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(Topic ID: 235022)

Bally 6803 Club - All Welcome


By gweempose

2 years ago

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Topic Stats

  • 414 posts
  • 84 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 11 days ago by Rossc
  • Topic is favorited by 41 Pinsiders

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There are 414 posts in this topic. You are on page 4 of 9.
#151 1 year ago
Quoted from woody76:

its a fun game. Rebuild the lower flippers first thing.

I’ve read that in several spots that this game is horrible for flippers. Complete flipper assemblies (with coils) are planned.

#152 1 year ago

the link provided didn’t take me to a usable location. Any change you could try again? Though I went to the “IPDB” site For the copy I have with the missing pages. Humm...

#153 1 year ago

I replaced the original with this, back in 2009.

IMG_20200205_1227370451 (resized).jpg
#154 1 year ago

Is there some kind of generic bally 6803 book that details all the parts used in all the bally machines of this era?
I'm struggling to find part numbers to order simple things, like coil stops and playfield parts.

#156 1 year ago
Quoted from jcar302:

Is there some kind of generic bally 6803 book that details all the parts used in all the bally machines of this era?
I'm struggling to find part numbers to order simple things, like coil stops and playfield parts.

I’m struggling with this too. I have the parts book, but they list “13-digit” part numbers for everything and none of those numbers come up in the online parts stores like Planetry, Pinball life, Marco, etc. Is there a conversation I need to do or only search on specific digits? Most parts I’m looking for I think are pretty common; flipper rebuild, switches, and ball guides. What are you experienced guys doing with these long 13 digit hyphenated Bally parts book numbers?

#157 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballRusch:

I’m struggling with this too. I have the parts book, but they list “13-digit” part numbers for everything and none of those numbers come up in the online parts stores like Planetry, Pinball life, Marco, etc. Is there a conversation I need to do or only search on specific digits? Most parts I’m looking for I think are pretty common; flipper rebuild, switches, and ball guides. What are you experienced guys doing with these long 13 digit hyphenated Bally parts book numbers?

You might try googling those part numbers, maybe adding pinball or Bally or whatever before the part number. I have found that for sites like Marco, it's best to search by game and see what you get.

#158 1 year ago
Quoted from jlbintn:

You might try googling those part numbers, maybe adding pinball or Bally or whatever before the part number. I have found that for sites like Marco, it's best to search by game and see what you get.

There is amost nothing on Marcos for blackbelt. If you expand the flipper rebuilt kit pics on Marcos you can figure out some more part numbers though.

#159 1 year ago
Quoted from jlbintn:

You might try googling those part numbers, maybe adding pinball or Bally or whatever before the part number. I have found that for sites like Marco, it's best to search by game and see what you get.

I searched Google with Bally and the 13 digit part number. I was pleasantly surprised how many items came up! Only thing I couldn’t find was a wire form ball guide (glorified super thick staple) and I think I’ll just make one and have it powder coated with my other parts from the game.
Thanks for the tip! I would have never thought Google would find these numbers on the same pin parts sites where I already used their search. These same parts also were not cataloged against “game specific” category... so Google to the rescue once again!

#160 1 year ago

I just got a super nice d&d but it seems like the solenoids are all weak especially the flippers. This is my first 6803 Bally’s but I have had a lot of system 11s which is a similar era and their clippers are much stronger. I assume there is an issue. Is there something I can check out?

#161 1 year ago

The linear flipper mechs are really shitty and prone to get sloppy. Might just need a rebuild kit (or replace with the previous mech style) if your power looks right.

#162 1 year ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

The linear flipper mechs are really shitty and prone to get sloppy. Might just need a rebuild kit (or replace with the previous mech style) if your power looks right.

Thanks, have you or anyone changes the them out to Williams mechs?

#163 1 year ago

I think people mostly convert to the previous bally style, maybe someone else can chime in.

#164 1 year ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

I think people mostly convert to the previous bally style, maybe someone else can chime in.

Is there a popular assembly that can still be purchased ?
My Special Force flippers are still kinda lame after a rebuild.

Thx.

#165 1 year ago

Pinball life sells the linear rebuild kits. From my experience, I recommend staying with the original mech design. The solid clack of the linear mech has a completely different feel then the fiberboard eyelet on the old style plungers. The recommendations to convert were out of necessity back in the day when you couldn’t get parts. Now we have access to almost everything you need.

Most weak flippers on bally linear flipper mechs end up being mushroomed coilstop and plunger or loose assembly. Bally uses a spring washer on its coils to help keep tension and I have seen more then once where someone removed it “fixing” a game and never put it back. Over time the coil rattles a bit loosening the button on the coilstop causing it and the plunger to mushroom and deform. This in turn causes the nylon bushing on the paw to run crooked causing friction and all this robs power from the flipper.

The single most important thing in a pinball is the flippers. If they suck, the game sucks no matter what. With all the money we spend on games, spend the $100 at most (4 flipper game) and see how the game played new. You would be surprised.

For those of you saying you can’t feel difference, go play Bally’s truck stop. It uses both bally flipper mechs on the top flippers and Williams mechs on the bottom. Yes, you can feel a difference!

#166 1 year ago

The white circular part in the link gets out of round, wears faster, and is the bigger weak link (harhar) than the metal parts IMO

#167 1 year ago

I can say from my recent experience that you can rest assured that the coil stops and sleeves are messed up.
Will that fix that issues? Not sure, we will see in a few days when my parts come.
But bally must have just threaded the screws in the plates to hold the stops on, but on every flipper on my machine they are stripped.
The plates are all mushroomed and deformed from being loose.
I added 10-32's with nylon nuts, but it made one chatter when it bottoms out, so I bit the bullet and bought all new plates.

#168 1 year ago

I have two Bally 6803 MPU boards for sale.
The only drawback is that I live at the other side of the Atlantic Ocean.
Shipping to the US would be around 35 euro.
Look on my website http://www.inkochnito.nl and click on the Bridge Board image.

#169 1 year ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

The white circular part in the link gets out of round, wears faster, and is the bigger weak link (harhar) than the metal parts IMO

With all the repro plastic and 3D printed stuff, it seems silly to chuck the entire piece for the nylon that has worn out. This seems like a gold mine in the making for someone willing to remake them in a stiffer plastic and offer a rivet kit to reattach to the pawl.

#170 1 year ago

Also, check the frames mounted to the playfield, where the flipper mechanism's are mounted. A loose or stripped screw can cause funky issues with flipper action, including them getting stuck in the open position above the playfield. I recently had this issue with the lower right flipper on my D&D. I had a spare frame mount, swapped it out, and no problems since.

Also, the mount with the stripped screw hole.... I reversed the mounting hardware on that frame and now I have a spare left side flipper playfield frame.

#171 1 year ago
Quoted from Tallon:

Bally uses a spring washer on its coils to help keep tension

My coils are definitely loose, who has a parts diagram with washer position and part number?

Thanks.

#172 1 year ago

Wondering if anyone here has a scan of the generic Bally/Midway cabinet art? Color is not important. PM me if you happen to have a file. Vectorized would be a bonus!

John

#173 1 year ago
Quoted from pinfixer:

Wondering if anyone here has a scan of the generic Bally/Midway cabinet art? Color is not important. PM me if you happen to have a file.

PM me your address, the files I have are 90MB, won't fit an email, I'll put in a drop box for you.

#174 1 year ago

Since we're talking about flippers and ball action coming off of the flippers, I am curious to know if anybody else is having launch issues off of a stand-up target hit from either flipper?

Sometimes, in our D&D, a drop target hit off of the flippers sends the ball flying up over the plastic on the sides of the playfield and drains the ball.

#175 1 year ago
Quoted from jlbintn:

Since we're talking about flippers and ball action coming off of the flippers, I am curious to know if anybody else is having launch issues off of a stand-up target hit from either flipper?
Sometimes, in our D&D, a drop target hit off of the flippers sends the ball flying up over the plastic on the sides of the playfield and drains the ball.

Oh yeah. If you D&D is dialed in your gonna get a tom of airballs. Try clearcoating the playfield and see what happens

#176 1 year ago

I dont have airball issues on my D&D. Was going to say standup backing is worn but turns out mine are about completely gone! Maybe uneven inserts?

#177 1 year ago

I've had 7 of them and every time you get the Mylar polished, clearcoat the field, or get it stripped down and good wax applied, I get airballs on all of them.

#178 1 year ago

Why you have you had 7 D&Ds? I feel like you could have figured out you liked it enough by your 4th or 5th acquisition

#179 1 year ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Why you have you had 7 D&Ds? I feel like you could have figured out you liked it enough by your 4th or 5th acquisition

Lol. Been doing this a while and that’s the one game that keeps showing up at my door. Most of the time it’s a dead one and I get it cheap because no one likes working on the 6803s. Last one I sold because the buyer wanted a really nice one and offered good money. Then a buddy of mine sold a complete train wreck to be because he knew I could fix it and make it nice. And I did.

#180 1 year ago
Quoted from Tallon:

Lol. Been doing this a while and that’s the one game that keeps showing up at my door. Most of the time it’s a dead one and I get it cheap because no one likes working on the 6803s. Last one I sold because the buyer wanted a really nice one and offered good money. Then a buddy of mine sold a complete train wreck to be because he knew I could fix it and make it nice. And I did.

That’s awesome you had 7, they are really hard to find. I think it’s a great pin but I do need to get clay over to help me get my coils stronger. Everything seems really weak and I can’t figure it out.

#181 1 year ago
Quoted from Tallon:

Lol. Been doing this a while and that’s the one game that keeps showing up at my door. Most of the time it’s a dead one and I get it cheap because no one likes working on the 6803s. Last one I sold because the buyer wanted a really nice one and offered good money. Then a buddy of mine sold a complete train wreck to be because he knew I could fix it and make it nice. And I did.

I think I have had like 10 silverball mania's. Weird how a machine can follow you around.

#182 1 year ago
Quoted from woody76:

I think I have had like 10 silverball mania's. Weird how a machine can follow you around.

I've had probably 25 Eight Ball Deluxe over the years. Know the feeling! Wish I had em back! LOL

#183 1 year ago
Quoted from pinfixer:

I've had probably 25 Eight Ball Deluxe over the years. Know the feeling! Wish I had em back! LOL

yea, I have several of those as well. I got one free about 4 years ago.

#184 1 year ago

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/black-belts-only-not-really/page/2#post-5469994

If any of the 6803 experts could help me out, i'd appreciate it.

#185 1 year ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

I dont have airball issues on my D&D. Was going to say standup backing is worn but turns out mine are about completely gone! Maybe uneven inserts?

The inserts are fine relative to the stand-up targets. The inserts I replaced were not those in front of either bank of targets. The arrow inserts going into both lair traps, and up the ramp for the skill shot are the inserts I replaced. While I don't need to clear coat it (although that is a good suggestion that leads to a lot of work ), I have kept it clean and waxed. I rebuilt all three flippers late last summer, and that's when the airball phenom took off....

edit to add:

interestingly enough, at various and sundry times the ball launches to the left side of the game and rolls down the drain alley so hard, it bounces up in front of the flippers.....

SAVE!!!!!!!!!

#186 1 year ago

My d & ds power issue has been fixed. This pin packs a punch. I can hit every shot and it does create airballs. Definitely glad to own one even if the family decides they don’t love it. Now it’s time to let them play it tonight and hopefully it stays in the line up for a while!

#187 1 year ago
Quoted from Happy81724:

My d & ds power issue has been fixed. This pin packs a punch. I can hit every shot and it does create airballs. Definitely glad to own one even if the family decides they don’t love it. Now it’s time to let them play it tonight and hopefully it stays in the line up for a while!

How did you resolve it?

On another note, anyone know what diode is on the light sockets?

I have 2 bulbs that don't work (both arrows going to the ramp ends) and each one has a wire that leds to another bulb. I feel like I shouldn't assume anything with a bally 6803 at this point, but without broken grounds, I would think that both bulbs would work at the same time.

#188 1 year ago
Quoted from jcar302:

On another note, anyone know what diode is on the light sockets?

The diode used is a 1N4001 or 1N4004, even a 1N4007 will work.

Quoted from jcar302:

I have 2 bulbs that don't work (both arrows going to the ramp ends) and each one has a wire that leds to another bulb. I feel like I shouldn't assume anything with a bally 6803 at this point, but without broken grounds, I would think that both bulbs would work at the same time.

There are two lamps on each SCR. One is working on the A phase and one is working on the B phase.
I've made a Tech Chart for Black Belt.
You can download it from my website.
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Bally_Black_Belt_Tech_Chart.pdf
Can you point out which lamps are involved?
I think one of the SCR's is broken or you have a bad solder joint at the board.

Peter

#189 1 year ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

The diode used is a 1N4001 or 1N4004, even a 1N4007 will work.

There are two lamps on each SCR. One is working on the A phase and one is working on the B phase.
I've made a Tech Chart for Black Belt.
You can download it from my website.
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Bally_Black_Belt_Tech_Chart.pdf
Can you point out which lamps are involved?
I think one of the SCR's is broken or you have a bad solder joint at the board.
Peter

Thanks peter, fixed it last night. Turned out to be the sockets themselves.
I have your site bookmarked and I had printed out your tech charts.
Thanks for making them.
I've fixed like 20 machines, including a gottlieb (but mostly all Williams) and this bally makes me feel like i'm starting all over.
The two phase thing is confusing and I really can't figure out how it works (I know it does, just doesn't make total sense to me personally).

Each time I goto put the glass on, something else pops up.
Now the right lower flipper chatters.
New coil stop and sleeve.
Resoldered a bunch of bad soldering.
Still the same, i'll clean and adjust the switches, maybe that will work.

#190 1 year ago
Quoted from jcar302:

Thanks peter, fixed it last night. Turned out to be the sockets themselves.
I have your site bookmarked and I had printed out your tech charts.
Thanks for making them.

You're welcome.
Just spread the word and send a donation.

Quoted from jcar302:

I've fixed like 20 machines, including a gottlieb (but mostly all Williams) and this bally makes me feel like i'm starting all over.
The two phase thing is confusing and I really can't figure out how it works (I know it does, just doesn't make total sense to me personally).

Every system is an adventure. Allthough the 6803 system is a bit the same style as the older AS-2518-35 system if you look closely.
The two phase system in quite ingenius.
If you want to know, send me a PM.

Quoted from jcar302:

Each time I goto put the glass on, something else pops up.
Now the right lower flipper chatters.
New coil stop and sleeve.
Resoldered a bunch of bad soldering.
Still the same, i'll clean and adjust the switches, maybe that will work.

The hold winding is interrupted.
Replace the coil or look for the break.
Usualy at the solder connections.

Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl

#191 1 year ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

You're welcome.
Just spread the word and send a donation.

Every system is an adventure. Allthough the 6803 system is a bit the same style as the older AS-2518-35 system if you look closely.
The two phase system in quite ingenius.
If you want to know, send me a PM.

The hold winding is interrupted.
Replace the coil or look for the break.
Usualy at the solder connections.
Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl

Yup, I fixed it last night. The hold wire was off.

I feel like soldering on this machine is a real pain too.
The original owner must have felt the same way judging by all their piss poor soldering jobs.

Also installed the weebly.nvran expander board, after manually dropping the ball into the kicker about 50 times, I've yet to have an issue. I guess the old one was really shot.

#192 1 year ago

Anyone know the part number to the double cabinet switches, diodes and capacitors? While I know I could reuse the diode and capacitor, i'm tired of having to be careful not to damage them with no spares.
My right lower flipper still feels a little weak (oddly enough, the top right, easily slaps the ball around the ramp with a good hit).
I'm getting there, game plays pretty good, but I just can't shake that feeling that flipper should be better.
It already has a new sleeve and coil stop.

#193 1 year ago

So I replaced the double eos switch on the weak flipper with a new one. No change.
I then replaced the coil (I had already changed the sleeve and coil stop) with an A-24-570/34-3600 which is what was on the left side. Marcos was out of stock on what I though went on the right (seems some info says it's supposed to be this coil I just used and other info suggests the one in there was right).
Massive difference in play.

I can now hit the left orbit and spinner at speed. Not once before the change did I get it to go all the way around.

#194 1 year ago

Could someone here tell me what the component on X1 of a cheap squeak board is? I've googled the part number on it but nothing pops up at all, the schematics I've found seem to say 3.58 MHZ(I think the scans I found are pretty rough...) but that's all I could find.
Thanks!

#195 1 year ago
Quoted from buffaloatx:

Could someone here tell me what the component on X1 of a cheap squeak board is?

It's a 3.58Mhz Crystal.

Based on the schematics, you probably need one with a "Load Capacitance" specification between 16pf and 18pf but I can't find anyone stocking them.

Mouser has one with a 20pf load capacitance spec:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/449-LFXTAL013586BULK

Using this ^^^ crystal will ideally require you to change capacitors C5 and C6 on the board from 27pf to 33pf. Then again you could probably install the crystal as is and it will work fine, hard to say.

Jameco has 3.579Mhz crystals in both 16pf and 18pf load capacitance spec:
https://www.jameco.com/z/1L-5561-001-04-Low-Profile-Crystal-3-579545-MHz-16pF_2281063.html
https://www.jameco.com/z/CY3-57-3-579545MHz-HC49-U-and-HC18-U-Crystal_14533.html

You won't notice any difference using the 3.579Mhz crystals.

Note your sound board will have a physically larger crystal than what you buy off the shelf today but there's a good chance the board will already support smaller size crystals with closer leg spacing

#196 1 year ago

Thanks Quench This board has always had some issues with "scratchy" sound and sound that dropped out from time to time, most of which I contributed to the POT being "bad".
But the other day all sound stopped, usually I could wiggle the POT and it would come back, but not this time.
The more I looked at the board the more potential problems I saw, including the crystal that somehow pulled its self out of it's through hole, and looks like it may have taken it out with the leg.
I was hoping this would be a quick deal, but now I'm not so sure.

Cheap 1 (resized).jpegCheap 2 (resized).jpegCheap 3 (resized).jpeg
#197 1 year ago
Quoted from buffaloatx:

The more I looked at the board the more potential problems I saw, including the crystal that somehow pulled its self out of it's through hole, and looks like it may have taken it out with the leg.

Looks to me like the leg is still attached to the crystal - you can't just resolder it in?

Did that explosion on the board happen before or after your sound issues started?

#198 1 year ago

The leg is still attached to the crystal, I was worried that the trough hole was pulled out and that it may have been damaged when it broke loose and was vibrating around touching things is probably shouldn't touch.

The sound issues have been there since I bought the game (in a non working state years ago, I just never tried to fix it since it mostly worked, most of the time) The burnt up stuff was also there when I bought it, and was repaired at some point by someone.

I took the pot off the board and am looking for a new one, I know its a 1k ohm trim pot, any idea what wattage I should use? I've seen from .5 watt to 2 watt.

#199 1 year ago

Ready to print as 4x6 photo. Look awesome! agodfrey did these for me.

CP-Fsq84 (resized).jpegTMtmCBRI (resized).jpeg
#200 1 year ago
Quoted from buffaloatx:

The leg is still attached to the crystal, I was worried that the trough hole was pulled out and that it may have been damaged when it broke loose and was vibrating around touching things is probably shouldn't touch.

In that case I'd remove the crystal and inspect the traces. Check if there's continuity from front to back of the board via the though holes and repair where necessary.

Quoted from buffaloatx:

I took the pot off the board and am looking for a new one, I know its a 1k ohm trim pot, any idea what wattage I should use? I've seen from .5 watt to 2 watt.

A 0.5 watt trimmer pot should be plenty fine.

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