Are there any other Motordome owners who can confirm left gate wiring connection? I'm getting a "left ally" aka left gate switch closed error. There is NO physical switch on this one, I'm assuming it is some magic with electrons and the diode... my BEFORE picture shows the two yellow wires disconnected from the coil but tied together. The schematic seems to show the two yellow wires tied with the brown wire.

Also when I attempt to self test the solenoids, it only does the first three then it exits solenoid testing and prompts me to enter sound test. I thought maybe there was an issue with the next solenoid in line, the left sling, but when I go into a game and manually close one of the left sling switches, the left solenoid fires as it should.

Board is aftermarket Swemmer and keypad is aftermarket as well.

Anyone have some insight they can share?

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Brown is the +43VDC *before* the 1.5A solenoid fuse, out of the fuse comes the yellow. Anywhere it daisy chains, and passes from one coil to the next will be a pair of yellow wires. Not sure why yours are taped off there, and I can't see the top of the solenoid connections there, you might measure for +43VDC there to at least see if power is present.

The switch circuit is separate from the solenoid circuits. I don't have a Motordome, but the "left alley" switch error I assume might be caused by a rollover somewhere in the left ally lane, and most likely isn't opening up enough.

I will measure voltage this evening, I wonder if someone taped off the yellow trying to make it "look" like the right gate.
Here is another angle of that same image. And then how I currently have it wired. Brown and two yellows are tied together and those mate with the one yellow lead coming off the gate coil and the white / violet lead it connected to the violet lead on the coil.

In looking at the schematic, only the flipper coils should have brown *before* connections?
Looks like I have a full night of DMM work ahead of me.

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Yes, according to the schematic.
If you are running coil test it should roll through all of the so!enoids, working or not, before exiting the test. Exiting the tests before all are tested sounds strange.

Only had a chance for a brief review of things last night, I disconnected the right pop coil since the self test would exit after firing that coil and voila, the self test continued through all the remaining coils. HOWEVER I had wired the knocker coil backwards and when it got there the 5A fuse blew. I popped it out, swapped the coil leads but forgot to install a new diode, insert a circuit breaker for continued testing, fired up the machine and then the machine would NOT turn off! WTF? I spent the last of my free time pondering on how in the hell something so simple as wiring a coil backwards could affect the power switch. I stopped my work to ponder a test method to hopefully determine a solution and turned in for the night.
This morning I got out my DMM, pulled the power switch cover, did a couple continuity tests and determined something inside the cheap Chinese replacement switch I used had failed. In simply wiggling it, I heard a click inside the switch and then it tested normal again. Needless to say my next task will be replace it and then continue to try and track down the issue with why the self test program exits after firing the right pop, why do I have a Left Ally switch closed error.

I will come back with any findings soon. Appreciate the input, I was seriously discouraged after the power switch issue, some hope has been restored.

Had a display problem pop up even after repinning the connector but thanks to a donor from Atlantis, got it up and functional so I could see what I was testing.
Long story short, swapped the right pop bump coil with another, testing now proceeds past this one and finishes as it should.
I have no idea why testing terminated early on that coil, I had a new diode on it and it ohm'd out the same as the other 26-1200 coils.
Now still receiving the left ally gate open error.
Will plug away on it later.
No new thoughts on it?
Oops found it, I need to go back to geometry, switches are a circle, coils are a square!

Now just need to find out why the new speakers have no sound!

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I have a eight ball champ that has a weird problem. The machine will add players or start a new game without the replay button pushed. It will sometimes tilt without it being nudjed. I have disconnected the cabinet jack to the driver board and it still does it. All the electrolytic caps on all the boards have been changed. I’ve swapped the 2 PIA chips, still same thing.
Could the next things to be changed are the 6803 mpu chip, ram chip, or driver board eprom?
Thanks for any help.

Just stumbled across this group. I'm in... I've owned a Special Force for year and a half now and looking to do a playfield swap in the fall. I love the game but it didn't get much love from the pin head community unfortunately. The other 6803 I'd love to own someday is a D&D. Not much going for it but I'd own it just for the theme.

I have some nice Tech Charts for these 6803 games.
Everything in nice columns and lamp names alphabeticaly.
Here is the link to the Motordome chart:
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Bally_MotorDome_Tech_Chart.pdf
You can find it in the Bally section or the Tech Charts section.

Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl

I have a Beat The Clock that I just love for the different way you can play the clock instead of number of balls and a Strange Science that I still can't get to load the Atom Smasher no matter what I do. A "someday I'll get to changing the whole flipper system" project...

This bracket on the upper flipper of my City Slicker somehow broke, and I cannot seem to find a part number for it and I’m about to put in an order at PBR.
Any idea what it is?
Also this is the first time this game has been shopped in probably its whole life. Someone put this thick-ass grease on ONLY the ball release solenoid which was kinda wild.
Anyone have suggestions on recommended parts to order for a full shop of this game?

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These are Bally linear flippers. Not sure on the availability of the overhaul parts (PBR did have the parts), and some folks prefer to convert them to the standard early bally flipper design. There is a thread of discussion on the subject below which you might read about them:

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rec.games.pinball/toD3OB_Bjf0

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Discussed here too:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers/page/11#post-1855100

Parts to rebuild also avail from PBL and Marco both.
Get bushings while you are at it, sometimes they are not included.

Yes, I agree. The same goes for the round press targets in early Bally. I replaced all the caps on my Space Invaders targets for reliable hits.

.047mfd ?

Yes, exactly. You can use disc style, but I used mylar film, worked great. One lead is connected to the cathode side of the diode, and the other lead to the switch contact that is not connected to the diode at all.

Anyone here own a escape from lost world that could send me a couple pics of how the right flippers are wired? I have 3 flippers working great but nothing on the upper right. Ive replaced the entire thing but it looks like someone hacked the wires on both the upper and lower right flippers and i cant seem to make heads or tails of it. Thanks in advance

Does this image help?

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So is there anyone around that works on 6803's? I picked up an escape from the lost world over the weekend. It was advertised as working until it recently started blowing the 1A fuse under the playfield. I'm in the middle of testing coils and diodes, but noticed that machine won't boot at all. No error codes on the CPU, no flicker on the led at start up. Test points show 15 and 5 volts at the CPU test points. Displays are blank, except for a 1 on the first digit of the third display. Unfortunately, I think the previous owner may have done more damage trying to repair the blown fuse issue and decided to sell the machine when he couldn't fix it and my expertise in board repair ends here.

That sounds like a short to me. On other games when you blow playfield fuses a lot it tends to follow from a short

I have a recently restored 6803 game for sale on the market if anyone is interested:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-motordome-with-a-makeover

Do you know offhand if it kills the computer functions when the underside fuse goes out? I thought I had read somewhere that you'd get a message on the displays to check the fuse.

Yo! i owned a Motordome, but traded it away recently for a Hollywood Heat, now my bro i made the deal with have a problem with Motordome, appearently both right flippers have gone dead, but level change still works (left flippers are fine btw), he says the fuse is fine, and he checked the cables and cleaned the flipperbutton EOS, and the coils got 15V, just like the left side.

Anyone have an idea? the flippers worked just fine all the time i had it, i just fixed the displays and burned new roms, after that it was workling 100% for me, so i never bothered to check anything else further.

My fist gane was a dead #dnd. It had a blown cap in the soubd board and that kept taking a bunch of fuses also all the targets were missing. But it works now. An di recently bought a strange science. Gameplay is less deep that with the dnd but is still allot of fun.

Has anyone in here vectorized the generic cabinet art yet? If so, could you PM me a file if you care to share it. I would like to print my own decals to restore a Hardbody and would appreciate the time savings of creating the art myself. Thanks for any help!

I was going to do this, I scanned the art, recreated it, converted to proper file type went to two local shops, one wanted almost 1G, the other was over 600, I ended up just getting them from Pete at Retro Refurbs for around 2 hondos and was MORE than happy with them, even on the same Oracal outdoor rated decal I was quoted locally.

These were for Motordome (before trimming).

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Already posted this in the tech forums but thought i would cross post this here to see if it would get any more visibility

Hi Guys -- I just got my first game from a family friend and it is EFLW. Upon getting it to my house I noticed the upper right flipper is missing! rendering 1/3 of the game useless. The other 3 all work fine. I am a complete newbie at this, but I opened up the machine and saw that in addition to the flipper being removed, the wires were cut from the coil! Why would someone do that!?! It also look like it is missing the Return Spring and the Side Lever Assembly.

I guess my first question is, is this repairable? It looks like the wires have very little additional slack on them. If it is repairable a couple questions

1) Do I need to buy a complete Flipper Rebuild Kit?
2) Do i need to buy a new coil as well? Or should I just do it to be safe?
3) There is minimal slack available on these cut wires if I am going to re-attached. Can I buy additional wire to extend them and if so is it all just standard copper wire?
3) Finally -- Which wires do I solder to each Diode if I am going to put this back? I am very nervous i am going to short the machine and be in way over my head if I do this wrong. I tried to color code arrows to make it easier for you all to advise which wires go where. I think it should go

A) YELLOW CIRCLE WIRES to WHITE CIRCLE diode

B) Reconnect the wires in the BLUE RECTANGLE

C) ORANGE CIRCLE to PURPLE CIRCLE?

See the attached picture

I really appreciate all of your help!

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Those decals look great! I may just have to go this direction. Thanks for the info!

what game is this?

I was happy, and those images were before I cleared them with 2PAC. Here is one AFTER.

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EFLW = Escape From the Lost World......

Nice work man! That thing looks amazing! I'm not at auto clear coating level yet. I'm a hack compared to you!

Sorry I should have put the full name instead of acronym. The game I am asking for help with is escape from the lost world.

Yes Escape From the Lost World is one of those games that people don’t usually acronym, it seems most people just use Lost World even though it could refer to Bally’s Lost World. Not sure.

I’m willing to bet that coil is shorted so someone cut it off instead of replacing it. You’ll probably need to buy some wire to extend the cut wires. Get shrink tube to color code them again. Compare wiring to your other coils. Should be similar with one color difference (solenoids are usually limited to 2 in a circuit I believe? So only one main color will change) it’s not a horrible first repair to make if everything else works! A flipper rebuild should have everything you need including new coils

Take DOZENS of pictures of the backbox and the connectors! I actually didn’t have any reference for my City Slicker, I used a grainy picture off IPDB to connect it together (it was in pieces when I got it) I believe the head should be on hinges, so you can just hinge it down. Put cardboard across the playfield glass to protect the side rails from being dented by the head swinging down on them.
There are more threads and guides out there for moving the game! I will search, you can also go to the little search glass at the top of the webpage and find other threads about transporting games.

Yes, there are bolts inside the back box on either side of the wire way opening.
6803 games used two bolts.

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That picture if from a Motordome, a 6803 game. Yes, slide the backglass UP after you turn the key.
Your glass may have a broken lift trim piece which is common on this era of game since they were plastic. If that is the case see if you can find a small suction cup to use on the glass to get it up and out safely.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8229-1

Your charts are excellent. Nice job and thanks for the work that went into that. Nice website, too.

I have one 6803 game, Dungeons & Dragons. Also has the topper.

Don't believe the card at the bottom, I have it set up as pay to play.

It's a fun game, it's needed some work (mostly on the boards), and a coil and diode here and there, but it plays great. Rebuilt all of the flippers, including new bats, about two months ago.
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I really want a better manual. It is a copy, and it is fine, until I get to the schematics section, the section I need the most

Just figures

Anyone have an extra display laying around that they want to sell? My EFTLW has a funky digit on one of the displays.

Preliminary betekend voorlopig.

It could be that the manual is from a sample game.
Preliminary manuals are subject to change as opposed to the production game.

The entire tech section (schematics, designation lists, etc.)

Whoever scanned that section of the manual must have been on the last can of a twelve pack

Very unreadable. Useless, basically. I would love to get an original manual, where the schematics actually fold out, but that's not happening

The paper schematics of the 6803 games aren't very good to begin with.
A low res scan would only make it worse.
That's whats been done every time.
All of the schematics I have found for the 6803 games are hardly readable.
I did manage to decipher most of them to create the tech charts on my website http://www.inkochnito.nl
Combining schematics and comparing them.

Peter