to only display the highest score (and no initials)?
When in attract mode you push the left flipper button you should see the initials first then it cycles to the score for the 4 highest scores.
Quoted from parzval:Also, I'm not getting any sounds with my attract mode. It doesn't matter what I set it to 0 or 1. Regular in-game sounds are fine. And I did a factory reset as well but no change.
When in attract mode you push the right flipper button you get to see the game rules with sound.
Quoted from parzval:I know these games have been engineered with "extreme cost effectiveness"... were the features perhaps eliminated? I've looked up HMM and several other 6803 games on youtube and they all seem to do display only the highest score. And nobody seems to leave them in attract very long in the videos so I never hear any attract sounds either. Can anyone confirm?
When the game is idle no sounds are played.
Display does the same cycle over and over again.
It only changes when you hit any flipper button.
Quoted from parzval:Note: I have noticed that pinwiki says that the HMM manual has an error in jumpers, that 8 should be in and 9 out... but mine has 9 in. I guess someone swapped my CPU at some point? Though it says jumpers 8/9 are general/light driver related, that doesn't seem like it would affect display or sound. I'll get to changing the jumper this week either way.
Thanks!
The jumper has nothing to do with displays or sound.
Jumper JW8 is for the back box lamp to be switched on and off via Q9.
Peter
www.inkochnito.nl
Quoted from splattii:Have an Eight Ball Champ. Everything works but the Squawk & Talk is doing strange things. First ball no background sounds, second ball all sounds are there... once in a while talking goes away, and sometimes it keeps saying "you scratched" over and over... other times it's perfectly fine. The game itself plays and scores properly. What's the most likely culprit here? Wiring? Grounding? Faulty chip or power? This is an odd game. I own an Eight Ball Deluxe as well. The first time I played Eight Ball Champ I thought it was horrendous lol. With all the sounds and talking going it's SO MUCH BETTER. I need to fix this issue to enjoy this machine. Thanks!
Edit: It seems like it's one of two connectors!? When I open the backbox and toggle one of the wires that goes to either the power supply or MPU the volume raises. It's hard to tell which set it is because as the place I need to wiggle them is an intersection of wires, and even if I try closer to the boards both sets of wires move. I'd have to assume it's the power supply wiring that's causing the volume to change when touching themAdded today: The current situation;
The Squawk and Talk flashes the correct number of flashes. I no longer have sound at all during a game. If I hit the rest test button on the Squawk and Talk I can hear the callouts. There was one instance where the callouts started and cut/stopped immediately and I couldn't get them to work again without turning off/on. Regardless, it's dead silence during a game.
Start with reading this section.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Bally_6803#Replacing_header_pins
No easy feat....
Quoted from splattii:I have an Eight Ball Champ. Everything works but the sound effects aren't lining up with the actions. I replaced the pots and fixed the lack of sound, but now it keeps saying "too bad, you scratched" almost every 5 seconds or "get the eight ball" or "get the 5 ball" over and over. I cut the caps off the switches as this caused a problem elsewhere but still no luck. Any idea what might be happening here? The game scores and plays fine, it's just the talking that seems off
You should check the connectors at the cpu board (J5) and the sound board (J1).
It sounds as if your sound board is missing data signals.
It can be.
Be sure to test your ram chip before you put it in.
If I may suggest that you remove the coil connectors, it might save your coils from burning up if something goes wroung.
Just untill you have the cpu up and running correctly.
This is part of an IDC (or Insulation Displacement Connector) and is know the go bad.
When in a pinch you could used a non used pin from some other IDC connector of the same type.
Best you replace it with a new type of Molex connector with trifurcon type connectors.
Did you check the flipper relay is working correctly?
Did you hear it click in the solenoid test?
Quoted from MoSeS_1592:My three left flashers went out recently on my Special Force. According to the manual they are all on the "Bright 1" solenoid driver. I believe it is Q15 but my manual copy is so blury I can't tell for sure and cannot find Q15 on the manual mpu board diagram (again because it is so blury). Can someone confirm that it is Q15 (flasher circuit for flasher under left helicopter ramp saucer) and the location of this transistor on the mpu board? I haven't worked on bally in a long time. This is a common TIP102/TIP120, correct? Thanks! [quoted image]
Yes, Q15 confirmed.
Here is a link to my Tech Chart for Special Force.
https://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Bally_Special_Force_Tech_Chart.pdf
A TIP102 can be used for Q15.
Q15 is exactly the middle transistor of the complete row of transistors at the top of the board.
Just under connector J8 pin 7.
A better MPU copy is attached in this posting.
Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl
If you like my work, please send me a donation.
Bally_6803_MPU_Module.pdfQuoted from MoSeS_1592:And not to sound stupid but is there a fuse identification diagram somewhere for these power supply boards? I can't seem to find one in the manual.
Under the playfield there should be a 3/4 Amp fuse for the bright lights.
In the manual on page 2-18, in the upper right corner, there is a schematic for the solenoids.
There is the fuse drawn for both solenoids and bright lights.
Where exactly the fuse is located, I don't know. Just that it is under the playfield.
Quoted from MoSeS_1592:On a side note I never knew that this machine had a knocker solenoid until I was digging around looking for a solution to this problem I came across it.. Mine never worked. All of the solenoid circuits seem to work but I've never heard the knocker activate and never saw a setting to disable it in the adjustments. I checked the fuse for it and the ceramic resistor under the Playfield and they both check out fine.
The ceramic resistor and the adjoining fuse is for the bright lights only.
Now you've found the bright lights fuse.
I assume the "kicker to playfield" works, otherwise you would get no ball for the shooter.
There has to be a connection between the two coils.
They are both activated by Q40, just switched via the solenoid expander.
Check the resistance of the knocker coil with the power off.
Should be around 3 to 4 ohm.
Check the diode on the coil.
One should measure 0.5 in diode setting.
The other one is paralel with the coil and should give you a short (3 ohm) reading.
Check the power at the coil, 43V should be present when powered on.
Quoted from MoSeS_1592:Well apparently the knocker coil works. I can activate it in the self test mode but I don't think I've ever heard it knock during a game. I assume the knocker events are the same for all 6803 games (special, high score, extra ball)? I didn't see any adjustment setting to enable/disable the knocker. Hmmm.
Just put the replay score level at 10.000 for the first replay.
Maybe a second at 50.000 points.
Whatever you like.
What also a "problem" can be is the Freeplay setting.
It might be possible that the knocker is disabled on Freeplay.
Quoted from Mathazar:Hoping someone can steer me in the right direction as this is the first 6803 game I've had to troubleshoot. A friend of mine has a 1987 Dungeons & Dragons and the displays blank out intermittently. It could run fine for hours and then both displays go blank. Sometimes cycling power brings them back, sometimes not. Sometimes they come back on their own and stay working for a few minutes before blanking out again, or sometimes for hours before blanking out again. All other aspects of the game (coils, flippers, pops, scoring/switches, sound, etc.) work fine.
When they're working, the displays are nice and bright. No missing or weak segments and no evidence of outgassing. I've reseated the connectors a few times. Close inspection of the connectors yielded no evidence of green gloop, and the contact looks shiny on both the connectors and the pins on the displays boards. I could re-pin the connectors but I don't feel that's the issue. Same for re-flowing solder on the connector points...saw no evidence of cold or cracked joints. It's easy to do on a bench but the pin is in cramped corner of a comic book store without a lot of room to work, lol.
First thought goes to power. The power module board has all of the correct voltages at all test points. The board looks unmolested, at least from the top (I haven't pulled the board yet to see the underside). Caps look original, so I know the board could use a refurb kit but for the time being that's just in the back of my mind because all of the voltage test points are good.
The HV power module output to the displays measures a steady 190.2vdc at the test point. More than once, I was staring directly at the DMM when both displays would suddenly blank out and there was no fluctuation in that 190.2vdc reading at all.
At this point, I'm suspecting the displays and my friend has no problem throwing $300 at an LED replacement board set. In fact, he's kind of excited at the prospect of getting blue colored displays (Wolffpac). But what has me puzzled is that BOTH displays will blank out at the same time, not just one or the other, which suggests something common and/or before the displays (power? data?) is influencing the behavior.
Before I get and install new displays for him, I'm hoping a 6803 expert could tell me if I'm barking up the wrong tree here by suspecting that both displays could be "bad" or could there be other things on the power module (or MPU) that could cause intermittent blanking on both displays at the same time that I should be looking at.
Thanks!
Yes, there is a common Blanking line originating from the MPU J2-1.
If this signal is interrupted the displays go blank.
I have created a pdf file for the 6803 MPU only.
On the center of page 8 (pdf file) you can clearly see all the lines go through connector J2 of the MPU.
Re-flow all the headers on the MPU board.
The same goes for the Power Supply.
If you need more schematics from the other modules, just let me know.
Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl
Bally_6803_MPU_Module.pdfQuoted from KING-HENRY:Hoping someone can chime in if they might know what’s preventing the machine to start a game. Thanks for any pointers
Did you read the manual?
Do the switch test in the game.
Do you have the correct amount of balls (3) in the trough?
What is the state of the MPU board?
Did you reflow the header pins?
Peter
Quoted from cws204:I recently purchased a Heavy Metal Meltdown and I think my cabinet is out of square.
-The plunger is way off center, --It is difficult to get the plunge up the shooter lane and out the gate.
-End of the playfield glass near lockdown bar is uneven across
-small gap on seem underneat playfield.
What methods can be used to try get these 6803 cabinets back into square?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Did you try adjusting the leg levelers?
Look as though the front right is too far out and the back right too far in.
The shooter can be adjusted by loosening the nuts of the shooter housing on the inside of the cabinet.
Shift the shooter to the correct position and tighten them again.
The game may have been handled by the shooter when transporting.
The shooter is not a transport handle, but a ball shooter.
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Piershil
Asheville, NC