Fortunately i do have a complete (at least i think complete) set of the original schematics. I mean those fold-out pages which contain the schematics. One of those is 'glued' to a manual but perhaps i can find a way to pry it loose. When i've scanned some of these pages i'll share them here so you can see if this is a good way/scan.

Thank you both. I was very fortunate back in early 2007, when I found an actual bonafide original Fireball II manual. And that was after I found a very very good high quality copy. The only difference between the original and the copy are the foldouts.

Both very readable though.

But this D&D copy and everyone I have found....

Craptastic

Hey Peter,

I have an Eight Ball Champ that suddenly began playing the wrong voice and sound calls. I cannot find much(any) troubleshooting documentation for this issue.

Do you have any suggestions on where to look?

Thanks,
Shawn

I would replace U16, the inverter (4049) chip.
Or you are missing a data line.

Bally_AS-2518-61_S&T_Soundboard (resized).jpg

Thanks!

Any hints on how to check the data lines.

http://www.pinrepair.com/6803/

you can start there, if you already have not done so. Peter's site is pretty good as well. Eight Ball Champ seems to be a popular 6803 era pin. Some of it you can do with a DMM, but a logic probe is better, and knowledge of using a scope would be a plus.

Plus a test bench setup as described at that site. I'm not there yet myself, but you can get by (sort of) with just a DMM and a logic probe. But as others have pointed out (in my XPIN problem thread) you can't beat a good testing setup.

Hope that helps somewhat.

Clay’s guides are my Bible, but 6803 is not his best chapter. There is hardly any content at all for S&T troubleshooting.

I’m ok with a logic probe, but the schematics offer little help on where to find the sound triggers.

Happy to join the club! Pulled a Hard Body out of the basement of a non-collector. They only knew it's history back to 2010 but it looks awfully close to HUO. I'll take some photos to share once I've got it set up.

Does this help?

http://www.pinrepair.com/bally/squawk.htm
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Squawk_.26_Talk_Sound_Board_Troubleshooting

Bally_AS-2518-61_S&T_Soundboard_input (resized).jpg

Yes. That should definitely help.

Thanks!

Asked this in the D&D club thread, but want to ask here as well.

Is anybody using newer non-HV displays in their 6803 games? If so, which brand did you go with?

I installed green led displays in my Black Water.

I edited my post. Sorry I forgot. Which brand did you go with?

btw, nice avatar

EARNHARDT!!!

They are X-pin.

thanks

FINALLY got a replacement 6803 lockdown bar, huge thanks to Pinthetic

20793128-BC08-44ED-B641-FD7B99F48376 (resized).jpeg

I believe I found the issue. There was a wire loose in the connector at J5 pin 10 on the controller board which connects to pin 4 on your S&T photo.

Anyway, it is working now. Thanks for your help!

Thought the 6803 lockdown bars all had the over sized rivets. That looks like an original bally

anybody got a strange science rubber ring list and count?

Look in the manual at page 1-13

Hello, I cannot find where there's a 3 amp fuse in Strange Science.

Will somebody guide me on where they are located. I couldn't find a fuse layout in the manual.

Thanks!

The only place is the Transformer module in the cabinet.
It is the main fuse.
Look on my website http://www.inkochnito.nl for a Tech Chart in the Bally or Tech Chart section.

Hello. I’m looking to get out of the club

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-eight-ball-champ-8#post-5288064

got this little gem fixed up this weekend. fresh rubbers, LEDs, flipper rebuild. plays great. key on this one is flipper rebuild. Can make all the ramp shots easily and added some carrot flippers on the bottom 2 flips. Reminds me of a system 11 game.

strange sciencew (resized).jpg

Question for the Heavy Metal people. I recently got one for free that is complete, except it's missing the center grille part. Is this a plastic part? It seems to be some sort of light diffuser or vent cover, but haven't had luck finding something similar.

I just got a dungeons and dragons. It had a bunch of problems when I tested it on location but we finally got it running after reseating a bunch of cables. This was odd because it always got to at least the 7th or 8th flash. The guy said it never had a problem booting before he moved it to his garage for sale. It booted consistently after moving and taking the tension off some of the cables.

Is it possibly just cable / solder joint issues or am I getting ready to get into a basket case? I wouldn't have thought it would get that far into the boot sequence if any of the power cables were tensioned.

Sounds like you should let me come buy it from you right away. Definitely best.

Picked up a real nice blackwater 100 last weekend. My first 6803. Love it so far...

Reflowed all 3 boards and everything is working perfectly. I was surprised as I couldn't see any obviously bad joints but there was only a tiny amount of solder on all the .100 connectors.

Has anybody done a good backbox lighting kit for these? I was thinking about doing some LED strips and seeing how the translite would look without that huge inside-out hotspot.

Trial #1:

Using an outlet adapter in the bulb socket with an 8' 12v soft white LED strip. Wish I got warmer but this was the warmest they had at home depot. All in a little over $20. These are just hanging from the loom, not permanently installed so it'll get a touch more even. The hotspot in the photo is not anywhere close to that bright in person but I couldn't get it to go away by area of focus. Note this method will keep gi effects in games with a backbox relay which I seem to remember reading about

20191217_185725.jpg

I don't like the placement of the backbox bulb in this game. I have considered using LED strips as well. If that were real glass instead of a translite, the light might diffuse across the entirety of the display more efficiently. I suppose it could be worse, too.

I put in a cooler bulb, but am also considering something smaller to get the bulb a bit further away from the translite.

That's nice that you got one with a topper. Those seem to be sought after, but are hard to come by. Mine has the topper as well.

Today I did my first hole-in-the-board repair....
What do you think?
Should I close the hole with hot glu or leave it open?

Bally_A080-91786-C000_repair (resized).jpg

Bet that really stunk up the room when it happened! Looks like your reconstructive surgery went well. I am no board repairman, but I would think a little squirt of hot glue to beef it up would be good.

Nice job. I would reinforce it.

I'd like to join 6803 squadron. Just picked up a blackbelt (#491 of 600).

Anyone got a spare mpu??!. Yeah I know.

Jaime

20200108_170445 (resized).jpg

Hey guy can anyone tell me the size of the backglass for a Ecsape from lost world ? I picked up a machine that was missing the translite and
glass . I wanted to order a tempered glass and wanted to get it right .
Thanks Scott

The board posted above is available for 130 euro plus shipping.
With hole and all, but working and tested.
I don't know where you live, but if it is not in Europe it might get expensive to ship it.
Within Europe it is 13 euro, but to the USA it is 35 euro.

666 mm wide by 628 mm high.
26.2 inch wide by 24.7 inch high.
Measured from a Escape from the Lost World.

Thanks for checking this for me .

Nice! I got one too, a little over a year ago. I've had way less time to work on it than I'd expected, so it's still in Project status. (Stripped PF, cleaned everything, and & replaced all bulbs... but that's as far as I've gotten so far...)

Hey guys, picked up a black belt last week.
Have a few questions.
First off, what is the bulb near the relay under the playfield? Seems kinda odd.

Ive got it shopped, working, le'd, is there anything that should be done to the boards for preventative maintainence?
The battery was off the board on an remote battery pack with no diode. I replaced it with a new remote holder with a diode in line. Board looks a little funky, but seems to operate just fine. Came from a friends house where they were not into pinball. Didn't operate for 5 years+ is my guess.

Last question, is there any place to get insert decals? I torn the machine all the way down to shop it and it would be a shame to have it come out this nice with worn insert decals.

Thanks for any input,
Joe

The relay won’t work without it. I don’t really understand it, but if the relay starts acting up, check the bulb. Must be an incandescent, not an LED.

So glad you mentioned this, about 2 hours ago I put an led in it. Didn't try the game since.

Glad you asked. You would have been chasing some weird coil behavior. There’s a thread somewhere on pinside that describes why the bulb is essential.

Hello all. I purchased a non-working Strange Science last week that had not been used (or cleaned) in some time. Would estimate 5 years of filth). It may be the dirtiest pin I’ve personally seen. The GI works (the bulbs not burned out... which is about half) but it will not start a game. I’ve already stripped the playfield and need to do a lot of cleaning, adjusting, and parts ordering.

This keypad that hangs next to the launcher inside the coin door seems to potentially hold the key to getting this game going. I downloaded the parts manual and the tech manual, but can’t seem to find any information on how to actually use the thing. The tech manual PDF is actually missing some pages this keypad is said to be discussed.
Does anybody have a good pdf or link they could provide me so I can try to educate myself on how to use this? I’ve only found little tidbits on pinside and was hoping this specific community could maybe help give me some help in the right direction.

The owner said the keypad was how they got it on freeplay but mice literally ate the corner of the manual he had hand written the necessary codes.

When the machine is turned on the neon topper turns on quick then shuts off, The digital display says “1-4 can play on the left displays and something else on the right displays (maybe insert coins)?? Can’t recall.

The coin door has no mechs but does have the wired switches, but those switches will not add a credit and I’m not even sure if the keypad is functional because apparently these things were manufactured somewhere between here and hell.

Would love to read up on this while I’m doing the basics of rebuilding the playfield.

Thank you all!

6D356B10-AF4A-41C8-88CD-2F07F7E1E1F0 (resized).jpeg

Try Clay's site:

http://www.pinrepair.com/6803/index.htm

New keypads available from Pinitech if you need one:

https://www.pinitech.com/products/bally6803_keypad.php

I’ll give this a look through. Thank you for the direction!

under the Basic Options; Free Play; Enter 0 for Coin and 65 for Free Play....

http://www.ipdb.org/files/2396/Bally_1986_Strange_Science_Manual.pdf

its a fun game. Rebuild the lower flippers first thing.