Thanks Quench continuity is intact throughout the circuit and from top to bottom of the board.
I'm going to put the crystal back in, and order a new LM3900N and TDA2002V along with the trimmer pot, I probably don't need them now, but since I have to pay shipping I might as well cover my bases.

Selling my original Motordome backglass, the machine I have for sale will ship with a new translite instead.

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Looking for the pop bumper switches for Bally Atlantis - can't seem to find the part number in the manual. Anyone have a link to them by chance?

The spoon switch?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/ASW-A110-5

Think that's the one, thank you!

Quench resoldered the crystal, replaced the trim pot, and the 2002 Op Amp, and reflowed the LM3900N.
And I've got sound, really good sound(for Spy Hunter anyway).
As always, thanks again for your help! If you are ever in Austin let me know.

I know it's a different game, but my D&D has always sounded a bit scratchy, even after new capacitors. That old needle across a bad spot on the vinyl album sound. Not overall, but at times when it's doing the match option for a credit at the end of a game.

During play it sounds fine. The boards in the backbox all look good. I had the 6803 benched by eldoradogames (my XPIN issue), replaced all caps on all boards, and basically rebuilt the SDB.

If that's the only time I hear some scratching in the sound, I'm not going to worry about it. I'm sure there will be enough issues to deal with going into the future anyway

Cross posting this from the D&D thread in case you guys have any input. A full plunge on the skill shot is not supposed to start multiball or playfield X but it is.

Still having problems with a full plunge starting multiball. Happens sometimes with 1 ball locked but nearly always with two balls locked. I've rebuilt the switches for the two gates in the back (skill 3 top and the next one after it) with completely with new leafs, caps and diodes. The first two skill shots I put new caps in and everything seems to be firing as it should in switch test. The three lights flash on the ramp so they are all getting hit before the ball goes behind the backbox. It's almost like there is another playfield switch being validated between skill 3 and the ramp exit switch or something but I can't get it figured out. Anybody have any ideas?

I dont know if this is regular behavior but when the glass is off and I have the ball off of the playfield the two ball capture coils each pulse for a split second about every 5 seconds or so, like the game is making sure they are up or something. Is this normal? All the switches seem to be working correctly in switch test including the 4 switches related to the ball captures and skill shot.

To be clear the "summon help" light is not lit before the plunge so the playfield isn't starting validated or anything like that.

Yeah, I got a buddy that has a nice D&D, but it pitches serious fits all the time... Hopefully you will have better luck then him!

Finished up installing led bulbs in Blackwater. This has to be the absolute worst game to change out bulbs so far. Don't know how the guys worked on these when on route. Probably didn't the way the bulbs were all bad. Looks nicer now.

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Same with my Black Belt... looks great with LEDs in it, but holy moley what a pain to change them out...

Truck stop bulb changing was probly just as bad. All Led now

Game is really finicky with what bulb I put in as well. Tried using up some old stock colored bulbs for the inserts. Didn't like them in some instances. Had to change out a few fixtures as well since they broke trying to get the bulbs in.

A little late to the party here, but glad to see the love for 6803’s. I have two in my collection right now. Blackwater and Beat the Clock. Was lucky enough to find an NOS Beat the Clock Playfield. Currently getting touched up and cleared. Going to do a complete overhaul of this pin. Project for sure, but got attached to this pin during my local arcade days. Nice to have these in the basement to play whenever. In the market for a very decent backglass and very good plastic set for Beat the Clock. Any leads let me know. Thanks all and stay healthy.

Any Party Animal owners who are KLOV members?

Maybe you could jump over there and post a qualifying score for Party Animal in the RGP/KLOV Tournament?

https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?p=4143273#post4143273

Tournament rules here:

http://tinyurl.com/7zpynww

Thanks,
Bob

Anyone ever take the head off of a 6803? Any tips for putting one back together?

I just got an Eight Ball Champ, wahoo! My first 6803.

Having a few issues -

1) when going into test mode, I get 94, with a 13 which I think means that the right rollover switch is closed, however, that switch is definitely NOT closed.
2) The top score displays have the far left digit ghosting on, with a comma. The credit/ball and 2 lower displays don't seem to have any issue.
3) When starting a game, no ball is sent to the shooter lane, flippers dont work, have to just reset the game, and it goes to attract more no problem.
4) On boot, it says "8 Balllll...3 ball" (not sure if thats an indication of an issue)

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance!

-MikeP

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RESOLVED (MOSTLY)I just got an Eight Ball Champ, wahoo! My first 6803.
Having a few issues -
1) when going into test mode, I get 94, with a 13 which I think means that the right rollover switch is closed, however, that switch is definitely NOT closed. THIS WAS DUE TO THE CAPACITORS ON MULTIPLE SWITCHES
2) The top score displays have the far left digit ghosting on, with a comma. The credit/ball and 2 lower displays don't seem to have any issue. ISSUE ON THE DISPLAY (4542 IC or level/shifter)
3) When starting a game, no ball is sent to the shooter lane, flippers dont work, have to just reset the game, and it goes to attract more no problem. THIS WAS DUE TO THE TILT SWITCH BEING CLOSED
4) On boot, it says "8 Balllll...3 ball" (not sure if thats an indication of an issue) NON ISSUE
Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance!

Check your high voltage at the power supply.

The call at the boot is to indicate the game is set on 3 balls per game.
If you change it to 5 balls per game it will say, "8 Balllll...5 ball"

As for the closed switch 13, you may need to replace the small cap at the switch.
It is common to get shorted.

Burned some serious midnight oil tonight, and FINALLY getting Black Belt put back together after I'd stripped it down forever ago. (Seriously, it was December 2018 when I tore it down.) Sure, somewhere in there I gave it the cleaning and waxing and repairs it desperately needed ... and rebuilt the flippers ... but then it sat and sat waiting for the PF rebuild. Got the whole lower level put back together tonight; tomorrow (hopefully) the ramp & plastics! Once it's reassembled, then i have a connector harness to repin, a transistor to replace, and then I can bug you for help exorcising its last few demons.
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Inkochnito Ah, ok. I tested continuity between the 2 leaves of that switch and it tested open. Would that still be the case if that capacitor was bad? I also disconnected the playfield switch connector at the cpu and I now get a 15 (tilt) switch is closed. I also checked continuity on the 3 tilt mechs that I could find and they were all open.

Hey fellow 6803ers ... I finally finished getting my Black Belt back together so I'm ready to start on the technical stuff, but it's already throwing me curve balls... particularly that little cube Solenoid Expander relay under the PF (at least, I think that's part of the problem)... please see new thread at https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/1986-black-belt-karate-fight-relay-lights-gone-wild-

Thanks!

I'm back in the 6803 club!
I was in it before with a Party Animal, but I had sold it a little while ago to buy a different pin.
Now I'm back in the club as I just brought home an Escape From the Lost World.
Its not perfect, but its pretty decent. Looking at it, it currently needs a cleaning, LEDs, a new front lock, and the multiball kicker is constantly firing. I'm sure once I dive into it I'll find other things, but that's what I'm starting with.
I'm pretty happy to be back in the 6803 club.

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Welcome back. Never know what you've got till it's gone!

EFTLW is a great, underrated game. Congrats

I'm in the club.
I have a Special Force and a
party animal . Currently neither one is set up because I set other games to sell in the limited space I have.

I dont think I will part with special force.
Party animal is fun too but I will probably trade or sell it.

Special Force was the first pin I got. I keep saying I’m going to sell it some day, but it is so damn fun.

Picked up a Special Force 2 weeks ago from a prior owner who said it wouldn’t coin up. Of course it just needed to be factory reset to get it running again then replace a couple blown SCRs. Having been in a garage in South SF for the past 30 years the side rails, coin door and legs had significant surface rust. I opted to paint the rails and coin door green to give the machine a little character as opposed to the drab black. This is my first 6803 game and I’m pretty impressed by this architecture, a big improvement over the system in my M&MPM. I am nearing the end of my punch list and it is playing really nice after cleaning 30+ years of carbon buildup from under the playfield!

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I couldn’t agree more, I thought M&MPM was PITA to relamp but my Special Force takes the cake as the worst machine to upgrade to LED!

I need your expertise, please.

Party Animal (not mine). When you turn it on, the tune plays, playfield lights flash and attract mode works okay. Won't respond to the start button, or the test button inside the door.

Easiest things to check first:

Coin door harness unplugged maybe?
Or maybe connector CJ-3 in back box.
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Thanks for getting back to me.

Coin door harness is connected (the lights behind the coin slots are on). I have checked the test switch with a multimeter, it's fine. I have reseated CJ-3 - it's keyed, so it can't be on the wrong way. I've confirmed continuity between the test switch and pin 1 of CJ-3.

Perhaps the EPROMs could do with reflashing.

So my new to me escape from the lost world has me stumped, and I’m hoping someone here might be able to offer ideas on what to maybe check.
Both LEDs on the kicker sensor board are working now, but the problem remains. On start up, it flashes multi ball 2, and the multiball coil Keeps Constantly firing. The only time it stops is if I unplug the sensor board that works with the led board. I took a picture to show which board I mean. Has anyone here dealt with something similar?
Another odd piece to the puzzle, is it did work once, in between this constantly happening. My son and I played several games perfectly. Then the next time u started it up, it happened again and hasn’t stopped.
Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

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I’m not familiar with the game or the purpose of that board, but I had a similarly intermittent issue with my solenoid expander relay board on my Special Force. It was cold solder joints at the pins and reflowing the solder fixed the issue. Again, I’m not familiar with the specifics here, but thought I would mention it in case the joints on that board look cracked.

Check both boards (emitter and detector) for bad solder joints.
Reflow them all.
Check the header pins and connector crimps.

Check the cpu board for bad header pins.
Specialy J5 (5V source for the emitter/detector boards).

Thanks for commenting!
It was a combo of a poor Optic led and A poor connection at the j5 connector. It’s flipping again now.

I am shopping out a Party Animal.

The star posts are all the taller 1-3/16" kind.

My two favorite places to buy stuff from (Pinball Life and Marco) do not carry this. Instead they only have the more common 1-1/16" kind.

Does anyone know where to buy the 1-3/16" BLUE star posts?

Actually, it turns out Marco does have them:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8370-10

I have posted this elsewhere, but if you find yourself in a jam, call Clive at the Coin Op Cauldron. I do my own repairs if there are only 1 or 2 things wrong with my 6803, but he got me out of a pickle where absolutely nothing worked. 6803 control boards that are not filled with corrosion and/or non-operational are hard to find.

I'm looking for a standard width lockdown bar!

anyone got pic of the blackwater 100 switch matrix? both flippers and the upper playfield BIG target is firing the right sling.

The Operating and Parts manual is available from the ipdb.
https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=319

I am testing a Party Animal... in switch test mode... and as I test the various switches, often the game is detecting another switch along with the one I am testing.

It always seems to be another switch in the same ROW as the one I am testing.

It doesn't always happen and it is not consistent. The only consistency is that the phantom switch is somewhere on the same ROW in the matrix.

This is happening on multiple rows.

Examples:

Press Right Outlane and Top Left Saucer sometimes triggers.
Press Right Return and Right Sling or Pigout U sometimes triggers.
Press Right Sling and Pigout U or Tune 2 Middle sometimes triggers.
Press Left Sling and Pigout T sometimes triggers.
Press Toad and Right Outlane sometimes triggers.
Press Rebound and sometimes Right Outlane triggers.

Since it's all over the place, it leads me to think that it's not just one diode. Is there something bigger to look at when this type of situation happens?

Have a nice working Bally 6803 Pinball Power Supply Module for sale $75 plus shipping PM me for pics or details.

Are there other switches closed when it happens? A shorted diode will create a perfect rectangle of closed switches on the switch matrix. In other words, if two are closed, and you press a third, a fourth will trigger making a rectangle. Multiple rectangles with one switch in common can point to a shorted diode on that switch.

If no rectangles, then perhaps check for a short to ground. That can cause similar issues with multiple switches in a row triggering. Or, perhaps it is one or more caps failing. Bad caps can cause weird issues in the matrix within rows.

I assume PA has the same capacitor-on-switch setup as other 6803 games. If they are still original, it is probably time to swap them out for new. Bad caps made my 6803 machine do some pretty goofy stuff. Had to clear my high score after first ball once...

Yes. 11 switches in the matrix have capacitors on Party Animal.

The schematic says "ALL CAPACITORS ARE .05 MF"

I have some capacitors on hand that are .047 uF (which is the same as 47 nF). I think these are the correct kind to use... can anyone confirm?

I had the same question and were told they are essentially interchangeable.

need a 6803 mpu if anyone got one laying around. all the normal folks are sold out.

I am having similar issues as you on blackwater. I went through today and started replacing diodes on suspect switches i am having problems with. Fixed them all my switch issues except for one. I did replace the diode on the switch that is also firing the right sling. So I guess I will replace the cap on that one next and see what happens.