(Topic ID: 235022)

Bally 6803 Club - All Welcome

By gweempose

5 years ago


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  • Latest reply 6 days ago by Mathazar
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There are 863 posts in this topic. You are on page 8 of 18.
#351 3 years ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Dungeons and dragons manual that I've seen online shows a switch matrix that has all the cabinet switches on the same connector as the playfield switches.

Where are you seeing this?
The online manuals I'm looking at show the cabinet switch connector goes to MPU-J3 and the playfield switch connector goes to MPU-J4.

Quoted from Chalkey:

such as a slam tilt that doesn't have a diode.

They probably realised they could save a few cents. Activating the slam tilt causes the game to reboot. Having other switches in the matrix phantom activate at that point is inconsequential.

#352 3 years ago

That makes a little bit of sense. IPDB only has 1 page of the switch matrix, here's what I was using from another pinside thread:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/dd-switch-matrix-need-help#post-2595613

I think the diode thing messed me up more than it should have, in combination with the wire colors being different after the coin door connector. Here's what I've had going on.

I've been having an intermittent problem with multiball being awarded when it should not (sending the ball around on the skill shot after locking the ball or on initial plunge will sometimes award multiball when it should not). I recently completely rebuilt the skill shot 3 (top) gate and the Level (final gate on the left ramp). Today I unplugged the connectors and checked every diode, verified the involved switches worked properly, made sure all switches showed up as they should in test. This is where things started to got weird.

When testing to see if anything helped I started having what appear to be switch matrix issues but with little rhyme or reason. Most switches on CJ4-14 cause the action of the switch to the right of them in the matrix (coins and return left caused pop bumpers, return right caused left sling), but the rebound switch would cause a slam tilt which is in the same column. This would happen in game but in test mode the switches and coil tests worked perfectly. I removed the playfield connector and bridged the rebound switch pins and it did not cause the slam tilt. The problem was intermittent so these two items could possibly be red herrings but I have never gotten a switch error to show up in test mode, activating as many simultaneous as I could and doing my best to recreate game conditions. This could be due to the crappy nature of the 6803 switch test not showing a momentary closure of a problem switch.

After this I tried replacing the two socketed 6801 chips and replaced the switch IDC connectors with crimp and stuff with no changes. Without changing anything else that I know of the switch matrix problem seems to have gone away with the multiball problem remaining. During this process I tried to look at the involved columns and check for lugs and leafs being contacted, and loose diodes / diode legs contacting lugs etc. I'm not sure where to go from here but I'm getting ready to just replace every diode in the MFer, starting with the rebound switch column. I'm looking at the matrix trying to find a potentially bad diode using the box method but I can't find any commonality with normally closed (or closed during gameplay) switches that makes any sense. I'd previously snipped a leg off of most of the capacitors on the game trying to diagnose the aforementioned multiball issue.

Is it possible (or probable) that this is a logic issue, not a switch issue? The windows in the game ROMs are exposed but from what I read this isn't usually a problem.

#353 3 years ago

And just like that... now I can't get it to act up at all. The only thing I did was a switch adjustment on skill shot 2. Nothing looked off about it except maybe it was a little close. I'm going to walk away for a few hours, come back and kick the shit out the cabinet, wiggle harnesses and F with it until it either shows symptoms again or I decide to set it on fire.

#354 3 years ago

Unknowingly fell into this 6803 hole after a recent Motordome purchase! Thought I was ready to step up from my EMs? Drawn in by all the lights, ramps and a couldn’t pass up deal.
In ok shape, but 2 obvious issues:
1: Nothing happening on either display. (Replaced proper fuses)

2: upper left flipper dead. Wiring appears good. Coil resistance was also good.

Any ideas how to proceed? Everything else works/ plays well. I have a manual.

My passion overwhelms my knowledge!
Thanks, Jeremy

#355 3 years ago
Quoted from Jaworski5:

Unknowingly fell into this 6803 hole after a recent Motordome purchase! Thought I was ready to step up from my EMs? Drawn in by all the lights, ramps and a couldn’t pass up deal.
In ok shape, but 2 obvious issues:
1: Nothing happening on either display. (Replaced proper fuses)
2: upper left flipper dead. Wiring appears good. Coil resistance was also good.
Any ideas how to proceed? Everything else works/ plays well. I have a manual.
My passion overwhelms my knowledge!
Thanks, Jeremy

I'd start here ...

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally_6803

#356 3 years ago
Quoted from Jaworski5:

Unknowingly fell into this 6803 hole after a recent Motordome purchase! Thought I was ready to step up from my EMs? Drawn in by all the lights, ramps and a couldn’t pass up deal.
In ok shape, but 2 obvious issues:
1: Nothing happening on either display. (Replaced proper fuses)
2: upper left flipper dead. Wiring appears good. Coil resistance was also good.
Any ideas how to proceed? Everything else works/ plays well. I have a manual.
My passion overwhelms my knowledge!
Thanks, Jeremy

Nada on displays is most likely a problem on the high voltage section of your power supply. First evaluate your experience and comfort level with high voltage. If you are good, then test to see if you have about 180V from TP2 to ground. If no, move to TP3 and check that for 230V. Best case scenario is nothing on TP2 and ~230V on TP3. In that case, unplug machine and spray some contact cleaner in your HV pot and articulate the switch. Not the end of the world if neither test point has voltage, but it requires some soldering and a "cap job" that is outlined here: http://www.pinrepair.com/6803/ You might also have a bit of luck by re-flowing the solder on your power board before replacing components. Seems like the electrolytic capacitors are prone to failure after 30 years or so. Get a nice Hakko or equivalent if you don't already have one.

I suppose that it could be possible that the 43VDC is related, but since some of your flippers work, it is probably a local problem.

#357 3 years ago

Thank you very much for the guidance you two. I’ll check a few things out this weekend.

#358 3 years ago

For your upper flipper, I think your machine has two switches on the flipper button. Could be as easy as cleaning and adjusting the switch. If your left lower flipper works, you at least have a good circuit to the switch. Not much else if you have good wiring connection and coils...

#359 3 years ago

Hey y'all, I'm looking for a couple plastics for Eight Ball Champ and thought this to be the best place to ask. I'm lacking the upper left "i" plastic and the lower right "t" plastic. If any of you happen to have either of those that you'd let go then please let me know! Thanks.

#360 3 years ago
Quoted from Jahkub:

Hey y'all, I'm looking for a couple plastics for Eight Ball Champ and thought this to be the best place to ask. I'm lacking the upper left "i" plastic and the lower right "t" plastic. If any of you happen to have either of those that you'd let go then please let me know! Thanks.

I am not willing to set my plastics free, but I could send you a high-res scan of mine if you want to make your own repro.

#361 3 years ago
Quoted from newbieinKC:

I am not willing to set my plastics free, but I could send you a high-res scan of mine if you want to make your own repro.

That would be fantastic!

#362 3 years ago

I should consider copyright laws. Even though I would not be looking for payment and the copyright owner isn't making reproductions, I want to steer clear. I don't want to put myself or this forum in danger if the copyright owner gets upset. When I was researching the methods to repro, the companies who amalgamated the art were asked to cease.

#363 3 years ago

PM him the scan

1 week later
#364 3 years ago

Took over as custodian of a little sad and neglected Special Force recently, i wanted a project and this was it, it didnt boot when i looked at it but when i got it home it booted up, good start! That didnt last long and would stop at led flash 7 and stall or sometimes it would boot and play but reset during play this turned out to be a loose connecter on the power board a reseat of the plug fixed that, left sling didnt work, previous "Tech?" had wired a new coil in but had the diode backwards which blew the Transistor, replaced both and now works fine, on to the lots of globes that are out mixed bag of blown globes lazy connectors amd a few shorted SCR's replaced and cleaned all good here now too (looks great in attract mode) lastly one of the score displays is missing all of the top segments on the second display the first display works as expected, did the usual swap sides (no change) and checked all the traces (all good) lifted middle leg of Q1 to check(good) i resoldered that leg, checked R1 R2 (good) swapped out U1 thinking it has to be this nope still the same i finally realised that i hadnt reflowed the other 2 legs of Q1 did this back on the machine and for the first time in over a decade all the displays work.
I was looking for a replacement board unsuccesfully before it set out on the repair road but since have sourced a replacement direct from Fred which is in transit at the moment, if you need a replacement MPU i highly recommend contacting Fred direct at [email protected]
Hope this makes others repairs/trouble shooting a little easier

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#365 3 years ago

My upper flipper on strange science was fine then stuck on during game play play.

Coil was super hot melted coil sleeve

Checked all EOS switches all looked good.

Replaced with a new coil worked fine for 1 day then same thing.

What could be causing the coil to lock on? Board issue?

#366 3 years ago
Quoted from V8haha:

My upper flipper on strange science was fine then stuck on during game play play.
Coil was super hot melted coil sleeve
Checked all EOS switches all looked good.
Replaced with a new coil worked fine for 1 day then same thing.
What could be causing the coil to lock on? Board issue?

No board issue, not possible.
It is just a relay on the board.
It has to be a wiring or switch problem.
Be sure the coil is wired correctly and the EOS opens when needed.
Does the EOS have a capacitor?
Maybe the cap is shorted internaly.

Flippers (resized).jpgFlippers (resized).jpg
#367 3 years ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

No board issue, not possible.
It is just a relay on the board.
It has to be a wiring or switch problem.
Be sure the coil is wired correctly and the EOS opens when needed.
Does the EOS have a capacitor?
Maybe the cap is shorted internaly.[quoted image]

The EOS does have a capacitor.

Can it be ran without?
(Sorry I’m new to 6803 and still learning i had a roll over switch capacitor go bad. i cut it off and the switch has been working fine ever since.)

I ordered capacitors for this game but i received very very small ones to small for the switched however it was the same part number.

Anyone know a good site to buy the correct capacitors? I’ve tried looking them up on pinball life and Marco with no luck.

#368 3 years ago
Quoted from V8haha:

The EOS does have a capacitor.
Can it be ran without?
(Sorry I’m new to 6803 and still learning i had a roll over switch capacitor go bad. i cut it off and the switch has been working fine ever since.)
I ordered capacitors for this game but i received very very small ones to small for the switched however it was the same part number.
Anyone know a good site to buy the correct capacitors? I’ve tried looking them up on pinball life and Marco with no luck.

if your talking about the tiny disc caps that look to be about the size of pin heads, those are the correct replacements now. The bigger caps are gonna be new old stock or a higher wattage. Thought the same thing you did about them not being right but they spec out.

#369 3 years ago
Quoted from V8haha:

The EOS does have a capacitor.
Can it be ran without?
(Sorry I’m new to 6803 and still learning i had a roll over switch capacitor go bad. i cut it off and the switch has been working fine ever since.)
I ordered capacitors for this game but i received very very small ones to small for the switched however it was the same part number.
Anyone know a good site to buy the correct capacitors? I’ve tried looking them up on pinball life and Marco with no luck.

Capacitors are necessary on playfield switches to ensure fast hits get registered. Aren’t they all 0.47 capacitors? Amazon has them. Electronics sites I’m sure will as well.

Edit: Not sure about the EOS switch though and whether it is the same capacitor.

#370 3 years ago
Quoted from V8haha:

The EOS does have a capacitor.
Can it be ran without?
(Sorry I’m new to 6803 and still learning i had a roll over switch capacitor go bad. i cut it off and the switch has been working fine ever since.)
I ordered capacitors for this game but i received very very small ones to small for the switched however it was the same part number.
Anyone know a good site to buy the correct capacitors? I’ve tried looking them up on pinball life and Marco with no luck.

How about un update, whats happening, does the coil lock on still? on powerup or only when starting a game? cut 1 leg of the Cap make any difference? Check the diodes? a bad 1 can cause a lockon, A photo closeup showing flipper and EOS might help reveal (local short) the problem

#371 3 years ago
Quoted from Rossc:

How about un update, whats happening, does the coil lock on still? on powerup or only when starting a game? cut 1 leg of the Cap make any difference? Check the diodes? a bad 1 can cause a lockon, A photo closeup showing flipper and EOS might help reveal (local short) the problem

So that’s the strange part. It doesn’t lock up when powering on.

I can play a game everything works then all of a sudden you look up and the top flipper is locked on. I power off immediately. Coil can’t be locked on for more then 15 seconds. Although it’s enough that it melts the coil sleeve.

I take off the glass move the flipper down by hand and it moves back. Turn the game on and the flipper doesn’t lock on or do anything strange. It stays down i try to flip with buttons and it will jump slightly but not all the way because of the melted coil sleeve stopping movement

Thinking about it now maybe when i start a game the coil gets hotter and hotter with each flip and eventually gets hot enough to melt the coil stop and hold the flipper in the up position not electronically but the melted coil stop not allowing free movement.

If that’s the case maybe it’s not locking but just over heating over time. Maybe that bad cap is sending constant voltage.

I can try to remove the old coil sleeve and cut off the cap and see how it works.

I only have 1 more new coil so i want to try to find the issue before messing up the last coil i have.

#372 3 years ago
Quoted from V8haha:

So that’s the strange part. It doesn’t lock up when powering on.
I can play a game everything works then all of a sudden you look up and the top flipper is locked on. I power off immediately. Coil can’t be locked on for more then 15 seconds. Although it’s enough that it melts the coil sleeve.
I take off the glass move the flipper down by hand and it moves back. Turn the game on and the flipper doesn’t lock on or do anything strange. It stays down i try to flip with buttons and it will jump slightly but not all the way because of the melted coil sleeve stopping movement
Thinking about it now maybe when i start a game the coil gets hotter and hotter with each flip and eventually gets hot enough to melt the coil stop and hold the flipper in the up position not electronically but the melted coil stop not allowing free movement.
If that’s the case maybe it’s not locking but just over heating over time. Maybe that bad cap is sending constant voltage.
I can try to remove the old coil sleeve and cut off the cap and see how it works.
I only have 1 more new coil so i want to try to find the issue before messing up the last coil i have.

There is no way the flipper can lock on electronic wise.
It is just switches.
If the flipper stays up, it is mechanical (or sometimes magnetic).
In your case the coil is melted, thus mechanical.
The EOS might be the problem or the large yellow cap on the EOS.
You can feel if the EOS is working or not.
If you energize the flipper and hold it, by hand try to pull it back down.
If you feel a great force holding the flipper up, the EOS is not opening (or the cap is shorted).
Normaly you can pull the flipper from the top point back down, to where the EOS makes contact again and send it back to the top position.
You can feel what I mean.
Becareful not do this for a long time, the fuse may blow or the coil gets hot and melts.
Small testing period is no problem.

This also happens when the ball hits the flipper at full force.
It knocks the flipper down from the hold position to the point where the EOS hits again and the flipper goes back to the top.
That is the reason the EOS is there.
If the EOS isn't there, the flipper would drop to the lower position because the hold winding can't pull it back up.
Look here for a nice made movie about flippers.
https://www.funwithpinball.com/exhibits/small-boards#Flipper

#373 3 years ago
Quoted from V8haha:

So that’s the strange part. It doesn’t lock up when powering on.
I can play a game everything works then all of a sudden you look up and the top flipper is locked on. I power off immediately. Coil can’t be locked on for more then 15 seconds. Although it’s enough that it melts the coil sleeve.
I take off the glass move the flipper down by hand and it moves back. Turn the game on and the flipper doesn’t lock on or do anything strange. It stays down i try to flip with buttons and it will jump slightly but not all the way because of the melted coil sleeve stopping movement
Thinking about it now maybe when i start a game the coil gets hotter and hotter with each flip and eventually gets hot enough to melt the coil stop and hold the flipper in the up position not electronically but the melted coil stop not allowing free movement.
If that’s the case maybe it’s not locking but just over heating over time. Maybe that bad cap is sending constant voltage.
I can try to remove the old coil sleeve and cut off the cap and see how it works.
I only have 1 more new coil so i want to try to find the issue before messing up the last coil i have.

did u change the diodes when u changed the coil? check the flipper switch with machine turned off, press button on both sides compare them look for obvious gap differences sounds like solenoid not going to hold, be something simple for sure

#374 3 years ago

Had this problem on a data east pinball machine my wires were not soldered good, restripped them and soldered good fixed the issue

Quoted from V8haha:

So that’s the strange part. It doesn’t lock up when powering on.
I can play a game everything works then all of a sudden you look up and the top flipper is locked on. I power off immediately. Coil can’t be locked on for more then 15 seconds. Although it’s enough that it melts the coil sleeve.
I take off the glass move the flipper down by hand and it moves back. Turn the game on and the flipper doesn’t lock on or do anything strange. It stays down i try to flip with buttons and it will jump slightly but not all the way because of the melted coil sleeve stopping movement
Thinking about it now maybe when i start a game the coil gets hotter and hotter with each flip and eventually gets hot enough to melt the coil stop and hold the flipper in the up position not electronically but the melted coil stop not allowing free movement.
If that’s the case maybe it’s not locking but just over heating over time. Maybe that bad cap is sending constant voltage.
I can try to remove the old coil sleeve and cut off the cap and see how it works.
I only have 1 more new coil so i want to try to find the issue before messing up the last coil i have.

#375 3 years ago

What’s the purpose of a cap on the EOS switch?

#376 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

What’s the purpose of a cap on the EOS switch?

The EOS switch capacitor reduces the arcing (and consequently electrical noise) that burns the switch contacts. As a result, the switch lasts longer.

#377 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

The EOS switch capacitor reduces the arcing (and consequently electrical noise) that burns the switch contacts. As a result, the switch lasts longer.

Got it. Thanks.

#378 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

The EOS capacitor reduces the arcing (and consequently electrical noise) that burns the switch contacts.

My Silverball Mania had loads of phantom solenoid firings untill Caps were added and the flipper wires were seperated from the harness in case u were wondering what electrical noise can do

#379 3 years ago
Quoted from Rossc:

My Silverball Mania had loads of phantom solenoid firings untill Caps were added and the flipper wires were seperated from the harness in case u were wondering what electrical noise can do

Those Ballys have a very high input impedance on the switch inputs and they pick up flipper current surge/collapse when the cables run long distance together. Caps alone do not eliminate the problem whereas separating the wiring like you've done does.

#380 3 years ago

I recently purchased a City Slicker, the game is in great shape, but I need help IDing this missing component on the sound board at cp3?

SAM_0579 (resized).JPGSAM_0579 (resized).JPG
#381 3 years ago
Quoted from lincolnv:

but I need help IDing this missing component on the sound board at cp3?

It's a 0.01uF 50V ceramic capacitor.

TurboCheapSqueek_CP3.pngTurboCheapSqueek_CP3.png

#382 3 years ago
Quoted from Rossc:

did u change the diodes when u changed the coil? check the flipper switch with machine turned off, press button on both sides compare them look for obvious gap differences sounds like solenoid not going to hold, be something simple for sure

The new coil came with new diodes

I checked all the switches and EOS switches I’m guessing it must be that cap I’m going to cut it off and see if i have any luck.

Thanks

#383 3 years ago

Thanks for the reply, Quench. Can i replace it with a disc capacitor .047 100v?

#384 3 years ago
Quoted from lincolnv:

Thanks for the reply, Quench. Can i replace it with a disc capacitor .047 100v?

The voltage is fine (treat 50V as minimum), but almost 5x capacitance might not fare well in the integrated circuit. +/- 20% is fine, but I would try to get a smaller axial instead of trying something that holds way more juice than the original. The .047 might have unintended consequences and may not, but we are talking about a common $1.00 part.

#385 3 years ago
Quoted from V8haha:

The new coil came with new diodes
I checked all the switches and EOS switches I’m guessing it must be that cap I’m going to cut it off and see if i have any luck.
Thanks

Sure sounds like the issue

#386 3 years ago
Quoted from lincolnv:

Thanks for the reply, Quench. Can i replace it with a disc capacitor .047 100v?

I can't see the "CPx" capacitors on the schematics so likely it's just a power decoupling capacitor. The board will work without it so for now just add the correct value capacitor to your shopping list on your next electronic parts order.

#387 3 years ago
Quoted from lincolnv:

I recently purchased a City Slicker, the game is in great shape, but I need help IDing this missing component on the sound board at cp3?
[quoted image]

There is a service bulletin about the capacitor at C30.
You must remove this cap to make sure it does not hurt the DAC.
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/images/5/50/BallyAD7533DACFailureServiceBulletin.pdf
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally_6803#TCS_.28Turbo_Cheap_Squeak.29_Board

#388 3 years ago

I must come clean! I believe the flipper wiring was incorrect.

I purchased the game from a well known operator and thought there was no way the wiring was incorrect however it was. I also replaced the EOS switch with a new switch and i cut the capacitor on the EOS.

I’ll attach a photo of how it was wired before.
Game seems to be good now.

On to the next issue

I noticed that with these 6803 games seem to have sticky flippers at times. The nylon sleeve is new along with the coil sleeve and spring however i still get the flipper to stick in the up position at times. Anyone have a good fix for this? The plastic bushing looks to be in good shape as well.

1BA26953-81FE-4762-843B-5FBDC5AB1A37 (resized).jpeg1BA26953-81FE-4762-843B-5FBDC5AB1A37 (resized).jpeg
#389 3 years ago

Is the flipper dragging on the playfield?

#390 3 years ago
Quoted from Jason43:

Is the flipper dragging on the playfield?

No not dragging.

I did swap to the newer style Williams flipper bats but still using the 6803 plungers and such.

Game will eventually make it on route so want to use the newer style flipper bats.

#391 3 years ago
Quoted from V8haha:

I must come clean! I believe the flipper wiring was incorrect.
I purchased the game from a well known operator and thought there was no way the wiring was incorrect however it was. I also replaced the EOS switch with a new switch and i cut the capacitor on the EOS.
I’ll attach a photo of how it was wired before.
Game seems to be good now.
On to the next issue
I noticed that with these 6803 games seem to have sticky flippers at times. The nylon sleeve is new along with the coil sleeve and spring however i still get the flipper to stick in the up position at times. Anyone have a good fix for this? The plastic bushing looks to be in good shape as well.
[quoted image]

The plunger ends mushroom after years of hitting the backstop, file or polish out the burr

#392 3 years ago
Quoted from Rossc:

The plunger ends mushroom after years of hitting the backstop, file or polish out the burr

Plunger and coil stop looked great however i did notice this small bur.

I replaced with a new plunger we will see if it fixes the issue.

Thank you for all your help!

51B47105-7784-4619-97A6-2EF06006E930 (resized).png51B47105-7784-4619-97A6-2EF06006E930 (resized).png
#393 3 years ago

Greetings fellow 6803 fans. Are their any Blackwater 100 owners out there that can look at something for me? If i read the schematics right, several (though not all) of the playfield switches on this game have capacitors on them. I am tearing into a game now and none of the switches on mine have them. The switches all look original, and I can see no sign of any having been clipped off. As long as I have this playfield out and in easy workable condition, I was wondering if I should put them on. Would anyone mind checking theirs for me? Per the manual, the drop targets, rain, fastline, top right/left loop, cold, wet, rocky rapids, and a couple others should all have them. It doesn't look like outlane rollovers or slingshots do.

Thanks!

Aaron

#394 3 years ago
Quoted from Goonie:

Greetings fellow 6803 fans. Are their any Blackwater 100 owners out there that can look at something for me? If i read the schematics right, several (though not all) of the playfield switches on this game have capacitors on them. I am tearing into a game now and none of the switches on mine have them. The switches all look original, and I can see no sign of any having been clipped off. As long as I have this playfield out and in easy workable condition, I was wondering if I should put them on. Would anyone mind checking theirs for me? Per the manual, the drop targets, rain, fastline, top right/left loop, cold, wet, rocky rapids, and a couple others should all have them. It doesn't look like outlane rollovers or slingshots do.
Thanks!
Aaron

Don’t know Blackwater but in general caps are necessary on 6803 playfield switches that can take fast hits so they register properly. Otherwise, the switch may not always register. For that reason, I wouldn’t think they would be needed on drop targets, but definitely needed on stand up targets and some other switches. My game uses 0.47 caps.

Edit: 0.047 uF

#395 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

My game uses 0.47 caps

You mean 0.047uF caps

#396 3 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

You mean 0.047uF caps

Oops. Correct!

#397 3 years ago

Yeah, my thought was to put them on regardless, as i figure it couldn't hurt. I just found it odd that it didn't seem to have any and thought perhaps it was intentional on this game. I also found it odd that the manual notes the drop targets as having them.

I also found it interesting that the service bulletin mentioned in post #387 notes the Sounds Deluxe Board (#A084-91864) as recommending C12 be pulled out, but doesn't list Blackwater 100. My game has that board with C12 populated. The manual notes that the board may or may not have it, so I think I will take it out and see what happens. I can always put it back in.

#398 3 years ago

I’ve heard a lot of operators may have clipped out the caps because they cause shorts and people playing on location seldom notice missing switch hits.

#399 3 years ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

I’ve heard a lot of operators may have clipped out the caps because they cause shorts and people playing on location seldom notice missing switch hits.

I've heard the same. I suppose it's possible that someone removed them with a soldering iron, and not just clipped them, leaving no evidence behind.

#400 3 years ago

My EBC had problems with quick hits on the paddles behind drop downs and rollovers until I replaced the caps. Drop downs stay down, so they always scored. I also had a cap that would cause a rollover to randomly score 30 times, so I can see why someone might decide to just cut them out. No score on occasion is better than a million unearned points.

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Tools
Nezzy's Pinball Prints
Tools
$ 18.95
Eproms
Pinballrom
Eproms
$ 1.00
Pinball Machine
Pinball Alley
Pinball Machine
$ 1.00
Pinball Machine
Pinball Alley
Pinball Machine
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